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TWO CENTURIES 

OF TRAVEL IN 

ESSEX COUNTY 
MASSACHUSETTS 

A COLLECTION OF NARRATIVES 

AND OBSERVATIONS MADE 

BY TRAVELERS 

1605-1799 



Collected and Annotated 
By George Francis Dow 



THE TOPSFIELD HISTORICAL SOCIETY 

TOPSFIELD, MASS. 

1921 



ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY COPIES PRINTED 



THE PERKINS PRESS 
^Of»0fi£f6 



CONTENTS 

List of Illustrations v 

Introduction vii 

Samuel de Champlain in 1605 1 

Capt. John Smith in 1614 6 

Christopher Levett in 1624 7 

Rev. Francis Higginson in 1629 8 

Gov. Thomas Dudley in 1631 13 

William Wood in 1633 14 

Thomas Lechford in 1641 18 

Edward Johnson in 1652 20 

Samuel Maverick in 1660 26 

John Josselyn in 1671 28 

John Dunton in 1686 31 

Edward Ward in 1699 45 

Thomas Story in 1699 and 1704 46 

John Higginson in 1700 54 

Rev. George Keith in 1702 57 

John Oldmixon in 1708 60 

Rev. John Barnard in 1714 62 

Dr. Alexander Hamilton in 1744 . . . . . .64 

Rev. George Whitefield in 1740 71 

Capt. Francis Goelet in 1750 73 

Hugh Finlay in 1773 77 

Marquis de Chastellux in 1782 80 

John Adams in 1766-1774 87 

Simeon Baldwin in 1784 96 

LuiGi Castiglioni in 1785 99 

Rev. William Bentley in 1787-1799 103 

Jean Pierre Brissot de Warville in 1788 .... 164 

George Washington in 1789 167 

John Drayton in 1794 171 

Duke de la Rochefoucault-Liancourt in 1796 . . . 172 
Robert Gilmor in 1797 182 

iii 



LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS 

Map of the South Part of New-England in 1634 Frontispiece 
From Wood's "New-Englands Prospect," London, 1634. 

North East View of the Town of Newburyport . . 81 
From an engraving made in 1775 by Benjamin Johnston. 

The Brick School House in Salem 89 

From a watercolor made about 1765 by Dr. Joseph Orne, 
now owned by the Essex Institute, Salem. 

The Essex Merrimack Bridge at Newburyport . . . 133 
From a drawing by J. Downer, engraved for the "Mass- 
achusetts Magazine," May, 1793. 

View of the Court House in Salem 169 

From an engraving by S. Hill, in the "Massachusetts 
Magazine," March, 1790. 

North East Prospect of the Town of Newburyport . 177 
From an engraving made in 1796 by Benjamin Tucker. 

View of Mr. Derby's House in Salem . . . .182 

From a drawing made in 1797 by Robert Gilmor. 

View of the Bridge at Haverhill, over the Merrimack 

River 183 

From a drawing made in 1797 by Robert Gilmor. 

Note. — Six of the above illustrations appear here through the 
courtesy of the Essex Institute, Salem, Mass. ; the last two by the 
courtesy of the Boston Public Library. 



INTRODUCTION 

THE County of Essex is located in the northeastern corner of 
Massachusetts. It has at the north, the boundary Hne of New 
Hampshire, which skirts the Merrimack river at a distance of 
three miles, and at the east, the Atlantic ocean, with numerous rivers, 
bays and inlets indenting the coastline. The earliest settlements in 
the Massachusetts Bay Colony were made here and a growth of num- 
erous towns with a considerable development of commercial enter- 
prise, where suitable harbors existed, soon brought about a larger pop- 
ulation than in any other part of the State save in Boston and its more 
immediate vicinity. Here are the towns of Salem, Ipswich, Newbury, 
Haverhill, Gloucester, Marblehead and Lynn. With the increase of 
population came wealth followed by a higher standard of living and 
a culture and development of natural resources that could not fail to 
attract and interest the traveling stranger. In the course of time a 
considerable number of observers visited the County and some of 
them preserved a record of what they had seen which afterwards was 
published. In the following pages these descriptions have been col- 
lected and reprinted in chronological order. Only the more extended 
and important descriptions have been included, for in historical 
writings, in memoirs and in diaries, a considerable mass of matter 
may be found that has a certain amount of descriptive interest. 
Much of it, however, is so meagre and so disconnected that it has 
been found to be impracticable to gather up these loose threads and 
use them in the present work. Governor Winthrop's "History of New 
England," for example, has much of interest that wanders along the 
border line between history and description. Of autobiographical 
accounts, there are volumes too numerous to mention which frequent- 
ly preserve a scrap or two of descriptive matter. The account of 
his life written by Josiah Cotton, who went to Marblehead in 1698 
to teach school, may be taken as a fair example : 

vii 



Viii INTRODUCTION 

I have heretofore thought of writing a particular character and 
description of Marblehead, or rather of my observations there, but 
upon the attempt, finding I could not do it without too much satyr 
and reflection (perhaps to some to whom I was obliged), I laid it 
aside and shall only say that the whole township is not much bigger 
than a large farm, and very rocky, and so they are forc't to get their 
living out of the sea, not having room to confound the fisherman 
with the husbandman, and so spoil both as they do in some places. It 
has a very good Harbour which they improve to the best advantage 
for Fishing both Summer and Winter . . . And finally it is one 
of the best country places to keep school in, provided a man be firm- 
ly fix't in principles of Virtue and religion, which I heartily wish 
were more abundant among them in the life and power of it. 

Many diaries have been kept by those who lived in the County 
and by others who had occasion to pass through it at various times. 
But aside from that monument to the industry of Rev. William 
Bentley, the Salem, clergyman, published in four thick volumes, with 
but few exceptions they preserve only "line-a-day" entries that are 
little better than memory-joggers. Judge Samuel Sewall of Boston, 
frequently came to Salem or visited his relatives in Newbury, but 
he was interested in persons mainly, and so we find little in his 
Diary with which to picture the towns through which he passed. 
Noah Webster, the philologist rode through the County in 1784. He 
then was twenty-six years old and already had published the fxrst 
part of his "Grammatical Institute of the English Language," and 
yet his diary, which he kept for many years, contains only the follow- 
ing scant information : 

June 10, 1784. Rode in the Stage Coach to Newbury Port. 

11. Took a view of the Town. 

12. Rode to Portsmouth. 

The almanacs of the day preserve information in relation to the 
roads and taverns with sometimes a scrap of description. In 1732 
there was published in Boston, "The Vade Mecum for America, or a 
Companion for Traders and Travellers." The title locks promising 
but the descriptive matter is largely confined to a list of "The Principal 
Roads from the mouth of the Kennebec River in the North East of 
New England to the James River in Virginia." There are several 



INTRODUCTION IX 

gazetteers and works like Herman Moll's "Modern History," Dublin, 
1739, containing bits of information relating to Essex County, but 
when sifted to the bottom much, if not all of it, is the result of industry 
at the library table and has been taken from the published writings 
of those who have visited the County at an earlier date. 

In 1670, were published in London, two thick folio volumes with the 
following title : "A Mirrour or Looking-Glass both for Saints, and 
Sinners . . . where unto is added a Geographical Description of 
all the Countries in the known World . . . with a True, and 
Faithful Account of the four Chiefest Plantations of the English in 
America . . . Collected by Samuel Clarke, sometime Pastor in 
Saint Bennet-Fink, London." The description of the towns in Essex 
County is scanty, but it would be of interest if it did not soon appear 
that the late Pastor of St. Bennets', had purloined his information 
from Higginson and Wood. The next year was printed : "America ; 
being the latest and most accurate description of the New World 
, . . Collected from most Authentick Authors, augmented with 
later Observations, and adorned with Maps and Sculptures, by John 
Ogilby, Esq.," London, 1671. This text varies somewhat from the 
previous title for the reason that the "Wonder- Working Providence," 
by Johnson, supplied additional information. An active demand for 
such compilations must have existed about that time for five years 
later, John Speed published a volume with the following title : "Eng- 
land, Wales, Scotland and Ireland Described ... In this New 
Edition are added. The Descriptions of His Majesties Dominions 
abroad, viz.. New England, New York, Carolina, Florida, Virginia, 
etc.," London, 1676. This is a compilation from the same sources 
but greatly condensed. 

Midway between the fragmentary allusions to Essex County towns 
and the extended descriptions here printed in the text come a number 
of short items which it has seemed best to group in this "Introduc- 
tion." Some of them bring to light matter of considerable interest. 

In the "Collections of the New York Historical Society," 2d series 
Vol. Ill, part 1, is printed the "Journal of an Embassy from Canada 
to the United Colonies of New England in 1650 by Father Gabriel 
Druillettes of the Society of Jesus," in which appears the follow- 
ing: — 



X INTRODUCTION 

The 9th of said month [January, 1649-1650] bad weather stopped 
us at Morblentz [Marblehead] where there is a quantity of people. 
The minister, by name WilHam "Walter, received me with great affec- 
tion, in company with him I went to Salem to speak to the Sieur 
Indicott [Endecott], who speaks and understands French well and is 
a good friend of the nation and very earnest to have his children in- 
herit this affection. Seeing that I had no money, he defrayed nry 
expenses and invited me to the table of the magistrates, who for a 
week were giving audience to everybody. 

In the New England entries in the Plantation Office, now preserved 
in the Public Record Office, London, is a paper containing observa- 
tions on New England made about the year 1673. Among other 
"observations" are the following : 

Not 10 houses in Boston which have 10 rooms each. 

The worst cottages in New England are lofted. 

There are no musicians by trade. 

A dancing school was set up : but put down. 

No cloth made there, worth 4/ per yard. 

No linen above 2/6. 

They take an oath of fidelity to the governor, but none to the king. 

An unknown French protestant refugee in Boston, in 1687, in a 
report now preserved in the Library of Geneva and published in the 
"Bulletin Historique et Litteraire of the Societe de I'Histore du Pro- 
testantisme Francais, Feb. 1867" (reprinted Brooklyn, N. Y. 1868)^ 
has the following allusion to Salem, viz : — 

There are here [Boston] divers French Families who have purchased 
English Residences all built, and which they have got exceedingly 
cheap. M. de Bourepos, Brother of our Minister, has bought one 
fifteen miles from here, and at one League from a very pretty town, 
and where there is a great Trade, which they call Sallem, for sixty- 
eight Pistoles,* of ten Livres of France each. The House is very 
pretty, and it never was built for fifty Pistoles. There are seven- 
teen acres of Land all cleared, and a little orchard. 

The Maine Historical Society, in its sixth volume of Collections, 
prints a memoir copied from the French Archives, concerning Acadia 
and the New England Colonies in 1692. It was written by M. de la 
Mothe Cadillac. There is one small allusion to Salem : 

Salem is another little town, at the distance of five leagues from 
*The pistole was then worth about ten francs. 



INTRODUCTION XI 

Boston. It is not fortified : it is the principal residence of the fisher- 
men. Large vessels cannot get within half a league of it. 

One Capt. Nathaniel Uring pubUshed in London, in 1726, a volume 
describing his voyages and travels from which the following is ab- 
stracted : 

In April 1709, I set out from London for Plymouth, where a ship 
was bought for me of 150 tons and 16 guns, which I was fitting 
in order to make a v oyage to the Streights : but the government at 
that time wanting a vessel to send Express to New England, hired 
her for that purpose, having provided the ship with all the necessaries 
for such a voyage. I received my Lord Sunderland's orders and dis- 
patches (who was then one of the principal Secretaries of State) and 
set sail for Boston in Neiv England, in May following ; and in about a 
month arrived at that Port, and delivered my dispatches or Letters 
as I was directed. . . . There are several other towns of consider- 
able trade, viz. Marble head, Salem, Ipswich, and Newbery, which are all 
good harbours, some of which rivers run up more than one hundred 
miles into the country, and there are several other lesser towns, to 
describe all which with their polity, manners, and nature of their 
trade, would take up a volume ; . . . All the country of New 
England takes off great quantities of the British manufactories, and 
in return builds us ships, and sends us whale oil and bone, great 
quantities of turpentine, pitch and tar ; some furs and deer skins ; 
besides which many ships from England lade with dried fish for the 
Streights and Portugal . . . They have very good roads all 
through the country, where I have been more agreeably entertained 
in travelling, than in either France or Italy. The inhabitants of the 
towns, as well as in the country, are such enemies to trees that they 
have hardly left one standing in half a mile of their houses, but are 
all in general naked. They are mostly a sly, crafty, tricking, design- 
ing sort of people ; and when ever you make an agreement with 
them, if you don't make it in writing, and have under their hands 
for the performance, if they meet with any man that will give them 
half a crown in a hundred pounds more than you have agreed for, 
they'll not stand to their bargain. The country people are so ad- 
dicted to cheating, that governour Dudley used to say, if salt water 
were to be sold by measure they would even cheat ; however, there 
are some honest gentlemen to be found in the place, that are men 
of honour and strict justice. 

Near Boston are the following manufactories established, accord- 
ing to the accounts given me by a considerable merchant there : 
. . . at Newbury Port, Joseph Brown, a clothier, makes a variety 



XU INTRODUCTION 

of woolen goods of the coarse kinds ; at Ipswich, the woolen manu- 
factory, by Messrs. Warner and a Doctor Manning. There is also 
in this town, which is an inland situation, a large bone-lace manu- 
factory, employing near an hundred cushions. But all these I judge 
rather the seeds of manufactories, than any large or permanent 
establishments. 

So wrote Henry Wansey in his "Journal of an Excursion to the 
United States of North America in the summer of 1794," Salisbury, 
1796. 

In 1801, was published in Cork, Ireland ; "An Historical Review 
and Directory of North America, By a Gentleman immediately re- 
turned from a tour of that Continent :" containing the following 
comment on privateering that properly might have been brought to 
the attention of Parliament a few years later. 

Salem is 18 miles distant from Boston. It is a large town extend- 
ing near a mile in length, and contains about 1500 houses. It has 
a very noble church and meeting-houses. It stands on a plain be- 
tween two rivers, and has two harbours. It is a town famous for 
ship-building, and carries on a very extensive trade. Here the plant- 
ers of Massachusetts made their first settlement. It is not unlike 
Harwich. 

Newbury is pleasantly situated at the mouth of the river Merri- 
mack. It is 34 miles from Boston. It is a small town but well built, 
has several very handsome houses, and is encreasing daily. The 
ware-houses of the merchants which are near their own houses, 
serve by way of ornament, and in point of architecture, resemble 
not a little our large green houses. 

N. B. Between Newbury and Salem lies Ipswich, a seaport town 
and very populous. The privateers which so greatly molested the 
British trade, were chiefly from those ports ; and such is their posi- 
tion, that they can run out at any season of the year, and commit 
depredations on any of the maritime powers to which America is 
hostile, with little fear of retaliation. Newfoundland, Nova Scotia, 
the Gulphs of St Lawrence and Florida, and the whole trade of the 
West Indian Archipelago, are in a manner at their doors. 

The activities of the Quakers in New England in the early days 
are well known and Bishop's "New England Judged by the Spirit of 
the Lord," London, 1661, presents their indictment against the Puri- 
tan leaders. Later, there were many wandering or itinerant preach- 
ers who traveled through New England and in due course visited the 



INTRODUCTION xiii 

towns in Essex County. In after years the story of their travels 
frequently was printed. There are a large number of these narra- 
tives sometimes only setting forth the bare fact that the author 
preached at Lynn or Salem, but always devoting liberal space to re- 
ligious experiences and doctrinal analysis. An early example is 
"The Truth Exalted in the Writings of that Eminent and Faithful 
Servant of Christ, John Burnyeat , . . Collected as a Memorial 
to His Faithful Labours," London, 1691. He landed in Maryland in 
1665 and after spending some time in New York, reached Salem in 
1666. 

I took my Journey . . . from Boston to Salem, and so on to 
Piscatoway, and when I was clear there, I returned back through the 
Meetings, and came to Hampton, Salem, Boston, etc. 

This took place in August, 1666. He also visited Salem again in 
June, 1671. Again in June, 1672, he visited Salem in company with 
John Cartwright and George Patteson. 

There we had a Meeting, and a blessed Season : but there we met 
with some, that were gone into that foolish notion oi John Parrots, 
Keeping on their Hats, when Friends prayed, &c. So after meeting 
was over, when many People was in a Barn, we had a meeting with 
several of the Chief of Friends . , . and so took our Journey. 

In 1671, William Edmundson, an EngHsh Friend," had m.ovingsof 
the Spirit" to come to America and sailed in company with George 
Fox. He visited the West Indies, Virginia, Maryland and New York 
and reached New England in 1675. 

I took Passage for Rhode Island in a Yatch, that Joseph Bryar, a 
Friend, was master of . . . Peoples Minds were down, because 
of the Indian wars that prevailed mightily upon them. 

His travels were published in Dublin in 1715. He made three voy- 
ages to America previous to the year 1700. Thomas Chalkley, the 
famous Quaker preacher visited Essex County in 1698 and again in 
1704. His "Journal and Christian Experiences" has been published 
several times. 

From Providence I went to Boston and Salem, where I had meet- 
ings, and from thence to Hampton. ... In those parts God 
Almighty hath shortened the power of persecutors, and hath brought 



Xiv INTRODUCTION 

his righteous judgments upon them for their unrighteousness 
. . . I being a stranger and traveller, could not but observe the 
barbarous and unchristian-like welcome I had in Boston, the metrop- 
olis of New-England, Oh! what pity (said one) it was, that all of 
your society were not hanged with the other four!* ... At 
Salisbury we had a large open meeting, as it was supposed, of about 
three hundred people, which was at this time accounted a great con- 
course of people thereabouts ; also at Jamaica and Haverhill we had 
meetings, and from thence went to Salem and Lynn again. 

[In the summer of 1737] I went with Benjamin Bagnal, to Boston, 
and from thence to Lynn and Salem, had several satisfactory meet- 
ings, which tended to the uniting our hearts together in the love of 
Christ, and the fellowship of his gospel. From Salem I went with 
Zaccheus Collins and his wife to their house, and lodged there three 
nights, and was lovingly entertained, as I was also at many other 
friends houses. From Lynn, Zaccheus Collins accompanied me to 
Boston, where we had a meeting on a fourth day of the week. 

"An account of the Life and Travels of Benjamin Holmes in the 
Work of the Ministry, through several Parts of Europe and America, 
written by Himself," was published in London in 1754. It has brief 
mention of Essex County towns. 

[In March 1715, I went] to Newberry : and at this Place some that 
were of account amongst the Presbyterians were convinc'd, and came 
to join with Friends, at which several of the Presbyterians were much 
disturbed ; I had a publick Dispute there with the Priest of the Town, 
whose name was Christopher Toppin, in their Meeting-house, and it 
being given out before hand for several Days, there came some Hun- 
dreds of People and several Priests to the Place ; we agreed to dis- 
pute concerning Water-Baptism, the Supper with Bread and Wine, the 
Sufficiency of the Light within, and that it was not lawful to preach for 
Hire, and some other Heads besides ; I suppose the Dispute might 
hold five Hours, . . . After I had several meetings in those 
Parts I returned to Salem and Boston. 

John Frothergill, another Quaker preacher, visited Salem in 1706 
and went on to Dover, N. H. He came again in 1722. The "Account 
of his Life and Travels in the work of the Ministry," was published 
in Philadelphia in 1754. 

In October, 1754, Catherine Phillips, an English Friend, visited 

♦Referring to Marmaduke Stevenson, William Robinson, Mary Dyer, aud Wil- 
liam Ledra who were put to death in 1659 and 1660. 



INTRODUCTION XV 

Lynn, Salem, Newbury and Almsbury, and held meetings in each of 
these towns. Her memoirs were published in Philadelphia in 1798. 
Daniel Sands, another Friend, visited Salem several times but left no 
account of what happened beyond the fact that in October, 1777, he 
lodged there with Jeremiah Hacker. The "Journal of the Life, 
Travels, and Gospel Labours of a Faithful Minister of Jesus Christ, 
Daniel Stanton," was published in Philadelphia in 1772, from which 
the following has been taken : 

From Boston I went to Lyn, Salem, and Newberry, and had com- 
fortable meetings, as also at another place between Newberry and 
Dover, and after I had seen Friends at Dover and Cachechy, and a 
meeting near Dover, I returned to Salem and Lyn, and staid some- 
time at my kind Friend Zaccheus Collins's, having met with some 
disappointment in travelling, which detained me some weeks, but I 
constantly attended meetings at Lyn, and found great openness and 
unity with Friends there, and believe my stay tended to some service, 
for the promoting of near love among the little flock of Christ in 
that place, having many blessed opportunities among them. I also 
went to the Yearly-Meeting at Boston, and back to the Yearly-Meet- 
ing at Lyn ; which was large and greatly favoured with the ministry 
and service of that worthy handmaid of the Lord Lydia Norton. 

After this volume was nearly all in type, through the courtesy of 
Mr. Henry Russell Drowne of New York City, a copy of a portion of 
the diary of his great-grandfather. Dr. Solomon Drowne, was received. 
This eminent physician was graduated at Rhode Island College (now 
Brown University) in 1773, studied medicine, became distinguished 
in his profession, and 1811 was appointed Professor of Botany and 
Materia Medica in Brown University. 

He was a surgeon in the Revolution and in 1788 was with General St. 
Clair in the Ohio. The journey through Essex County here described 
was taken in company with Rev. James Manning, the founder and 
first President of Rhode Island College, who was a Baptist minister 
of great ability and influence. 

Sept. 21, 1773. Towards 9 o'clock set out for Wenham, stop a 
short time at Mr Freemans and Mr Stilmans Doors. Cross Charles- 
town Ferry at 9. Go to Nat Brownes' in Charlestown. ... I 
step to Mr Hurd's. . . . Dine at Mr Porter's Tavern; after 
which proceed to Salem, where we stop at Mr Goodhues' Tavern to 



XVi INTRODUCTION 

bait our horses &c. Cross beverly Ferry & reach Esqr Brown's, 
Wenham, a little before 7, where we put up for this night. 

22. Before 9 we mount for Ipswich. Esqr Brown accompanies 
us to the Hamlet. We go to Mr Appleton's where we dine. After- 
noon : Mr Manning Joseph Appleton & I rode into the Town : stop 
at Mr Dany's, one of the ministers. Towards Sunset go to Mr Dutchs. 
Mr Manning goes to Mr Story's where he lodges. Dutch, Appleton 
& I go and see Kinsman, whom we take along with [us] to Mr Ap- 
pletons, where Mr Stilman preaches a Lecture this Evening from 
John, 1, 29. I lodge here. 

23. After Dinner muster up to Town expecting to hear Mr 
Manning preach their lecture ; but are disappointed. One Parsons 
preaches it. The People are very desirous that the Meeting House 
Doors shou'd be opened for Mr Manning to preach a Lecture after this ; 
but old Daddy Rogers, their Minister, is their absolute Ruler: How- 
ever, they prevail upon Mr Manning to preach a lecture in the Court 
House in the Evening. . . . After the lecture Dutch & I ride 
out to Kinsmans and stay at his house. 

24. This morning rise early ; go after our horses. While we are 
in the Pasture hear the Court House Bell ring ; imagine Mr Manning 
is to preach another Lecture ; hasten into town and find it really so. 
At the ernest Solicitation of the People he consented, last Evening, 
to give them another Lecture. His Text is in 2 Cor., 4, 17. Break- 
fast at Mr Dutchs. Set out for Rowley or Bradford ; Appleton, Dutch, 
Mr Story & son and some others accompany us. Mr Manning 
preaches a Sermon at the Meeting House called Free Grace from Eph. 
3, 8. After meeting go to Haverhill ; cross Merimac River in a ferry 
Boat ; get to Haverhill some time in the Evening ; Put up at Mr John 
White's, Merchant, an old Acquaintance of Mr. Manning's. Haver- 
hill is a pleasant little town situated on Merrimack River. 

25. Aforenoon we go to Mr. Smiths. He Himself not at home, 
then to Mr Duncan's ; thence back to Mr Whites where dine. At 
about 4 o'clock go again to Mr Duncans and drink tea ; thence to 
Mr Greenleafs, Tavern Keeper; thence to our Lodgings. 

26. Sunday. This Forenoon hear Mr Manning from Col. 3, 4. 

27. This morning pretty early we set out for Methuen, Mr Green- 
leaf and some others accompanying us. Stop a minute or two at 
the Door of a House where Mr Varnum's mother is. Mr Manning 
preached this Forenoon at Capt. White's (where Mr Smith meets us) 
from Prov. 3, 17. After Dinner set out for Chemsford where a meet- 
ing is appointed for Mr Manning at 4 Oclock. 



SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN IN 1605. 



SAMUEL de Champlain, a native of France : soldier and advent- 
urer and afterwards governor and the ruling spirit in New 
France, was the first to supply a printed description of explora- 
tions along the coast of the Massachusetts Bay. He arrived at the 
mouth of the St. Lawrence River in the spring of 1603 and after ex- 
ploring the Gulf returned to France in the early fall. The next year 
he came again reaching Nova Scotia early in May, 1604. That year 
he explored part of the Maine coast and after wintering near what 
is now Eastport, Maine, in June, 1605, he set sail for a survey of the 
New England coast touching at the mouth of the Kennebec river and 
at Saco and then closely following the coast line until he reached 
Cape Anne on the morning of the 16th of July, 1605. In September 
1606 he again visited the Massachusetts coast and spent several days 
in Gloucester harbor. The following account of his observations is 
reprinted from The Voyages of Samuel de Champlain, translated from 
the French, and published by the Prince Society, Boston, in 1880. 
The original work was printed in Paris in 1613. 

On the 15th of the month [July, 1605] we made twelve leagues. 
Coasting along, we perceived a smoke on the shore, which we ap- 
proached as near as possible, but saw no savages, which led us to be- 
lieve that they had fled. The sun set, and we could find no harbor 
for that night, since the coast was fiat and sandy. Keeping off, and 
heading south, in order to find an anchorage, after proceeding about 
two leagues, we observed a cape* on the main land south a quarter 
southeast of us, some six leagues distant. Two leagues to the east 
we saw three or four rather high islands,! and on the west a large 

*Cape Anne, which is the early spelling of this name. 
tThe Isles of Shoals. 

(1) 



2 SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN IN 1605. 

bay. The coast of this bay, reaching as far as the cape, extends in- 
land from where we were perhaps four leagues. It has a breadth of 
two leagues from north to south, and three at its entrance. Not ob- 
serving any place favorable for putting in, we resolved to go to the 
cape above mentioned with short sail, which occupied a portion of the 
night. Approaching to where there were sixteen fathoms of water, 
we anchored until daybreak. 

On the next day we went to the above-mentioned cape, where there 
are three islands near the main land, full of wood of different kinds, 
as at Chouacoet and all along the coast ; and still another flat one, 
where there are breakers, and which extends a little farther out to 
sea than the others, on which there is no wood at all. We named this 
place Island Cape, near which we saw a canoe containing five or six 
savages, who came out near our barque, and then went back and 
danced on the beach. Sieur de Monts sent me on shore to observe 
them, and to give each one of them a knife and some biscuit, which 
caused them to dance again better than before. This over, I made 
them understand, as well as I could, that I desired them to show me 
the course of the shore. After I had drawn with a crayon the bay, 
and the Island Cape, where we were, with the same crayon they drew 
the outline of another bay, which they represented as very large ; 
here they placed six pebbles at equal distances apart, giving me to 
understand by this that these signs represented as many chiefs and 
tribes. Then they drew within the first mentioned bay a river* 
which we had passed, which has shoals and is very long. We found 
in this place a great many vines, the green grapes on which were a 
little larger than peas, also many nut-trees, the nuts on which were 
no larger than musket-balls. The savages told us that those inhab- 
iting this country cultivated the land and sowed seeds like the others, 
whom we had before seen. The latitude of this place is 43° and some 
minutes. Sailing half a league farther, we observed several savages 
on a rocky point, who ran along the shore, dancing as they went, to 
their companions to inform them of our coming. After pointing out 
to us the direction of their abode, they made a signal with smoke to 
show us the place of their settlement. We anchored near a little 

*The Merrimack River. 



SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN IN 1605. 3 

island,* and sent our canoe with knives and cakes for the savages. 
From the large number of those we saw, we concluded that these 
places were better inhabited than the others we had seen. 

After a stay of some two hours for the sake of observing these 
people, whose canoes are made of birch bark, like those of the Can- 
adians, Souriquois, and Etechemins, we weighed anchor and set sail 
with a promise of fine weather. Continuing our course to the west- 
south-west, we saw numerous islands on one side and the other. Hav- 
ing sailed seven or eight leagues, we anchored near an island,t whence 
we observed many smokes along the shore, and many savages run- 
ning up to see us. Sieur de Monts sent two or three men in a canoe 
to them, to whom he gave some knives and paternosters to present 
to them ; with which they were greatly pleased, and danced several 
times in acknowledgment. We could not ascertain the name of their 
chief, as we did not know their language. All along the shore there 
is a great deal of land cleared up and planted with Indian corn. The 
country is very pleasant and agreeable, and there is no lack of fine 
trees. The canoes of those who live there are made of a single piece, 
and are very liable to turn over if one is not skilful in managing them. 
We had not before seen any of this kind. They are made in the 
following manner. After cutting down, at a cost of much labor and 
time, the largest and tallest tree they can find, by means of stone 
hatchets (for they have no others except some few which they re- 
ceived from the savages on the coasts of La Cadie, who obtained them 
in exchange for furs), they remove the bark, and round off the tree 
except on one side, where they apply fire gradually along its entire 
length ; and sometimes they put red-hot pebble-stones on top. When 
the fire is too fierce, they extinguish it with a little water, not entire- 
ly, but so that the edge of the boat may not be burnt. It being hol- 
lowed out as much as they wish, they scrape it all over with stones, 
which they use instead of knives. These stones resemble our mus- 
ket flints. 

[September, 1606.] Continuing our course, we proceeded to the 
♦Thatcher's Island. tin Boston harbour. 



4 SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN IN 1605. 

Island Cape,* where we encountered rather bad weather and fogs, 
and saw little prospect of being able to spend the night under shelter, 
since the locality was not favorable for this. While we were thus in 
perplexity, it occurred to me that, while coasting along with Sieur 
de Monts, I had noted on my map, at a distance of a league from 
here, a place which seemed suitable for vessels, but which we did not 
enter, because, when we passed it, the wind was favorable for con- 
tinuing on our course. This place we had already passed, which led 
me to suggest to Sieur de Poutrincourt that we should stand in for 
a point in sight, where the place in question was, which seemed to 
me favorable for passing the night. We proceeded to anchor at the 
mouth, and went in the next day.f 

Sieur de Pontrincourt landed with eight or ten of our company. 
We saw some very fine grapes just ripe, Brazilian peas, pumpkins, 
squashes, and very good roots, which the savages cultivate, having 
a taste similar to that of chards. They made us presents of some of 
these, in exchange for little trifles which we gave them. They had 
already finished their harvest. We saw two hundred savages in this 
very pleasant place ; and there are here a large number of very fine 
walnut trees, cypresses, sassafras, oaks, ashes, and beeches. The chief 
of this place is named Quiouhamenec, who came to see us with a 
neighbor of his, named Cohouepech, whom we entertained sumptuous- 
ly. Onemechin, chief of Chouacoet, came also to see us, to whom we 
gave a coat, which he, however, did not keep a long time, but made 
a present of it to another, since he was uneasy in it, and could not 
adapt himself to it. We saw also a savage here, who had so wound- 
ed himself in the foot, and lost so much blood, that he fell down in a 
swoon. Many others surrounded him, and sang some time before 
touching him. Afterwards, they made some motions with their feet 
and hands, shook his head and breathed upon him, when he came to 
himself. Our surgeon dressed his wounds, when he went off in good 
spirits. 

The next day, as we were calking our shallop, Sieur de Poutrin- 
court in the woods noticed a number of savages who were going, 
with the intention of doing us some mischief, to a little stream, where 

*Cape Anne. fThe harbor of Gloucester. 



SAMUEL DE CHAMPLAIN IN 1605. 5 

a neck connects with the mainland, at which our party were doing 
their washing. As I was walking along this neck, these savages 
noticed me ; and, in order to put a good face upon it, since they saw 
I had discovered them thus seasonably, they began to shout and 
dance, and then came towards me with their bows, arrows, quivers, 
and other arms. And, inasmuch as there was a meadow between 
them and myself, I made a sign to them to dance again. This they 
did in a circle, putting all their arms in the middle. But they had 
hardly commenced, when they observed Sieur de Poutrincourt in the 
wood with eight musketeers, which frightened them. Yet they did 
not stop until they had finished their dance, when they withdrew in 
all directions, fearing lest some unpleasant turn might be served them. 
We said nothing to them, however, and showed them only demon- 
strations of gladness. Then we returned to launch our shallop, and 
take our departure. They entreated us to wait a day, saying that 
more than two thousand of them would come to see us. But, unable 
to lose any time, we were unwilling to stay here longer. I am of the 
opinion that their object was to surprise us. Some of the land was 
already cleared up, and they were constantly making clearings. Their 
mode of doing it as follows ; after cutting down the trees at a dis- 
tance of three feet from the ground, they burn the branches upon 
the trunk, and then plant their corn between these stumps, in course 
of time tearing up also the roots. There are likewise fine meadows 
here, capable of supporting a large number of cattle. This harbor is 
very fine, containing water enough for vessels, and affording a shelter 
from the weather behind the islands. It is in latitude 43°, and we 
gave it the name of Le Beauport. 

The last day of September we set out from Beauport,* and, pass- 
ing Cap St. Louis, stood on our course all night for Cap Blanc. 

*GIoucester. 



CAPTAIN JOHN SMITH IN 1614. 

CAPTAIN John Smith, the hero of Virginia, visited the New- 
England coast in 1614 in search of whales and mines of gold 
and in an open boat skirted the coast from the Penobscot to 
Cape Cod, After his return to England he published A Description 
of New England: or The Observations, and Discoveries, of Captain John 
Smith (Admiral of that Country), in the North of America, in the year 
of our Lord, 1614; London, 1616, a quarto volume of about eighty- 
pages, from which the following is reprinted. This is the earliest 
book in which the name "New England" occurs. 

Angoam* is the next ; This place might content a right curious 
judgement ; but there are many sands at the entrance of the harbor ; 
and the worst is, it is inbayed too farre from the deep Sea. Heere 
are many rising hilles, and on their tops and descents many corne 
fields, and delightfull groues. On the East, is an He of two or three 
leagues in length ; the one half, plaine marish grasse fit for pasture, 
with many faire high groues of mulberrie trees and gardens; and there 
is also Okes, Pines, and other woods to make this place an excellent 
habitation, beeing a good and safe harbor. 

Naimkeck^ though it be more rocke ground (for Angoam is sandie) 
is not much inferior ; neither for the harbor, nor any thing I could per- 
ceiue, but the multitude of people. From hence doth stretch into the 
Sea the faire headland Tragabigzanda,% fronted with three lies called 
the three Turks heads; to the North of this, doth enter a great Bay, 
where wee founde some habitations and corne fields ; they report a 
great Riuer, and at least thirtie habitations doo possesse this Countrie. 
But because the French had got their Trade, I had no leasure to dis- 
couer it. The lies of Mattahunts are on the West side of this Bay, 
where are many lies, and questionlesse good harbors ; and then the 
Countrie of the Massachusets, which is the Paradise of all those parts ; 
for, heere are many lies all planted with corne ; groues, mulberries, 
saluage gardens, and good harbors ; the Coast is for the most part, 
high clayie sandie cliffs. The Sea Coast as you passe, shewes you all 

*Ipswich. tSalem. tCape Anne. 

(6) 



CAPTAIN JOHN SMITH IN 1614. 7 

along large corne fields, and great troupes of well proportioned people ; 
but the French hauing remained heere neere sixe weekes, left nothing 
for vs to take occasion to examine the inhabitants relations, viz. if 
there be neer three thousand people vpon these lies ; and that the 
Riuer doth pearce many dales iournies the intralles of that Countrey. 
We found the people in those parts verie kinde ; but in their f urie no 
lesse valiant. For, vpon a quarrell wee had with one of them, hee 
only with three others crossed the harbor of Quonahassit to certaine 
rocks whereby wee must passe ; and there let file their arrowes for 
our shot, till we were out of danger. 



CHRISTOPHER LEVETT IN 1624. 

CHRISTOPHER Levett landed on the Isles of Shoals in the autumn 
of 1623. From there he went to the mouth of the Piscataqua 
river, and then to an island in what is now the harbor of Port- 
land, Me., where he established a settlement and left ten men while 
he returned to England for supplies. While he did not actually visit 
the Massachusetts Bay yet he alludes to Cape Anne and Plymouth in 
his printed narrative which was published in London in 1628 under 
the following title : — A Voyage into New England, begun in 1623, and 
ended in 1624. Performed by Christopher Levett. 

Thus have I related unto you what I have seen, and do know may 
be had in those parts of New England where I have been, yet was I 
never at the Massachusett, which is counted the paradise of New 
England, nor at Cape Ann, but I fear there hath been too fair a gloss 
set on Cape Ann. I am told there is a good harbour which makes a 
fair invitation, but when they are in, their entertainment is not an- 
swerable, for there is little good ground, and the ships which fished 
there this year, their boats went twenty miles to take their fish, and 
yet they were in great fear of making their voyages, as one of the 
masters confessed unto me who was at my house. 

Neither was I at New Plymouth, but I fear that place is not so good 
as many others, for if it were, in my conceit, they would content 



8 CHRISTOPHER LEVETT IN 1624. 

themselves with it and not seek for any other, having ten times so 
much ground as would serve ten times so many people as they have 
now amongst them. But it seems they have no fish to make benefit 
of, for this year they had one ship at Pemoquid, and another at Cape 
Ann, where they have begun a new plantation, but how long it will 
continue I know not. 



REV. FRANCIS HIGGINSON IN 1629. 

REV. Francis Higginson who had been settled at Claybrooke Par- 
ish, Leicester co., England, was engaged by "the Governour 
and Company of the Massachusetts-Bay in New England" to 
join the emigration under Endecott at Salem. He left England in 
the spring of 1629, and not long after his arrival was ordained as 
teacher of the church. The exposure and privations of the following 
winter proved too severe and he died of consumption Aug. 6, 1630. 
The manuscript of his book " New-Englands Plantation," undoubtedly 
was sent to England by one of the returning vessels for it reached 
London before Nov. 20, 1629 and was shortly printed. It had been 
written for "the satisfaction of loving friends" and doubtless played 
its part in influencing the larger emigration of 1630 and the years 
that followed. Three editions were printed, all in 1630. 

The following discriptive extracts are taken from an early manu- 
script in the Massachusetts Historical Society, describing the voyage 
and from the first edition of his book published under the following 
title : New-Englands Plantation, or, A short and trvc Description of the 
Commodities and Discommodities of that Countrey. Written by a reu- 
erend Diuine now there resident. London, 1630. 

By noon we were within 3 leagues of Capan, and as we sayled 
along the coasts we saw every hill and dale and every island full of 
gay woods and high trees. The nearer we came to the shoare the 
more flowers in abundance, sometymes scattered abroad, sometymes 
joyned in sheets 9 or 10 yards long, which we supposed to be brought 
from the low meadowes by the tyde. Now what with fine woods 
and greene trees by land, and these yellow flowers paynting the sea, 



REV. FRANCIS HIGGINSON IN 1629. 9 

made us all desirous to see our new paradise of New England, whence 
we saw such forerunning signals of fertilitie afarre off. Coming 
neare the harbour towards night we takt about for sea-roome. 

[June 27, 1629] Saturday a foggie morning ; but after 8 o'clocke 
in the morning very cleare, the wind being somewhat contrary at So. 
and by West, we tackt to and againe with getting little ; but with 
much adoe, about 4 o'clock in the afternoone having with much payne 
compassed the harbour, and being ready to enter the same, see how 
things may suddenly change ! there came a fearful gust of wind and 
rayne and thunder and lightning, whereby we were borne with no 
little terrour and trouble to our mariners, having very much adoe to 
loose downe the sayles when the fury of the storm held up. But 
God be praised it lasted but a while and soone abated agayne. And 
hereby the Lord shewed us what he could have done with us, if it 
had pleased him. But blessed be God, he soone removed this storme 
and it was a fayre and sweet evening. 

We had a westerly wind which brought us between 5 and 6 o'clock 
to a fyne and sweet harbour,* 7 miles from the head point of Capan. 
This harbour 20 ships may easily ryde therein, where there was an 
island whither four of our men with a boate went, and brought backe 
agayne ripe strawberries and gooseberries, and sweet single roses. 
Thus God was merciful to us in giving us a tast and smell of the 
sweet fruit as an earnest of his bountiful goodnes to welcome us at 
our first arrivall. This harbour was two leagues and something 
more from the harbour at Naimkecke,t where our ships were to rest, 
and the plantation is already begun. But because the passage is 
difficult and night drew on, we put into Capan harbour. 

[June 28] The Sabbath, being the first we kept in America, and 
the 7th Lord's day after we parted with England, 

[June 29] Monday we came from Capan, to go to Naimkecke, the 
wind northerly. I should have tould you before that the planters 
spying our English colours the Governour J sent a shalop with 2 men 
on Saturday to pilot us. These rested the Sabbath with us at Capan ; 
and this day, by God's blessing and their directions, we passed the 

♦Gloucester harbor. tThe Indian name for the settlement at Salem. 

JGovernor John Endecott. 



10 REV. FRANCIS HIGGINSON IN 1629. 

curious and difficult entrance into the large and spacious harbour of 
Naimkecke. And as we passed along it was wonderful to behould 
so many islands replenished with thicke wood and high trees, and 
many fayre greene pastures. And being come into the harbour we 
saw the George* to our great comfort then being on Tuesday which 
was 7 dales before us. We rested that night with glad and thankful 
hearts that God had put an end to our long and tedious journey 
through the greatest sea in the worlds. 

[June 30] The next morning the governour came aboard to our 
ship, and bade us kindly welcome, and invited me and my wiffe to 
come on shoare, and take our lodging in his house, which we did 
accordingly. 

First therefore of the Earth of New England and all the appurte- 
nances thereof : It is a land of diuers and sundry sorts all about 
Masathusets Bay, and at Charles Riuer is as fat blacke Earth as can 
be seene any where : and in other places you haue a clay soyle, in 
other grauell, in other sandy, as it is all about our Plantation at 
Salem, for so our towne is now named, Psal. 76. 2. 

The form of the Earth here in the superficies of it is neither too 
flat in the plainnesse, nor too high in Hils, but partakes of both in 
mediocritic, and fit for Pasture, or for Plow or Meddow Ground, as 
men please to employ it : though all the Countrey be as it were a 
thicke Wood for the generall, yet in diuers places there is much 
ground cleared by the Indians, and especially about the plantation : 
and I am told that about three miles from vs a man may stand on a 
little hilly place and see divers thousands of acres of ground as good 
as need to be, and not a Tree in the same. It is thought here is 
good Clay to make Bricke and Tyles and Earthen Pots as needs to 
be. At this instant we are setting a Bricke-kill on worke to make 
Brickes and Tyles for the building of our Houses. For Stone, here 
is plentie of Slates at the He of Slate in Masathulets Bay, and Lime- 
stone, Free-stone, and Smooth-stone, and Iron-stone, and Marble-stone 
also in such store, that we have great Rockes of it, and a Harbour 
hard by. Our Plantation is from thence called Marble-harbour. 

*The ship "George", 300 tons, 20 guns, had sailed early in April. 



REV. FRANCIS HIGGINSON IN 1629. 11 

Of Minerals there hath yet beene but Httle triall made, yet we are 
not without great hope of being furnished in that Soyle. 

The fertihtie of the Soyle is to be admired at, as appeareth in the 
aboundance of Grasse that groweth euerie where both verie thicke, 
verie long, and verie high in diuers places : but it groweth very wild- 
ly with a great stalke and a broad and ranker blade, because it neuer 
had been eaten with Cattle, nor mowed with a sythe, and seldom 
trampled on by foot. It is scarce to be believed how our Kine and 
Goats, Horses and Hogges doe thriue and prosper here and like well 
of this Countrey. 

In our Plantation we have already a quart of milke for a penny : 
but the aboundant increase of corne proues this Countrey to be a 
wonderment. Thirtie, fortie, fiftie, sixtie are ordinarie here: yea 
Josephs increase in Egypt is out-stript here with vs. our Planters hope 
to haue more then a hundred fould this yere : and all this while I am 
within compasse ; what will you say of two hundred fould and vpwards? 
It is almost incredible what great gain some of our English Planters 
haue had by our Indian Corne. Credible persons haue assured me, and 
the partie himselfe auouching the truth of it to me, that of the setting 
of 13 Gallons of Corne he hath had encrease of it 52 Hogsheads, 
euerie Hogshead holding seuen Bushels of London measure, and euerie 
Bushell was by him sold and trusted to the Indians for so much 
Beauer as was worth 18 shillings; and so of this 13 Gallons of Corne 
which was worth 6 shillings 8 pence, he made about 327 pounds of 
it the yeere following, as by reckoning will appeare : where you may 
see how God blesseth husbandry in this land. There is not such great 
and beautifull eares of Corne I suppose any where else to be found 
but in this Countrey : being also of varietie of colours, as red, blew 
and yellow, &c. and of one Corne there springeth four or fiue hun- 
dred. I haue sent you many Eares of diuers colours that you might 
see the truth of it. 

Little Children here by setting of Corne may earne much more 
then their owne maintenance. 

They haue tryed our English Come at new Plimouth plantation, so 
that all our seuerall Graines will grow here verie well, and haue a 
fitting Soyle for their nature. 



12 REV. FRANCIS HIGGINSON IN 1629. 

Our Gouemor hath store of greene Pease growing in his Garden 
as good as euer I eat in England. . . . 

Excellent Vines are here vp and doune in the woods. Our Gouer- 
nour hath already planted a Vineyard with great hope of increase. 
******** 

When we came first to Nehum kek, we found about halfe a score 
Houses, and a faire House newly built for the Gouernor, we found 
also aboundance of Come planted by them, very good and well like- 
ing. And we brought with vs about two hundred Passengers and 
Planters more, which by common consent of the old Planters were 
all combined together into one Body Politicke, vnder the same Gouer- 
nor. 

There are in all of vs both old and new Planters about three hun- 
dred, whereof two hundred of them are setled at Nehum kek, now 
called Salem : and the rest haue Planted themselues at Masathulets 
Bay, beginning to build a Towne there which wee doe call Cherton, 
or Charles Towne. 

We that are setled at Salem make what hast we can to build 
Houses, so that within a short time we shall haue a faire Towne. 

We haue great Ordnance, wherewith we doubt not but wee shall 
fortifie our selues in a short time to keepe out a potent Aduersarie. 
But that which is our greatest comfort, and meanes of defence aboue 
all other, is, that we haue here the true Religion and holy Ordinances 
of Almightie God taught amongst vs : Thankes be to God, we haue 
here plenty of Preaching, and diligent Catechizing, with strickt and 
carefull exercise, and good and commendable orders to bring our 
People into a Christian conuersation with whom wee haue to doe 
withall. And thus wee doubt not but God will be with vs, and if 
God be with us, who can he against us? 



GOVERNOR THOMAS DUDLEY IN 1631. 

GOVERNOR Dudley was one of the five undertakers of the settle- 
ment of the Massachusetts Bay and came over with the Win- 
throp emigration in 1630. He previously had been steward 
for nine or ten years in the household of the Countess of Lincoln. His 
"Letter to the Countess of Lincoln," here abstracted, was written in 
March, 1631 and first printed in 1696 with other papers in a book 
entitled : — Massachusetts : or, The First Planters of New England. The 
End and Manner of their Coming thither, and Abode there, Boston, 1696. 

Vppon the river of Mistick is seated Saggamore John, and vppon 
the river of Sawgus Sagamore James his brother, both soe named by 
the English. The elder brother John is an handsome young [one 
line missing] conversant with us affecting English apparell and bowses 
and speaking well of our God. His brother James is of a farr worse 
disposition, yet repaireth often to us. Both theis brothers command 
not above 30 or 40 men for aught I can learne. Neer to Salem dwell- 
eth two or three families, subiect to the Saggamore of Agawam whose 
name hee tould mee, but I have forgotten it. This Sagamore hath 
but few subjects, and them and himselfe tributary to Sagamore James, 
haveing beene before the last yeare (in James his minority) tributary 
to Chicka Talbott. Vppon the river Merrimack is seated Sagamore 
Passaconaway haveing under his command 4 or 500 men, being es- 
teemed by his countrymen a false fellow, and by us a wich. 

(13) 



WILLIAM WOOD IN 1633. 

THE .''New Englands Prospecf by William Wood, is the earliest 
topographical account of the Massachusetts Bay Colony, so 
far as the settlements then extended. It also has a full de- 
scription of its fauna and flora, and of the natives. He arrived in the 
Colony in 1629 and remained here four years residing at Lynn. He 
may have come a second time in 1635 and represented Lynn in the 
General Court in 1637, the next year removing to Sandwich where he 
is said to have died in 1639. His book was entered in the Stationer's 
Register, "7 Julii, 1634," and was published under the following title : 
New Englands Prospect. A true, lively, and experimentall description of 
that part of America, commonly called New England . . . By William 
Wood, London, 1634. 

The next plantation is Saugus, sixe miles North-east from Winnesi- 
met : This Towne is pleasant for situation, seated at the bottome of 
a Bay, which is made on the one side with surrounding shore, and on 
the other side with a long sandy Beach. This sandy Beach is two 
miles long at the end, whereon is a necke of land called Nahant : It 
is six miles in circumference ; well woodded with Oakes, Pines, and 
Cedars : It is beside well watered, having beside the fresh Springs, 
a great Pond in the middle ; before which is a spacious Marsh. In 
this necke is store of good ground, fit for the plow; but for the pres- 
ent it is onely used for to put young Cattle in, and weather-goates, 
and Swine, to secure them from the Woolues : a few posts and rayles 
from the low water-markes to the shore, keeping out thee Woolves, 
and keepes in the Cattle. One Blacke William, an Indian Duke, out 
of his generosity gave this place in generall to this plantation of Sau- 
gus, so that no other can appropriate it to himselfe. 

Upon the South-side of the sandy Beach the Sea beateth, which is 
a true prognostication, to presage stormes and foule weather, and 
the breaking up of the Frost : For when a storme hath beene, or is 
likely to be, it will roare like Thunder, being heard sixe miles ; and 
after stormes casts up great store of great Clammes, which the Indians 

(14) 



WILLIAM WOOD IN 1633. 15 

taking out of their shels, carry home in baskets. On the North-side 
of this Bay is two great Marshes, which are made two by a pleasant 
River which runnes betweene them. Northward up this River, goes 
great store of Alewives, of which they make good Red Herrings ; in 
so much that they have beene at charges to make a wayre, and a 
Herringhouse, to dry these Herrings in ; the last yeare were dryed 
some 4 or 5 Last for an experiment, which proved very good ; this is 
like to prove a great inrichment to the land, (being a staple commo- 
ditie in other Countries) for there be such innumerable companies in 
every river, that I have seene ten thousand taken in two houres by 
two men, without any weire at all, saving a few stones to stop their 
passage up the river. There likewise come store of Basse, which the 
Indians and English catch with hooke and line, some fifty or three- 
score at a tide. At the mouth of this river runnes up a great creeke 
into that great Marsh, which, is called Rumny Marsh, which is 4 miles 
long, and 2 miles broad ; halfe of it being Marsh ground and halfe 
upland grasse, without tree or bush : this Marsh is crossed with divers 
creekes, wherein lye great store of Geese, and Duckes. There be 
convenient ponds for the planting of Duckcoyes. Here is likewise 
belonging to this place divers fresh meddowes, which afforded good 
grasse and foure spacious ponds like little lakes, wherein is store of 
fresh fish : within a mile of the town, out of which runnes a curious 
fresh brooke that is seldome frozen by reason of the warm.enesse of 
the water ; upon this streame is built a water Milne, and up this river 
comes Smelts and frost fish much bigger than a Gudgion. For wood 
there is no want, there being store of good Oakes, Wallnut, Caedar, 
Aspe, Elme ; The ground is very good, in many places without trees, 
fit for the plough. In this plantation is more English tillage, than in 
all new England, and Virginia besides ; which proved as well as could 
bee expected, the corne being very good especially the Barly, Rye, 
and Gates. 

The land affordeth the inhabitants as many rarities as any place 
else, and the sea more : the Basse continuing from the middle of 
Aprill to Michelmas, which stayes not above half that time in the 
Bay : besides here is a great deale of Rock-cod and Macrill, insomuch 
that shoales of Basse have driven up shoales of Macrill from one end 



16 WILLIAM WOOD IN 1633. 

of the sandie Beach to the other, which the inhabitants have gathered 
up in wheelbarrows. The Bay that lyeth before the Town at a low 
Spring-tyde, will be all flatts for two miles together, upon which is 
great store of Muscle-banckes, and Clam-bancks, and Lobsters amongst 
the rockes and grassie holes. These flatts make it unnavigable 
for shippes, yet at high water great Boates, Loiters, and Pinnaces 
of 20, and 30 tun, may saile up to the plantation, but they neede have 
a skilful Pilote, because of many dangerous rockes and foaming 
breakers, that lye at the mouth of that Bay. The very aspect of the 
place is fortification enough to keepe off an unknowne enemie. 
yet may it be fortified at a little charge, being but few landing places 
there about, and those obscure. 

Foure miles Northeast from Saugus lyeth Salem, which stands on 
the middle of a necke of land very pleasantly, having a South river 
on the one side, and a North river on the other side : upon this necke 
where the most of the houses stand is very bad and Sandie ground, 
yet for seaven yeares together it hath brought forth exceeding good 
come, by being fished* but every third yeare ; in some places is very 
good ground, and very good timber and divers springs hard by the 
sea side. Here likewise is store of fish, as Basses, Eeles, Lobsters, 
Clammes, &c. 

Although their land be none of the best, yet beyond those rivers 
is a very good soyle, where they have taken farmes, and get their 
Hay, and plant their come ; there they crosse these rivers with small 
Cannowes, which are made of whole pine trees, being about two foot 
& a half over, and 20 f oote long : in these likewise they goe a fowling, 
sometimes two leagues to Sea ; there be more Cannowes in this towne 
than in all the whole Patent ; every household having a water-house 
or two. 

This Towne wants an Alewife river, which is a great convenience ; 
it hath two good harbours, the one being called Winter, and the other 
Summer harbour, which lyeth within Derbies Fort, which place if it 
were well fortified, might keepe shippes from landing of forces in 
any of those two places. Marvill Head is a place which lyeth 4 miles 
full South from Salem, and is a very convenient place for a plantation, 

*Fertilized with fish. 



WILLIAM WOOD IN 1633. 17 

especially for such as will set upon the trade of fishing. There was 
made here a ships loading of fish the last yeare, where still stands 
the stages, and drying scaffolds ; here be good harbour for boates, 
and safe riding for shippes. Agowamme* is nine miles to the North 
from Salem, which is one of the most spatious places for a plantation, 
being neare the sea, it aboundeth with fish, and flesh of fowles and 
beasts, great Meads and Marshes and plaine plowing grounds, many 
good rivers and harbours and no rattle snakes. In a word, it is the 
best place but one, which is Merrimacke, lying 8 miles beyond it, 
where is a river 20 leaugues navigable, all along the river side is fresh 
Marshes, in some places 3 miles broad. 

In this river is Sturgeon, Sammon, and Basse, and divers other 
kinds of fish. To conclude, the Countrie hath not that which this 
place cannot yeeld. So that these two places may containe twice as 
many people as are yet in New England : there being as yet scarce 
any inhabitants in these two spacious places. Three miles beyond 
the river Merrimacke is the outside of our Patent for the Massachu- 
setts Bay. These be all the Townes that were begun, when I came 
for England, which was the 15 of August 1633. 

*Settled in 1633 as the town of Ipswich. 



THOMAS LECHFORD IN 1641. 

THOMAS Lechford was a lawyer who came over in 1638. But 
lawyers were not wanted in the Colony and he could barely 
earn a living for his family, so in August, 1641, he returned 
to England and wrote his book which he published the following 
year. It is full of information relating to the manners and customs 
in the Colony, and was published under the following title : Plain 
Dealing: or, Nevves for New-England. ... By Thomas Lechford of 
Clements Inne, in the County of Middlesex, Gent. London, 1642. 

The publique worship is in as f aire a meeting house as they can pro- 
vide, wherein, in most places, they have beene at great charges. 
Every Sabbath or Lords day, they come together at Boston, by wring- 
ing of a bell, about nine of the clock or before. The Pastor begins 
with solemn prayer continuing about a quarter of an houre. The 
Teacher then readeth and expoundeth a Chapter ; Then a Psalme is 
sung, which ever one of the ruling Elders dictates. After that the 
Pastor preacheth a Sermon, and sometimes ex tempore exhorts. Then 
the Teacher concludes with prayer and a blessing. . . . About two 
in the after-noone, they repaire to the meeting-house againe : and 
then the Pastor begins, as before noone, and a Psalme being sung, 
the Teacher makes a Sermon. He was wont, when I came first, to 
reade and expound a Chapter also before his Sermon in the afternoon. 
After and before his Sermon, he prayeth. 

After that ensues Baptisme, if there be any, . . . Which ended, 
follows the contribution, one of the Deacons saying, Brethren of the 
congregation, now there is time left for contribution, where fore as 
God hath prospered you, so freely offer. Upon some extraordinary 
occasions, as building and repairing of Churches or meeting-houses, 
or other necessities, the Ministers presse a liberall contribution with 
effectuall exhortations out of Scripture. The magistrates and chiefe 
Gentlemen first, and then the Elders, and all the congregation of men, 
and most of them that are not of the Church, all single persons, widows, 
and women in absence of their husbands, come up one after another 

(18) 



THOMAS LECHFORD IN 1641. 19 

one way, and bring their offerings to the Deacon at his seate, and 
put it into a box of wood for the purpose, if it bee money or papers ; 
if it be any other chattle, they set it or lay it downe before the Dea- 
cons, and so passe another way to theire seats againe. This contri- 
bution is of money, or papers, promising so much money : I have 
seene a faire gilt cup with a cover, offered there by one, which is still 
used at the Communion. . . . 

But in Salem Church, those onely that are of the Church, offer in 
publique ; the rest are required to give to the Ministerie, by collection, 
at their houses. At some other places they make a rate upon every 
man, as well within, as not of the Church, residing with them, to- 
wards the Churches occasions ; . . . 

These are the Ministers of the Bay. ... At Lynne, master Whiting 
Pastor, master Cobbet Teacher : At Salem, master Peter Pastor, mas- 
ter Norris Teacher, and his Sonne a Schoole-master : At Ipswich, 
master Rogers Pastor, master Norton Teacher, and master Nathaniel 
Ward, and his sonne, and one Master Knight, out of employment : 
At Rowley, Master Ezek. Rogers Pastor, Master Miller : At Newberry, 
Master Noyse Pastor, Master Parker Teacher : He is sonne of Master 
Robert Parker, sometime of Wilton, in the County of Wiltes, deceased, 
who in his life time writ that mis-learned and mistaken Book De Pol- 
iteia Eccleseastica. . . . 

The Lady Moody lives at Lynne, but is of Salem Church, shee is 
(good Lady) almost undone by buying master Humphries farme, 
Swampscot, which cost her nine, or eleven hundred pounds. . . . 

... A Church as gathered for that Island [Long Island, N. Y.] 
at Lynne, in the Bay, whence some, by reason of straitnesse, did re- 
move to the said Island ; and one master Simonds, heretofore a servant 
unto a good gentlewoman whom I know, was one of the first Founders. 
Master Peter of Salem was at the gathering, and told me the said 
master Henry Simonds made a very cleare confession. . . . 

And at Cape Anne, where fishing is set forward, and some stages 
builded, there one master Rashley is Chaplain : for it is farre off from 
any Church : Rashley is admitted of Boston Church, but the place ly- 
eth next Salem, and not very far further from Ipswich. 



EDWARD JOHNSON IN 1652. 

EDWARD Johnson was the town clerk of Woburn where he died 
in 1672 aged 73 years. His book describes what took place in 
the Colony under his observation and undoubtedly he had visit- 
ed the various towns of which he gives an account. The book is sup- 
posed to have been written a year or two before 1652 and the London 
publisher may have supplied its title page : The Wonder- Working 
Providence of Sion's Saviour in New England: A History of New 
England from the English Planting in 1628, until the yeere 1652. . . . 
London, 1654. 

Of the Sixth Church of Christ, gathered at Linn, 1631. 

The Sixth Church of Christ was gathered at Linn, betweene Salem 
and Charles Towne, her scituation is neere to a River, whose strong 
freshet at breaking up of Winter filleth all her Bankes, and with a 
furious Torrent ventes it selfe into the Sea ; This Towne is furnished 
with Mineralls of divers kinds, especially Iron and Lead, the forme of 
it is almost square, onely it takes two large a run into the Land-Ward 
(as most Townes do), it is filled with about one hundred Houses for 
dwelling ; Here is also an Iron Mill in constant use, but as for Lead 
they have tried but little yet. Their meeting-house being on a levell 
Land undefended from the cold North west-wind ; And therefore made 
with steps descending into the Earth, their streetes are straite and 
comly, yet but thin of Houses, the people mostly inclining to Husband- 
ry, have built many Farmes Remote there, Cattell exceedingly multi- 
plied, Goates which were in great esteeme at their first comming, 
are now almost quite banished, and now Horses, Kine and Sheep are 
most in request with them, the first feeder of this flock of Christ was 
Mr. Stephen Batchelor, gray and aged. 

Of the Ninth Church of Christ, gathered at Ipswich. 

This year came over a farther supply of Eminent instruments for 
furthering this admirable Worke of his, amongst whom the Reverend 

(20) 



EDWARD JOHNSON IN 1652. 21 

and judicious servant of Christ Mr. Nathaniel Ward, who tooke up 
his station at the Towne of Ipswich, where the faithfull servants of 
Christ gathered the Ninth Church of his. This Towne is scituated on 
a faire and dehghtfull River, whose first rise or spring begins about 
five and twenty Miles farther up in the Countrey, issuing forth a very 
pleasant pond. But soone after it betakes its course through a most 
hideous swamp of large extent, even for many Miles, being a great 
Harbour for Beares ; after its comming forth this place, it groweth 
larger by the income of many small Rivers, and issues forth in the Sea, 
due East over against the Island of S holes, a great place for fishing for 
our English Nation. The peopling of this Towne is by men of good 
ranke and quality, many of them having the yearly Revenue of large 
Lands in England before they came to this Wildernesse, but their 
Estates being imployed for Christ, and left in banke, as you have 
formerly heard, they are well content till Christ shall be pleased to 
restore it againe to them or theirs, which in all reason should be out 
of the Prelates Lands in England. Let all those, whom it concernes 
(to judge) consider it well, and do Justice herein. 

This Towne lies in the Saggamooreship, or Earldome of Aggawam, 
now by our English Nation called Essex. It is a very good Haven 
Towne, yet a little barr'd up at the Mouth of the River, some Mar- 
chants here are, (but Boston, being the chiefest place of resort of 
Shipping, carries away all the Trade) they have very good Land for 
Husbandry, where Rocks hinder not the course of the Plow ; the Lord 
hath been pleased to increase them in Come and Cattell of late ; 
Insomuch that they have many hundred quarters to spare yearly, and 
feed, at the latter end of Summer, the Towne of Boston with good 
Beefe ; their Houses are many of them very faire built with pleasant 
Gardens and Orchards, consisting of about one hundred and forty 
Families. Their meeting-house is a very good prospect to a great 
part of the Towne, and beautifully built. The Church of Christ here 
consists of about one hundred and sixty soules, being exact in their 
conversation, and free from the Epidemicall Disease of all Reforming 
Churches, which under Christ is procured by their pious Learned and 
Orthodox Ministery, as in due place (God willing) shall be declared, 
in the meane time, look on the following Meeters concerning that 
Souldier of Christ Master Nathaniel Ward. 



22 edward johnson in 1652. 

Of the Church of Christ gathered at Newberry. 

In the latter end of this yeare, two sincere servants of Christ, in- 
abled by him with gifts to declare his minde unto his people, came 
over this broad Ocean, and began to build the Tenth Church of Christ 
at a Towne called Newberry, their names being Mr. James Noise, and 
Mr. Thomas Parker, somewhat differing from all the former, and af- 
ter mentioned Churches in the preheminence of their Presbytery, and 
it were to be wished that all persons, who have had any hand in those 
hot contentions which have fallen out since about Presbyterian and 
Independent Government in Churches, would have looked on this Ex- 
ample, comparing it with the Word of God, and assuredly it would 
have stayed (all the godly at lest) of either part from such unworthy 
expressions as have passed to the grief of many of Gods people; And 
I doubt not but this History will take of that unjust accusation, and 
slanderous imputation of the rise of that floud of errors and false 
Doctrines sprung up of late, as flowing from the Independent or rather 
congregationall Church. But to follow on, this Town is scituate about 
twelve miles from Ipswitch, neere upon the wide venting streames of 
Merrimeck River, whose whole strong current is such, that it hath 
forced its passage through the mighty Rocks, which causeth some 
sudden falls, and hinders Shipping from having any accesse far into 
the Land, her bankes are in many places stored with Oken Timber 
of all sorts, of which, that which they commonly call'd white Oke, 
is not inferious to our English Timber ; in this River lie some few Is- 
lands of fertill Land,, this Towne is stored with Meddow and upland, 
which hath caused some Gentlemen, (who brought over good Estates, 
and finding then no better way to improve them) to set upon hus- 
bandry, amongst whom that Religious and sincere hearted servant 
of Christ Mr. Richard Dummer, sometime a Magistrate in this little 
Common-wealth hathholpen on this Town, their houses are built very 
scattering, which hath caused some contending about removall of 
their place for Sabbath- Assemblies, their Cattell are about foure hun- 
dred head, with store of Corne-land in tillage, it consists of about sev- 
enty Families, the soules in Church fellowship are about an hundred, 
the teaching Elders of this Congregation have carried it very lovingly 
toward their people, permitting of them to assist in admitting of per- 



EDWARD JOHNSON IN 1652. 23 

sons into Church-society, and in Church -censures, so long as they Act 
regularly, but in case of their male-administration, they assume the 
power wholly to themselves, their godly life and conversation hath 
hitherto been very amiable, and their paines and care over their fiock 
not inferiour to many others, and being bound together in a more 
stricter band of love then ordinary with promise to spend their dayes 
together. 

This yeare the reverend and judicious M. Jos. G/oyer undertook this 
long voyage, being able both in person and estate for the work he 
provided, for further compleating the Colonies in Church and Com- 
monwealth-work, a Printer, which hath been very usefull in many 
respects ; the Lord seeing it meet that this reverend and holy servant 
of his should fall short of the shores of New England; but yet at this 
trnie he brought over the zealous affected and judicious servant of 
his, Master Ezekiel Rogers, who with a holy and humble people, made 
his progress to the North-Eastward, and erected a Towne about 6 
miles from Ipswich, called Rowly, where wanting room, they purchased 
some addition of the Town of Newberry; yet had they a large length 
of land, onely for the neere conveniency to the Towne of Ipswich, by 
the which meanes they partake of the continued Lectures of either 
Towne ; these people being very industrious every way, soone built 
many houses, to the number of about threescore families, and were 
the first people that set up making of Cloth in this Western World ; 
for which end they built a fulling-mill, and caused their little-ones to 
be very diligent in spinning cotton wooll, many of them having been 
clothiers in England, till their zeale to promote the Gospel of Christ 
caused them to wander ; and therefore they were no lesse industrious, 
in gathering into Church society, there being scarce a man among 
them, but such as were meet to be living stones in this building, ac- 
cording to the judgement of man. 

The next Town and Church of Christ planted in this Colony, was 
between Salem and Ipswitch, Salem the eldest of all the Sisters was 
very helpful to this her little Sister, nourishing her up in her own 
bosom, till she came of age, being beneficial to her besides, in giving 
her a good portion of Land ; this Town is called Wenham, and is very 



24 EDWARD JOHNSON IN 1652. 

well watered, as most in-land Towns are, the people live altogether 
upon husbandry. New England having train'd up great store to this 
occupation, they are encreased in cattel, and most of them live very 
well, yet are they no great com.pany ; they were some good space of 
time there before they gathered into a Church-body, the godly and 
reverend Mr. John Fisk went thither with them, at first setting down 
as a planter among them, yet withal he became helpful in preaching 
the Word unto them, when they were but a few in number, they 
afterward call'd him to the office of a Pastor, with whom he now re- 
mains, labouring in the Word and Doctrine, with great industry. 

There was another Towne and Church of Christ erected in the 
Mattachuset Government, upon the Northern-Cape of the Bay, called 
Cape Ann, a place of fishing, being peopled with Fishermen, till the 
reverend Mr. Richard Blindman came from a place in Plimouth Plan- 
tation called Green Harbor, with some few people of his acquaintance, 
and setled down with them, named the Town Glocester, and gathered 
into a Church, being but a small number, about fifty persons, they 
called to office this godly reverend man, whose gifts and abilities to 
handle the word, is not inferiour to many others, labouring much 
against the errors of the times, of a sweet, humble, heavenly carriage ; 
This Town lying out toward the point of the Cape, the access there- 
unto by Land become uneasie, which was the chief cause it was not 
more populated ; Their fishing trade would be very beneficial, had 
they men of estates to mannage it ; yet are they not without other 
means of maintenance, having good timber for shipping, and a very 
sufficient builder, but that these times of combustion the Seas through- 
out hath hindered much that work, yet have there been Vessels built 
here at this Town of late. 

Of the planting the eighteenth Church of Christ at the 
TowNE of Salisbury. 

For further perfecting this Wildernesse-worke ; not far from the 
Towne of Hampton was erected another Towne, called Salsbury, be- 
ing brought forth as Twins, sometime contending for eldership ; This 
being seated upon the broade swift torrent of Merrimeck, a very good- 



EDWARD JOHNSON IN 1652. 25 

ly River to behold, were it not blockt up with some suddaine falls 
through the rocks ; over against this Towne lyeth the Towne of 
Newberry, on the Southern side of the River a constant Ferry being 
kept between ; for although the River be about half a mile broad, 
yet, by reason of an Island that lies in the midst thereof, it is the 
better passed in troublesom weather ; the people of this Towne have 
of late, placed their dwellings so much distanced the one from the 
other, that they are like to divide into two Churches ; the scituation 
of this Towne is very pleasant, were the Rivers Navigable farre up, 
the branches thereof abound in faire and goodly medowes with good 
store of stately Timber upon the uplands in many places, this Towne 
is full as f ruitfull in her Land, Chattell, and Inhabitants, as her Sister 
Hampton; the people joyned in Church-relation or brotherhood, nere 
about the time the other did, and have desired and obtained the rev- 
erend and graciously godly, M. Thomas Woster to be their Pastor. 

The Town of Haverhill was built much about this time, lying high- 
er up then Salisbury, upon the fair and large river of Merrimeck ; the 
people are wholly bent to improve their labour in tilling the earth, 
and keeping of cattel, whose yearly encrease incourages them to 
spend their days in those remote parts, the constant penetrating far- 
ther into this Wilderness, hath caused the wild and uncouth woods 
to be fil'd with frequented wayes, and the large rivers to be over laid 
with Bridges passeable, both for horse and foot ; this Town is of a 
large extent, supposed to be ten miles in length, there being an over- 
weaning desire in most men after Medow land, which hath caused 
many towns to grasp more into their hands then they could after- 
wards possibly hold ; the people are not unmindful also of the chief 
end of their coming hither, namely, to be made partakers of the 
blessed Ordinances of Christ, that their souls might be refreshed with 
the continual income of his rich grace, to which end they gathered into 
a Church-body, and called to office the reverend M. Ward, son to 
the former named M. Ward of Ipswitch. 



SAMUEL MAVERICK IN 1660. 

THIS account of New England was found in the Egerton Manu- 
scripts in the British Museum by Henry F. Waters and was 
published in the January, 1885 issue of the New-England 
Historical and Genealogical Register. It bears internal evidence that it 
was written by Samuel Maverick who records that he arrived in New 
England in 1624. He spent some years on Noddle's Island, now East 
Boston ; in fact, was living there when Winthrop came ; but being a 
zealous Episcopalian he suffered persecution and went to England to 
complain to the King. He was appointed in 1664 one of the four 
Commissioners for the settlement of difficulties in New England, and 
also to "reduce the Dutch in Manhadoes." Being unsuccessful in the 
Massachusetts Colony he removed to New York about 1665, where 
he probably died. His manuscript is entitled A Briefe Discription of 
New England and the several Townes therein, together with the present 
Government thereof. 

Salisbury New & Old — Seaven Miles to the Southward of Hampton 
is Meromack River, on the mouth of which on the Northside is seat- 
ted a Large Toune called Sallisbury, and 3 miles above it a Village 
called old Salisbury, where ther is a Saw Mill or two. The Com- 
modities this Toune affords are Corne, Cattle, Boards and Pipe 
Staues. 

Haverhill Andover — Fouer Leagues up this River is Haverell, a pretty 
Toune & a few miles higher is the Toune of Andouer both these 
Tounes subsist by Husbandry. 

Newbury — At the mouth on the southside of Meromack and upwards 
is seated the Towne of Newbury, the Houses stand at a good distance 
each from other a feild and Garden between each house, and so on 
both sides the street for 4 miles or therabouts betweene Salisbury and 
this Towne, the River is broader then the Thames at Deptford, and 
in the Sumer abounds with Sturgeon, Salmon and other ffresh water 
fish. Had we the art of takeing and saveing the Sturgeon it would 

(26) 



SAMUEL MAVERICK IN 1660. 27 

prove a very great advantage, the Country affording Vinager, and 
other Materialls to do it withall. 

In this Towne and Newbury adjoining are 2 Meeting Houses. 

Rowley — Three Miles beyound this Old Newbury is a large and pop- 
ulous Towne called Rowley about two miles from the Bay of Ago- 
wame within land the Inhabitants are most Yorkshiremen very la- 
borious people and drive a pretty trade, makeing Cloath and Ruggs 
of Cotton Wool, and also Sheeps wooll with which in few yeares the 
Countrey will abound not only to supply themselves but also to send 
abroad. This Towne aboundeth with Come, and Cattle, and have a 
great number of Sheep. 

Ipswich — Three Miles beyond Rowley lyeth Ipswich at the head of 
Agawame River, as f arr up as Vessells cane come. It hath many In- 
habitants, and there farmes lye farr abroad, some of them severall 
miles from the Towne. So also they do about other Townes. 

Wenham — Six Miles from this Towne lyeth a Towne called Wen- 
ham seated about a great Lake or Pond which abounds with all man- 
ner of ffresh ffish, and such comodities as other places have it af- 
fordeth. 

Gloucester — Between these two Townes there runes out into the 
Sea that noated head land called Cape Ann fower miles within the 
outermost head. There is a Passage cutt through a Marsh between 
Cape Ann Harbour & Manisqwanne Harbour where stands the Towne 
called Glocester very comodious for building of shipping and ffishing. 

Manchester — Four miles Westward from Glocester, lyeth on the 
Sea side a small Towne called Manchester, there is a Sawmill and 
aboundance of Timber. 

Mackrell & Basse Cove — About six miles from this Towne lyeth by 
the Sea side a Village Called Mackarell Coue, and a mile or 2 aboue 
on a Branch of Salem River lyeth another Village called Basse Coue. 
These two have Joyned and built a Church, which stands between 
them both ower agst Salem. 

Salem — On the South side of Salem River stands on a peninsula the 
Towne of Salem, setled some yeares by a few people befor the Patent 
of the Massachusits was granted. It is very commodious for fishing, 
and many Vessells have been built there and (except Boston) it hath 
as much Trade as any place in New England both inland and abroad. 



28 SAMUEL MAVERICK IN 1660. 

Marblehead or Foy — Two miles below this Towne on the Southside 
of the Harbc by the sea side lyeth Marblehead or ffoy the greatest 
Towne for ffishing in New England. 

Lynne — Five miles Westward lyeth the Towne of Lynne along by 
the sea side, and two miles aboue it within the bounds of it are the 
greatest Iron works erected for the most part at the charge of some 
Merchants, and Gentlmen here resideing and cost them about 14000£, 
who were as it is conceived about six yeares since Injuriously outted 
of them to the great prejudice of the Country and Owners. 



JOHN JOSSELYN IN 1671. 

JOHN Josselyn, Gent, arrived in Boston in 1638 and was a guest 
of Samuel Maverick at Noddle's Island. He then went to Scar- 
borough, Maine, and stayed with his brother Henry until the end 
of 1639 when he went home. In 1663 he came again and remained 
in New England until December, 1671 when he returned to England 
and the following year published his valuable book New England's 
Rarities which gives an account of the flora and fauna of the country. 
In 1674 appeared his description of New England published under 
the following title : An Account of two Voyages to New England, Where- 
in you have the setting out of a Ship, with the charges ; The prices of all 
necessaries for furnishing a Planter & his Family at his first coming; A 
Description of the Country, Natives and Creatures; The Goverment 
of the Counirey as it is now possessed by the English, etc. . . . Byfohn 
Josselyn, Gent. Lond. 1674. 

Without Pullin-point, six miles North-east from Winnisimet is Caw- 
gust, or Sagust, or Saugut, now called Linn, situated at the bottom 
of a Bay near a River, which upon the breaking up of winter with a 
furious Torrent vents it self into the Sea, the Town consists of more 
than one hundred dwelling-houses, their church being built on a level 
undefended from the North-west wind is made with steps descending 
into the Earth, their streets are straight and but thin of houses, the 
people most husbandmen. 



JOHN JOSSELYN IN 1671. 29 

At the end of the Sandy beach is a neck of land called Nahant, it 
is six miles in circumference. Black William an Indian Duke out of 
his generosity gave this to the English. At the mouth of the River 
runs a great Creek into a great marsh called Rumney-marsh, which 
is four miles long and a mile broad, this Town hath the benefit of 
minerals of divers kinds, Iron, Lead, one Iron mill, store of Cattle, 
Arable land and meadow. 

To the North-ward of Linn is Marvil or Marblehead, a small Har- 
bour, the shore rockie, upon which the Town is built, consisting of a 
few scattered houses ; here they have stages for fishermen, Orchards, 
and Gardens, half a mile within land good pastures and Arable land. 

Four miles North of Marble-head is situated New-Salem (whose 
longitude is 315 degrees, and latitude 42 degrees 35 minutes) upon a 
plain, having a River on the South, and another on the North, it hath 
two Harbours, Winter Harbour and Summer Harbour which lyeth 
within Darbies fort, they have store of Meadow and Arable ; in this 
Town are some very rich Merchants. 

Upon the Northern Cape of the Massachusetts, that is Cape- Ann, 
a place of fishing is situated, the Town of Glocester where the Mass- 
achusetts Colony first set down, but Salem was the first Town built in 
that Colony, here is a Harbour for Ships. 

To the North-ward of Cape Ann is Wonasquam, a dangerous place 
to sail by in stormie weather, by reason of the many Rocks and foam- 
ing breakers. 

The next Town that presents itself to view is Ipswich situated by 
a fair River, whose first rise is from a Lake or Pond twenty mile up, 
betaking its course through a hideous Swamp for many miles, a Har- 
bour for Bears, it issueth forth into a large Bay, (where they fish for 
Whales) due East over against the Islands of Sholes a great place of 
fishing, the mouth of that River is barr'd ; it is a good haven-town, 
their meeting-house or Church is beautifully built, store of Orchards 
and Gardens, land for husbandry and Cattle. 

Wenham is an inland Town very well watered, lying between 
Salem and Ipswich, consisteth most of men of judgment and experi- 
ence in re rustica, well stored with Cattle. At the first rise of Ipswich 
River in the highest part of the land near the head springs of many 



30 JOHN JOSSELYN IN 1671. 

considerable Rivers ; Shashin one of the most considerable branches 
of Merrimach River, and also at the rise of Mistick-River, and ponds 
full of pleasant springs, is situated Wooburn an inland-Town four 
miles square beginning at the end of Charles-Town bounds. 

Six miles from Ipswich North-east is Rowley, most of the Inhabi- 
tants have been Clothiers. 

Nine miles from Salem to the North is Agowamine, the best and 
spaciousest place for a plantation, being twenty leagues to the North- 
ward of New-Plimouth. 

Beyond Agowamin is situated Hampton near the Sea-coasts not far 
from Merrimach-River, this Town is like a Flower-deluce, having two 
streets of houses wheeling off from the main body thereof, they have 
great stores of salt Marshes and Cattle, the land is fertil, but full of 
Swamps and Rocks. 

Eight miles beyond Agowamin runneth the delightful River Merri- 
mach or Morrumach, it is navigable for twenty miles and well stored 
with fish, upon the banks grow stately Oaks, excellent Ship timber, 
not inferiour to our English. 

On the South-side of Merrimach-River, twelve miles from Ipswich, 
and near upon the wide venting streams thereof is situated Newberrie, 
the houses are scattering, well stored with meadow, upland, and Ar- 
able, and about four hundred head of Cattle. 

Over against Newberrie lyes the Tovv'n of Salisbury, where a con- 
stant Ferry is kept, the River being here half a mile broad, the Town 
scatteringly built. 

Hard upon the River of Shashin where Merrimach receives this 
and the other branch into its body, is seated Andover, stored with 
land and Cattle. 

Beyond this Town by the branch of Merrimach-River called Sha- 
shin, lyeth Haverhill, a Town of large extent about ten miles in length, 
the inhabitants Husbandmen, this Town is not far from Salisbury. 



In September [1663] following my Arrivage in the Massachusets 
about the twelfth hour of the eight day, I shipt my self and goods 



JOHN JOSSELYN IN 1671. 31 

in a Bark bound to the Eastward, . . . About nine of the clock at 
night we came to Salem and lay aboard all night. 

The Ninth day we went ashore to view the Town which is a mile 
long, and lay that night at a Merchants house. 

The Tenth day we came from Salem about twelve of the clock 
back to Marble-head; here we went ashore and recreated our selves 
with Musick and a cup of Sack and saw the Town, about ten at night 
we returned to our Bark and lay aboard. 

The Eleventh being Saturday, and the wind contrary, we came to 
Charles-town again, about twelve of the clock we took store of 
Mackarel. 



JOHN DUNTON IN 1686. 

THIS young bookseller from London came to New England in 
1686 to collect a debt of five hundred pounds and incidentally 
to sell a considerable shipment of books that he had brought 
with him. Soon after arriving in Boston he opened a bookshop, and 
there he remained for five months during which time he indulged 
in "rambles" to nearby towns, Ipswich being the most distant. After 
returning to London, to his trade of bookselling he added that of 
publisher and shortly began to write books and pamphlets in great 
number. 

His Letters from New England were written some years after his 
visit to Boston, probably about the year 1700, and must not be con- 
sidered first-hand descriptions written upon the spot. Undoubtedly 
he visited the several towns that he describes and he also in all prob- 
ability met the men and women who are characterized, but it has been 
demonstrated* that his descriptions are largely borrowed from Josselyn 
and Roger Williams and his pictures of New England types are height- 
ened by liberal extracts from the English authors of his time. His 
account is readable, however, and in the main may be accepted as 
approximating a picture of the Colony at the time of his visit. 

*Chester N. Greenough in Publications of the Colonial Society of Massachusetts, 
Vol. 14, pp. 213-257. 



32 JOHN DUNTON IN 1686. 

My Fifth Ramble from Boston was to a Town now call'd Lin, but 
formerly by the Indians, Cawgust, Sawust, Saugut : To this Town 
three or four of my Acquaintance took a Ramble with me, for the 
day was so inviting, that none that had any leisure to go abroad, 
wou'd stay at home : They were before-hand determin'd to go abroad, 
so that I didn't reckon my self much beholden to 'em for their Com- 
pany, only they gave me leave to Chuse the place, and I pitch'd up- 
on Lin, being (as I before told you) still for New Discoveries. . . . 
We all agreed to this motion, and in a little Time came to Lin ; which 
is a Town situated at the Bottom of a Bay without Pullin-Point, six 
miles North-East from Winnisimet, near a River, which upon the 
breaking up of Winter vents it self with a furious Torrent into the 
Sea : The Town consists of more than an hundred dwelling Houses, 
their meeting-house being built upon a level, and defended from the 
North- West Wind, and is made with steps descending to it. Tho it 
be none of the first-rate Towns in this Countrey, yet there are many 
others that are inferiour to it. 

Neither my self nor any of my Friends with me had any acquaint- 
ance there ; so we went to a Publick House, where we met with good 
Accommodations : And our Host wou'd needs be acquainted with 
us whether we wou'd or no ; he was a bold forward sort of a man, 
and wou'd thrust himself into our Company, and take up all the Dis- 
course too, which was for the most part of his own good Qualities, 
Knowledge, and Understanding ; valuing himself at such a rate that 
he wou'd have made one of the three Dukes of Dunstable ; and yet 
wou'd bring Scripture to apologize for his Impertinence, telling us 
that a Candle shou'd not be hid under a Bus[hel], and made sensible 
that he wou'd not hide his, tho' it was but a Snuff, or at best but a 
rush Candle ; and therefore those few good Qualities he had, he was 
no Niggard in displaying : Some of the Company affronted him suf- 
ficiently, but he took no notice on't, for he thought no vice so preju- 
dical as Blushing. He din'd with us, without being invited, for he 
needed it not ; and his talk at the Table was like Benjamin's Mess, 
five times his part to any others ; and tho' we often shifted the Theme, 
yet no Argument wou'd shut him out for a Quarreller ; and rather 
than be non-plust, wou'd fly to Nonsense for Sanctuary ; For my part 



JOHN DUNTON IN 1686. 33 

I admir'd the address of his humour, and let him alone, for T perceiv'd 
he wou'd be sooner dash'd out of anything than Countenance ; and 
tho' at first he seem'd very troublesome, I was at last pleas'd with him ; 
for I found it was his trade, and that his Words serv'd equally 
for all men, and were all equally to no purpose : The best thing in 
him was, that his Troublesomeness made me shake off that Indisposi- 
tion that had lain upon me all Day, and brought me again to a good 
Humour. Having satisfyed the Cravings of our Stomacks with a 
good Dinner, and exhilerated our Spirits with some good Liquor, and 
being at last wearied with our Landlords Impertinence ; We paid 
our Reckoning, and return'd towards Boston again. 

******** 

I write to others the Relation of my Rambles, but unto you, my 
Dear, I write of Business : And so it happens, that 'tis my Business 
here to give you a Relation of my Rambles : For having stock'd the 
Town of Boston with my Books ; (some having bought more, I'm 
afraid, than they intend to pay for) and having still a Considerable 
Quantity left. Several Gentlemen have given me great Encourage- 
ment, (by their Promises of Assisting me in the Disposal of them) to 
send a Venture to Salem, (the next considerable Town to Boston in 
New England) and particularly one Mr. Sewel,* who is a Magistrate 
in that Town, has given me Assurance of a Kind Reception there. 
Besides, I am the more Encourag'd to it, as 'tis in this Town the 
generous Mr. Herrick has taken a House ; to whom for his Bottle of 
Water at Sea, mention'd in my Letter to Brother Lake, I was so much 
beholden : So that upon these considerations being resolv'd to send 
a Cargo thither, I thought it wou'd be first convenient to go my self, 
and see the Town, and take a Warehouse there, before I sent my Books. 
For I design to intrust Palmer as my Factor ; for having trusted 
much in the adjacent Towns, (especially at Connecticot) I cann't be 
above three Days absent from Boston : And having thus resolved to 
Ramble to Salem, it is my Ramble thither, my Reception there, and 
the Success thereof, relating to my Books, that I intend shall be the 
Subject of this Letter. 

I rambled to Salem all alone, (save that by an Intercourse of Souls, 
♦Major Stephen Sewell, Clerk of Courts and afterwards Register of Deeds. 



34 JOHN DUNTON IN 1686. 

my Dear, I had your Company) and upon Byard on Ten Toes too, 
like a meer Coriat : I shall say nothing of the several Towns I Ram- 
bled through to Salem, designing to describe them in my Ramble to 
Ipswich : But it may not perhaps be altogether unprofitable to tell 
you how I employ 'd my self, as I rambled along: For tho' I went by 
my self, yet I wanted no Company ; for I convers'd with every thing 
I met with ; and cou'd in some measure say with one of the Antient 
Fathers, I was never less alone than when I was alone. With these and 
the like Reflections I entertain'd my self upon the Road, and about Four 
of the Clock in the afternoon, I came to Salem ; and found the Town 
about a mile long, with many fine Houses in it ; and is reputed the 
next town to Boston for trade : The Account, my Dear, I have re- 
ceived about the Original of this Town, is. That in the year of our 
Lord 1628, Mr. John Endicot with a number of English People sat 
down by Cape Ann, at that place called afterwards Gloucester, but 
their abiding Place was at Salem, where they built a Town in 1629, 
and there they gathered a Church, consisting but of 70 Persons ; but 
afterwards it increased to 47 Churches in joynt Communion with one 
another ; and those Churches were about 7750 Souls : Mr. Endicot 
was chosen their first Governour. 

The first Person I went to visit in Salem, was Mr. Herrick : How 
kindly he receiv'd a poor Traveller, my Dear, whose Life he had sav'd 
at Sea, you may Easier guess than I relate. From his House, we went 
to take a Glass, and talk over our Sea- Voyage : What we found hard 
to suffer, twas easie to recite : Nay, there is a certain kind of Pleasure 
in the reflecting upon Dangers that are past. And tho' now it was 
several Months since, I found the Deliverances we had then, were 
still fresh in his Remembrance. When we were at the Tavern, among 
other things, I renew'd my Acknowledgements for his former kind- 
ness, and drank a kind Remembrance in Wine, to the Bottle of Water 
that had sav'd my Life at Sea ; and after that, to Captain Jenner,* 
and our Ships Crew. 

I have already told you, my Dear, that Travellers take Pleasure in 
recounting their past Dangers ; and had you heard how Mr. Herrick 

*Dunton came over in the ship Susannah and Thomas, commanded by Captain 
Thomas Jenner. 



JOHN DUNTON IN 1686. 35 

was affected with it, I am sure you cou'd have had a great Esteem 
for him ; he speaks of you with much Honour and Regard, and I be- 
Heve we drank your health a dozen times in an hours sitting. From 
hence he went with me to take a Ware-house, which I think stands 
very conveniently. Having settled that affair, Mr. Herrick wou'd 
fain have had me lodg'd with him ; which I believe I shou'd have 
accepted, but that Mr. Sewel, the Magistrate of Salem I before men- 
tion'd, sent me word he shou'd take it very unkindly if I did not make 
his House my Quarters : Whereupon, I desir'd Mr. Herricks Excuse, 
and lay at Mr. Sewel's who gave me a Reception worthy of himself. 
The Entertainment he gave me was truly Noble and Generous, and 
my Lodging so Extraordinary both with respect unto the Largeness 
of the Room, and Richness of the Furniture, as might have Entertain'd 
a King. So free he was, that had I staid a month there, I had been 
welcome gratis. To give you his Character ; in brief, my Dear, He 
is a Person whose Purse is great, but his Heart greater ; he loves to 
be bountiful, yet limits his Bounty by Reason : He knows what is 
good, and loves it ; and loves to do it himself for its own sake, and 
not for thanks : He is the Mirror of Hospitality, and neither Abraham 
nor Lot were ever more kind to strangers. As he is a Magistrate, he 
desires to have his Greatness measured by his Goodness ; and his 
Care is to live so, as to be an Example to the People. He wishes 
there were fewer Laws, so that they were better observ'd ; and for those 
that are Mulctuary, he thinks their institution not to be like Briars and 
Thorns, to catch every thing they lay hold of, but like Sea-marks to 
avoid the Shipwreck of ignorant and unwary Passengers. He thinks 
himself then most honourably seated, when he gives Mercy the Up- 
per hand ; and strives rather to purchase a good Name than Land. 

Having slept well in my New Quarters, the next Day I went to pay 
a Visit to the Ministers of Salem : (For you know, my Dear, they are 
generally the greatest Benefactors to Booksellers ; So that my pay- 
ing them a Visit, is but in other words to go among my Customers) 
who were Mr. Higgins,* an Antient and Grave Minister, in his Sta- 
ture and Physiognomy very much resembling your Reverend Father. 
He is one that knows the Burthen of his calling, and makes it [his] 

*Rev. John Higginson, the minister of the First Church. 



36 JOHN DUNTON IN 1686. 

business to Feed, and not Fleece his Flock. In his Discourse there is 
substance as well as Rhetorick ; and he utters more things than 
Words : In controversal Divinity, he uses soft words, but hard Ar- 
guments ; and labours more to shew the Truth of his Cause, than his 
Spleen : His sermon is limited by its Method, and not by the hour- 
glass ; and his Devotion goes along with him out of the pulpit. He 
preaches twice on the Lord's Day, and his Conversation is every Days 
Exercise. I din'd at his House, and he promises me great Assistance 
in my Business, and Speaks of your Father with a World of Honour. 
From him, I went to visit Mr. Noyse,* his Assistant, who is a hail, 
lusty man, appears to be my hearty Friend, and treated me with very 
much respect. 

Having made these Visits, the next day I went to Dine with Mr. 
Herrick, who gave me a very handsome and genteel Reception, and 
treated me with all that was rare in the Countrey, both as to variety 
of Fish and Flesh, and Choice of good Wine. In the afternoon he 
propos'd to shew me the Countrey round about Salem ; and the next 
morning we were to visit Drinkwater (the Carpenter of the Ship we 
came to Boston in) who lives a mile from Salem. Drinkwater was very 
glad to see his Two Fellow Travellers, and gave us the welcome of his 
House. And so Mr. Herrick and my self came back again to Salem. 
The next morning I took my leave of Mr. Sewel, making my Ac- 
knowledgments to him for all his Favours : Who was pleas'd to tell 
me, I shou'd have been more welcome had I made a longer stay : And 
renewed his former Promise of giving all the Encouragement he cou'd 
to my Venture, when it came thither. I then went to take my leave 
of Mr. Herrick also, to whom I esteem my self very much beholden, 
for his Generous Treatment and great Civility. And so having spent 
four Days in Salem, to my great satisfaction, I returned to Boston; 
and having made up a very considerable Cargo, I sent Palmer with 
it to Salem : Where he had very good Trading and took Money 
apace. But not having my Eye on him, I was told he neglected his 
Business and fell to shooting ; but quite missed the Mark I aimed at 
which was, to have my Books sold. 

*Rev. Nicholas Noyes, settled in 1683, a conspicuous figure at the time of the 
witchcraft delusion in Salem. 



JOHN DUNTON IN 1686. 37 



My Landlady (Mrs. Wilkins) having a Sister at Ipswich, which she 
had not seen a great while, Mrs. Comfort, her Daughter, (a young Gen- 
tlewoman Equally happy in the Perfections both of her Body and mind,) 
had a great desire to see her Aunt, having never been at her House, 
nor in that Part of the Countrey ; Which Philaret* having likewise 
a desire to see, and being never backward to accommodate the Fair 
Sex, Profers his Service to wait upon her thither, which was readily 
accepted by the young Lady, who knew Philaret so well, that she 
thought her self safe enough under his Protection, Nor were her 
Parents less willing to trust her with him ; and Philaret was as care- 
ful not to betray his Trust to any Inconvenience. And now. Sister, 
all things being ready for our Ramble, I took my Fair one up behind 
me, and rid to the River-side, which tho' it be often and usually cross'd 
in a Canoo, yet I rather chose to cross it in a Ferry, having my Horse 
with me : Having cross'd the River, We mounted again, and rid on 
our way ; meeting as we went a long with two or three Indians, who 
courteously saluted us, with, 'What Chear, Netop?' Netop in the 
Indian Language signifies Friend : I return'd their Salutation, and 
pass'd on ; not without observing that there is a vein of Civility and 
Courtesie runs in the Blood of these Wild Indians, both among them- 
selves and towards strangers. 

This Captain Marshall is a hearty old Gentleman, formerly one of 
OHver's Souldiers, upon which he very much values himself: He 
keeps an Inn upon the Road between Boston and Marble-Head : His 
House was well-furnished, and we had very good Accommodation. 
I enquir'd of the Captain what memorable Actions he had been in 
under Oliver, and I found I cou'd not have pleas'd him better ; he was 
not long in Resolving me of the Civil Wars at his Finger's Ends ; 
and if we may believe him, Oliver did hardly anything that was con- 
siderable without his Assistance ; For his good Service at the Fatal 
Battel of Naseby, (which gave such a Turn to the King's affairs, that 
he cou'd never after come to a pitch'd Battel,) he was made a Cap- 

*The name Dunton applied to himself, signifying "a lover of virtue." 
tCaptain Thomas Marshall, innkeeper at Lynn. 



38 JOHN DUNTON IN 1686. 

tain ; from thence he went to Leicester, and besieg'd that ; then went 
to York, and afterwards to Marston-Moor ; and in short. Rambled so 
far in his Discourse, that if I wou'd have stay'd as long as he'd have 
talk'd, he wou'd have quite spoil'd my Ramble to Plymouth ; and 
therefore giving Mrs. Comfort to understand that I begun to be un- 
easie, she very seasonably came into my Relief, and the Captain was 
forc'd to leave a great part of his Noble Exploits unrelated. My 
Fellow-Traveller and I, having taken our leave of the Captain, quick- 
ly mounted, and went on our Ramble towards Marble-Head. 

This Discourse had brought us to Marvail, or Marble-Head, a small 
Town or Harbour, the Shore Rocky, upon which the Town is built, 
consisting of a few scattered Houses, where they have Stages for 
Fishermen, Orchards and Gardens ; half a mile within Land, there 
is good Pastures, and Arable Land, very good. Having left Marble- 
Head behind us, we Rambled towards New Salem, four miles North 
of Marble-Head, and directly in our way to Ipswich ; but having given 
a large Account of this Place, and of my Ramble thither, and staying 
there for some time, in a Letter to my Dearest Iris, which you may 
see when you please, I shall say nothing further of it here, but that 
having call'd at a Friends House, and refresh'd our Selves, we Ram- 
bled on towards Wenham. 

I had just concluded my Discourse, as we came to Wenham, which 
is an Inland Town, very well watered, lying between Salem and Ips- 
wich, and consisteth most of Men of Judgment and Experience in 
Country Affairs ; well stored with Cattel. At the first Rise of Ipswich 
River, in the highest part of the Land, near the Head, are the Springs 
of many Considerable Rivers ; Shashin, one of the most considerable 
Branches of Merrimack River ; and also at the rise of Mistick River, 
are Ponds full of Pleasant Springs. In this Town of Wenham, lives 
one Mr. Geery ;* whose Father is now a Captain in Boston, in so de- 
licious a Paradice, that of all the Places in the Countrey, I shou'd 
have chosen this for the most happy Retirement : His House is neat 
and handsome, fitted with all Conveniences proper for the Countrey : 

*Rev. Joseph Gerrish, born in 1650 in Newbury. 



JOHN DUNTON IN 1686. 39 

And does so abound with every thing of his own, that he has no Oc- 
casion to trouble his Neighbours : The lofty spreading Pines on each 
side of his House, are a sufficient Shelter from the Winds ; And the 
Warm Sun so Kindly ripens both his Fruits and Flowers, as if the 
Spring, the Summer and the Autumn had agreed together to 
thrust Winter out of Doors ; He entertain'd us with such pleasant 
Fruits, as I must own Old England is a stranger to, and amongst all 
its great Varieties, knows nothing so Delicious. 

The honest Netop, or Friend Indian, had but just made an End of 
his Discourse, as we came to Ipswich : I gave him many thanks for 
the Information he had given me, and also for his good Company, 
and wou'd have made him drink, but he very thankfully refus'd it : 
And so we parted, he going about his Occasions, and I and my Fair 
Fellow-Traveller, to Mr. Steward's,* whose Wife was Mrs. Comfort's 
own Aunt ; whose Joy to see her Niece at Ipswich, was sufficiently 
Express'd by the Noble Reception we met with, and the Treatment 
we found there ; which far out-did whate'er we cou'd have Thought : 
And tho' my self was but a Stranger to them, yet the Extraordinary 
Civility and respect they shew'd me, gave me reason enough to think 
I was very Welcome. 

It was late when we came thither, and we were both very weary, 
which yet wou'd not Excuse us from the Trouble of a very Splendid 
Supper, before I was permitted to go to Bed ; which was got ready 
in so short a time, as wou'd have made us think, had we not known 
the Contrary, that it had been ready Provided against we came. Tho' 
our Supper was extraordinary, yet I had so great a desire to go to 
Bed, as made it to me a troublesome Piece of Kindness. But this 
Being happily over, I took my leave of my Fellow-Traveller, and was 
conducted to my appartment by Mrs. Stewart herself, who Character 
I shan't attempt tonight, being so very weary, but reserve till to 
morrow morning : Only I must let you know that my appartment 
was so Noble, and the Furniture so suitable to it, that I doubt not 

*WiIliam Stewart died in Ipswich, Aug. 5, 1693 aged 44 years. He lived in the 
ancient house yet standing at the corner of High and Manning streets and now 
known as the Caleb Lord house. 



40 JOHN DUNTON IN 1686. 

but even the King himself has been of ten-times contented with a 
worser Lodging. 

Having repos'd my self all Night upon a Bed of Down, (than which 
there cou'd be nothing softer but the Arms of Iris,) I slept so very 
soundly that the Sun, (who lay not on so soft a Bed as I did) had got 
the start of me, and rise before me ; but was so kind however as to 
make me one of his first visits, and to give me the Bonjeour ; on which 
I straight got up and dress'd my self, having a mind to look about 
me and see where I was : And having took a view of Ipswich, I found 
it to be situated by a fair River, whose first Rise from a Lake or Pond 
was twenty miles up, breaking its course thorow a hideous Swamp 
for many miles, a harbour for Bears ; it issueth forth into a large Bay, 
(where they fish for Whales,) due East over against the Island of 
Sholes, a great place of fishing ;* the mouth of that River is barr'd : 
It is a good Haven Town ; their Meeting-House or Church is built 
very beautifully : There is store of Orchards and Gardens about it, 
and good Land for Cattel and Husbandry. 

But I remember, Sister, I promis'd to give you Mrs. Steward's 
Character, and if I hadn't, yet Gratitude and Justice wou'd exact it 
of me : Her Stature is of a middle size fit for a Woman ; Her Face 
is still the magazine of Beauty, whence she may fetch Artillery enough 
to wound a Thousand Lovers ; and when she was about 18, perhaps 
there never was a Face more sweet and charming : Nor cou'd it well 
be otherwise, since now at 33, all you call sweet and ravishing, is in 
her face ; which 'tis as great a Pleasure to behold, as a perpetual 
Sunshine, without any Clouds at all ; and yet all this sweetness is 
joyn'd with such attractive vertue as draws all to a certain distance, 
and there detains them with reverence and admiration, none ever 
daring to approach her nigher, or having power to go further off. 
She's so obliging, courteous and civil, as if those qualities were only 
born with her, and rested in her Bosom as their Center. Her Speech 
and her Behaviour is so gentle, sweet, and affable, that whatsoever 
Men may talk of Magic, there is none Charms but she. So good a 
Wife she is, she frames her Nature to her Husband's ; the Hiacinth 

*The previous fifty-three words are taken almost verbatim from Edward John- 
son's Wonder Working Providence, London, 1654. 



JOHN DUNTON IN 1686. 41 

follows not the Sun more willingly, than she her Husbands pleasure. 
Her Household is her Charge ; her care to that, makes her but seldom 
a Non-resident. Her Pride is to be Neat and Cleanly, and her Thrift 
not to be Prodigal. And, to conclude, is both Wise and Religious, 
which makes her all that I have said before. 

In the next place. Sister, I suppose yourself will think it reasonable, 
that unto Mrs. Stewards, I shou'd add her Husband's Character; 
whose Worth and Goodness do^well merit it : As to his Stature 'tis 
inclining to Tall ; and as to his Aspect, if all the Lineaments of a 
Sincere and honest-hearted Man were lost out of the World, they 
might be all retrievd, by looking on his Face : He's one whose 
Bounty is limited by Reason, not by Ostentation ; and to make it last, 
he deals it discreetly ; as we Sowe our Land not by the Sack, but by 
the handful : He is so sincere and upright, that his word and his 
meaning never shake hands and part, but always go together : His 
Mind is always so serene, that Thunder does but rock him a sleep, 
which breaks other Mens slumbers. His Thoughts have an Aim as 
High as Heaven, tho' their Residence be in the Valley of an humble 
Heart. He is not much given to talk, tho' he knows how to do it as 
well as any Man : He loves his Friend, and will do any thing for him, 
except it be to wink at his faults, of which he will be always a severe 
Reprover : He is so good a Husband, that he is worthy of the Wife, 
that he Enjoys, and wou'd even make a bad Wife good by his Example. 

Ipswich, my Sister, is a Country Town, not very large, and when 
a Stranger arrives there, 'tis quickly known to every one : It is no 
wonder then that the next day after our Arrival, the News of it was 
carry'd to Mr. Hubbald,* the Minister of the Town, who hearing that 
I was the Person that had brought over so great a venture of Learn- 
ing, did me the Honour to make me a visit at Mr. Steward's, where 
I lay, and afterwards kindly invited me and my Fellow Traveller to 
his own House, where he was pleas'd to give us a very handsome 
Entertainment. His writing of the History of Indian Warrs, shews 
him to be a Person of good Parts and Understanding : He is a sober, 
grave, and well accomplished Man ; a good Preacher (as all the Town 
affirm, for I didn't hear him) and one that lives according to his 
Preaching. 

*Rev. William Hubbard, minister and historian. 



42 JOHN DUNTON IN 1686. 



The next day I was for another Ramble, in which Mr. Steward was 
pleas'd to accompany me, (but I left Mrs. Comfort with her Aunt) 
and the place we went to, was a Town call'd Rowley, lying six miles 
North-East from Ipswich, where most of the Inhabitants had been 
Clothiers : But there was that Day a great Game of Foot-Ball to be 
play'd, which was the occasion of our going thither ; There was an- 
other Town that play'd against them, as is sometimes common in 
England ; but they play'd with their bare feet, which I thought was 
very odd ; but it was upon a broad Sandy Shoar, free from Stones, 
which made it more easy. Neither were they so apt to trip up one 
anothers heels and quarrel, as I have seen 'em in England. . , . Af- 
ter their Sport was over we return'd home. . . , 

From whence we were not long a going to his House, where Mrs. 
Steward had provided us a good Supper, and gave us a hearty welcome 
home. 

You know my Rambling Humour, Sister, and that I am still for 
new Discoveries, which made me the next morning Enquire of Mr. 
Steward's Servants what other Towns there lay near Ipswich : (for I 
had a months mind that Day to make another Ramble) and they ac- 
quainted me that about Seven miles off there was the Town of Glou- 
sester, and that their Mistress had a Kinswoman that liv'd there, and 
therefore they believ'd she wou'd be very ready to go along with me 
thither. I was very well pleas'd with this Information, and presently 
went in and told Mrs. Steward, that I was for another Ramble that 
Day, being for seeing as much of the Countrey as I cou'd : She ask'd 
me whether I design'd to Ramble ? I told her I design'd for Glou- 
cester : 'O,* says she straight, 'I have a Kinswoman lives there, I 
want to see, and therefore Cousin Comfort and my self will go a long 
with you.' I readily accepted of her Kind offer, it being all I wanted ; 
but Mr. Steward, by reason of some Business he had before appointed 
on that Day, cou'd not go with us, but sent his Chiefest Man, with 
one of his best Horses, to wait upon his Wife. 

The Way we rid was very pleasant ; for there the lofty Trees 
with their proud Spreading Tops, made a refreshing Shade, and kept 
us from the Suns too Officious Kindness. Besides the constant Pros- 



JOHN DUNTON IN 1686. 43 

pect of the Sea on our right hand, brought us such cool refreshing 
Breezes thence, as made our Journey extream delightful, tho' the Sun 
shin'd very hot : . . . 

We were now come to Gloucester, which is a pretty little Town. 
Here it was that the Massachusets Colony first set down, tho' Salem 
was the first Town built in that Colony. Here is a very fine Harbour 
for Ships. Mrs. Steward's kinswoman, who was a very obliging 
Country- Widow, receiv'd us very kindly, and made us very welcome. 
While Mrs. Steward and Mrs. Comfort were talking with their kins- 
woman, my self and Mr. Steward's Man took a walk about the Town 
and went down to see the Harbour. 

... So returning to the House again, we found Mrs. Steward and 
Mrs. Comfort waiting for us to take Horse ; which (after taking my 
Leave of the Widow, and thanking her for our kind Entertainment) 
we quickly did, and came back in very good time to Ipswich, where 
Mr. Steward had taken care to have a good Supper ready for us. 

The next morning, I was Returning to Boston, but Mr. Steward 
was very solicitous to have me stay that day, and go with him to 
Wanasquam,* and Indian Town, where he had some business : I 
confess he hit me in the right Vein, for I lov'd Rambling dearly, and 
knew not how to deny him ; and therefore was easily perswaded to 
go with him. Having refresh'd our selves before we went, by eating 
a good Breakfast, we began our Ramble, and had rid almost half the 
way to Wanasquam, when on the Road we met an Indian Woman, 
with her face all over black'd with soot, having a very sorrowful and 
rueful sort of Countenance ; and quickly after, two or three Indian 
Men in the same black and sorrowful Condition, that had I been alone, 
it wou'd have frightened me. But having Mr. Steward with me, I 
was well enough : Indeed they all pass'd by us very civilly, saying 
only Ascowequassum, which is in English Good morrow to you. 

Mr. Steward ask'd me if I had ever seen any of those blackfac'd 
Indians before? I told him No, and ask'd him what the meaning of 
it was ? He told me. They had had some Relation very lately dead ; 
and that the Blacking of their Faces, was equivalent to the Englishes 
going into Mourning for their Relations ; and ask'd me whether I had 

*Annisquam, near Gloucester? 



44 JOHN DUNTON IN 1686. 

ever seen an Indian Burial ? I told him No, nor English neither, in 
New-England, for none had dy'd that I remember'd, since I came in- 
to the Country. 

But the End of his Story having brought us to the beginning of 
Wanasquam, put an End to our Discourse ; It is a very sorry sort of 
a Town, but better to come at by Land than by Water : For it is a 
dangerous place to sail by, especially in stormy weather, by reason 
of the many Rocks and foaming Breakers all about it. We saw sev- 
eral other mourning Indians in that Town ; and upon Enquiry found 
that one of the chief Indians in the Town was lately dead and buried. 
There was nothing else remarkable to be seen in the Town, and 
therefore as soon as Mr. Steward had done his business, we return'd 
back to Ipswich. And early the next morning, having paid our hearty 
and repeated thanks to Mr. Steward and his Charming Wife, for the 
Noble Entertainment we had receiv'd from them, my self and Mrs. 
Comfort took our leaves, and made the best of our way for Boston, 
where we arriv'd according to our Promise, to the great satisfaction 
of my good Landlord and his Wife : Mrs. Comfort being no less 
pleas'd with the pleasure of her Journey, than I was for her good 
Company. 



EDWARD WARD IN 1699. 

EDWARD Ward was born in Oxfordshire, England, in 1667 and 
after visiting Jamaica and New England became a taverner 
in London. His tavern and punch shop was located next door 
to Gray's Inn and was known as "The King's Arms." He began to 
publish pamphlets in 1691 and at his death in 1731 had produced over 
one hundred among them being an account of his visit to Boston, a 
folio tract of sixteen pages published with the following title : — A 
Trip to New-England with a character of the Country and People. . . . 
London, 1699. 

They have a Charter for a Fair at Salem, but it Begins, like Inger- 
stone Market, half an Hour after Eleven a Clock, and Ends half an 
Hour before Twelve : For I never see any thing in it but by great 
Accident, and those were Pumkins, which were the chief Fruit that 
supported the English at their first settling in these parts. But now 
they enjoy plenty of good Provisions, Fish, Flesh and Fowl, and are 
become as great Epicures, as ever Din'd at Pontack's ordinary. 

Lobsters and Cod-fish are held in such disdain, by reason of their 
Plenty, 'tis as Scandalous for a poor Man in Boston to carry one 
through the streets, as 'tis for an Alderman in the City of London, 
to be seen walking with a Groatsworth of Fresh-Herrings, from Bill- 
ings-Gate to his own House. 

There were formerly amongst them (as they themselves Report) 
abundance of Witches, and indeed I know not, but there may be as 
many now, for the men look still as if they were Hag-ridden ; and 
every Stranger, that comes into the Country, shall find they will Deal 
with him to this Day, as if the Devil were in 'em. 

Witchcraft they punish'd with Death, till they had Hang'd the best 
People in the Country ; and Convicted the Culprit upon a single Evi- 
dence : So that any prejudic'd person, who bore Malice against a 
neighbour, had an easie method of removing their Adversary. But 
since, upon better consideration, they have mitigated the severity of 
that unreasonable Law, there has not been one accused of Witchcraft, 
in the whole Country. 

(45) 



THOMAS STORY IN 1699 AND 1704. 

THOMAS Story was an itinerant Quaker preacher who came over 
from England in 1697 and between that year and 1708 visited 
all the colonies from New Hampshire to Carolina. The descrip- 
tion of his travels and labors in America occupies nearly three hun- 
dred pages of his "Journal" which is the largest book of travel in 
what is now the United States, up to the year 1708. He is particu- 
larly racy about the laws of Connecticut and Massachusetts. His 
book was published under the following title : — Journal of the Life of 
Thomas Story : Containing an Account of . . . his Embracing the Prin- 
ciples of Truth as held by the People called Quakers — His Travels in 
America . . . Newcastle upon Tyne, 1747. 

On the Second Day [July 1699] we went to Lynn; where, hearing 
of a Meeting appointed by our Friend Judadiah Allen, about two 
Miles thence, we went to it ; and lodged that night with our Friend 
Richard Estis, at Lynn : and had a Meeting the next Day after at 
Salem; and, that Night, lodged with our Friend Mathew Estis; and 
proceeded next Day to Hampton, . . . The next Day we had a Meet- 
ing at Salisbury : and there having been a Report, that the minister 
of the Place, one Major Pike, and one Joseph Ring (all great Opposers) 
intended to be there, it was very great : yet none of them came but 
Ring: who did not oppose, but slunk off towards the Conclusion : and 
the meeting was held, and concluded in Peace, and the blessed Truth 
was over all, ... On the 26th, I went towards Hampton, accom- 
panied by my kind friend Samuel Collins, of Lynn; and, as we were 
near Ipswich, one of his acquaintance, not a Friend, overtook, and in- 
vited us to his House ; where. Meat being set before us, I was con- 
cerned in Prayer before we ate, and they were well affected with it. 
. . . The next day had a meeting at the House of Joseph Paisley, in 
Haverhill: It was not large, by reason of the Throng of Harvest. . . . 

That Afternoon [May 3, 1704] we went to Lynn with Samuel Col- 
lins : where we staid that Night and the next Day ; and on the Sev- 
enth of the Week, the Fishermen being usually more at home on that 

(46) 



THOMAS STORY IN 1699 AND 1704. 47 

Day than any other of the Week-days, we had a Meeting at Marble- 
Head ; where there is not a Friend : The Meeting was pretty large, 
and the People sober. The Creation of Man, his first State of Inno- 
cence, his Fall, present State of Nature, and Restoration by Christ 
the Second Adam, were Subjects of the Testimony : and the divine 
Truth the good Dominion over the People ; who, after the Meeting, 
were loving, and behaved rather with awful Respect than light chear- 
fulness, or Familarity : and that Evening we returned to Lymt, . . . 
I remained at the House of our Friend Samuel Collins. 

On the 7th of the Month, being the Third of the Week, we were 
at a marriage at Salem, which had been delayed sometime on purpose ; 
but the Day proving very rainy and stormy, the meeting was not so 
large as otherwise it might have been ; but several of the People, of 
both Sexes, being there, were generally sober, and some broken in 
Heart. 

At Salem I remained until the 9th : and, being the Day of their 
Monthly Meeting, it was large ; several of the People being there, 
were well satisfied with the Testimony of Truth therein : and Lydia 
Norton, Mary Dow, Esther Palmer, and Susannah Freeborn, all living 
Ministers, came to that Meeting : The next Day we had a Meeting 
at Ipswich, where there were no Friends : It was indifferent large, 
several of the People tendered, and generally satisfied : some of them 
giving particular Demonstrations of it. ... that Afternoon we went 
forward to Newbury; and. Night coming on, I would have tarried there 
till the Morning, but there was no Provender to be had for my Horse 
so that I went over the great River with some Salisbury Friends, who 
had been at the Meeting ; and we went together to our Friend Henry 
Dow's, and lodged there, though it was in the Time of War, and not 
under the Protection of any Garrison. And several Persons having 
been killed a little before by the Indians, who were for the French 
against the English, I found the People in those Parts under great 
Fear and Danger ; and the Weight of their condition and Circum- 
stances came heavy upon me. 

The 11th I rested there ; and, in the Morning, went alone up a Hill, 
not far from the House, and stood upon a Stump of a Tree, where I 
could see to a Garrison, some Distance of ; and thought, in the mean 



48 THOMAS STORY IN 1699 AND 1704. 

time, that if any Indians were in Ambush there, I might be a fair 
mark for them to shoot at ; upon which I retired from thence and 
descended the Hill, and, near the Foot of it, sat down under the side 
of a Fence ; where my mind was sensibly filled with divine Goodness, 
which staid me there for some time ; and, when I returned, I found 
the Friends had been a little thoughtful where I could be, and that I 
staid so long ; and when I told them I had been on the Top of the 
same Hill, they informed me, that was the Place where the sculking 
Indians sometimes came, to spy for Advantages against the People, 
especially against the Inhabitants of the Garrison, if they could see 
any of them come out any Distance from it, as a Prey unto them who 
thirsted for their Blood. 

The same Day Henry Doiv gave notice in the Neighbourhood of my 
being come, of the Meeting to be next Day at the House of Thomas 
Nichols, in the upper Part of the Town. It was a tender Meeting, 
the minds of the People being low for fear of the Indians, their cruel 
Enemies, and by reason of the great Distress many were in otherwise 
on that Occasion. It was a dismal Time indeed in those Parts ; for 
no man knew, in an ordinary Way, when the Sun set that ever it 
would arise upon him more ; or, lying down to sleep, but his first 
waking might be in Eternity, by a Salutation in the Face with a 
Hatchet, or a Bullet from the Gun of a merciless Savage ; who, from 
Wrongs received, as they too justly say, from the Professors of Christ 
in New-England, are to this Day enraged, as Bears bereaved of their 
Cubs, sparing neither age nor sex : Nor are they capable of any In- 
treaty, but, on the contrary, by the Examples set them in the Destruc- 
tion of their Ancestors, by the pretended Massachusets christians, 
promising Life and Friendship, they frequently murder their Captives 
in cold Blood ; roasting some alive in Times of their Triumph and 
Merriment as Objects of their Revenge, Laughter and Scorn. 

The People in those Parts, at this Time, were generally in Garrisons 
in the Night-time ; and some professing Truth also went into the 
same with their Guns, and some without them ; But the faithful and 
true, trusting in the Lord, neither used Gun nor Garrison, Sword, 
Buckler, nor Spear ; the Lord alone being their strong Tower, . . . 
and that Night I lodged with Thomas Nichols. 



THOMAS STORY IN 1699 AND 1704. 49 

On the 13th we had a Meeting at Salisbury: where there was a 
Garrison in some Part of the Town, (for the People garrisoned any 
convenient House, in Town or Country, they thought most proper 
for a common Good and safety, as they reckon 'd) but I had not Lib- 
erty in myself to lodge near the Garrison that Night ; but, after 
somie Dispute with a Townsman, Brother-in-law to a Priest, returned, 
late in the Evening, to Henry Dow's, a place of as much seeming 
Danger as any, being within Pistol-shot of a great Swamp, and thicket, 
-where Indians formerly inhabited, and there I lodged ; where there was 
neither Gun nor Sword, nor any "Weapon of war, but Truth, Faith, 
the Fear of GOD, and Love, in a humble and resigned mind ; and there 
I rested with consolation. 

And here I think fit to remark a particular Passage, viz. The 
Mother of Henry Dow's wife, being a Friend of blameless Life, and 
living in this same House with them, let in Reasonings against their 
continuing in a place of so much apparent Danger, and frequently 
urged them to remove into the Town, where the Garrison was, that 
they might lodge there in the night for moral Safety, as many others, 
and some Friends did ; which her daughter could never be free to do, 
believing, that if they should let in any slavish Fear, or distrust in 
the Arm and Protection of the Lord, some very hard thing would 
befal them ; till at length her mother said to her, That if she could 
say she had the mind of the Lord against it, (being a minister, though 
young) she would rest satisfied ; but nothing else than that could 
balance so rational Fears in so obvious Danger : But the young 
Woman, being modest, cautious, and prudent, durst not assume pos- 
itively to place her Aversion to their Removal so high ; so at length 
she and her Husband complied with the mother, and they removed 
to the Town, to a House near the Garrison ; where the young Wom- 
an was constantly troubled with frightful surprizing Fears of the 
Indians : though, while at the House by the Swamp, she Vv^as free 
from it, and quiet. 

But the Mother, having left some small Things in the House by 
the swamp, was going early in the Morning to fetch them, and, by 
some Indians in Ambush near the Town in her way, was killed ; and 
the same morning, a young man, a Friend, and Tanner by Trade, 



50 THOMAS STORY IN 1699 AND 1704. 

going from the Town to his work, with a Gun in his Hand, and an- 
other with him without any, the Indians shot him who had the Gun, 
but hurt not the other ; and when they knew the young man they 
had killed was a Friend, they seemed sorry for it, but blamed him for 
carrying a Gun : For they knew the Quakers would not fight, nor 
do them any Harm ; and therefore, by carrying a Gun, they took him 
for an Enemy. 

And the Garrison and Neighbourhood, being alarmed by the Guns 
of the Indians, some Inhabitants of some few Houses near made such 
precipitate Haste thither, that they left a little Boy behind them, 
whose Brains the Indians dashed out against a Plough, and made 
Prey of as many Goods as they could carry with them. 

And, when the Town was alarmed, the young woman concluded 
her mother was slain, (but it was not by shot, but a Blow on the 
Head) but did not go into the Garrison, but took one of her children 
in each Hand, and went with them into a swamp, or thicket, full of 
Reeds, near the Place ; where all her tormenting Fear left her, and 
she was then greatly comforted and strengthened in the Presence of 
the Lord, and confirmed in her thoughts, that they should not have 
left their House for her mother's Fears, though reasonable in human 
View, seeing that consequence had attended ; after which she returned 
to her House by the Garrison with her children. 

The loss of the mother was much lamented by the Son and Daugh- 
ter, and others ; but, as soon as her body was interred, they went 
back with their little children to the same Place by the Swamp ; 
where I lodged with them when they gave me this Relation. 

On the 14th of the Third month, we had a Meeting at an Inn in 
Newbury : There were not many Friends there, but probably may be 
in due time ; for the Meeting was very large, and several Persons 
much broken under the testimony of the Truth. The Meeting con- 
tinuing long, and the River being between that Place and Salisbury, 
I went late that Night with Henry Dow and his Wife, and several 
Friends. . . . 

That Night [May 28th] I lodged again at Henry Dow's; and on the 
29th, I was at another appointed Meeting as Salisbury ; which was 
not large, but good and comfortable. 



THOMAS STORY IN 1699 AND 1704. 51 

On the 30th I was at their Week-day meeting aX Jamaica; which 
was pretty large, . . . 

On the 1st of the Fourth Month we had a Meeting at Henry Dow's; 
which was also comfortable and edifying, and several of the People 
much tendered ; But this Meeting also was hurt in the Beginning of 
it, by a forward Person, who prayed a long Sermon to the Almighty, 
with many Accusations in it against the People and their Ways. . . . 

On the 2d, being the Seventh of the Week, we went up to Haverell 
from Salisbury; and, the next Day, had a Meeting there; which, be- 
ing near the Presbyterian Meeting-house, several of them came to us 
in the Time between their Forenoon and Afternoon meetings, and 
some of them were affected and tendered, and others very sober and 
attentive to what was delivered ; who, desired by some of the ruder 
sort of their own Profession to leave us, they would not ; and then 
the others endeavoured to have them away by Force ; But the Lord 
gave us a good Meeting notwithstanding this Treatment : . . . That 
Night I went to Jamaica, and lodged with Thomas Nichols, parting 
with some Dover Friends in the Road near that Place. 

After this Meeting Jacob Moral of Salisbury informed me, that he 
had been with several Persons in that Town, in order to have a Meet- 
ing among them, but they generally refused ; the old Stock of Perse- 
cutors, still ruling there, being much against it ; but the younger 
People were, for the most part, for it : And that at last he had gone 
to one Major Pike, (an ancient man who had been very contentious, 
so that every mans Hand had been against him, and he against every 
Man) and desired his Consent that we might have a Meeting in their 
Meeting-house, to which the Major assented ; and said also, "That 
if we could not have their Meeting-house to meet at once, we should 
have his House ;" And accordingly Jacob Moral had given notice of 
a Meeting to be there the next Day. 

Both Friends and others went to the Place about the Tenth Hour 
next morning, and the Major seemed very open and free ; and Seats 
being ranged, and many People set down, all of a sudden, and with- 
out any Provocation, save from the Evil One in himself, the Major 
began to be very turbulent and abusive, saying, "Friends, if I may call 
you so, what is your business here ? What means all this Concourse 



52 THOMAS STORY IN 1699 AND 1704. 

of People?" To which. Jacob Moral answered, "We have come here 
to have a Meeting, according to the Liberty thou hast given us." 
Then said he, "You told me of a Man that had a Message from Heaven 
to the People ; which, if he hath, let him say on : but, for my Part, 
I did not expect such a multitude, neither did I intend any such Leave 
to such a People as ye are." Then he gave us much ill and abusive 
Language, saying, "We were led by the Spirit of the Devil." At length 
I stood up and told him, "That I was the Person intended in what had 
been said." . . . Then Jacob Moral cleared the matter, affirming in 
the audience of the People, "That he never said any thing of a Message 
from Heaven, but only that a travelling Friend, in the Love of GoD, 
had a mind to see them in a Meeting ; which the Major had given 
Leave should be there in his House." 

Notwithstanding this, the Major persisted in his Abuses, alledging 
that Scripture against us, and applying it unduly. Try the Spirits, be- 
lieve not every Spirit, &c. I asked him, . . . This made the old Per- 
secutor mad with Rage for a time, and he began to rub up his old 
rusty Tools of Persecution, asking me whence I came ? and threatened 
to order me into Custody : ... And so we went out, leaving him 
foaming and silent in his chair. 

I went then immediately into the Street ; where, seeing a Parcel of 
Logs of wood near the Side of a House, I went in and asked the woman 
of the House (the Goodman being absent) Leave to set the Logs in 
order, and sit upon them ; and she was very willing, and said, "The 
Street is free for all ; and as for the Logs ye cannot hurt them, use 
them at Pleasure," And, besides these, we procured some Deal-boards, 
and other things fit for seats, and sat down in the open Street by the 
House-side ; which proved a far more convenient Place than the Ma- 
jor's House, for a multitude of People came thither ; and though some 
were very light, airy and rude, most of them were sober, and several 
tender, I had a large time in Testimony among them. . . . Dur- 
ing all this Time the People were generally attentive, and seemingly 
pleased ; but just at the Close of the matter, I was attacked, all of a 
sudden, by a jolly, brisk Person, who brake into the Crowd behind 
me on Horseback, and, by his Garb, look'd like a Pastor of the People, 
(and, upon Enquiry afterwards, I found he was so) whose first Salu- 



THOMAS STORY IN 1699 AND 1704. 53 

tation was after this Manner : "Are you not ashamed thus to delude 
the People, imposing upon them false Glosses on the Scripture ? I 
am a Stranger on the Road, and drawing near this multitude to know 
the Occasion of it, cannot but appear in defence of Truth." . . . 
Then he, wheeling his Horse about, said, "He could stay no longer :" 
and, in turning of his Horse, he prov'd resty, and ran back upon a 
Log, and his hinder Parts fell down, (which some would have a Judg- 
ment upon him :) but the Priest being a brisk nimble Man, kept upon 
his Back, and had no Harm, but rode hastily out of the crowd, and 
went off. ... It was now near Night, and began to rain : and, with 
some other Friends, I took Horse and rode to Henry Dow's. [On the 
5th of June, Thomas Story went to Haverhill where he visited the 
minister. Rev. Benjamin Rolfe, and engaged in a theological contro- 
versy which he records in much detail. He describes the "priest" as 
looking very surly, haughty and illnatured and mentions a fast re- 
cently appointed because of the cold and backward Spring season, 
the danger of Indian attack, "several of the Inhabitants of that Town 
having been some time before killed, and others (about nineteen in 
all) taken captives by those Savages," and lastly, against the prevail- 
ing of the Quakers, several of his congregation having left him not 
long before. "But mark the end of this ignorant and envious man : 
For (as I have been assured since) there came a Party of Indians to 
that Town, and before the dawning of the Day, placing themselves 
two at least at each Door of every House, and knocking softly as if 
they had been Neighbours, as soon as any open'd the Doors, the 
Indians rushed in and killed the first they met with their Hatchets, 
and then the rest, and many of them in their Beds : and this Teacher 
happening to be one who open'd his Door at this Time, an Indian 
killed him with a Hatchet ; at which I did not rejoice when I was in- 
formed of it, though I could not but remember his Fast and Prayers." 
From Haverhill, Thomas Story went to Salem, Marble-Head and Lynn. 
At Salem he heard that the local "priest" had been "railing against 
Truth and us in his preachment ; whereby he had offended several 
of the more sober sort of his Hearers." At Cambridge, a few days 
later, he held a meeting under an oak before the College buildings 
at which Samuel Gaskin of Salem, "stood up first."] 



JOHN HIGGINSON IN 1700. 

JOHN Higginson lived in Salem where he was "a considerable 
merchant" and held many public offices. Three times deputy 
from Salem to the General Court, he became a member of the 
Governor's Council in 1700 and continued in that office until his death 
in 1719. He also was a Justice of the Court of Common Pleas and 
Colonel of the local troop. The following account of the com- 
mercial conditions in New England in 1700 is abstracted from a letter 
that he wrote on August 29, 1700, to his brother Nathaniel and which 
was printed in the Collections of the Massachusetts Historical Society, 
3d Series, Volume VII (1838). Nathaniel Higginson was graduated 
at Harvard College in 1670 and four years later went to England. 
In 1683, he went to Madras, in the service of the East India Company 
where, in 1692, became Governor. 

... I now come to answer your question : 1st, you say "may a 
stock of 5 or 10 thousand pounds be employed ?" I answer, the trade 
of New England is large. We trade to all parts where the law doth 
not prohibit. Our principal commodities are dry merchandise, cod- 
fish fit for the markets of Spaine, Portugal, the Straits, also refuse 
dry fish, mackerel, lumber, horses and provision for the West Indies ; 
the effects whereof mostly return for England. The returnes made 
directly hence for England, are chiefly sugar, molasses, cotton-wool, 
logwood and brazilla-wood ; for which, we are beholden to the West 
Indies. Of our owne produce, we have a considerable quantity of 
whale and other fish-oyles, whale bone, furrs, deer, elk and bear skins ; 
which are usually sent for England. We have also silver, lead, and 
copper mines ; but, for want of artists, there has been little got out 
of them. In all or any of which, a man may employ his money. 

2d. "Whether 2 ships can be employed constantly between Eng- 
land and New England with that stock, and of what burden ?" I ans- 
wer ; 2 ships may be employed with the stock of a 100 tons or more ; 
but here is much shipping, freight very low, and it is a query wheth- 
er you had not better ship upon freight, than either hire or owne 

(54) 



JOHN HIGGINSON IN 1700. 55 

vessels. The factor here may always have freight when he can pro- 
vide it. 

3d. "How many trips can one ship make, in one year, between 
England and New England, and what are the proper seasons of voy- 
aging ?" I answer, It is possible for a ship to make two trips in a 
year, but it is seldom done. The season for voyaging is almost all 
the year ; the dead of winter most difficult to come on this coast ; the 
best time between April and November. 

4th. "How many Barbadoes, Jamaica, Virginia, and other places 
in the West Indies or in Europe, be made use of in carrying on a trade 
between England and New England ? Please to name the corres- 
pondent whom you have employed, or known, in any such place." I 
answer, that Barbadoes, Jamaica, Virginia, and other places in the 
West Indies, are very proper to be made use of in making returns for 
England, of their commodities, the more advantageous than direct 
from hence. For instance, molasses has been this year at 12d a gal- 
lon, besides the charge of casks, &c., in Barbadoes; and much mo- 
lasses, which has been shipped of hence for England, cost here 2s a 
gallon; besides other charges of commission, cooperage, &c. The 
freight from Barbadoes being much the same as from hence, I judge 
it more advantageous to have returns of that kind from Barbadoes, 
than from New England ; sugar and cotton are much the same. Places 
proper in Europe to make returns to England from, and are much 
improved for that end, from hence, are Bilboa, Cadiz, Oporto, and 
the Streights ; where the markets are variable, according to the plenty 
or scarcity of the commodities. For correspondents in Barbadoes, 
I have had business with Mr. William Adams and his brother Conrad 
Adams. William served his time in this towne with Major Browne ; 
has now married a good fortune in Barbadoes, and understands busi- 
ness well, and is a faithful man. His brother Conrad lived some time 
in this towne, is now at Barbadoes, a worthy man. If anything con- 
siderable should be sent that way, it may be best to consign them in 
partnership for France and Leward Islands. I know none there ; but 
here is one John Bradstreet, son of Doctor Samuel Bradstreet, about 
24 years old, who served his time with Moses Byfield and Mico ; who 
has an estate in Jamaica, and is going this fall to settle there, whom 



56 JOHN HIGGINSON IN 1700. 

I would commend to you, if you have occasion to send thither. At 
Jamaica, are sugar and log- wood for returns, and other things, peices 
of eight, &c., for Bilboa, Couzin Hayler can inform you. 

5th. "Whether Salem or Boston be the best place for trade ?" 
Answer, Boston, in some respects, Salem in others. Both well im- 
proved, may do well. 

6th. "If Boston, whether you can manage business at Boston 
while you reside at Salem ?" For answer thereunto, I would propound 
to your consideration, that I have a son whose name is Nathaniel, 
now at prentice with Mr. Benjamin Browne, who has given his master 
great satisfaction in his service ; is twenty one years of age the 1st 
of April next ; and then out of his time. I intend, God willing, he 
shall wait upon you by the first ship after he is out of his time, and 
hope he will be very capable of business, being bred up a Salem mer- 
chant, and went to the Latin school till he was fourteen years old. 
Now if any business considerable should happen, I do propound that 
my son Nat., should live at Boston, and manage a warehouse there, 
and what goods may be proper for our trade at Salem, I would man- 
age here, and should be often also at Boston, to oversee and assist 
there ; also my eldest son John, whom I brought up at home, is very 
capable of business, a very hopeful young man as any in our towne, 
sober and judicious. . . . 

I would further propound my opinion, that considering that money 
is of late grown so exceeding scarce amongst us, that the making of 
returns for England, by the way of Barbadoes, Leeward Islands, Bil- 
boa, Oporto, Cadiz, and Isle of Wight, would be more easy and safe 
than direct for England ; and it's probable, more advantageous ; be- 
cause, money being scarce, and returns direct, difficult to be got, 
debts must be contracted to procure money, which will be hardly got 
in, whereas, a man may sell more goods, and better get in his debts 
more speedily and certainly ; for barter of goods for those markets, 
than direct. 



REV. GEORGE KEITH IN 1702. 

THIS is an account of the observations of a man more interested 
in religious doctrines than in the natural features of the country 
through which he passed and therefore the following abstracts 
have value only as touching upon men rather than things. George 
Keith was born in Aberdeen, Scotland, and becoming a Quaker suffered 
confiscation and imprisonment. He came to America in 1684 and 
became a surveyor in New Jersey and afterwards taught school in 
Philadelphia, where he became involved in disputes with his sect. 
Returning to England he was ordained in the Church of England, 
and in 1702 was sent to America by the Society for Propagating the 
Gospel in Foreign Parts. His journeyings were published in a vol- 
ume under the following title : A Journal of Travels from New-Hamp- 
shire to Caratuck on the Continent of North- America, London, 1706. 

July 8, July 9, Thursday. I went from Boston to Linn, accom- 
panied with Mr. Talbot, and the next day, being the Quakers Meeting 
day, we visited there, having first called at a Quaker's House, who was 
of my former acquaintance. Mr. Shepherd the Minister of Linn did also 
accompany us, but the Quakers, though many of them had been 
formerly Members of his Church, were very abusive to him, as they 
were unto us. After some time of silence, I stood up and began to 
speak, but they did so interrupt with their Noise and Clamour against 
me, that I could not proceed, though I much entreated them to hear 
me ; So I sat down and heard their Speakers one after another utter 
abundance of falsehoods and impertinencies and gross perversions of 
many Texts of the Holy Scripture. After their Speakers had done, 
they hasted to be gone ; I desired them to stay, and I would shew 
them that they had spoke many f alshoods, and perverted many places 
of Scripture, but they would not stay to hear. But many of the 
People staid, some of them Quakers, and others who were not Quakers 
but disaffected to the Quakers Principles. I asked one of their Preach- 
ers before he went away, seeing they Preached so much the suf- 
ficiency of the Light within to Salvation, (without any thing else) did 

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58 REV. GEORGE KEITH IN 1702. 

the Light within teach him without Scripture, that our Blessed Sav- 
iour was born of a Virgin, and died for our Sins, etc. He replyed, 
If he said it did, I would not believe him, and therefore he would not 
answer me. 

After their Speakers were gone, I went up into the Speakers Gallery, 
where they used to stand and Speak, and I did read unto the People 
that staid to hear me, Quakers and others, many Quotations out of 
Edw. Burroughs's Folio Book, detecting his vile Errors, who yet was 
one of their chief Authors, particularly in Page 150, 151. where he 
renders it the Doctrine of Salvation that's only necessary to be preached, 
viz. Christ within, and that he is a Deceiver that exhorts People for Sal- 
vation to any other thing than the Light within ; as appears by his sev- 
eral Queries in the Pages cited. And where he saith, Page 273, that 
the Sufferings of the People of God in this Age {meaning the Quakers) 
are greater Sufferings, and more Unjust, than those of Christ and the 
Apostles ; what was done to Christ, or to the Apostles, was chiefly done 
by a Law, and in great part by the due execution of a Law. But all this 
a noted Quaker, whose name I spare to mention, (as I generally in- 
tend to spare the mentioning of their Names) did boldly defend. But 
another Quaker who stood by, confessed the last Passage in render- 
ing the Quakers Sufferings greater and more unjust than the Suffer- 
ings of Christ, was not well worded, but to excuse it, said, we must 
not make a Man an offender for a word. 

July 19, Sunday. Mr. Talbot Preached at Salisbury in the Forenoon, 
and I Preached there in the Afternoon, on Philip 2, 13, where we had 
a great Auditory, and well affected, as also we had the like at Hamp- 
ton. The occasion of our having so great an Auditory both at Hamp- 
ton and at Salisbury was this, as some of them told us, that they had 
been inform'd concerning us, that We being Ministers of the Church of 
England, we would Preach down-right Popery to our Hearers; But (said 
they) we came the rather to hear you, to know whether we could 
hear any Popery Preached by you ; but indeed, (said they which were 
the most Judicious, and most Ancient among them,) Praised be God 
we heard no Popish Doctrine Preached by any of you, but good sound Prot- 
estant Doctrine, the same which we have heard our Ministers of New- 
England Preach to us, and which to our great comfort we have believed 



REV. GEORGE KEITH IN 1702. 59 

these Forty Years past, and we still continue to believe. We replied, we 
were very glad to find that they were of the same Faith with the 
Church of England, in these great Fundamentals of the Christian 
Religion. . . . 

July 25, 1702. We arrived at Salem, and had intended to have 
visited the Quakers at their Meeting there, the next Day, but we were 
informed that they had removed their Meeting for that Day from 
Salem to another Place, of which we could have no notice, though we 
made enquiry. . . . 

July 28. In our way from Salem to Boston, as we stayed some 
Hours at the Ferry by Newberry, I had much discourse with a sober 
Carpenter who was a Quaker, his Name was William Clement. He 
did readily confess to the Fundamentals of the Christian Faith, con- 
cerning our blessed Saviour ; but had some dispute with me about 
Baptism, and by the Discourse I had there with him, seemed to be 
much convinced that it was his Duty to have his Children Baptized, 
as he had been himself, in Infancy, and had a Resolution to have it 
done. 



JOHN OLDMIXON IN 1708. 

THIS English author is supposed to have visited America but 
some authorities incline to the belief that his book was com- 
piled by Herman Moll, the cartographer. The dedication, how- 
ever, is signed by Oldmixon who was the author of many plays, poems 
and historical and critical writings. He died in London in 1742. A 
second edition of his geographical work was published in 1741 and 
both editions were translated and published in Germ-any. The text 
bears evidence of a certain amount of compilation from earlier printed 
works and inaccuracies appear ; in fact, one critic says of the book 
that "it contains almost as many errors as pages, and unsupported 
is not to be trusted." It was published in two volumes under the 
following title : The British Empire in America, Containing the His- 
tory of the Discovery, Settlement, Progress, and Present State of the Brit- 
ish Colonies on the Continent and Islands of America, London, 1708. 

Salem is the chief Town of this County, situated on the Northern 
Branch of the Charles River. Here is one of the best built churches 
in the Country : but it was put to a very ill Use in the Time of the 
Witch Plague, being generally the place of Meeting for the Witch 
Judges, when they began the Prosecutions of the poor Women, who 
were put to Death as witches ; more were hang'd here than in all 
Neiv-England besides. It broke out in the House of the Minister here, 
Mr. Paris, whose Daughter was a main Evidence against them, hav- 
ing been frequently under the Power of Witchcraft, which her Father 
contributed very much to the Belief of. The Town is situated in a 
Plain, between two Rivers, and has two Harbours, Winter Harbour and 
Summer Harbour. Here the Planters of the Massachusets Colony made 
their first Settlement, and a very good Trade is driven to Barbados and 
the Sugar Islands. It has a Market every Wednesday, and two Fairs in 
the Year, the last Wednesday in May, and the last Wednesday in Septem- 
ber. The inferior Court is kept here the last Tuesday in June, and Decem- 
ber, and the superior the second Tuesday in November. Northward of 
Salem is the high Promontory Trabigzando, now called Cape Ann, a 

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JOHN OLDMIXON IN 1708. 61 

Place for fishing, and a Harbour for ships. A Httle higher is Ipswich, 
a large Town, situated by the side of a fine River. The inferior 
Court is kept here the last Tuesday in March, and the superior the 
third Tuesday in May. Lyn is a Market-Town, and I was surprised 
to read in Mr. Neal, that there's hardly any Town in the Country 
that has a market ; for the Accounts we have met with of it name 
many Towns with Markets, and the days on which they are kept. 
Lyn is situated at the Bottom of a Bay, near a River, which on the 
breaking up of the Winter, empties itself with a rapid Torrent into the 
Sea. At the Mouth of the River Merrimack stands Newbury, pleas- 
antly situated, where Abundance of Sturgeon are taken, and pickled 
after the manner used in the Baltick. The Society for propagating 
the Gospel according to the Church of England, have a missionary 
here, to whom they allow 60/. a Year. If the Design is to convert 
the Indians to Christianity, 'tis very pious and laudable, if only to 
convert the Pesbyterian, the Society allowing them to be already 
Christians, what is wanting to their Salvation ? If it is to foment 
Division for indifferent Matters, to support Bigotry and Animosity, 
'tis a pretty long way the Missionary goes for it, and I am afraid his 
Errand is not so necessary as a Mission among the Hurons and Iro- 
quois would be. On the other side of the Merrimack, over-against 
Newbury, is Salisbury, where there is a Ferry ; the River between the 
two Towns being half a Mile over, as broad as the Thames at Graves- 
end. Four Miles Southward of Salem is Marblehead, where there is 
another Missionary, who is not of the Religion as by Law establish'd 
in this Country. The above-mention'd Society allow him 50/. a Year. 
Both these Allowances are very handsom, and much more inviting 
than many a Welsh Curacy, which, however, the greatest Part of our 
Academists would prefer to the New-England Mission. 

The Soil of Essex County is not very fertile except it be near the 
Sea Coast, where the Towns are built for the Convenience of Fishing. 
The River Merrimack, which waters it, is barr'd in some Places, or it 
would be navigable up very high within Land. 



REV. JOHN BARNARD IN 1714. 

THIS description relates only to one town — Marblehead, but it 
is so vivid that it must not be overlooked. Rev. John Barnard 
was born in Boston in 1681 and after assisting Dr. Coleman 
of the Brattle Street Church and serving as Chaplain in the expedi- 
tions against Port Royal in 1707, he preached as a candidate in several 
pulpits and at last become the assistant of Rev. Samuel Cheever at 
Marblehead and there he remained for the rest of his life. He must 
have been a fine type of the dignified old-time minister for in the dis- 
course preached at his funeral it was said — "His presence restrained 
every imprudent sally of youth, and when the aged saw him they 
arose and stood up." The following is reprinted from an autobio- 
graphical account printed in Collections of the Massachusetts Historical 
Society, 3d Series, Volume V. (1836) 

When I first came, [in 1714] there were two companies of poor, 
smoke-dried, rude, ill-clothed men, trained to no military discipline 
but that of "whipping the snake," as they called it ; whereas now, 
[in 1766] and for years past, we are a distinct regiment, consisting 
of seven full companies, well clad, of bright countenances, vigorous 
and active men, so well trained in the use of their arms, and the var- 
ious motions and marches, that I have heard some Colonels of other 
regiments, and a Brigadier General say, they never saw throughout 
the country, not in their own regiment, no, nor in Boston, so goodly 
an appearance of spirited men, and so well exercised a regiment. 

When I came, there was not so much as one proper carpenter, nor 
mason, nor tailor, nor butcher in the town, nor any thing of a market 
worth naming ; but they had their houses built by country workmen, 
and their clothes made out of town, and supplied themselves with 
beef and pork from Boston, which drained the town of its money. 
But now we abound in artificers, and some of the best, and our mar- 
kets large, even to a full supply. And, what above all I would re- 
mark, there was not so much as one foreign trading vessel belonging 
to the town, nor for several years after I came into it ; though no 
town had really greater advantages in their hands. The people con- 

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REV. JOHN BARNARD IN 1714. 63 

tented themselves to be the slaves that digged in the mines, and left 
the merchants of Boston, Salem, and Europe, to carry away the gains; 
by which means the town was always in dismally poor circumstances, 
involved in debt to the merchants more than they were worth ; nor 
could I find twenty families in it that, upon the best examination, 
could stand upon their own legs ; and they were generally as rude, 
swearing, drunken, and fighting a crew, as they were poor. Where- 
as, not only are the public ways vastly mended, but the manners of 
the people greatly cultivated ; and we have many gentlemenlike and 
polite families, and the very fishermen generally scorn the rudenesses 
of the former generation. 

I soon saw that the town had a price in its hands, and it was a pity 
they had not a heart to improve it. I therefore laid myself out to 
get acquaintance with the English masters of vessels, that I might 
by them be let into the mystery of the fish trade, and in a little time 
I gained a pretty thorough understanding in it. When I saw the 
advantages of it, I thought it my duty to stir up my people, such as 
I thought would barken to me, and were capable of practising upon 
the advice, to send the fish to market themselves, that they might 
reap the benefit of it, to the enriching themselves, and serving the 
town. But, alas ! I could inspire no man with courage and resolution 
enough to engage in it, till I met with Mr. Joseph Swett, a young 
man of strict justice, great industry, enterprising genius, quick ap- 
prehension, and firm resolution, but of small fortune. To him I opened 
myself fully, laid the scheme clearly before him, and he hearkened 
unto me, and wise enough to put it in practise. He first sent a small 
cargo to Barbadoes. He soon found he increased his stock, built ves- 
sels, and sent the fish to Europe, and prospered in the trade, to the 
enriching of himself ; and some of his family, by carrying on the 
trade, have arrived at large estates. The more promising young 
men of the town soon followed his example ; that now we have be- 
tween thirty and forty ships, brigs, snows, and topsail schooners en- 
gaged in foreign trade. From so small a beginning the town has 
risen into its present flourishing circumstances, and we need no for- 
eigner to transport our f:sh, but are able ourselves to send it all to 
the market. 



DR. ALEXANDER HAMILTON IN 1744. 

DOCTOR Hamilton was a Scotchman who had learned pharmacy 
in Edinburgh and came to Annapolis, Maryland, where he set 
up the practice of medicine. After a severe illness he under- 
took a journey through the Colonies with the hope of benefitting his 
health and during that time kept a journal descriptive of his move- 
ments and the country through which he passed. Shortly after re- 
turning to Annapolis he presented this journal to an Italian gentle- 
man, Onorio Razolini, who was visiting America and in whose family 
the manuscript remained until the beginning of the twentieth century 
when it passed into the hands of booksellers and eventually became 
the property of Mr. William K. Bixby of St. Louis, Missouri, who 
published it privately under the following title : Hamilton's Itinerarium, 
being a Narrative of a Journey from Annapolis, Maryland, though Dela- 
ware, Pennsylvania, New York, New Jersey, Connecticut, Rhode Island, 
Massachusetts and New Hampshire, from May to September, 1 744, St. 
Louis, 1907. 

Mystic — Lynn 

Departing Charlestown I passed thro' Mystic at ten o'clock, a pretty 
large village, about four miles northeast from Boston. A little after 
twelve I passed thro' Lynn, another village, but very scattered, and 
standing upon a large compass of ground, the situation very open 
and pleasant. Here I could have a view of the sea upon my right 
hand, and upon my left a large open hilly and rocky country with 
some skirts of woods, which seemed to be but low and of a small 
growth. 

Marblehead 

At one o'clock I arrived at Marblehead, a large fishing town, lying 
upon the sea coast, built upon a rock, and standing pretty bleak to 
the easterly winds from the sea. It lies eighteen miles northeast from 
Boston, and is somewhat larger than Albany, but not so neatly or 
compactly built, the houses being all of wood and the streets very 

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DR. ALEXANDER HAMILTON IN 1744. 65 

uneven, narrow, and irregular. It contains about 5,000 inhabitants 
and their commodity is fish. There is round the town above 200 
acres of land covered with fish-flakes, upon which they dry their cod. 
There are ninety fishing sloops always employed, and they deal for 
£34,000 sterling prime cost value in fish yearly, bringing in 30,000 
quintals, — a quintal being one hundredweight dried fish, which is 
3,000,000 pounds weight, a great quantity of that commodity. 

I put up here at one Ried's at the sign of the Dragon, and while I 
was at dinner, Mr Malcolm,* the Church of England minister to 
whom I was recommended, came in. 

After I had dined he carried me round the town, and showed me 
the fish-flakes, and the town battery, which is built upon a rock, nat- 
urally well fortified, and mounts about twelve large guns. We had 
a great deal of talk about affairs at home. I went to his house and 
drank tea with him. 

He showed me some pretty pieces of music, and played some tunes 
on the flute and violin. He is author of a very good book upon music, 
which shows his judgment and knowledge in that part of Science. 

Sunday, July 29th. — This morning inquiring for my portmanteau, 
I was told by my man Dromo that it was in his room. I had the 
curiosity to go and see what kind of a room his room was, and upon 
a reconnoitre found it a most spacious one, furnished a la mode de 
cabaret, with tables, chairs, a fine feather-bed with quilted counter- 
pane, white calico canopy or tester, and curtains, every way adapted 
for a gentleman of his degree and complexion. 

I went to church to hear Mr. Malcolm in the forenoon, who gave 
us a pretty discourse. This church is a building of wood, about 
eighty feet square, supported in the inside with eight large octagonal 
wooden pillars of the Doric order. Upon this church stands a steeple 
in which there is a public clock. The floor of the church is raised 
six or seven feet above the ground, and under it is a burying place. 

The pulpit and alter are neat enough, the first being set out with 
a cushion of red velvet, and the other painted and adorned with the 
King's arms at top. There is one large gallery facing the pulpit, op- 
posite to which at the south entry of the church hangs a pretty large 

*Rev. Alexander Malcolm, rector of St. Michael's Church (1740-1749) who re- 
signed and removed to Maryland. 



66 DR. ALEXANDER HAMILTON IN 1744. 

gilt candle branch. The congregation consists of about 400 people. 
I dined with Mr. Malcolm, and went to church again with him in 
the afternoon, and spent the evening agreeably in his company. In 
this town are likewise two great Presbyterian meetings. 

Salem 

Monday, July 30th. — Mr. Malcolm and I set out at eleven o'clock 
in the morning for Salem, which is a pretty town about five miles 
from Marblehead, going round a creek, but not above two if you 
cross the creek. We arrived there betwixt twelve and one o'clock, 
and called at Justice Sewell's,* who invited us to dine with him. We 
put up our horses at the Ship Tavern, and went to Mr. Sewell's. 

Our conversation ran upon the enthusiasm now prevalent in these 
parts, and the strange madness that had possessed some people at 
Ipswitch, occasioned by one Woodberry, a mad enthusiast, who, pre- 
tending to inspiration, uttered several blasphemous and absurd 
speeches, asserting that he was the same today, yesterday, and for- 
ever, saying he had it in his power to save or damn whom he pleased, 
falling down upon the ground, licking the dust, and condemning all 
to hell who would not do the like, drinking healths to King Jesus, 
the self-existing Being, and prosperity to the kingdom of heaven, and 
a thousand other such mad and ridiculous frolics. I was quite 
shocked at these relations, both when I heard them mentioned in 
conversation, and saw them published in the newspaper, being sur- 
prised that some of the chief clergy there had been so weak as to be 
drawn away by these follies. This is a remarkable instance to what 
lengths of madness enthusiasm will carry men once they give it a 
loose [rein], and tho' these excursions may appear shocking to people 
in their senses, yet so much good may follow them as that the interest 
and influence of these fanatic preachers will be thereby depressed 
among all such people as are not quite fools or mad. 

These extravagancies take all their first root from the labours of 
that righteous apostle Whitefield, who, only for the sake of private 
lucre and gain, sowed the first seeds of distraction in these unhappy 
ignorant parts. 

♦Stephen Sewall (1704-1760), Harvard College, 1721. Judge of the Superior 
Court of Judicature and Chief Justice from 1752 until his death. He was the son 
of Major Stephen Sewall who was the clerk of the witchcraft court. 



DR. ALEXANDER HAMILTON IN 1744. 67 

In the afternoon Mr. Malcolm and I rid to the country-seat of one 
Brown,* a gentleman who married a daughter of the late Governour 
Burnets', a grand-daughter of the bishops'. His house stands upon 
the top of a high hill, and is not yet quite finished. It is built in the 
form of an H, with a middle body and two wings. 

The porch is supported by pillars of the Ionic order about fifteen 
feet high, and betwixt the windows of the front are pilasters of the 
same. The great hall or parlour is about forty feet long and twenty 
five wide, with a gallery over the first row of windows, and there are 
two large rooms upon a floor in each of the wings about twenty-five 
feet square. 

From this hill you have a most extensive view. To the southwest 
you see the Blue Hills, about thirty-six miles distance ; to the east 
the sea and several islands ; to the northwest the top of a mountain 
called Wachusett Mountain, like a cloud, about ninety miles distance, 
towards Albany ; and all round you have a fine landscape, covered 
with woods, a mixture of hills and valleys, land and water, upon 
which variety the eye dwells with pleasure. This hill Mr. Brown 
calls Mount Burnet in compliment to his wife. 

In the hall I saw a piece ot tapestry or arras of scripture history, 
done by Vanderbank, a Dutch artist. For elegance and design it is 
like painting, the passions in the faces being well expressed. It is 
the best of the kind ever I saw. 

This gentleman has a fine estate, but withal has the character of 
being narrow and avaricious, a vice uncommon to young men. He 
has a strange taste for theological controversy. While we were there 
the conversation turned chiefly upon nice metaphysical distinctions 
relating to original sin, imputed righteousness, reprobation, effectual 
calling, and absolute decrees, which stuff — as I esteem it to be no more 
than the monstruous and deformed offspring of scholastic, theological 
heads — I should choose to hear at no other times but when I took a 

*Hon. William Browne (1709-1763), whose county seat in Beverly was popularly 
known as "Browne's Folly," a name afterwards applied to the hill on which it was 
built. He was a Justice of the Court of General Sessions and died suddenly while 
about his fields in Beverly. A reservior supplying water to the city of Salem 
now occupies the crest of this hill. For a full account of "Browne's Folly" and 
its owner see Essex Institute Historical Collections, Vol. 31, page 205. 



68 DR. ALEXANDER HAMILTON IN 1744. 

cathartic or emetic, in order to promote the operation if it proved too 
sluggish. 

Mr. Malcolm and I returned to Salem a little before eight o'clock, 
and went to the Ship Tavern, where we drank punch and smoaked 
tobacco with several colonels ; for colonels, captains, and majors are 
so plenty here that they are to be met v.dth in all companies, and yet 
methinks they look no more like soldiers than they look like divines ; 
but they are gentlemen of the place, and that is sufficient. 

We went to Mr. Sewell's lodging betwixt nine and ten at night, 
and after some chat with him went to bed. 

The town of Salem is a pretty place, being the first settled place 
in New England. In it there is one Church of England, one Quaker 
meeting, and five Presbyterian meetings. It consists of one very long 
street, running nearly east and west. 

Upon the watch-house,* is a grenadier, carved in wood, shoulder- 
ing his piece. 

Salem Ferry — Ipswitch 

Tuesday, July 31st. — At eleven o'clock this morning Mr. Malcolm 
accompanied me to Salem Ferry, where I crossed, and rid a pleasant 
level road all they way to Ipswitch, where the houses are so thick 
planted that it looks like one continued village. I put up at one 
Howel's in Ipswitch, at the sign of the Armed Knight. I waited up- 
on Mr. John Rogers,t the minister there, and delivered him a packet 
of letters from his son at Annapolis. 

I returned again to the tavern and there met a talkative old fellow, 
who was very inquisitive about my place of abode and occupation, 
as he called it. 

He frequently accosted me with please your honour, with which 
grand title, like some fools whom I know, I seemed highly pleased, 
tho' I was conscious it did not belong to me. When I told him I 
came from Maryland he said he had frequently read of that place, 

*The watch house formerly stood in Town House Square, in the middle of what 
is now Washington Street. It was erected in 1712 and was little more than a 
large sentry box. The life-size figure of a grenadier bore on its breast the legend 
"Anne Regina, 1712." 

tRev. John Rogers died the next year. He had been minister of the Ipswich 
church since 1688. His portrait is at the Essex Institute, Salem. 



DR. ALEXANDER HAMILTON IN 1744. 69 

but never had seen it. This old fellow, by his own account, had read 
of everything, but had seen nothing. He affected being a scholar, 
or a man much given to reading or study, and used a great many 
hard words in discourse, which he generally misapplied. There was 
likewise a young man in company, who rid with me some miles on 
my way to Newberry. He valued himself much upon the goodness 
of his horse, and said that he was a prime beast as ever went upon 
four legs or wore hoofs. He told me he had a curiosity to ride to 
Maryland, but was afraid of the terrible woods in the way, and asked 
me if there were not a great many dangerous wild beasts in these 
woods. I told him that the most dangerous wild beasts in these woods 
were shaped exactly like men, and they went by the name of Buck- 
skins, or Bucks, tho' they were not Bucks either, but something, as 
it were, betwixt a man and a beast. 

"Bless us! you don't say so," says he ; "then surely you had needs 
ride with guns" (meaning my pistols). I parted with this wiseacre. 
When I had got about half way to Newberry, a little farther I met a 
fat sheep driving in a chaise, a negro sitting upon the box. I asked 
the negro if that was his master. 

He told me no, but that it was a wether belonging to Mr. Jones, 
who had strayed and would not come home without being carried. 
Passing by this prodigy I met another, which was two great fat women 
riding upon one horse. 

I arrived at Newbury at seven o'clock, and put up at one Choat's 
at the sign of the Crown, which is a good house. Newbury is a pretty 
large village, lying close upon the water ; the houses are chiefly wood. 
In this town there is one handsome meeting built in a square form, 
with a spire or steeple upon which is a little neat publick clock. 

Newbury Ferry — Hampton 

Wednesday, August 1st. — This morning proved very rainy, and 
therefore I did not set out till eleven o'clock. 

I crossed Newbury Ferry, and rid a pleasant even road, only some- 
what stony, and in a perpetual drizzle, so that I could not have an 
advantageous view of the country round me. At half an hour after 
one I passed thro' Hampton, a very long, scattered town. . . . 



70 dr. alexander hamilton in 1744. 

Newbury Ferry 

[August 3d] Near Newbury Ferry I met an old man, who was very 
inquisitive about news. He rid above a mile with me. I crossed the 
ferry at twelve o'clock, and dined at Choat's with two Boston gentle- 
men, and after dinner they would have had me go to the Presbyter- 
ian meeting to hear a sermon, but I declined it, and getting upon 
horseback departed Newbury at three in the afternoon, the day being 
pretty hot. 

Some miles from this town I passed thro' a pleasant small plain 
about a quarter of a mile broad, thro' the middle of which runs a 
pretty winding river. On the way I met a young sailor on foot who 
kept pace with my horse, and he told me he was bound for Salem 
that night. He entertained me with his adventures and voyages, 
and dealt much in the miraculous, according to the custom of most 
travellers and sailors. I arrived at Ipswitch at six o'clock and put 
up at Howell's. I went to see Mr. Rogers, the minister there, and at 
night drank punch with his son, the doctor. 

Salem Ferry 

Saturday, August 4th. — I left Ipswich early in the morning, and 
had a solitary ride to Salem. I put up my horses there at the Ship 
Tavern and called at Messr's Sewell's and Brown's, but they were 
both gone out of town. 

At Salem there is a fort with two demi-bastions, but they stand 
less in need of it than any of the other maritime towns here, for the 
entry to this harbour is so difficult and rocky that even those who 
have been for years used to the place will not venture in without a 
good pilot, so that it would be a hard task for an enemy to enter. 
Portsmouth harbour is easy enough, but the current of the tides there 
is so violent that there is no getting in or out but at particular seasons, 
and, besides, they are locked in on all hands by islands and promon- 
tories. At Marblehead the entry is very easy and open. 

At twelve o'clock I thought of going to Marblehead again to pay 
another visit to Mr. Malcolm, whose company and conversation had 
much pleased me, but meeting here with a gentleman going to Boston, 
I took the opportunity, for the sake of company, to go along with 
him. 



REV. GEGRGE WHITEFIELD IN 1740. 

REV. George Whitefield, the revivalist, made several tours of 
New England and at last died suddenly in Newburyport, in 
1770 and was buried "Under the church on Federal Street" 
where for many years the coffin was exhibited to visitors. Doctor 
Bentley, the Salem minister, viewed the remains on May 6, 1787 and 
records in his Diary : "His body is yet firm. The resistance of the 
breast is as great as in a piece of tight parchment, both his hands 
are taken away, and his throat cut open." His first tour of New 
England was published under the following title : "A Continuation 
of the Rev. Mr. Whitefields' Journal . . . Containing an account of 
the work of God at Georgia, Rhode Island, New-England . . . London, 
1741. 

Monday, Sept. 29, [1740]. Set out about 7 in the Morning, got to 
Marblehead, a large Town 20 Miles from Boston, about 11 ; preach'd 
to some Thousands in a broad Place in the middle of the Town, but 
not with much visable Effect. Din'd with Mr. Barnard, one of the 
Ministers of the Place. Rode to Salem, 4 Miles from Marblehead, 
and preach'd there also to about 7000 People ; Here the Lord mani- 
fested forth his Glory. One Man was, I believe, struck down by the 
Power of the Word. In every Part of the Congregation Persons 
might be seen under great Concern ; One Mr. Clark, a good Minister, 
as is granted by all Lovers of God, seemed to be almost in Heaven. 
Salem is the first settled, and except Boston, the largest Town in all 
New England; but rather, as far as I could see and hear, excells it for 
Politeness. Upon Enquiry, I found the Inhabitants had been sadly 
divided about their Minister ; and God was pleased, before I knew 
their Circumstances, to direct me to a suitable Subject. . . , After 
the Exercise, I immediately set out and got to Ipswich, another large 
Town, 16 Miles (the Way we went) distant from Salem. Two or 
three Gentlemen came to meet me, and I and my Friends were kind- 
ly entertain'd at the House of Mr. Rogers, one of the Ministers of 
the Place. 

(71) 



72 REV. GEORGE WHITEFIELD IN 1740. 

Tuesday, Sept. 30. Preach'd at Ipswich about 10 in the Morning, 
to some Thousands ; The Lord gave me Freedom, and there was a 
great Melting in the Congregation. Din'd, set out and reach'd New- 
bury, another large Town, twelve Miles distant from Ipswich, about 
3. Here again the Lord accompanied the Word with his Power ; 
The Meeting-House was very large, many Ministers were present, 
and People were greatly affected. Took Ferry immediately after 
Sermon ; went with Mr. Cotton, Minister of the Place, who came to 
meet me in a Chaise to Hampton, another great Town, 9 Miles from 
Newbury. 

Set out directly for Newbury ; which we reach'd about 8 at Night, 
and were kindly entertain'd at a Gentleman's House with all my 
Friends, my Heart was much enlarged and fill'd with Joy. . . . 

Saturday, Octob. 4. Lay at the House of Mr. Lowell, Minister of 
the Place. Preached in the Morning to a very throng'd Congregation, 
and saw the Outgoings of God in his Sanctuary ; collected £80 9s. 
Hastned to Ipswich; preached to a larger Congregation, and with as 
much Power as when there last. Got to Salem about 8 at night, was 

most kindly received by Col. P d ; and also was favour'd with a 

Visit from the Minister belonging to the Church of England. 

Sunday, October 5. Preach'd at 8 o'clock, this Morning in the 
Meeting-House. At the Minister's Request, read Prayers and assisted 
at the Sacrament in the Church of England, but thought Matters 
were not at all carried on with Decency and Order. Preached again 
in the Afternoon in the Meeting-House, but saw no such Power all 
the Day as when I preached here a few Days ago. 

Monday, October 6. Spent the Sabbath Evening very comfortably 
with my dear Fellow Travellers in praying and singing spiritual Songs ; 
I trust we made Melody, with Grace in our Hearts unto the Lord. 
Set out from Salem about 9, preached at Marblehead about 11, 
and with such Power that I trust it will be a Day much to be re- 
membered by many Souls. The two Ministers presented me £70 2s. 
6d. for the Orphan-House, which they had voluntarily collected Yes- 
terday in their ow^n private Meetings. Was most affectionately re- 
ceived and entertain'd by Col. M n, from whom I parted almost 

with Tears. 



CAPT. FRANCIS GOELET IN 1750. 

CAPTAIN Goelet was a merchant of the city of New York who 
made several voyages to England during one of which, in the 
ship "Tartar Galley," he encountered a severe storm which 
disabled the vessel and compelled it to put into Boston for repairs 
where he remained from Sept. 29 to Nov. 7, in the year 1750. He 
kept a journal of his "Voyages and Travels," and abstracts covering 
the time of his stay in Boston were printed in the January, 1870 issue 
of The New-England Historical and Genealogical Register. Included 
are accounts of visits to Salem and Marblehead. 

October 19'^ [1750]. While at Breakfast M^. Nathi Cunningham 
waited on me at Cap^. Wend^ Agreeable to Promise and Furnished 
me with a Horse to go to Salem, being Very desirous to see the 
Country. Sett out ab^ 10 a Clock from Cap*. Wendells and Rode 
trough the North End the Towne and Crost^ Charles Town Ferry 
which is abt 1/4 mile Over its a Pleasant Little towne directly Op- 
posite the North End of Boston and is pleasently Situated Consists 
of abt 200 Houses and where the Bostoneers Build many Vessels, it 
is the Chief Ferry from Boston Leading to the main Country Back 
abt 2 miles from thence we Crost Penny Ferry which is better then 
1/2 mile Over being the Neighest way to Salem. From this to M^. 
Wards is about 8 miles, and is abt a mile this Side of Lyn which is a 
Small Country Towne of ab* 200 Houses, very Pleasently Situated, 
and affords a Beautifull Rural Prospect we came to M*". Wards about 
One a Clock, and dynd upon Fryd Codd from this place is about 7 
miles to Salem, after Dinner haveing Refreshed our Selves with a 
Glass wine Sett out on our Journey trough a Barren Rockey Country 
which afforded us not the Least Prospect of any thing but a Desart 

(73) 



74 CAPT. FRANCIS GOELET IN 1750. 

Country abounding with Loffty Cragged Rocks a Fine Pastering 
Ground only for their Sheep, the Rhoads are Exceeding Stony and 
the Country but thinly Peopled. 

October 19^^. Arived at Salem ab* 3 a Clock put up our Horses 
at the Wido Prats from whence went to See ColF. William Browne* 
where drank Tea with his Spouse, after which M"". Browne was so 
Good as to Accomodate us with a walk round the Towne Shewing 
us the wharfs warehouses &c. went up in the Steeple of the Church 
from whence had a Fine View of the Town Harbor &c. which is 
Beautyfully Situated From which have a View of M^. Brownes Country 
Seat which is Situated on a Heigh Hill ab* 6 Miles Eastward of Salem 
Spent the Evening at his House where Joynd in Company by Parson 
Appletont and Miss Hetty his daughter from Cam.bridge they Being 
Acquaintence of M"". and M^s. Browne, we Supd togeather and after 
that where Very merry, at Whist &c. 

October 20'^. Lodg'd at M^. Brov/nes after Breakfast Saunterd 
round the Towne mayking Our Observations on the Builds &c Dynd 
at his House after Dinner had a Good Deal Conversation with him 
upon Various Subjects he being a Gent" of Excellent Parts well Ad- 
versed in Leaturate a Good Scholar a Great Vertuosa and Lover of 
the Liberal Arts and Sciences haveing an Extroardenary Library of 
Books of the Best Ancient and Modern Authors about 3 a Clock we 
Sett out in his Coach for his Country Seat rideing trough a Pleasant 
Country and fine Rhoads we arived there at 4 a Clock the Situation 
is very Airy Being upon a Heigh Hill which Over Looks the Country 
all Round and affords a Pleasant Rural Prospect of a Fine Country 
with fine woods and Lawns with Brooks water running trough them 
you have also a Prospect of the Sea on one Part and On another a 
Mountain 80 miles distant The House is Built in the Form of a Long 
Square, with Wings at each End and is about 80 Foot Long, in the 
middle is a Grand Hall Surrounded above by a Fine Gallery with 
Neat turned Bannester and the Cealing of the Hall Representing a 

*Col. Browne was, at one time, a conspicuous character in Salem. He probably 
married the daughter of Gov. Burnet while the latter resided in Mass. His son 
Col. William Brown, was a prominent loyalist. — Felt's Annals of Salem; Picker- 
ing's Life of Timothy Pickering; Sabine's American Loyalists. 

tRev. Nathaniel Appleton, D. D. 



CAPT. FRANCIS GOELET IN 1750. 75 

Large doom Designed for an Assembly or Ball Room, the Gallery for 
the Mucisians &c. the Building has Four Doors Fronting the N. E. 
S. & W. Standing in the middle the Great Hall you have a Full 
View of the Country from the Four Dores at the Ends of the Build- 
ings is 2 upper and 2 Lower Rooms with neat Stair Cases Leading to 
them in One the Lower Rooms is his Library and Studdy well Stockd 
with a Noble Colection of Books, the others are all unfurnish'd as 
yet Nor is the Building yet Compleat wants a Considerable workman 
Ship to Compleat it, so as the Design is But Since the Loss of his 
first wife who was Governour Burnetts Daughter of New York by 
whome he has yet 2 Little Daughters Liveing, the Loss of her he 
took much to heart as he was doateingly fond of her Being a Charm- 
ing Ladie when married. But he is now determined to Compleat it 
we drank a Glass wine haveing Feasted our Eyes with the Prospect 
of the Country Returned to his House where Sup'd and Past the 
Evening Vastly Agreeable being a Very mery Facitious Gentlemen, 
went to bed Intends to Proceed to Marble head Next Morning. 

October 21st. Haveing Got our Horses ready, after Breakfast took 
our Leaves of M*". Browne and Spouse. Before proceed shall Give a 
Discription of Salem Its a Small Sea Port Towne. Consists of ab* 
450 Houses, Several of which are neat Buildings, but all of wood, 
and Covers a Great Deal of Ground, being at a Conveniant Distance 
from Each Other, with fine Gardens back their Houses, the Town 
is Situated on a Neck of Land Navagable on either Side is abt 2 1/2 
Miles in Lenght Including the Build^s Back the Towne, has a main 
Street runs directly trough. One Curch 3 Presbiterian and One 
Quakers Meeting, the Situation is Very Pretty &c. 

The Trade Consists Chiefly in the Cod Fishery, they have ab* 60 
or 70 Sail Schooners Employd in that Branch. Saw ab^ 30 Sail in 
the Harbr havs then abt 40 at Sea. They Cure all their Own Cod 
for Markett, Saw there a Vast Number Flakes Cureing, in the Har- 
bour Lay also two Topsail Vessels and three Sloops, on Exame into 
the Fishery find it a very adventags Branch. 

Wee arived at Marblehead at ab* 10 a Clock, which is ab^ 4 Miles 
by Land, trough a Pleasent Country and good Roades, and is about 
11/2 Miles by Water, it forms a Bay, Marblehead lays on the East- 



76 CAPT. FRANCIS GOELET IN 1750. 

ermost part of the Land but y^ west Side the Bay, and Salem on a 
Point, the Westermost part of the Land and Easttermost Side the 
Bay, before you Enter Marblehead the Roads are Excessive Stony 
and Land very Rockey, affording only very Little Pasture Ground, 
Put up at Mr. Reads where Breakfast and Then went to see the 
Towne of Marblehead, has ab* 450 Houses all wood and Clapboarded 
the Generallity Miserable Buildings, Mostly Close in with the Rocks, 
with Rockey foundations Very Craggy and Crasey. The whole Towne 
is Built upon a Rock, which is Heigh and Steep to the water. The 
Harbour is Sheltered by an Island, which Runs along Parralell to it, 
and brakes of the Sea, Vessells may Ride here Very safe, there is a 
Path or way downe to the warf which is but Small and on which is a 
Large Ware House, where they Land their Fish &c. From this heigh 
Cliffty Shore it took its Name, I saw ab* 5 Topsail Vessells and ab* 
10 Schooners and Sloops in the Harbour, they had then ab^ 70 Sail 
Schooners a Fishing, with abt 600 men and Boys imployed in the 
Fishery, they take Vast Quantities Cod, which they Cure heere Saw 
Several Thousand Flakes then Cureing. This Place is Noted for 
Children and Noureches the most of any Place for its Bigness in 
North America, it's Said the Chief Cause is attributed to their feed- 
ing on Cods Heads, &c. which is their Principall Diett. The Great- 
est Distaste a Person has to this Place is the Stench of the Fish, the 
whole Air seems Tainted with it. It may in Short be Said its a 
Dirty Erregular Stincking Place. About Eleven Sett out from 
Marblehead and ab* One Arived at Linn Dynd upon a Fine Mongrell 
Goose at M^. Wards, after Dinner Proceed^^ on Our Journey Past 
trough Mistick which is a Small Town of ab^ a hundred Houses 
Pleasently Situated near to which is a Fine Country Seat belonging 
to Mr. Isaac Royall being One of the Grandest in N. America Arived 
at Charles Towne ab* 7 a Clock and Crosed the Ferry at North End 
and Came to M^. Jacob Wendells where Spent the Evening with 
Several Gentlemen. 



HUGH FINLAY IN 1773. 

HUGH Finlay was an Englishman who came to Canada in 1760 
where he established himself in business and became a 
Justice of the Peace and Legislative Councillor. When Benja- 
min Franklin came to Canada in 1772 to establish a postal service 
he placed it in Finlay's hands and when Franklin was dismissed in 
1774 Finlay was made Deputy Postmaster General of the Northern 
District of North America. In 1775 he lived in "Holland House" 
which was occupied by Gen. Montgomery as his headquarters. After 
the Revolution he became Deputy Postmaster General for the British 
Colonies in North America and died in 1802. In 1773 and 1774 he 
made a tour of inspection along the Atlantic coast as far south as 
Georgia and the following account is abstracted from the Journal kept 
by Hugh Finlay, 1773-1774, Brooklyn, 1867. 

Left Portsmouth [Oct. 9, 1773] after dinner, and arrived at New- 
bury (22 miles), Bulkeley Emerson, Dep'y- On Sunday 10th did no 
business. 

Monday 11th. Examined the books, they were in form and up to 
this day : he has no office, but receives and delivers letters in his 
shop, he is a bookseller. He seems to be a stayed, sober man. Re- 
ceived the balance of the quarter ending the 5th. The Post from 
Boston arrives on Tuesdays at 6 o'clock in the evening. From Ports- 
mouth on the same day at one P. M. From Boston on Friday 6 
o'clock P. M. in summer. From Portsmouth on Friday between 4 
and 5 P. M. The mail for Boston is made up on Tuesday, one o'clock. 
For the Eastward at the same time. For Boston on Friday 4 o'clock 
P. M. For the Eastward at the same time, but theres seldom any letters 
either for East or West. The stages and private conveyances take 
it all. Left a copy of Mr Foxcrofts directions to me dated 16th Sept. 
to settle and receive balances from the Deputy Post masters. Mr. 
Emerson thinks that the want of Post-horns is a loss to the office, 
for by warning given by the horn many letters wou'd go by Post 
which are now sent by other oportunity's — the Post shou'd blow be- 

(77) 



78 HUGH FINLAY IN 1773. 

fore the hour of shutting, and in passing on his way many letters 
wou'd be deliver'd to him. He asks, whether, if the drivers of stages 
were to be paid a penny for every letter they bring to the ofhce he 
might charge two pence for all such letters deliverable in town. The 
Rider who brings the mails to this office is punctual. The office here 
neither encreases nor diminishes, the rece't is from £9 to £10 lawful, 
quarterly. 

Left Newbury and proceeded 12 miles to Ipswitch, James Foster, 
Dep'y- Gone to the country ; he keeps a small shop. Left directions 
for him in writing to send his accots. with the General Post office 
by next Post., directed for me at the Post Office in Boston, and also 
to send the balance of his account, and to inform me of the days and 
hours of the arrival of mails at his office, and the times of the Post's 
departure from his office, with any proposals he may have to make 
for the good of the office — with his report of the riders employed. 
Proceeded 12 miles to Salem, Edward Norice, Dep'y- 

October 11th. His books were not in good order, he follows 
the form, but they are dirty and not brought up regularly ; he under- 
stands the business of a deputy. The office is kept in a small mean 
looking place. He teaches writing. He has no commission to act, 
he took charge of the office at the death of his father ; he reports 
that every other day the stage coach goes for Boston, the drivers 
take many letters, so that but few are forwarded by Post to or from 
his office. If any information were lodged (but an informer wou'd 
get tar'd and feather'd) no jury wou'd find the fact ; it is deem'd 
necessary to hinder all acts of Parliament from taking effect in 
America. They are they say to be governed by laws of their own 
framing and no other. 

While Mr. Norrice was making up his accounts I went down the 
12th, four miles, to Marblehead, Woodward Abrahams, Deputy. He 
was from home : his wife informs me that he accounts to Mr. Hub- 
bard, Post Master in Boston, and the quarter ending the 5th July 
was settled and transmitted. Wrote a letter to Mr. Abrahams, as 
follows : 

"My business with you was to look into your office books, to re- 
ceive the quarters account ending the 5th of this month, and the 



HUGH FINLAY IN 1773, 79 

balance due by you to the General Office, and to enquire if you 
have anything to propose for the good of the service, or any thing 
to represent needing amendment, but as I have miss'd of you, I pray 
you to transmit the accounts and balance to me at Mr. Hubbard's 
in Boston by the first Post : and be so good as to inform me of any 
matter which you think a Surveyor shou'd be made acquainted with, 
whose business is to further the interest of the General Post Office, 
and facilitate correspondence by every possible means. I shou'd 
be glad to know particularly how the mails are forwarded, since 
John Noble cannot ride thro' this place. I shall leave Salem for 
Boston to morrow morning, where I shall remain some days." 

In passing thro' the street in my way back to Salem, I met Mr. 
Abrahams on his return from the country : a few minutes before my 
letter was put into his hands, he promised to comply with my demands. 
He appears to be an intelligent man ; he has an em.ployment in the 
Customs, and keeps the Post Office where he does the Custom House 
business. Noble, the rider, cannot go down to Marblehead at present. 
The small-pox is in Salem, and was he to go down with the mail he 
wou'd be oblig'd to undergo the ceremony of smoaking, that is, to 
be fumigated with brim-stone ; as he is of a weakly constitution he 
cannot submit to it, therefore he leaves the Marblehead bag to take 
its chance of a conveyance ; opportunitys happen once or twice a day, 
yet it sometimes lies for days at Salem — the people in Marblehead 
complain of this. It is Noble's duty to send it down by a person 
sent on purpose, this rider is careful, sober and punctual ; he rides 
all the way to Portsmouth. 

On my return to Salem I settled with Mr. Norice, who would not 
swear to his accounts as he has no commission. The Post from 
Boston arrives at Salem on Tuesday 12 o'clock, and he is dispatch'd 
for the Eastward at 2 ; coming from Boston the rider goes first to 
Marblehead. He returns from the Eastward every Saturday morn- 
ing at 10 o'clock, and takes Marblehead on his way to Boston. Left 
Salem and proceeded 21 miles to Boston, (where I arrived the 13th), 
Tuthill Hubbard, Post Master. 



MARQUIS DE CHASTELLUX IN 1782. 

FRANCOIS Jean Chastellux was born in Paris in 1734 and at an 
early age entered tiie army. In 1777, he was a Major-General 
under Rochambeau in the American army and afterwards 
travelled through the Middle States, to Massachusetts and New 
Hampshire in 1782. The following year he sailed from Philadelphia 
and returned to France where he died Oct. 28, 1788 in Paris. The 
following account of his journey through Essex County is abstracted 
from the English translation of his travels published under the follow- 
ing title : Travels in North America in the years 1 780, 1 781 and 1 782. 
By the Marquis de Chastellux, 2 vols., London, 1787. 

It was on the morning of the 8th [Oct. 1782] that I examined the 
field of battle at Concord, which took me up till half past ten, when 
I resumed my journey. Ten miles from Concord is Bellerika, a pretty 
considerable township ; the country here was less fertile, and the 
road rather stony. We halted at South Andover, five miles beyond 
Billerika, at a bad inn, kept by one Forster ; his wife had some 
beautiful children, but she appeared disordered, and I thought her 
rather drunk. She shewed me, with much importance, a book her 
eldest daughter was reading, and I found it, to my no small surprise, 
to be a book of prayers in Italian. This daughter, who was about 
seventeen, repeated also a prayer in the Indian language, of which 
she understood not a word, having learnt it accidentally from an 
Indian servant ; but her mother thought all this admirable. We 
contented ourselves with baiting our horses in this wretched alehouse, 
and set out at half past one, travelled through South and North An- 
dover. North-Parish, or, North Andover, is a charming place, where 
there are a great number of very handsome houses, a quantity of 
meadows, and fine cattle. Almost on quitting this long township, 
you enter Bradford, where night overtook us, and we travelled two 
or three miles in the dark before we reached Haverhill ferry. It was 
half past six before we had crossed it, and got to Mr. Harward's inn, 
where we had a good supper, and good lodgings. At Haverhill, the 

(80) 



MARQUIS DE CHASTELLUX IN 1782. 81 

Merimack is only fit for vessels of thirty tons, but much larger ones 
are built here, which are floated down empty to Newbury. Three 
miles above Haverhill are falls, and higher up the river is only navig- 
able for boats. The trade of this town formerly consisted in timber 
for ship-building, which has been suspended since the war. It is 
pretty considerable, and tolerably well built ; and its situation, in 
the form of an amphitheatre on the left shore of the Merimack, gives 
it many agreeable aspects. 

We left this place the Bth at nine in the morning, our road lying 
through Plastow, a pretty considerable township ; after which we 
met with woods, and a wild and horrid country. [The Marquis then 
passed through Kingston, Exeter and Greenland and reached Ports- 
mouth that evening.] . . . 

The road from Portsmouth to Newbury passes through a barren 
country. Hampton is the only township you meet with, and there 
are not such handsome houses there as at Greenland. As we had 
only twenty miles to go, I was unwilling to stop, and desired the 
Vicomte de Vaudreiul only, to go on a little before us to dinner. It 
was two o'clock when we reached Merimack ferry, and from the 
shore we saw the openings of the harbour, the channel of which 
passes near the northern extremity of Plumb Island, on which is a 
small fort, with a few cannon and mortars. Its situation appears to 
me well chosen, at least as far as I was capable of judging from a 
distance. At the entrance of the harbour is a bar, on which there 
are only eighteen feet water in the highest tides, so that although it 
be a very commercial place, it has always been respected by the 
English. 

Several frigates had been built here ; amongst others, the Charles- 
Town, and the Alliance. The harbour is extensive, and well sheltered. 
After passing the ferry in little flat boats, which held only five horses 
each, we went to Mr. Davenports' inn,* where we found a good din- 
ner ready. 

I had letters from Mr. Wentworth to Mr. John Tracy, the most 
considerable merchant in the place ; but before I had time to -?end 
them, he had heard of my arrival, and, as I was arising from table, 
*Now the "Wolfe Tavern." 



82 MARQUIS DE CHASTELLUX IN 1782. 

entered the room, and very politely invited me to pass the evening 
with him. He was accompanied by a Colonel, whose name is too 
difficult for me to write, having never been able to catch the manner 
of pronouncing it, but it was something like Wigsleps.* This 
Colonel remained with me till Mr. Tracy finished his business, when 
he came with two handsome carriages, well equipped, and conducted 
me and my Aide de Campe to his country-house. This house stands 
a mile from the town, in a very beautiful situation ; but of this I 
could myself form no judgment, as it was already night. I went 
however, by moonlight, to see the garden, which is composed of 
different terraces. 

There is likewise a hot-house and a number of young trees. The 
house is very handsome and well finished, and every thing breathes 
that air of magnificence accompanied v>^ith simplicity, which is only 
to be found amongst merchants. 

The evening passed rapidly by the aid of agreeable conversation 
and a few glasses of punch. The ladies we found assembled were 
Mrs. Tracy, her tv/o sisters, and their cousin. Miss Lee. Mrs. Tracy 
has an agreeable and a sensible countenance, and her manners corres- 
pond with her appearance. At ten o'clock an excellent supper was 
served, we drank good wine. Miss Lee sung and prevailed on 
Messieurs de Vaudreiul and Taleyrand to sing also : towards midnight 
the ladies withdrew, but we continued drinking Maderia and Xary. 
Mr. Tracy, according to the custom of the country, offered us pipes 
which were accepted by M. de Taleyrand,t and M. de Montesquieu, 
the consequence of which was that they becamiC intoxicated, and 
were led home, where they were happy to get to bed. 

As to myself, I remained perfectly cool, and continued to converse 
on trade and politics with Mr. Tracy, who interested me greatly with 
an account of all the vicissitudes of his fortune since the beginning 
of the war. At the end of 1777, his brother and he had lost one 
and forty ships, and with regard to himself, he had not a ray of hope 
but in a single letter of marque of eight guns, of which he had re- 
ceived no news. As he was walking one day with his brother, and 

*Col. Edward Wigglesworth. 

tCount Bozon de Perigord, alias de Talleyrand, 



• 



MARQUIS DE CHASTELLUX IN 1782. 83 

they were reasoning together on the means of subsisting their fami- 
lies (for they were both married) they perceived a sail making for 
the harbour. He immediately interrupted the conversation, saying 
to his brother, "Perhaps it is a prize for me." The latter laughed 
at him, but he immediately took a boat, went to meet the ship, and 
found that it was in fact a prize belonging to him, worth five and 
twenty thousand pounds sterling. Since that period, he has been 
almost always fortunate, and he is at present thought to be worth 
£120,000 sterling. He has my warmest wishes for his prosperity ; 
for he is a sensible, polite man, and a good patriot. He has always 
assisted his country in time of need, and in 1781 lent five thousand 
pounds to the State of Massachusetts for the clothing of their troops, 
and that only on the receipt of the Treasurer, yet his quota of taxes 
in that very year amounted to six thousand pounds. One can hardly 
conceive how a simple individual can be burthened so far ; but it 
must be understood, that besides the duty of 5 per cent, on import- 
ation, required by Congress, the State imposed another tax of the 
same value on the sale of every article, in the nature of an excise, 
on rum, sugar, coffee, &c. These taxes are levied with great rigour : 
a merchant who receives a vessel is obliged to declare the cargo, 
and nothing can go out of the ship or warehouse without paying the 
duty. The consequence of this restraint is, that the merchants, in 
order to obtain free use of their property, are obliged themselves to 
turn retailers, and pay the whole duty, the value of which they must 
recover from those to whom they sell. Without this, they could 
neither draw from their stores, what is necessary for their own con- 
sumption, nor the small articles, which they are in the way of selling, 
at the first hand ; they are consequently obhged to take out licences, 
like tavern-keepers and retailers, thus supporting the whole weight 
of the impost both as merchants and as shop-keepers. Patriot as he 
is, Mr. Tracy cannot help blaming the rigour with which commerce 
is treated ; a rigour arising from the preponderance of the farmers 
and landholders, and also from the necessity which the government 
is under of finding money where it can ; for the farmers easily evade 
the taxes ; certificates, receipts, alledged grievances, reduce them al- 
most to nothing. Thus has a State, yet in its infancy, all the infirm- 



84 MARQUIS DE CHASTELLUX IN 1782. 

ities of age, and taxation attaches itself to the very source of wealth, 
at the risk of drying up its channels. [This observation appears 
rather forced, as applied generally, the Marquis admitting that these 
impositions were the result of a critical and immediate want. Trans- 
lator.] 

I left Newbury Port, the 13th at ten in the m-orning, and often 
stopped before I lost sight of this pretty little town, for I had great 
pleasure in enjoying the different aspects it presents. It is in general 
well built, and is daily increasing in new buildings. The warehouses 
of the merchants, which are near their own houses, serve by way of 
ornament, and in point of architecture resemible not a little our large 
green-houses. You cannot see the ocean from the road to Ipswich ; 
and the country to the eastward is dry and rocky. Tov/ard the west 
it is more fertile ; but in general the land throughout the country, 
bordering on the sea, is not fruitful. At the end of twelve miles is 
Ipswich, where we stopped to bait our horses, and were surprised to 
find a town between Newbury and Salem, at least as populous as 
these two sea-ports, though indeed much less opulent. 

But mounting an eminence near the tavern, I saw that Ipswich 
was also a sea-port. I was told however that the entrance was diffi- 
cult, and at some times of the year there were not five feet upon the 
bar. From this eminence you see Cape Anne, and the south side of 
Plumb island, as well as a part of the north. The bearing of the coast, 
which trends to the eastvv^ard, seems to me badly laid down in the 
charts ; this coast trends more southerly above Ipswich, and forms a 
sort of bay. 

Ipswich at present has but little trade, and its fishery is also on the 
decline ; but the ground in the neighborhood is pretty good, and 
abounds in pasturage, so that the seam.en having turned farmers, 
they have been in no want of subsistence, which may account like- 
wise for the very considerable population of this place where you 
meet with upwards of two hundred houses, in about two miles square. 

Before you arrive at Salem, is a handsome rising town called 
Beverley, This is a new establishment produced by commerce, on 
the left shore of the creek which bathes the town of Salem on the 
north side. One cannot but be astonished to see beautiful houses, 



MARQUIS DE CHASTELLUX IN 1782. 85 

large warehouses, &c. springing up in great numbers, at so small a 
distance from a commercial town, the prosperity of which is not 
diminished by it. The rain overtook us just as we were passing near 
the lake which is three miles from Beverley. We crossed the creek 
in two flat-bottomed boats, containing each six horses. It is near a 
mile wide ; and in crossing, we could very plainly distinguish the 
opening of the harbour, and a castle situated on the extremity of the 
neck, which defends the entrance. This neck is a tongue of land 
running to the eastward and connected with Salem only by a very 
narrow sort of causeway. On the other side of the neck, and of the 
causeway, is the creek that forms the true port of Salem, which has 
no other defence than the extreme difficulty of entering without a good 
practical pilot. The view of these two ports, which are confounded 
together to the sight ; that of the town of Salem, which is embraced 
by two creeks, or rather arms of the sea, the ships and edifices which 
appear intermingled, form a very beautiful picture, which I regret 
not having seen at a better season of the year. As I had no letters 
for any inhabitants of Salem, I alighted at Goodhue's tavern,* now 
kept by Mr. Robinson, which I found very good, and was soon served 
with an excellent supper. In this inn was a sort of club of merchants, 
two or three of whom came to visit me ; and amongst others, Mr. de 
la Fille, a merchant of Bordeaux, who had been established five years 
at Boston; he appeared a sensible man, and pretty well informed 
respecting the commerce of the country, the language of which he 
speaks well. 

The 14th in the morning, Mr. de la Fille called upon me to conduct 
me to see the port and some of the warehouses. I found the harbour 
commodious for commerce, as vessels may unload and take in their 
lading at the quays ; there were about twenty in the port, several of 
which were ready to sail, and others which had just arrived. In 
general, this place has a rich and animated appearance. At my re- 
turn to the inn I found several merchants who came to testify their 
regret at not having been appraized more early of my arrival, and 
at not having it in their power to do the honours of the town. 

*The "Sun Tavern," located in Essex Street, a short distance east of St. Peter 
Street. 



86 MARQUIS DE CHASTELLUX IN 1782. 

At eleven, I got on horseback, and taking the road to Boston, was 
surprised to see the town, or suburb of Salem, extending near a mile 
in length to the westward. On the whole it is difficult to conceive 
the state of increase, and the prosperity of this country, after so long 
and so calamitous a war. The road from Salem to Boston passes 
through an arid and rocky country, always within three or four 
miles of the sea, without having a sight of it ; at length, however, 
after passing Lynn, and Lynn Creek, you get a view of it, and find 
yourself in a bay formed by Nahant's Point, and Pulling's Point. I 
got upon the rocks to the right of the roads, in order to embrace 
more of the country, and form a better judgment. 

I could distinguish not only the whole bay, but several of the is- 
lands in Boston road, and part of the peninsular of Nantasket, near 
which I discovered the masts of our ships of war. From hence to 
Winisimmet ferry, you travel over disagreeable roads, sometimes at 
the foot of rocks, at others across salt marshes. It is just eighteen 
miles from Salem to the ferry, where we embarked in a large scow, 
containing twenty horses ; and the wind, which was rather contrary, 
becoming more so, we made seven tacks, and were near an hour in 
passing. The landing is to the northward of the port, and to the 
east of Charles-Town ferry. 



JOHN ADAMS IN 1766-1774. 

THE second President of the United States, when a young man 
and a practicing lawyer, frequently had occasion to visit Essex 
County in connection with the sessions of the Courts. He al- 
so had a brother-in-law living in Salem — Richard Cranch, a watch- 
maker, whose son William, became a Justice of the United States 
Supreme Court. John Adams makes no mention in his diary of a 
murder trial held in the old court house at Salem in 1769 in which 
he appeared for the defendant. The case was unusual in that at a 
preliminary hearing the medieval "ordeal of touch" was invoked to 
support the claims of the accusers. There was a similar instance at 
Woburn a few years earlier. The following extracts are taken from 
his diary as printed in Volume II of The Works of John Adams, 
Boston, 1850. 

August 12, 1766. Tuesday. Set out with my wife for Salem; 
dined at Boston ; drank tea at Dr. Simeon Tuft's at Medford ; lodged 
at Mr. Bishop's. 

Aug. 13. Wednesday. Set out from Mr. Bishop's, oated at Nor- 
wood's, alias Martin's, and reached brother Cranch's* at twelve 
o'clock ; dined and drank tea, and then rode down to the Neck Gate, 
and then back through the Common and down to Beverly Ferry, then 
back through the Common and round the back part of the town 
home ; then walked round the other side of the town to Colonel 
Browne's, who not being at home we returned. 

The town is situated on a plain, a level, a flat; scarce an emin- 
ence can be found anywhere to take a view. The streets are broad 
and straight, and pretty clean. The houses are the most elegant 
and grand that I have seen in any of the maritime towns. 

Aug. 14. Thursday. In the morning rode a single horse, in com- 
pany with Mrs. Cranch and Mrs. Adams in a chaise to Marblehead. 
The road from Salem to Marblehead, four miles, is pleasant indeed. 
The grass plats and fields are delightful, but Marblehead differs from 

*Richard Cranch, who had married a sister of John Adams' wife. 

(87) 



88 JOHN ADAMS IN 1766-1774. 

Salem. The streets are narrow, and rugged, and dirty, but there are 
some very grand buildings. 

Returned and dined at Cranch's ; after dinner walked to Witchcraft 
hill, a hill about half a mile from Cranch's, where the famous persons 
formerly executed for witches were buried. Somebody within a few 
years has planted a number of locust trees over the graves, as a 
memorial of that memorable victory over the "prince of the power 
of the air." This hill is in a large com.mon belonging to the proprie- 
tors of Salem, &c. From it you have a fair view of the town, of the 
river, the north and south fields, of Marblehead, of Judge Lynde's 
pleasure house, &c., of Salem village, &c. 

;!«*>!«* sis * J): * 

November 3, 1766. Monday. Set off with my wife for Salem ; 
stopped half an hour at Boston, crossed the ferry, and at three o'clock 
arrived at Hill's, the tavern in Maiden, the sign of the Rising Eagle, 
at the brook near Mr. Emerson's meeting-house, five miles from 
Norwood's ; where, namely, at Hill's, we dined. Here we fell in 
company with Kent and Sewall. We all oated at Martin's, where 
we found the new sheriff of Essex, Colonel Saltonstall. We all rode 
into town together. Arrived at my dear brother Cranch's about 
eight, and drank tea, and are all very happy. Sat and heard the 
ladies talk about ribbon, catgut, and Paris net, riding-hoods, cloth, 
silk, and lace. Brother Cranch came home, and a very happy even- 
ing we had. Cranch is now in a good situation for business, near 
the court-house and Mr. Barnard's meeting house, and on the road 
to Marblehead ; his house fronting the wharves, the harbor and ship- 
ping, has a fine prospect before it. 

Nov. 4. Tuesday. A fine morning. Attended court all day ; 
heard the charge to the jury, and a prayer by Mr. Barnard. Deacon 
Pickering was foreman of one of the juries. This man, famous for 
his writing in newspapers concerning church order and government 
they tell me is very rich ; his appearance is perfectly plain, like a 
farmer; his smooth combed locks flow behind him like Deacon 

Cushings,' though not so gray ; has a quick eye like ; he has an 

hypocritical demure on his face like Deacon Foster ; his mouth makes 
a semicircle when he puts on that devout face. Deacon Penniman 



'L 



*M^B^^&V' 




I 



JOHN ADAMS IN 1766-1774. 89 

is somewhat like him, though Penniman has more of the grave so- 
lemnity in his behavior than the other. The picture of Governor 
Endicott, &c. in the council chamber, is of this sort; they are puri- 
tanical faces. 

At this court I also saw a young gentleman lately sworn in the 
inferior court, whose name is Samuel Porter ;* he lived with Mr. 
Famham, took his second degree last year, and lives at Ipswich. 
Thus ever}^ county of the Province swarms with pupils, and students, 
and young practitioners of law. 

Nov. 5. Wednesday. Attended court ; heard the trial of an action 
of trespass, brought by a mulatto woman, for damages, for restrain- 
ing her of her liberty. This is called suing for liberty ; the first ac- 
tion that ever I knew of the sort, though I have heard there have 
been many. Heard another action for assault and battery, of a 
mariner, by the master of a vessel ; a little fellow was produced as 
a witness who is a Spaniard ; speaks intelligible English ; black eyes, 
thin sharp features ; has been among the English three or four years. 
Here I saw Nathaniel Peaslee Sargent, of Methuen.t two years an 
attorney of superior court, now commencing a barrister. He took 
his degree the year I entered college ; he has the character of sense, 
ingenuity, &c., but not of fluency ; he is a stout man, not genteel 
nor sprightly. This is the gentleman whom Thacher recommended 
for a justice, and admired for his correctness and conciseness, as an- 
other Father Read. Here I found the famous Joseph Eaton, at law 
as usual. I knew him when I lived at Worcester, where he had a 
suit, I believe, every court while I lived there. He now lives at Lynn 
End, on the borders between Essex and Middlesex. This is one of the 
stirring instruments that Goffe has patronized and encouraged for 
many years. I remember to have heard Goffe celebrate him for self- 
government, for a cool, steady command of his passions, and for firm- 
ness of mind, &c. Eaton is now at law with the Harts, whose char- 
acters are as curious as his and more so. This Eaton, Goffe set up, as 

*Afterv/ards of Salem and a Loyalist who died in London in 1798. It is said 
that he indicated to Lieut-Colonel Leslie, which street he should take on reaching 
Salem, Feb. 26, 1775, while on the way to the North Bridge. 

+Afterwards Chief Justice of the Supreme Court of Massachusetts. He died 
in 1791. 



90 JOHN ADAMS IN 1766-1774. 

Pynchon tells me, to be a justice, but Thacher got him indicted in the 
county of Essex for a barrator, which defeated the scheme of Goffe, and 
he came near conviction. Goffe grew warm, and said that Eaton's 
character was as good as any man's at the bar. Spent the evening 
at Mr, Pynchons, with Farnham, Sewall, Sargent, Colonel Saltonstall, 
&c. very agreeably. Punch, wine, bread and cheese, apples, pipes 
and tobacco. Popes and bonfires* this evening at Salem, and a 
swarm of tumultuous people attending them. 

Nov. 6. Thursday. A fine morning ; oated at Martin's, where we 
saw five boxes of dollars, containing, as we were told, about eighteen 
thousand of them, going in a horse-cart from Salem custom-house to 
Boston, in order to be shipped for England. A guard of armed men, 
with swords, hangers, pistols, and muskets, attended it. We dined 
at Dr. Tuft's in Medford. 

******** 

June 29, 1770. Began my journey to Falmouth in Casco Bay. 
Baited my horse at Martin's in Lynn, where I saw T. Fletcher and 
his wife, &c. Dined at Goodhue's, in Salem, where I fell in company 
with a stranger, his name I knew not; he made a genteel appear- 
ance, was in a chair himself with a negro servant ; seemed to have 
a general knowledge of American affairs ; said he had been a mer- 
chant in London ; had been at Maryland, Philadelphia, New York, 
&c. One year more, he said, would make Americans as quiet as 
lambs ; they could not do without Great Britain, they could not con- 
quer their luxury, &c ; Oated my horse, and drank balm tea at 
Treadwell's in Ipswich, where I found Brother Porter, and chatted 
with him half an hour, then rode to Rowley, and lodged at Captain 
Jewett's. Jewett "had rather the House should sit all the year round, 
than give up an atom of right or privilege. The Governor can't 
frighten the people with, &c." 

June 30. Saturday. Arose not very early, and drank a pint of 
new milk, and set off ; oated my horse at Newbury, rode to Clark's, 
at Greenland meeting-house, where I gave him hay and oats, and 
then set off for Newington ; turned in at a gate by Colonel March's, 
and passed through two gates more before I came into the road that 

*Pope's Night— the celebration of the anniversary of the Gunpowder Plot. 



JOHN ADAMS IN 1766-1774. 91 

carried me to my uncle's.* I found the old gentleman, in his eighty- 
second year, as hearty and alert as ever, his son and daughter well, 
their children grown up, and every thing strange to me. I find I 
had forgot the place ; it is seventeen years, I presume, since I was 
there. My reception was friendly, cordial, and hospitable, as I could 
wish ; took a cheerful, agreeable dinner, and then set off for York 
over Bloody Point Ferry, a way I never went before, and arrived at 
Woodbridge's half a hour after sunset. 

I forgot yesterday to mention, that I had stopped and inquired the 
name of a pond in Wenham, which I found was Wenham Pond, and 
also the name of a remarkable little hill at the mouth of the pond, 
which resembles a high loaf of our country brown bread, and found 
that it is called Peters' Hill to this day from the famous Hugh Peters, 
who about the year 1640 or before preached from the top of that 
hillock to the people who congregated round the sides of it without 
any shelter for the hearers, before any buildings were erected for 
public worship. 

******** 

June 17, 1771. Monday. Set out upon the eastern circuit. Stopped 
at Boston, at my office, and nowhere else. Came over Charles- 
town ferry and Penny ferry, and dined at Kettel's, in Maiden, by the 
meeting-house. Kettel is a deputy sheriff ; the meeting-house is Mr. J. 
Thatcher's. I mounted my horse and rode to Boston, in a cloth coat 
and waistcoat, but was much pinched with a cold, raw, harsh, north- 
east wind. At Boston, I put on a thick flannel shirt, and that made 
me comfortable, and no more ; so cold am I, or so cold is the weather, 
— 17th June. Overtook Judge Cushing in his old curricle and two 
lean horses, and Dick, his negro, at his right hand, driving the cur- 
ricle. This is the way of travelling in 1771 ; — a judge of the circuits, 
a judge of the superior court, a judge of the King's bench, common 
pleas, and exchequer for the Province, travels with a pair of wretched 
old jades of horses in a wretched old dung-cart of a curricle, and a 
negro on the same seat with him driving. But we shall have more 
glorious times anon, when the sterling salaries are ordered out of the 

*Rev. Joseph Adams, minister of that town. He had been a great admirer of 
Doctor Mather and was said to affect an imitation of his voice, pronunciation, 
and manner in the pulpit. 



92 JOHN ADAMS IN 1766-1774. 

revenue, to the judges, &c. as many most ardently wish, and the 
judges themselves, among the rest, I suppose. Stepped at Martin's 
in Lynn, with Judge Gushing; oated and drank a glass of wine, and 
heard him sigh and groan the sighs and groans of seventy-seven, 
though he kept active. He conversed in his usual, hinting, insinuat- 
ing, doubting, scrupling strain. 

Rode with King, a deputy sheriff, who came out to meet the judges, 
into Salem ; put up at Goodhue's. The negro that took my horse 
soon began to open his heart ; — he did not like the people of Salem ; 
wanted to be sold to Gaptain John Dean, of Boston ; he earned two 
dollars in a forenoon, and did all he could to give satisfaction, but 
his mistress was cross, and said he did not earn salt to his porridge, 
&c. and would not find him clothes, &c. Thus I find discontents in 
all men ; — the black thinks his merit rewarded with ingratitude, and 
so does the white ; the black estimates his own worth and the merit 
of his services higher than anybody else, so does the white. This 
flattering, fond opinion of himself, is found in every man. I have 
hurt myself today, by taking cold in the forenccn, and by drinking 
to much wine at Kettel's, and at Martins. I drank half a pint at 
Kettel's, and two glasses at Martin's. 

Just after I had drank tea and got my fire made in my chamber, 
my old neighbor, Jo. Barrell, came and lodged at Goodhue's in the 
same chamber with me. His grief is intense indeed. He spent the 
whole evening and a long time after we got to bed, in lamenting the 
loss of his wife, in enumerating her excellencies, &c. ; heartily wishes 
himself with her ; would have been very glad to have gone with her. 
He married from pure regard, utterly against the will of his mother 
and all his friends, because she was poor ; but she made him happy. 
She was the best of women ; the world has lost all its charms to him. 
She beckoned to me but a few minutes before she died, when her 
hands were as cold as clods. She whispered to me, "I love you now ; 
if I could but carry you and the children with me, I should go re- 
joicing." In this eloquent strain of grief did he run on. Millions of 
thoughts did this conversation occasion me. I thought I should have 
had no sleep all night ; however, I got to sleep and slept well. 

June 18. Tuesday. Rode with Mr. Barrell to Ipswich, and put 



JOHN ADAMS IN 1766-1774. 93 

up at Treadwell's. Every object recalls the subject of grief. Barrell, 
all the way to Ipswich, was like the turtle bemoaning the loss of his 
mate. "Fine season and beautiful scenes, but they did not charm 
him as they used to. He had often rode this way a courting with 
infinite pleasure," &c. "I can't realize that she has left me forever. 
When she was well, I often thought I could realize the loss of her, 
but I was mistaken ; I had no idea of it." In short, this man's mourn- 
ings have melted and softened me beyond measure. 

June 22. Saturday. Spent this week at Ipswich, in the usual 
labors and drudgery of attendance upon court. Boarded at Tread- 
well's ; have had no time to write. Landlord and landlady are some 
of the grandest people alive ; landlady is the great grand-daughter 
of Governor Endicott, and has all the great notions of high family 
that you find in Winslows, Hutchinsons, Quincys, Saltonstalls, Chand- 
lers, Leonards, Otises, and as you might find with more propriety in 
the Winthrops. Yet she is cautious and modest about discovering 
it. She is a new light ; continually canting and whining in a religious 
strain. The Governor was uncommonly strict and devout, eminently 
so in his day ; and his great, great grand-daughter hopes to keep up 
the honor of the family in hers, and distinguish herself among her 
contemporaries as much. 

"Terrible things sin causes," sighs and groans, "the pangs of the 
new birth. The death of Christ shows above all things the heinous 
nature of sin ! How awfully Mr. Kent talks about death ! How 
lightly and carelessly ! I am sure a man of his years, who can talk 
so about death, must be brought to feel the pangs of the new birth 
here, or made to repent of it forever. How dreadful it seems to me 
to hear him, I that am so afraid of death, and so concerned lest I 
an't fit and prepared for it ! What a dreadful thing it was that Mr. 
Gridley died so ! — too great, too big, too proud to learn any thing ; 
would not let any minister pray with him ; said he knew more than they 
could tell him ; asked the news, and said he was going where he 
should hear no news," &c. 

Thus far, landlady. As to landlord, he is as happy, and as big, as 
proud, as conceited as any nobleman in England ; always calm and 
good-natured and lazy ; but the contemplation of his farm and his 



94 JOHN ADAMS IN 1766-1774. 

sons and his house and pasture and cows, his sound judgment, as he 
thinks, and his great holiness, as well as that of his wife, keep him 
as erect in his thoughts as a noble or a prince. Indeed, the more I 
consider of mankind, the more I see that every man seriously and in 
his conscience believes himself the wisest, brightest, best, happiest, 
&c. of all mankind. . . . 

June 23. Sunday. In the morning my horse was gone. Went to 
meeting all day, and heard old Mr. Rogers, a good well-meaning 
man, I believe. After meeting rode to Newbury and visited Brother 
Lowell, Brother Farnham, and then went and supped with Mr. Jon- 
athan Jackson in company with Captain Tracy, Mr. Hooper, Mr. 
Williams, Mr. Frazier, and Brother Lowell; then went and lodged 
with Lowell. 

Nov. 9, 1771. Saturday. At Salem all this week, at court. Dined 
one day at Chief Justice Lynde's, all the rest of the week till this day 
with the court. Dined this day, spent the afternoon, and drank tea, 
at Judge Ropes's, with Judges Lynde, Oliver and Hutchinson, Sewall 
Putnam and Winthrop. Mrs. Ropes is a fine woman, very pretty 
and genteel. Our Judge Oliver is the best bred gentleman of all 
the judges by far ; there is som.ething in every one of the others in- 
decent and disagreeable at times in company — affected witticisms, 
unpolished fleers, coarse jests, and sometimes, rough, rude attacks; 
— but these you don't see escape Judge Oliver. Drank tea at Judge 
Ropes', spent the evening at Colonel Pickmans. He is very spright- 
ly, sensible, and entertaining, talks a great deal, tells old stories in 
abundance about the witchcraft, paper money. Governor Belcher's 
administration, &c. 

Nov. 10. Sunday. Heard Mr. Cutler of Ipswich Hamlet ; dined 
at Dr. Putnam's, with Colonel Putnam and lady, and two young 

gentlemen, nephews of the Doctor, and Colonel , and a Mrs. 

Scollay. 

Mar. 28. 1774. Monday. Rode with brother Josiah Quincy to 
Ipswich Court. Arrived at Piemont's, in Danvers, in good order and 
well conditioned. Spent the evening, and lodged agreeably. Walked 



JOHN ADAMS IN 1766-1774. 95 

out in the morning to hear the birds sing. Piemont* says there is a 
report that the Sons of Liberty have received some advices from 
England, which makes them look down; that they have received a 
letter from Mr. Bollan, that they must submit ; and others letters 
which they kept secret. 

Mar. 29. Tuesday. Rode to Ipswich, and put up at the old place, 
Treadwell's. The old lady has got a new copy of her great grand- 
father Governor Endicott's picture hung up in the house. 

The old gentleman is afraid they will repeal the excise upon tea, 
and then that we shall have it plenty ; wishes they would double the 
duty, and then we should never have any more. The question is, 
Who is to succeed Judge Ropes ?t Whether Brown, or Pynchon, or 
Lee, or Hatch ? The bar here are explicit against the two last as 
unfit. Lowell says Pynchon would take it, because he wants to 
make way for Wetmore, who is about marrying his daughter. Pyn- 
chon says Judge Ropes was exceedingly agitated, all the time of his 
last sickness, about the public affairs in general, and those of the 
superior court in particular ; afraid his renunciation would be at- 
tributed to timidity ; afraid to refuse to renounce ; worried about 
the opinion of the bar, &c. Mr. Farnham is exceedingly mollified ; 
is grown quite modest and polite, in comparison with what he used 
to be, in politics. Lowell is so, too ; seems inclined to be admitted 
among the liberty men. 

*He came to Danvers from Boston and in 1784 was keeping a tavern in Ipswich. 
In 1775 he was accused of being a tory but his good character was certified by 
citizens of Danvers. 

tJudge Nathaniel Ropes, Judge of the Superior Court, a firm loyalist, who lived 
in Salem. He died of small pox and while lying near to death his house was at- 
tacked by a mob and many windows were broken and the premises defaced. 




SIMEON BALDWIN IN 1784. 

'HILE a tutor at Yale College, Simeon Baldwin made a tour 
of the New England coast towns during which he kept a 
diary preserving some account of his observations. He was 
a Member of Congress in 1803-1805, the next year becoming Judge 
of the Supreme Court of Connecticut. In 1826 he wae Mayor of New 
Haven. His dairy and other papers have been published by Gov. 
Simeon E. Baldwin under the following title — Life and Letters of 
Simeon Baldwin, New Haven {1919.} 

Oct. 7, 1784. . . . Waited on the President,* gave him my 
Letter from Mr Clark — took some from him to Portsmouth — & tar- 
ried but a few minutes, took our leave of the Circle — & dined among 
the rocks & shoemaker shops of Lyn — went into one of the shops (of 
which there are 150) to see ye manufactory — were informed that 
Medford or Mystic, a pretty Town a little back was equally famous 
for a manufactory of brick — much of their common wall was made 
of them. After dinner & paying extravagantly for it we travelled 
thro' several little settlements tho' little good Land, till we came to 
Marblehead a town of about 4 or 500 houses on the sure foundation 
of a rock — they are famous for the curing of Cod. The people are 
savage in their nature & education — are very poor in general — amaz- 
ingly prolific & exceed all places in the habit of begging, one can 
hardly ride thro' the Town without being accosted in that way by 
one half of the old women & children in it. We viewed the crates 
got what information we could & rode round to Salem — put our 
horses & lodged at Col Bacons, after delivering our Letters & 
suping with Mr [Henry] Gibbs — he is a very kind hospitable man : 
says not a great deal, but appears clever — Mrs Gibs answers the 
same description. She does not half so much resemble the Prescot 
family, at N Haven as her sister Goodoo,t she was present — I gave 
her the Letter & drank to her as Mrs Gibs, the mistake turned the 

*Rev. Joseph Willard, D. D. President of Harvard College. 
tThe wife of Stephen Goodhue. 

(96) 



SIMEON BALDWIN IN 1784. 97 

Laugh on me &c — Friday, Oct. 8. Took my morning walk as usual 
to see the place — found the streets a little irregular but the buildings 
many of them very good, & the number, but a little short of those in 
Newport — business was lively & good deal done there — took breakfast 
at Mr Gibs — delivered a Letter to Miss Peggy McKey a plain, good girl 
— & another introductory to Mr Whetmore a Lawyer — promised to 
call on him again. Left the Town in company with Mr Law — soon 
pass'd the ferry to Beverly a place far exceeding my expectation ; 
in short I never had a just idea of the population of this country — 
every three or 4 miles a meeting-house would present itself — we 
dined at Mr. Dana's a very good minister of Ipswich, the Rev'd Mr 
Frysby came there to see us, and we must call on both on our return 
— our next stop was for a few minutes at Mr Bradfords & then a 
variety of merry chit-chat & friendly Disputes interspersed the variety 
of Landscips in our rapid progress to Newbury & port, where we 
slept after delivering a Letter to a very pretty Miss Parsons, with 
whom & her papa we spent most of ye Evening — Mr King to whom 
we had Letters was absent — we returned to the Tavern without 
much new acquaintance. 

Saturday, Oct. 9. Breakfasted soon after rising- — had an invita- 
tion soon after to breakfast with Mr [Samuel] Spring the clergyman 
— I went to his house but on my way was introduced to Mr Mycall 
the printer — went into his book store — found a very good collection 
of 5 or 6 hundred Vollumns — took half a second breakfast at Mr 
Springs. Found him & his wife both very agreeable — engaged to 
dine with them on Monday — took leave & rode to Almsbury — call'd 
on a Mr Bell, who was to be setled there the next week — could not 
get away 'till after diner — was entertained with great exuberance 
of his oddities — found fine road thro [Hampton] to our last stage at 
Portsmouth. 

Monday, Oct. 11, 1784. After viewing the greater part of the 
Town in company with young Mr Langdon — we took breakfast at 
Esq. Hale's & about 9 o'clock were on our horses for Salem — Ports- 
mouth is a Town of about 700 Houses not equal to Salem — is pretty 



98 SIMEON BALDWIN IN 1784. 

well laid out in squares — the Harbour exceeding good — their wealth 
is in the lumber trade — with share in the fishery. We made but few 
stages, & nothing particular in the soil or prospect was inviting — till 
we came to Newburyport ; this is a place of great Trade, particularly 
in fish, vessels & Lumber — the Town is pretty regular, perhaps in- 
cluding Newbury about 600 Houses — we dined at Mr. Springs, was 
exceedingly pleased in the acquisition of having him & his wife 
among the Circle of my acquaintance — took letters from Miss Hannah 
Parsons & the charge of a performance of her Papa's — in which I 
had a specimen of a man riding his Hobby — Mr Frysby was not at 
home & we excused ourselves without tarrying at Mr Dana's. Were 
so belated in the Hamlet of Ipswich that we put up for the night — 
although we depended on arriving at Salem — Mr Cutler* was so 
busy in some unavoidable matters that we could not spend time with 
him till the next morning when we breakfasted with him. He gave 
us a variety of entertainment, particularly an account of his tour to 
the White Mountains. He accompanied us to Beverly and took leave 
with much politeness. 

Tuesday, Oct. 12. Cross'd the ferry about 11 o'clock. Mr Whet- 
more was out of Town. Mr Hopkins to whom by his previous desire 
we introduced ourselves invited us to dine. We paid our respects & 
deliver'd our Letter to Mr Bentley & except his importunity (in which 
he succeeded) to make us tarry, I have not found a more agreeable 
acquaintance. After calling on Mr. Gibs & making my excuses for 
not being there the last night, I took their & Miss MacKey's Letters 
& mounted for Cambridge about 4 o'clock. Night overtook us & we 
lost our Road but were in College in about 3 & 1/2 hours. 

*Rev. Manasseh Cutler. 



LUIGI CASTIGLIONI IN 1785. 

BIOGRAPHICAL information in relation to this Italian visitor 
is lacking in all the dictionaries. He arrived at Boston in 1785 
and after visiting the Province of Maine journeyed through New 
Hampshire, Vermont, New York and into the Southern States. He 
gave special attention to the botanical novelties of the country and 
viewed it with the keen eyes of a naturalist rather than those of a 
political observer. His notes upon manners and customs are varied 
and of unusual interest. A long chapter is devoted to the Penobscot 
Indians. A New England salt fish dinner, with shell barks and cider, 
he found most indigestible. His travels were published in two vol- 
umes under the following title : Viaggio negliStati Uniti dell America 
Settentrionale fatto negli 1785. 1786, e 1787, Milam, 1792. The fol- 
lowing English translation of the portion relating to Essex County 
has been made by George Andrews Moriarty, Esq., of Boston. The 
first volume also was published in a German translation in 1793 at 
Mommingen. 

Although, upon my return to Boston I should have left at once to 
make my trip in the Eastern section of Massachusetts, the agreeable 
society of Boston and their kindly insistance detained me some days 
in that city, and I finally left on June 22 [1785] for Salem. The road 
thither is very beautiful and in some places very wide. I passed 
through Medford, a charming little village near Charlestown, and 
through Lynn another village which, situated at the foot of a hill 
covered with red cedars, enjoys a view over a little bay that lies in 
front of it and of the sinuous course of the Lynn river which here 
empties into the sea. Salem, the capital of Essex County, one of the 
oldest towns of Massachusetts, is situated near the sea, and has a 
harbor into which only small ships can enter. The houses are for 
the most part constructed of wood and are of good appearance and 
there are some made of brick. The churches are chiefly Presbyter- 
ian with an Anglican church and a Quaker meeting. The town is 

(99) 



100 LUIGI CASTIGLIONI IN 1785. 

said to have a population of eight thousand people, which gives it 
the right to send four representatives to the State Legislature. Its 
principal trade is in dried cod, of which they export annually 20 or 
30 thousand casks.* This fish which as I have before observed is 
found most abundantly on the Newfoundland banks is prepared 
when taken in the following manner. As soon as a fish is caught it 
is split lengthwise and is immediately placed in different piles in the 
ship, after each layer of fish has been carefully covered with a 
layer of salt. They are left in this way until the ship arrives at 
Salem when they remove the fish from the piles, wash them in sea 
water, and then expose them for eight consecutive days to the sun 
upon a scaffolding made for such purpose, taking care to turn them 
each day so that they may be equally dried in all parts and taking them 
in at night. After eight days they pile them up again in the house 
leaving them there about one month after which they once more ex- 
pose them to the sun to thoroughly dry them. When entirely cured 
they are placed in casks, in which they compress them with a presser, 
and then put them on board ship. The best fish are taken in the 
Autumn or Spring while those taken in the Summer are of a very 
inferior quality. They are then carried to the Antilles where they 
are used to feed the negroes. 

On leaving Salem I passed over a small area of the sea that divides 
Salem from Beverly and arrived at Ipswich Hamlet where I passed the 
night with Mr. Cutler, minister of the Presbyterian church. In his 
leisure hours he devotes himself to the study of botany in which he 
has made rapid progress in a short time. I cannot express the 
pleasure I had in finding in America a person who occupied himself 
with so much intelligence in the humane study of natural history 
and the following morning we made a short trip on foot into the 
country where we gathered various curious plants that I had not 
previously observed. 

On this occasion we saw various squirrels that are very common 
all over Massachusetts, and of which there are three different species. 
The largest is the gray squirrel which is sometimes as large as a cat. 

*In the last year (1784) they exported 28,000 casks. Each cask weighs 112 
Enghsh pounds. 



LUIGI CASTIGLIONI IN 1785. 101 

They do great damage to the fields of Indian corn when the ears 
open and they eat the sweet and tender grains. Accordingly in some 
places the inhabitants are obliged to hunt them every four years and 
to carry the head to a chosen person* and in others they pay from 
the public treasury two pence for every squirrel killed. They kill 
these in the trees with shot guns, or take them with snares and traps 
and easily domesticate them keeping them in the houses bound with 
a light chain as pets for the children. They also eat the meat which 
is fat and of a delicate flavor, and the skins are sold at a low price. 

Much smaller than the preceeding is the chipmunk, that is not 
larger than a rat. This is called in English the striped squirrel be- 
cause it has two large white stripes running along its back. These 
are very abundant in the United States and one sees them scurrying 
rapidly away to the rocks that form their shelter. Their skins are 
much esteemed for the beautiful contrast that the two white stripes 
make with the dark tobacco color of the rest of their bodies and they 
are used to make mantles and tippets for ladies just as they use 
rarer furs. The flying squirrel is as common in America as in North- 
ern Europe and is smaller than the chip-munk and has the power of 
sustaining itself in the air in leaping from one tree to another by 
means of a skin that stretches from its front to its hind legs. A 
female was given to me in Boston by Doctor Clarke one inch from 
its nose to the commencement of its tail, which was four inches long, 
flat with round figure, and extending about an inch in width. The 
skin of the back was in color a gray brown, and that of the stomach 
white and the skin that extended from both sides of the body, and 
scarcely discernable when the animal stands still, was furnished with 
still longer fur. This squirrel is also easily domesticated and their 
skins are common and of small value. 

From Ipswich to Newbury-Port their are fifteen miles of very 
beautiful road running through pleasant country with cultivated 
fields. Newbury-Port is quite a large town situated in a valley of 
the Merrimack river three miles above the point where it empties into 

*In 1741 the General Court passed an Act to prevent damage to Indian corn 
and other grain. Selectmen were to allow four pence for each squirrel's head, six 
pence for crows and three shillings a dozen for blackbirds. They were directed 
to cut off the ears of the squirrels and the beaks of the birds. 



102 LUIGI CASTIGLIONI IN 1785. 

the sea. This river, which is more than a mile wide, is navigable for 
vessels for eighteen miles from its mouth and for boats for more than 
fifty, wood being brought to the city by means of floats from a hun- 
dred miles away. Newbury-Port has about three thousand inhabi- 
tants and is built partly of wood and partly of brick and has the ad- 
vantage of very pleasant surroundings. Its principal trade is in salt 
fish and timber which they export to the West Indies and they bring 
back in exchange molasses, that is here distilled into rum and aqua- 
vite. The 26th I remained here being obliged to delay my trip by 
an ancient law, which prohibits traveling on Sunday. The obser- 
vance of the Sabbath being one of the precepts most strongly taught 
by the Protestant religion and particularly by the Presbyterians ; it 
being forbidden on that day not only to indulge in play or music and 
in any kind of amusement for passing the time, but even to travel 
and in church time to walk about. Certain persons are chosen by 
the people called Wardens or Guardians who patrol the streets and 
arrest any one disobeying the law ; and since they are greatly respect- 
ed on account of their office they impose ordinarily pecunary fines 
on the transgressors, obliging those who wish to travel on Sunday to 
set forth the reason why they must do so, and obliging them to desist 
if their reasons for doing do not seem sufficient to them. These laws 
contrary to the other principles of liberty and toleration now established 
in the United States exist only in the states of Massachusetts, New 
Hampshire, Connecticut, and in Rhode Island, where Puritanism, the 
most fanatical of all the sects established in America, has its great 
strength. Never the less in Boston, and even in other cities and vil- 
lages, they do not elect the Guardians and strangers enjoy a perfect 
liberty. 

The 27th I crossed the Merrimack river and continued my trip to 
Salisbury and passed the boundary of Massachusetts and New Hamp- 
shire at Hampton. 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

THIS Salem clergyman and diarist was a person of unusual at- 
tainments whose rare benevolence, ardent patriotism, origin- 
ality and independence of character made him a marked man 
in his generation. In years to come he will be best know by his in- 
valuable "Diary" which was edited by the writer of these lines, and 
published in four volumes in Salem, in 1905-1914. It may be com- 
pared in vital interest and historical value with the diaries of Sam- 
uel Sewall and Samuel Pepys ; but it also possesses an individuality 
quite its own. In his not infrequent journeys about the country he 
minutely recorded every thing of interest that attracted his attention 
and these descriptions are here reprinted from his published "Diary." 

Monday, April 30, 1787. I went for Newbury in a chaise with 
Lydia Mason & arrived at Newburyport at 12 o'clock. I put up at 
Capt Noyes' dined with him & spent the evening with Mr. Murray. 
I found him a Scholar & a Gentleman. His Lady is of a most excel- 
lent person rather corpulent, but of a fine countenance. Tuesday was 
the Quarterly Fast at the Presbyterian Church. The rigid doctrines 
of the Confession were preached by Mr Murray in the morning, but 
rendered tolerable by the uncommon eloquence of Mr. M. who ex- 
ceeds in delivery all his contemporaries of New E. He stands low & 
appears to speak from memory, but really has his notes before him. 
In prayer he lifts the hands & sometimes applies them to the breast 
but uses no other gestures. In Sermon he is not in the least affected 
in his manner, he triumphs over his audience, & supports attention 
for three hours. In the afternoon the performances by a Mr Strong 
were contemptible. I dined on Wednesday with Mr Murray. His 
affability is engaging. He is agreeable in spite of his doctrines. I 
spent Tuesday evening with a Master Pike, who has in the press a 
Treatise of Arithmetic. He is the Master of the Grammar School, 
& of Cambridge University. I was also introduced to a Master Nor- 
ton in the South Writing School. He has raised himself by his moral 
good qualities, & his attention to study in the public esteem. Under- 

(103) 



104 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

Stands french perfectly. The Printer Mr Mycall gave me some Types 
from his own Foundery which did him honor. Mr Cary the Congre- 
gational minister preached on Thursday at his own house. A pious 
and rational discourse. He is a man of wealth, & of kind manners, 
as a better acquaintance shews. On Friday I returned, & arrived at 
Salem, impressed by the hospitality of the Gentlemen, whose houses 
I visited. 

Feb. 21, 1789. I went for Newbury. The roads were much blocked 
by large drifts of Snow which fell the night before, & in other places 
the earth was left uncovered. After stopping at Fairfield's in Wen- 
ham, & Treadwell's in Ipswich, I arrived at 6 P. M. at Mr Jackson's. 
This Gentleman had a son under my instruction for several months. 
He owns a very large and elegant Mansion house on the road to 
Amesbury from N. Port, on the north side of the road. At present 
he occupies an house belonging to Mr N. Tracey built of brick in the 
great street leading to the ferry, Town House, & first Church. I was 
received with every mark of attention. Mrs Jackson is a second wife 
with a large family of very amiable children. She is of the Tracey 
family, & her father Patrick Tracey then lay at the point of death. 
On Sunday Mr J. very politely waited upon me to the Meeting House, 
in which the preachers are Messrs Cary & Andrews. The assembly 
is the best in the Port, including the best families. The weather was 
very bad, & therefore did not admit a general attendance. The build- 
ing has nothing to recommend it. In the evening we were favored 
with the company of Master Pike, author of a late treatise on Arith- 
metic, Mr. S. Hooper, Dr Swett, &c. On Monday morning I waited 
upon Dr Swett in company with Mr Jackson, & breakfasted. Dr 
Swett is a polite scholar, & can recommend himself. I dined with 
Revd Cary. This Gent : has been ordained 20 years, but is taken 
from his public labours by a paralytic stroke, which prevents his con- 
versation, but has not otherwise impaired his memory, than by the loss 
of words, which he recollects by counting the letters upon his fingers. 
He has strong passions which he has remarkably governed. This 
evening I drank Tea at Mr Pike's who teaches the Grammar School, 
& enjoyed afterward my classmate Kilham at Mr. Jackson's. On 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 105 

Tuesday morning I breakfasted with Mr S. Hooper, a merchant of 
the place, and according to appointment Mr J. introduced me to 
Mr Carter who has an amiable daughter. As I wished for an ac- 
quaintance there was a favorable opportunity, for Miss C. & her 
Brother intending a journey to Boston on the upper road, it agreed 
with my plan of a return home to accompany them. We passed by 
Mr Noble's meeting house on the right, & then Mr Kimball's, & after- 
ward, Mr Tappan's on the left, upon an high hill, near to the elegant 
Seat of Hon : Mr Dalton, & the farm of Mr S. Hooper, which were 
on our right, & commanded a view of the Port & of the Ocean. We 
stopped at Bradford & delivered Letters from Dr Tucker of Newbury, 
one of the best characters of the age, to a celebrated Mr Balch, whose 
good sense distinguished him in his ministerial character in his own 
generation, & makes him venerable to posterity. He is above 80 years 
of age, & has been past his public labours for 15 years. His wife is 
blind, & deaf, but an uncommon share of chearfulness falls to the 
good man's lot. Mr Dutch his colleague was at the house, when we 
visited. We then went for the Upper Parish. The river was frozen 
& there was an excellent path from Russel ferry to Haverhill, but it 
being near night, & very cold we kept on Bradford side & put up at 
Revd Mr Allen's. He addressed the eldest daughter of Dr Eliot of 
Boston who died before his settlement, & is now married to a Mrs 
Kent, many years older than himself. They have one child & are 
very hospitable. Haverhill is an agreable Town on the opposite side 
of the river, which side being lower than on Bradford side, gave us a 
good view over the river. After breakfast we proceeded to Andover. 
There was a lecture appointed at Mr French's, but my company 
formed an excuse for my leaving them after I had viewed the Acad- 
emy. It is an elegant building, situated upon an hill, in free air. In 
the front are enclosed two rooms designed for private Schools, & a 
Library, &c. Between there you pass into the Academy. Between 
40 or 50 youth were present under the Preceptor Mr E. Pemberton, 
& the Sub P. a Mr Abbot. The Preceptor is an amiable man & com- 
municative. His abilities are admirable for his profession. Above, 
unfinished & fitted with benches for the religious Congregation, for 
which an house has been rebuilding, was the Hall, & Theatre. It is 



106 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

arched with great success for the exhibitions of the youth of the 
academy. The Meeting House is finished with great elegance. It 
has a tower but no steeple, & is painted in the best manner. . . . 
Expenses beside horse & Slay, Essex Bridge /9d. Wenham, Is/. 
Ips: 1/6. Newb: Bridge, /4d. New: Servant, 1/6. Shavg, /lOd. 
Bradf: Horse, /lOd. Boardmans sert : 1/6. Danvers, Upton, 1/6. 
tot: 9s/9d. 

******** 

On Tuesday, March 29, [1789] I went for Andover. I dined at the 
Black Horse in Middleton & while dinner was preparing I viewed the 
Pond lying west of the road at a 1/4 of a miles distance. The Pond 
measures a mile E. & W. & about 1/2 mile north & S. A road passes 
by it on the north, on which side the pond is viewed with great 
advantage from the top of an hill adjoining. After dinner I proceed- 
ed to Andover, & put up at Adams' on Haverhill's road. Then went 
to Dr Kitteridge's 1/4 mile from the meeting house. He has a large 
mansion house finished in front with great elegance with a plan of a 
large yard. The House is on the S. side of a Hill of considerable ele- 
vation & commands a good prospect of the Great Road. After Tea 
with the Dr, & his wife an Osgood, very deaf, & a sweet daughter 
Sukey, I went in company with the Dr to Mr Chickering's. At this 
house young Prat is confined. I found his delirium continued. I spent 
the evening at Rev. Symmes, & found him an informed & agreeable 
Gentleman. His health is very infirm. His wife was a sensible, & 
kind woman. I lodged & breakfasted at the Doctor's, visited Pratt 
again, took my leave of the Parson, & left the town, I dined at E. 
Fuller's a good farmer in Middleton. Visited Parson Smith, & drank 
tea & lodged at Revd Wadsworth in Danvers. He is an ingenious 
man & has a very amiable wife & family. On Thursday 11 o'clock 
A. M. I reached Salem. 

May 12th, 1789. Association met at Fuller's in Gloucester. The 
road is at present through Chebacco, part of Ipswich. It is tolerable 
till we reach the pond on our right. From thence it is two miles to 
the inlet, upon which the meeting house stands. The Bridge is con- 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 107 

venient, but the Causeway beyond, being overflowed by the tide, 
consists of so many naked cross pieces, & stones, as make it very 
disagreable. After we are over we turn to the left in a bad road & 
in three miles reach the Meeting house. It is the most rocky parish 
I ever beheld. 12 Clergym.en of the Association were present. We 
returned on the same day. In Chebacco are two meeting houses 
near to each other, which are improved alternately as the age of the 
houses & their size suit the season. They are monuments of religious 
dissentions in that place, which is still remarkable for its zeal. Mr. 
Cleveland, to whom they are indebted for their present character, 
was severely handled by Mayhew, & tho' a man of small abilities has 
interfered in many printed controversies & his daughter in the zeal 
of Night meetings was overtaken by temptation, & fell. 
******** 

On Saturday, Aug. 1, 1789 visited Topsfield, one of the most pleas- 
ing towns in our neighborhood. After dinner Mr Porter with Mrs 
Orne went with me to a pond about two miles above the Meeting 
house on the road to Boxford. At a Mr Hood's at the upper end of 
the pond we were entertained with berries &c., &c., &c. The Pond 
runs nearly with the road in a supposed north & south direction 1/2 
a mile, & is nearly of equal width throughout, being about a 1/4 of 
a mile under, in both directions the given distances. The approach 
to the pond upon the west side is best, but the greater part is swampy- 
We travelled through the swamp, by which we were prepared with- 
out ceremony to wade in for the Pond Lillies. We returned for Tea 
to Mr Porter's. The sides of the Pond are very shoal, which m.akes 
fishing with anghng rods very difficult, & there was no boat at this 
time in the pond. Mr Porter caught one Pickerel. 

******** 

July 28, 1790. This afternoon I went to ride with Nancy Townsend, 
one of my singers. We passed Pickman's farm towards Philips Beach. 
We turned to the right in the road from Lynn to Marblehead, &then 
in a few roods crossed at the left. There are several valuable Farms 
on this Spot. We arrived in a bad road of one mile & 1/2 at Philips 
Beach so called, about 1/6 of a mile long. We then alighted & passed 
bars & descended upon Blaney's Beach which was of greater length. 



108 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

I then passed alone over another headland & crossed King's or Need- 
ham's Beach, above 1/2 a mile long, & was upon the next headland 
within 1/4 of a mile of the Great Nahant Beach. I returned then & 
received my Companion, & stopped at Mr Reid's on Browne's Farm, 
now in the possession of his widow. He conducted me to a Beach at 
the bottom of his farm, exceeding in length either of the other Beaches 
excepting Nahant. We entered through land cast up by the sea, 
about midway of the Beach & North of a Pond formed by the beach 
cast up & covering about nine acres. It is drained of the greatest 
body of water, which is cast into it by a storm, through a ditch opened 
every time. At each end of the Beach the banks are high, & steep 
& closed with large rocks particularly at the northern end, projecting 
to Ram Island. Pig & Sunken rocks are directly off this Beach, & 
the Light House of Boston on the south view. The farm consists 
of 375 acres, & is this year in a very flourishing state, & is cultivat- 
ed in the following manner. 20 acres of Indian corn, 20 acres 
of Barley, & Buck Wheat, Rye blasts, 3 acres of flax, & 4 of 
Potatoes. 50 head of Cattle is the principal Stock, 29 Cows are 
milked. A very few sheep are on the Farm. The Farmer has ten 
children and is a Native of Woburn. We returned, & passed off to 
the right & came into Lynn Road 1/2 a mile nearer to Marblehead, 
We then turned round into Salem Road, & came by Gardner's mills 
homewards. There are many little boats laying along above the 
Beach. These are the property of men in the neighbouring towns, 
who come down in the months of April, May, & June, & fish for cod, 
haddock, perch, &c. with considerable success. They will accomo- 
date from 8 to 10 men on the seats, & resemble whale boats, tho' 
most have flat bottoms. The shore is broken from Browne's Beach 
towards Marblehead neck, & Tinker's Island which were in full view 
on the head north of Browne's Beach. There are short landing 
places between the projecting naked rocks. I suspect that little com- 
pany visits this place, from the readiness to serve without pay, & so- 
licitations, &c. Barn 96 by 36 feet. 

Sept. 22, 1790. At 1/2 past 6 in the morning I went from Salem 
for Haverhill, to attend a Review of the Regiment, & to visit Capt. 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 109 

Elkins, who is superintending the building of a vessel. I arrived at 
Mrs Porter's Topsfield, about nine miles from Salem, & made my 
first stage. I then passed the meeting house on my left, & turned at 
the burying ground 1/4 mile beyond, keeping the most direct road, 
avoiding the road leading to Ipswich & Newbury on the right, & 
to Andover, &c. on the left. I passed Topsfield Pond on my right, 
& went from it at the upper end. This pond I had visited before. 
Within a few miles I passed a beautiful & small pond nearly round 
& bold banks on the left, & afterwards another on the same side, 
having made a mistake in turning to the left, instead of keeping on, 
about 7 miles from the ferry. I soon mounted a Hill, which gave 
me a sight of Haverhill steeple 4 miles before I reached the ferry, & 
this part of the road was worst, mountainous, but under repair. When 
I arrived at the ferry, I found that the Review was to be on Bradford 
side, & left my carriage, but afterwards by sending for it I was in- 
volved in several perplexities from receiving a wrong one. I carried 
letters to a Mrs Carleton, who was formerly a Bowes, & of the Brown 
family, sister of Mrs Homans. I found Capt Elkins at Herod's Tav- 
ern below the Meeting house. The Landlord was a neighbour in 
Boston, & has a fine family of 9 children. I put up at this house, & 
found the best connections in the place, & very kind treatment. I 
visited the ship yard. I found only the Vessel of Capt Elkins on the 
Stocks. She is not of great burden. The Town has many good 
houses. An extensive prospect, being situate upon rising ground, 
descending to the river ; upon whose bank is the great Street. The 
Street extends a full mile but the group of house are at the upper 
end, & the dwelling Houses chiefly above the Street. At the lower 
end, is an elegant Seat of the Saltonstals, now the property of Mr 
Watson of Plimouth. It has about 30 acres of land, an ancient row 
of Elms, & Buttons, & most engaging Prospect of the River and ad- 
jacent country. At the upper end of the street is the Baptist Meet- 
ing House, the only respectable assembly of that denomination in the 
County, & that is lessening. It was found'd about 30 years ago dur- 
ing the ministry of Mr Bernard, by a Mr Hezekiah Smith, who is the 
present pastor. It is much out of repair, as are houses in general of 
that denomination. The assembly Room is in an unfinished building. 



110 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

Below is a Shop, & the entrance into the Room is by a flight of Stairs 
behind the Shop. As it is upon the Street, it opens into a Gallery 
with a handsome painted balustrade. Over the fire place at the op- 
posite end is a loft for the band, & the whole Room is finely arched, 
& convenient. The drawing Room is behind. The Congregational 
Church has a most excellent site. It is facing you as you ascend a 
street leading from the main street into the Country. The Houses 
round are pleasant & in a good style. It is painted v/hite, has a 
steeple & small bell, which rings at one & nine in the evening. The in- 
terior part of the Church is without elegance, or any distinction. From 
the Street we are conducted a few rods back into the Duck Manufac- 
tory set up & carried on by a Mr Blodget, a very ingenious mechanic, 
of some rank, formerly in N. Hampshire. His looms are constructed 
so as every part by pins, & wedges may be brought to any convenient 
form, & his spinners use the method which has in substance been 
adopted from them in Salem. The wheel which turns all the spindles 
may be assisted by the feet & hands at discretion, & is turned below. 
By a small weight he causes a stand for a lamp or candle to return, 
& it is conducted out by a wire fastened to the Spinner, at a conven- 
ient distance. He has eight looms going, & room for eight more. 
He has many good specimens of his Duck, which by a small anchor 
he lays in the river for necessary soaking, &c. There were three 
distilleries, but one of them is changed into a Brewery, & with con- 
siderable success. The water of the river is pronounced very fit for 
the purpose. In this Town resides our Chief Justice Sergeant. Back 
of the Meeting House & on the side is the house of the Revd Mr Shaw. 
The scene was engaging while I was present. The River was alive 
with Boats. The opposite Shore crowded with Spectators & every 
diversion was pursued which rural life admits. The Regiment con- 
sisted of 800 rank & file, & the Company of Horse. The m.en were 
well dressed. The Col. named Brickett, at whose house was an en- 
tertainment for the Clergy, the Officers dining at Bradford on the 
opposite side of the River. He is by profession a Physician. There 
was a manly freedom in the higher class of people, but a strange 
contrast to the manners of the lower people, who being employed, 
instead of forming upon the rivers on rafts, & lumbering, have very 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. Ill 

much the manners of the people in the province of Maine, & have 
their distinguishing vices, intemperance & want of punctuahty in 
their dealings. The soil on the road through Boxford was light, but 
better in Bradford. At Haverhill the river is 1/8 of a mile wide, & 
the tide flows commonly about 4 feet. We are carried over in Gon- 
dolas, when we have carriages. I saw only the young ladies of the 
place. 

23. I returned as far as Newbury. I came down Haverhill side 
with an intention to pass at Cottle's ferry, 4 miles below the Town. 
There is a ferry called Russel's 3 miles, entering the road by a Brick 
house on the right. But as the waterman lives on the other side, & 
Cottle on this, they establish it as a rule to pass down by Cottle's & 
return by Russel's ferry. After passing these ferries there are two 
roads, one on the bank of the river, & the other through the country, 
the latter being preferable for carriages I chose it but lost the beau- 
tiful prospect of the river, with which I had hitherto been entertained. 
At the first turning out I was soon brought into the lower road again 
& found I had passed a group of houses on the banks, but about 5 
1/2 miles from Amesbury I went 1/2 mile directly from the river, 
& lost every good prospect till I reached the Town. Upon passing 
on both sides I found on this the prospect most extensive but the 
roads are very hilly on this side. I soon entered the upper parish 
which has an elegant meeting house, pediment on front, & lately 
painted of a light colour. I passed this on my left, and a few miles 
below passed on the left the lower Meeting House much out of re- 
pair. This House was formerly used by Mr Hibbert a Presbyterian, 
who has withdrawn with his party, & built a House a little back from 
this spot, & has lately been rejected for intemperance. They settled a 
Bell, a most extravagant preacher, who is also dismissed. The Country 
is not the most fertile, it is much more productive on the opposite 
banks. They plant Indian Corn & sow flax. I saw no experiments on 
other grain. As we pass we see at a mile's distance on our left Salisbury 
meeting House, & as there is a lock of the river between Salisbury & 
Amesbury on the banks of the River at the entrance there is a con- 
venient draw Bridge, which has a good effect as seen from the River. 
Several vessels of considerable burden were upon the Stocks, & many 



112 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

under repairs in view as we passed. Having passed Amesbury ferry 
we ascend an hill, which was then in the hands of the Surveyors & at 
2 1/2 miles distance lies Newburyport. A small Island shews itself 
just below the ferry, & so another at a short distance below Haver- 
hill tho' the latter is the largest, tho' not the boldest of the two. 
From the ferry the road becomes more pleasant as you approach the 
Town. The soil at first is barren & upon a barren plain on the right 
stands a deserted Meeting House once improved by a curious Mr 
Noble. Soon we pass delightful Houses, & the Seats of Messieurs 
Jackson & Tracey entering the Town. The north is thinly settled 
& little cultivated. There are some noble buildings belonging to 
private Gentlemen. The Church of England has a forbidding appear- 
ance & the Steeples have no good effect. The best view of the Town 
is from the Powder house hill & from the water, but in no place does 
it group well. From the country it is too open, & from the water 
the best buildings are hid. They have lately erected a New School 
House in the High Street near the Pond, which has a belfry & is very 
convenient & handsome. The benches rise from the centre. No 
forms go against the sides of the building. The rise is one foot on 
each side. The day was appointed for the Military Review. The other 
part of the Regiment was reviewed on Monday at Salisbury & we 
had only the town companies. Some points of honor induced the 
South Company to club their firelocks & retire from the parade, tho' 
they submitted to an inspection in the afternoon. Three companies 
with the Artillery paraded in High Street in the afternoon. I drank 
tea with Mr Moses Hoit, & supped with Dr Swett in company with 
Esqr. Atkins. I visited Mr Jackson, and my more intimate friends. 
At Mycall's printing office I saw the best furnished office I had ever 
seen, tho' the preference is decidedly given in favour of Thomas of 
Worcester who has lately made very rich additions to his types. 

Sept. 24. I breakfasted with Esqr. Atkins & at 10 set out for Salem. 
I dined at Treadwell's at Ipswich, returned through Wenham, con- 
versed with Revd. Swain, & stopped in Beverley at the Manufactory 
& soon afterwards was joined by our member Mr Goodhue, & two 
Gentlemen from Connecticut, Judge Ailsbury of the Senate, & Sher- 
man of the House. Two Jennies were at work below, which carried 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 113 

about 70 spindles each. Several looms were at work, & the remark- 
able circumstance to us was the moving of the shuttle by Springs, 
which gives great velocity, & allows the greatest number of strokes. 
Above all the carding machine was most curious as it was different 
from all our observations. Two large cylinders of two feet diameter 
move in contact, & upon them other cylinders of different diameters, 
& these are covered with fine cards. These convey the wool when 
carded to a knife which cuts it & to a smooth cylinder whose upper 
service is made to assume as many projections as correspond to the 
operations of the knife, & bring away the carded wool. The speci- 
mens of the cloth were various & good. The carding machine cards 
fifteen pounds of wool in a day easily, said Mr John Cabot, who 
waited upon us, & recommended his Manufactory to the patronage 
of Government. I reached Salem before Sundown, & waited upon 
the Gentlemen to see Mr Symonds aet 99. 

Mr Mycall is now printing the last volumes of the "Children's 
friend," a valuable work in Schools. Expences on the Journey, pass- 
ing ferry alone a copper, carriage at Haverhill /7d. Expences at 
Herod's 6s/. At Amsbury ferry /7d. At Ipswich 1/8. Beverley 
Bridge /9d. Expense of Sulkey, 15s/. 

******** 

April 1, 1791. Set out for Andover by the way of Topsfield & 
Boxford. This road is judged the best for a Carriage, tho' the dis- 
tance be three miles greater in this road, than through Middleton. 
At Topsfield we passed the Meeting house on our left. The Meeting 
House on our right would have carried us through the old Parish, Revd. 
Holyoke's, to Andover in less distance but worse road. We kept the 
left hand road, as the most direct, passing several Pond's, Pritchards 
on the right 2 miles, Wood's on the left 5 miles, &c. The roads 
which go out on the right turn off much. At 6 miles distance we 
leave the right hand path & take left at an Oak tree in the road, the 
right leading to Haverhill. We keep the left 6 miles to Andover in 
the most direct path. Four miles from Andover we see the north 
Parish Meeting House of Boxford on our right, at 1/2 mile's distance. 
Here is a Farm, & Dwelling House in good order, possessed by Gideon 
Tyler. We come out 1/2 mile below Andover north Meeting House. 



114 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

As our visit was intended for Dr Kitteridge, whom my companion 
Capt. Becket intended to consult, we passed by the Dr's House, & 
went to the Public House 1/4 mile below formerly kept by Craig, 
since by Adams, & now^ by Bimsley Stevens, lately Goal Keeper, & 
Deputy Sheriff in Salem. He was a native of Andover. The road 
was remarkably good for the season of the year. There are several 
Saw Mills on the road. At two we stopped, to which roads lead on 
the left, going to Andover, at 1/8 mile distance. The Buildings are 
decent, the land not the best. In the afternoon we visited Fry's Hill, 
nearly south of the Meeting House in north Andover, above a mile 
in the road. The Hill is very high, & steep towards the road. Quite 
round for its height, & its greatest length N. & S. It overtops the 
adjacent country. It being a fair day we had an extensive prospect. 
Milton hills lay from us in the line of a hill 2 miles off, & were hid- 
den. On every other quarter the eye might range without obstruc- 
tion. N. W. bore the Wachuset of Princeton, distant 60 miles in the 
road, & N. of it the Great Menadnock near Dublin in N. Hampshire. 
On the N. we saw Adrimeticus in the province of Maine, & on the 
E. Pidgeon Hill, Cape Ann & the Ocean from which we were distant 
above 30 miles. In the valley we saw on the north the Merimack 
distant at the nearest point 3 miles, & the Shawshin which empties 
into it about 1 mile & 1/2 below the N. Meeting House of Andover. 
Methuen meeting house & houses were seen from the Public House, 
& from the Hill, & lays on the other side of the river Merimack. 
N. Parish of Haverhill appeared in full view joined to Methuen, & 
above the Houses of Dracut. The Academy on the S. W. appeared 
at 2 miles distance, & in the vale below the S. Meeting House finished 
with a Tower. On S. E. we saw Topsfield Meeting House & Spire, 
& the Road through which we had passed. We were kindly received 
at Mr Fry's by his wife, who was a Mackey of Salem. After tea we 
went down to the River, just below the entrance of the Shawshin in- 
to the Merrimack. The River Shawshin flows through Tewksbury 
into Andover, & enters above a mile below the N. Meeting House of 
Andover into the Merrimack, opposite to Methuen. The River is 40 
rods wide & where it is entered by the Shawshin there is a ford of 
gravel which is passed in the summer season without hazard, th o 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 115 

the water below be of great depth. On the opposite side of the Mer- 
rimack, but a little above, enters another small river of considerable 
course from N. Hampshire. The Honourable Judge Phillips, Revd. 
Symmes & Dr. Kitteridge visited us upon our return. Our Landlord 
attended us with his perspective glass in our excursions. We visited 
the Training field on the N. of the Doctor's House. 

April 2. From the Doctor's at 9 we set out for home. The stones 
from Andover have a uniform appearance until we reach Topsfield, 
especially those used in the walls of the enclosures, being of the 
appearance of iron mould & as if lately dug from the earth, which 
upon the first sight of them we imagined. Going and coming we 
made our Stages at Baker's, Topsfield. I visited Mrs. Porter, a sen- 
sible woman formerly an Allen. I saw my old classmate Wildes upon 
the road, and a Mr Gould, M. A. We reached Salem at Dinner. At 
Topsfield Hill may be seen the Spires of Marblehead. We saw men 
on their rafts passing down the Merrimack River. We observed the 
shifting banks, loosing on the Methuen side & gaining below on An- 
dover side. We were informed that there were now at the Andover 
Academy 66 youth, & in last summer 73. That board is at Judge 
PhiUip's 9s., Revd. French's 8s., Esqr. Abbot's 7s. 6d. and Tuition 
not exceeding Is. pr week. We observed the jealousy of the Parishes. 
The North Parish complain that there own Grammar School is neg- 
lected. The Parson observes that Academies are too numerous, 
that their model is not purely republican, & that an antient institu- 
tion was best for general knowledge, that there should be provision 
for a Grammar School in every town. 

April 21, 1791. Past 8 A. M. set out for Newbury. At Beverley 
saw Revd. Oliver who told me Lee, the Methodist, was preaching in 
his parish with some disaffected persons. This parson is much 
prejudiced against the Arminians ; not much informed. At Wenham, 
Revd. Swain assures me that Mr P. of Lynn had taken freedoms with 
women in Beverley, while an occasional preacher & that some charges 
were probably just, so far as to tarrying late, kissing, &c. At Ips- 
wich, Revd. Cutler was moving a Barn he had purchased, nearer his 
Mansion House. The Parish turned out with their teams on the 



116 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

occasion. I visited Mr Frisbie, a pious & useful minister & dined at 
Treadwell's. Reached Newbury at three o'clock, & drank tea with 
Mrs Maley, formerly a Mason. Hon. Mr Jackson shewed me his 
elegant mansion House. It is situate in the upper Street above the 
Church towards Amesbury ferry. It has a spacious lawn behind it 
with a gradual descent, & is near the house of John Tracey. The 
banks slope from the House. The front door opens into the hall, & 
the flight of stairs is on the south side. The division between the 
chambers, is formed into a convenient apartment of the whole length 
of the building for favorite amusements of dancing, &c. On the 
north side is a wing which has a granary, chambers communicating 
with the nursery, &c. On the other side a piazza was intended but 
not built. The Cellars are in excellent order for all domestic uses, 
such as cooking, brewing, washing. There is a bathing room under 
the apartments of the nursery, &c. He intends to return to it next 
week. Doors without number, and conveniences beyond account 
present to view & we find it one of the best finished houses of wood 
in the Country. In the evening visited Revd Murray,* who has 
several students in Divinity in his House. Langdon on the Revela- 
tion of John, was our Theological Subject. Mr Murray is engaged 
in correcting the press for Dr Huntington of Connecticut, upon the 
subject of the atonement. Mr Murray has lately published his dis- 
courses on Original sin, which with those on the Origin of Evil & on 
Justification, make a large volume. His health is impaired by the 
immoderate length of his pulpit addresses. I lodged with Capt 
Noyes. 

22. I visted Revd Cary,t & had familiar conversation on the un- 
happy disunion among the Clergy of the Town. They utterly re- 
fuse each other civilities, at least, a Mr Spring will not support a pall, 
or attend a funeral at which Mr Murray joins or officiates. With 
Mr J. Tracey, I went to Church it being Good Friday. Dr. Bass, the 
Parson, & intended Bishop. His countenance is pleasing, his reading 
good & his Sermon full of instruction. He is pleased with the wit 

*Rev. John Murray, the Presbyterian, popularly called "Damnation" Murray 
to distinguish him from "Salvation" Murray, his Universalist contemporary. 
tRev. Thomas Gary, pastor of the First Church at Newburyport. 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 117 

of Charles the 2d, & has the variety, but not ill nature of South. He 
entertained us with the character of Judas Iscariot. He observed all 
his faults with satyre, but of the price of his villany he observed, 
that it proved him a mean fellow, for as they would bid high for his 
friend, he ought to have made them pay dear for him at least, & not 
sell him in an hurry for 30 shillings, at a price below a horse, or 
even a dog. I dined with Mrs Maley, & spent an hour with my 
Classmate Kilham.* This Gentleman, possessed with good abilities, 
with a disposition not apt to conform to the world, & a zealous ante- 
federalist, is declining in his business under his own favorite passion. 
He informed me that our Classmate Rholf had preached, after a 
humble retirement & study of 15 years. We had not his perform- 
ances from Judges, his popularity is greater in his prayers, than in 
his Sermons. He is gone to Preach at Cambridge. At Mr Mycall's 
the printer, I find orthodox publications multiply. Besides the works 
of Mr Murray, & Dr Huntington above mentioned, Mr Murray is 
printing a sermon on the death of Blind Prince, a Clergyman who 
died at Newbury, & is buried in the vault with Whitefield. His most 
remarkable trait is blindness. But while our best sermons common- 
ly rise no higher than 400 at an impression, I am assured 1500 are 
engaged. A Mr Lyon of Machias, at the extreme part of Maine & 
a composer in Music, has published the first number of his daily 
meditations, including one month. It has Mr Murray's recommend- 
ation. A Mr Bradford of Rowley has also a Sermon in the press up- 
on total depravity. These events of the winter may enable us to 
judge the state of religious opinions at least in this part of the County. 
Mr Mycall proposed to reprint my Sermon delivered at Boston, from 
this circumstance that it was preached first in Newbury Port, & 
was deemed not to be Gospel. 

July 14, 1791. Went to Cape Ann to attend the association. 
Found very few members present, it being very hot. McKeen of 
Beverley was ready to preach on the accasion. A large Choir of 
Singers were collected from the several congregations. The Preacher 

*Dr. Daniel Kilham, born at Wenham, studied medicine with Dr. Holyoke of 
Salem, and became an apothecary at Newburyport. 



118 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

discoursed upon the doctrine of future punishment, the Subject, which 
since 1763 has kept the Town in confusion. He handled the subject 
without the least degree of ingenuity, & in a manner suited to affront 
one party & not gratify the other. Upon my return to the house I 
blamed the introduction of the subject, & the inconsistent manner in 
which it was located (sic). But I was alone. . . . After dinner 
we were introduced to drink tea at Mr Rogers', the first merchant in 
the place, who has a numerous family, & preserves unusual vivacity, 
while above sixty years of age. In the evening we were conducted 
to a Mr Sergeants' at whose house Music was prepared for the even- 
ing. There was a considerable number of gentlemen & Ladies & very 
handsome entertainment. The instrumental & vocal music were 
well performed. We have nothing like it in Essex. The Conviv- 
iality is remarkable. The pieces were of different classes. At eleven 
we retired. The hospitality of Capt Rogers secured me at his house, 
and the expectation of a chearful day to succeed, made a succession 
of very pleasurable emotions. He has a fine wife, & gay children, 
who contributed their full share to the entertainment, & the pleasure. 
15. This morning it was agreed to go to Eastern Point, which 
makes the entrance to the Harbour, above a mile below the Town. 
The harbour is formed by the Fort Hill, a little peninsular on the 
west, which projects boldly before the Town, & Rocky Neck which 
runs westerly from the eastern point. The entrance is not wide, 
but of sufficient depth of water. From the town is a ledge called 
Duncan's Ledge which runs towards Rocky Neck in a southerly di- 
rection, within which is the Head of the Harbour, a bason not much 
used, but which opens into a Cove in Rocky Neck, called Smuggling 
Harbour from a particular use made of it before the War. It runs 
also towards Sandy Bay & there might easily in a valley be formed an 
inlet, through a communication which the Sea sometimes has opened. 
About half a mile without the Fort Hill is "Tenpound Island," not 
containing an acre of ground, & between which & Eastern point there 
is a communication at the lowest tides, & many difficult rocks. Be- 
low on eastern point is a Ledge called Black Bess, & nearer the point 
Dog Rocks. Without the Point about one mile, eastward is Brace's 
Cove. It has a Bluff head on the western side, which is a large 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 119 

& lofty rock. It has a Ledge on the eastern side & Rocks without 
it. It has often proved fatal to mariners, & the Cove been mistaken 
for the entrance into Cape Ann Harbour. The Cove is clear after 
you are within the eastern Ledge. It enters almost half a mile, & 
by a narrow Beach is separated from a Pond, which extends almost 
across the eastern point, which is joined to the main by this Beach 
formed by the sea, a few rods wide, & by the road not much wider 
on the side towards Cape Ann Harbour. From Brace's Rock the 
lights at Thatcher's Islands are in full view, above a leagues distance. 
The Farm of Eastern point, purchased last year by Daniel Rogers, 
who was with us, is very rough. There is a delightful grove of Oaks, 
&c. within the point, to which company resorts and enjoys a fine air 
in the warmest weather. The Farm is very rough, affords pasture, 
but there was no tillage land beyond the Pond towards the Point. 
About 200 acres lay towards the point, & the rest, amounting to 300 
acres was sold together for 320 pounds. The tenant pays an annual 
rent of 27£. The House is on the road by the pond, after you have 
passed it going to eastern Point, not a mile from the Grove. Oppo- 
site to eastern Point at the entrance is a Rocky Shore called Norman's 
Woe, & about a league westerly near the shore may be seen Kettle 
Island, a small island, & a mile beyond on the same shore Egg rock, 
as you go towards Manchester. Our party consisted of above 60 
persons of both sexes. With Col Pearce in a skif we caught several 
dozen of perch, & after two we dined in a friendly manner. Another 
party in a Sloop larger than our own furnished us with Cod from the 
Bay, & after dinner till Tea parties were engaged in Walking, danc- 
ing, singing, & Quoiting, & Swinging & every amusement we could 
imagine. The Poets story of Twandillo was realized. There was 
but one instrument of Music with us, which was a fiddle brought by 
its owner to pick up a few coppers. To see him play with it upon 
his head, under his arm, &c., furnished a pleasure which the happi- 
ness of ignorance may innocently occasion. 

Hark, — his tortured catgut squeals 
He tickles every string, to every note 
He bends his pliant neck. — 
The fond yielding Maid 
Is tweedled into Love. 



120 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

We set out about ten in the morning, and arrived before nine in 
the evening safe at the same v/harf. And what deserves notice, not 
a single accident, not an angry word, occasioned the least interrup- 
tion to so large a party. The principal Gentlemen were in this party, 
Daniel Rogers, Esqr, his two sons John & Charles, Capts Soames, 
Tucker, Sargeant, Beach, Col. Pearce, Major Pearson, Master Harkin, 
Mr Parsons, &c. I went to Tea at Capt Beach's elegant House near 
the meeting House, & was conducted into the several apartments 
to observe the neatness which prevailed under the pretence of exam- 
ining an excellent collection of pictures. On the day before I had 
visited his excellent & large Family Garden, & Rope walk. I lodged 
at Esqr Rogers, who collected his family & finished the scene by an 
act of devotion. 

16. In the morning I arose before the family, & set off for home, 
& breakfasted at Manchester, & reached Salem after eleven. While 
we were on eastern point, another party, with whom was the Revd 
Mr Murray went into the Bay after Cod & continued off the point all 
day. The religious controversy is not so far settled as to admit a 
coalition between the Clergymen, tho' it is greatly promoted among 
the people. Passing a farm house in Manchester I observed a young 
girl of 14 years, & asked what the name of the rock was directly be- 
fore the door, about 1/4 of a mile from the shore. She answered 
she had never heard, & seemed to wonder at the question. Was this 
ignorance, in her, or impertinence in myself? 

******** 

Aug. 8, 1791. Went with a party to Baker's Island [Salem harbor] 
to bring away the tools, materials, &c. which remained after the 
finishing of the Beacon. We were in a deep fog on our passage down 
but we hit the island most exactly. The Beacon is 57 feet to the 
top of the Ball, of two feet diameter, & the Ball is painted black, ex- 
cept a part on the top which was neglected & remains v/hite. The 
Body is conical & upon a diameter of nineteen feet, to the altitude 
of 10 feet is formed a convenient room. The door is on the south, 
narrow, & painted red, as is the building, but the battens at the 
door, white, that it might more easily be found. The window with 
a shutter is on the east, a foot square, & there is no other provision 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 121 

made for ventilating it. Of this I complained but we attempted in 
vain to get into the dead flat projection of the head, of one foot, into 
which many holes ought to have been made. The projection of the 
head was to have been round, but as there were objections to clap- 
boarding, it was shingled, & so is reduced to an octagon form like 
the Cone of the Building, & each length of shingling into so many 
small projections, amounting to four. It has an awkward effect. 
The whole is a generous & otherwise well executed design. The 
foundation stones are very miserably laid. Upon the island, I tra- 
versed the whole, there are a few miserable remains of the House 
which was in good order since I can well remember. The Barn has 
left its sills, & the top entire stands upon the naked posts. From 
the house, northeasterly a few rods, are the remains of the well, & 
along the stone wall, which crosses the island, near the barn, till you 
reach the eastern shore & then find the spring of excellent water, 
which supplies the cattle. Our amusement was to form a raft of 
spars, boards, &c. to bring off the shingles, waste boards, ropes, «S:c., 
a full load & we enjoyed the employment tho' a wet one. We were 
without tinder, & to remedy the defect we rubbed a piece of pine 
coal, till we reached the part not entirely charred, & we had desirable 
success. A plenty of fish & fine appetites. We observed the channel 
between Eagle Island, & the Gooseberries, entering between Baker's 
Island & Hardy Rocks. Eagle Island is said to have contained, a 
few years since, 4 acres of mowing land, & three acres are said to 
be upon Nahant Rock. Coney Island has but one & 1/2, of little 
use, the grass being very coarse, & the soil stoney. The Goose- 
berries have a little verdure with fine effect. And the Bank of Eagle 
Island being covered with verdure, & of a sudden slope, has a very 
good effect. We returned & landed at sundown, with Mr Wards 
boat, at his Wharf. Our Commander was Capt B. West, & Capt W. 
Patterson, our Crew, Capts Elkins & Chipman, with the Carpenters 
& Servants, six in number. We went with pleasure, & returned 
pleased. 

•F '^ 'T* T^ V •!• If! -(C 

Aug. 29, 1791. At Mr W. Gray's request I undertook to convey 
in Newhall's Coach three young Frenchmen to the Dummer Academy 



122 REV. WILLLWf BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

under the care of the Reverend Isaac Smith. Their names vrere 
Barrett, Bonneville, & Morin, all of Martinico, & addressed to Mr 
Gray. We arrived at 11 at the Academy. Just before there had 
been two french youth from Newbury Port, but the disputes became 
so high from the turbulent temper of one of them, as to throw the 
whole Academy into confusion. The youth had this day retired, & 
the alarm was yet in all its violence from the bold threatenings cf 
the french youth. After a fair representation I engaged a Mr Hale 
to receive them, & the Preceptor admitted them members of the 
Academy. The common price of board pr week is 6/, of Tuition 
one. There are above 300 acres of lands laying within the Arms cf 
Parker River, which constitutes the foundation of Governor Dummer, 
& forms the principal support of the Preceptor. The Mansion House 
is a bold object, & is put into good repair. The rooms are divided 
very unequally, but from their height, & connection with a large 
entry, do not fail of a very good effect. The Academy is repaired, 
& the whole forms a good object. Tho' the Building is not equal to 
Andover, the Group is as pleasing. I dined with the Preceptor, and 
after 3 o'clock set out on my return. I found at Rowley the meeting 
House filled with people, & upon enquiry, I learnt that a M. Milton, 
a pupil of Lady Huntington, was to make the prayer and a Mr James, 
a noted travelling Methodist, was to preach. We should not imagine 
our boasted liberality was real, if we should see the country upon a 
particular scale. On our return towards Wenham, we saw the three 
fine boys which came a few years since at a birth, sporting together 
on the side of the road. We did not know this circumstance of their 
birth, till their good manners made us enquire after them of the 
Coachman. We reached Salem at Sundown, & was informed on the 
road, that the French youth Duval de Monville, who had lived with 
me, had died not long since. The information is said to be by a 
Brother at Newbury. 

Sept. 13, 1791. I went for Fuller's, Gloucester, in company with 
Mr MacKeen. We passed by way of upper Beverley in Monserat 
quarter. The road for three miles is ver>' good, upon Taylor's turn- 
ing to the left not so good, till we come to Dodge's Row, on Wenham 



REV. WILLLAJVI BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 123 

Neck. We then passed to the right over a bridge through the mea- 
dows, covered with some excellent Willows. We then left a Road 
to Little Comfort on the right, & proceeded to Chabacco. Till we 
reached the Pond, the road is tolerable, & at some distance beyond. 
Here we saw a rope-walk, but could not be informed by whcm em- 
ployed, & in what manner. It was a curious object at this distance 
from a port, tho' it might be of special use in the small cordage of 
the Fishery below. After entering Chebacco, the road is winding, & 
we arrive at a Bridge, considerably high, tho' small, & the descent 
is relieved by cross pieces, which give not a very pleasing motion to 
a carriage. We then pass a causeway over the marshes, nearly 1/4 
of a mile, which being left low to be overflowed by the tide, & formed 
with cross pieces, many of whose ends now rise from the ground. 
& the stones being loose on the top, make a very uneasj'' passage. 
We turned in 1/4 of a mile to the left, & continued in that course 
two miles, till we reached the foot of the hill, then leaving the road 
to the left our course was over the hill. But for a year past the old 
road, has been cut by the rain which in torrents has cut it out be- 
tween the rocks several feet, & a road is made through a gate on the 
right, through which we might pass. But separating from my 
Companion, I took a little boy into my Sulkey as a guide, who leav- 
ing me at the foot of the hill, took a path to the left, & as they use 
no chaises, directed me in the foot path in the old road. I endea- 
voured to mount a most frightful hill, & soon getting out of my 
Sulkey, was obliged to lead the trembling beast up to the summit, 
with no other injury than his treading upon one of my feet which 
gave me considerable pain. Below the hill was the place of our 
destination. We found the Parson with a large family in the vale 
of Contentment, & a most frightful country. At twelve we went 
to the meeting. I performed the prayers, & Brother Prince 
the Sermon. There was a very neat congregation. The music was 
very good, & a propriety of conduct became subject of general ob- 
servation. After dinner, & some familiar conversation, the terrors 
of the road, & the hurr[y]ing night came into our minds. Three 
only of the company had resolution to set out. Brother Hubbard & I 
being in Sulkeys, & McKeen on Horseback, were directed from the 



124 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

top of the Hill to the left, & by consulting each other in a mile's dis- 
tance we reached Squam road, & the Road to the Harbour, entring 
on the right by a Mill, & were directed to enquire for Haskell's the 
Hatter, if we ever visited the place again. Here we found a Hatter 
shop on the right, & on the left a decent House of entertainment, 
with a sign of a "Bird in the Hand is worth two in the Bush." We 
continued this road till we came to the place at which we turned to 
the left in going & then pursued our former rout, home. We stopped 
at McKeen's at Tea, & there I left Mr Hubbard, & returned home 
alone at half past nine. Mr. McKeen judges his Meeting House to 
be above 40 feet elevation from high water mark, & of greater ele- 
vation than the Meeting House of the upper Parish. We remarked 
the deception upon plains of distance, & the account of the Hunts- 
men, that a fouling piece requires a greater elevation in the meadows, 
because the earth & water draws down the bullet. Bee's, Coy's, 
Round & Gravelly Ponds are not on this Road, but the great Che- 
bacco Pond on our right going to Chebacco, is between us & them. 
I wished to see them, & if time would have permitted should have 
attempted it. The Methodists have given a very serious alarm to 
the Orthodox. Cleveland has abused them in the Ipswich Hamlet 
pulpit, upon a lecture to which he was invited by Dr Cutler. At 
Manchester there was a curious interview. Some of the inhabitants, 
wishing to hear the Methodists, proposed in town meeting, that up- 
on the application of two freeholders the Committee should be obliged 
to open the meeting house to any Preachers they should chuse to 
introduce. It was not thought prudent to deny this request, & there- 
fore when the vote was passed it was proposed to qualify it with the 
clause, provided no regularly ordained minister of the neighborhood 
should be in Town. It was accepted in this form. Soon after Lee 
& Smith, the Methodists sent word that they should be in town & 
preach on the ensuing Wednesday. Notice was given to Cleveland 
& Oliver to be present at that time, & they were ready. Cleveland 
preached first, & soon at a very short intermission Mr Oliver. The 
Methodists in the intermission learnt the trick, & after some idle 
debates upon inability, election, itinerancy, &c., they told the people 
that thay should preach in the School House, & accordingly the two 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 125 

services began at the same time, but a majority attended the Meth- 
odists, offering this reason that the other preaching was out of spight. 
The Methodists have preached at Ipswich, in the several paiishes, 
Newbury, &c. The Orthodox who have proclaimed a work of God 
going on in the Southern States, having now found out that it was 
promoted by the Methodists, have covered in silence their mistake, 
having confessed that Satan may be transformed into an Angel of 
Light. The poor Anabaptists are now left in silence, & will prob- 
ably diminish as the sentiments of the Methodists so happily blend 
a liberality on the five points, with as much experience as enthusiasm 
can beget. The doctrine of Itinerancy forms a dreadful puzzle with 
the orthodox, who are smarting dreadfully under the lash, & are 
convinced that they set the example. 

Sept. 16, 1791. This day being appointed for the review in Marble- 
head, I went in company with my Frenchman & John to observe the 
conduct of the day. We arrived at ten o'clock, & found the Com- 
panies just entering the parade. They formed, were inspected by 
D. A. Tracey, & afterwards reviewed by B. G. Fiske. As Marblehead 
is a town composed of all nations, instructed in various religious 
superstitions, which have left no other than the same fears, without 
any light to enable them to enter into controversies, with their in- 
structions, which are rather their fears playing upon their credulity, 
they have so little knowledge of moral life, that they are as profane, 
intemperate, & ungoverned as any people on the Continent. From 
this general character, for there are some noble exceptions, every 
person expected entertainment from the folly which the day would 
exhibit. But the disappointment was great. The regiment under 
the Command of Col. Orne, junr. consisted of above 300 privates in 
seven companies, with officers all in a blue uniform, with a white 
standard, bearing in the quarter the blue stripes. The men were 
all decently clad. The firearms were rusty & chiefly without bayo- 
nets, but not disgustful. When dismissed there was some firing off 
pieces, but not such as might be expected from men who had been 
accustomed to this fault in an alarming excess. We were escorted 
by a proper guard at one o'clock to the Academy to a public dinner. 



126 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

at which 110 persons were received, & sumptuously entertained. 
Col. Lee, whose elegant house is on the parade, gave us a Collation 
at 4 o'clock in a very polite & generous manner. At dinner every 
propriety was observed. After dinner the Toasts were drank. The 
Commander of the day condescended in the manner of the place to 
give us a song in turn, while Major Swazey, Mr Sewall, Capt Orne in 
turn assisted in the same entertainment. They could not desist frcm 
liberties usually taken on such occasions to flatter national prejudices 
at the expence of other nations, & as I had a Frenchman with me, 
Col. Orne asked whether a Song upon the French might not be apol- 
ogised for to my friend. I told him that my friend was young, of a 
good family, but present upon his courtesy. However, Mr Sewall 
was betrayed into the error of singing a burlesque song, for which 
his exquisite feelings gave him adequate punishment upon discovery 
that a Frenchman was present & he made most humble apologies. 
Col. Orne senior, in his own manner said, tell the young man that 
when this same old English song was sung before a General Officer 
in public company, this generous Frenchman, with a laugh replied, 
"Dis was no make by de Frenchman." My young friend all this 
while knew little of the matter. It is however a warning against 
the illiberality of ballads & the humble prejudices they are designed 
to support, which ought to disappear when the light of good sense 
& friendly society appear. A Capt Homans entertained us with a 
most exact imitation of low life, in the most indelicate, honest, but 
vile language of low life, for which he deserved the shouts in the 
execution, but a whipping under the gallows when the story was 
ended. After the toasts at three o'clock, we returned in procession 
to the parade, & the afternoon was spent in evolutions. First with 
Revd Hubbard, & then in company with Col. Orne, I visited the Fish 
Flakes which were covered with this staple of the Town. In our 
view from one point were 79 vessels, of which 2 were Brigs, the rest 
chiefly fishing Schooners, & only 4 of them at the wharves. The 
ship with Jury masts was riding at the entrance of the harbour. 
There are but two places in this Town convenient for wharves, each 
of them I visited. They are about an eighth of a mile apart. No 
wharves have piers to afford two berths on a side, or room for two 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 127 

vessels on a side. The lane leading to the principal is at the lower 
end of the Town House, which is boarded up on the lower story, & 
much shattered above. The best Cove is said to be red stone cove 
at the upper part of the Town, & just below an head, which I visited, 
& whose name I forgot. The cove is named from the colour of the 
rock. 

The success of the Fishery has been great this year, but greater 
in Beverley than in Marblehead in the proportion of the shipping. 
The difference is imputed to the effects of privateering upon the 
manners in Marblehead & not to the care in fitting vessels for the 
fishery. Beverly has fitted out 30 Vessels, and the last fare now in, 
is above 500 quintals to a Vessel, amounting at the lowest compu- 
tation to 15,000 quintals. Marblehead has fitted out 80 Vessels, of 
the same burden, & the success has not been above 300 quintals to 
a Vessel or about 25,000 quintals, the whole fare. Beverley never 
went so fully into the fishery before the war, & it is believed that it 
never had in it the same quantity of fish at the same time. The 
proportion of Salem, who do not enter largely into this business, 
I have not ascertained, but will do it at a convenient opportunity. 
At Sundown I was introduced into the family of Col Lee at Tea. He 
has eight children & a very obliging wife. This gentleman has a 
very excellent person, & was highly esteemed in the Continental 
Army, & particularly by our illustrious Commander in chief. His 
want of promotion in the Militia depends on himself. After Tea, 
tho' solicited to tarry at a public Supper, I declined in apprehension, 
from the manners of the people. I reached Salem at seven o'clock. 
I saw at a distance the work on the neck, which forms a barrier 
against the Sea, but had not time to visit it. The Lottery has left, I 
am informed, something in stock, for future repairs. 

An anecdote of the Rev : Bernard, the Bishop of the place, is, that 
on public trainings, he would carry his pockets loaded with Coppers, 
to throw to the Boys, to entertain himself with their exertions to 
catch, or to find them. This was the ostentatious virtue of the age, 
in which he lived, & passed as generosity, not diversion. It is said 
there is an admirable likeness of this eminent man yet remaining in 
his Mansion house which I had not time to see. I went into the 



128 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

cupola, upon the elevated seat of Col Lee to enjoy the extensive view 
he has from that convenient place, but the air was not suf!iciently 
clear for the purpose. I could see enough to believe the repre- 
sentation just. They have a seven foot Telescope in fine order, & 
they declare that they see the people pass to church in the streets of 
Salem on Sunday, such a command have they of the Town. I ob- 
served that the Beacon on Baker's Island looks directly up their 
Harbour. 

17. The Head above red stone cove in Marblehead is called 
Skinner's Head, from the owner, & the head below not of so bold 
projection into the harbor, & not so dangerous to Mariners, or to 
vessels driven from their Anchors, is Barthol's Head, which is of much 
greater elevation. The land is exceedingly rough, & they use no 
wheels in these flakes. The wharves below the town house are 
called the New Wharves in distinction from those above. 
******** 

April 4, 1792. It being the day appointed for the ordination of 

Mr A. Parish at Manchester, upon the invitation of Mr Lee I went 

for Manchester in company with my french pupil Mr Igout about 

nine o'clock. We arrived between ten & eleven, & after twelve the 

Council appeared for the services. The House being both small & 

weak, & the day uncommonly warm & pleasant, the Services were 

performed in front of the Meeting House upon a scafford raised for 

the purpose. The solemnities were introduced by a prayer from 

Mr Cleaveland of Stoneham. His Father of Ipswich being Moderator. 

The Sermon was delivered by the Brother of the Pastor elect, Mr E. 

Parish of Byfield, Newbury, the ordaining prayer by Mr Cleveland of 

Ipswich, the Charge after ordination by Mr Forbes of Cape Ann. 

The prayer after the Charge by Mr Dana of Ipswich, & the Right 

Hand of Fellowship was given by Mr MacKeen. The Services were 

performed with decency, & listened to by the people v/ith great good 

order. After dinner to accomodate my frenchman I went to Cape 

Ann, in company with the second son of Col. Pierce, who had been in 

France & conversed with my pupil. We were received with the 

hospitality of the place. We took Tea at Col. Pearce's. His wife is 

a plain domestic woman, out of health. Mrs Williams, a daughter 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 129 

whose husband is in the E. Indies, lives with them with three children. 
Mrs Beach, an other daughter, whose husband is in England, who is 
yet in the vigour of life, gave us her company, & rendered herself 
very agreable. After supper I went to Esqr Rogers' and lodged with 
him. 

5. Breakfasted with Col. Pearce, & after breakfast went with 
him to see his Spermaceti works, his Distillery and the numerous 
artisans whom he employs. That morning arrived a shallop from the 
Bay, out 48 hours, which brought in several hundred fish, & were in 
the act of preparing them for the flakes. We then went to Mrs 
Beach's. They are preparing their garden which is rather too narrow 
but of considerable length, & which will be excellent when finished. 
In the middle is a fine fish pond. On the north side is the Rope walk 
in fine order layed in a bed of clay. In the mansion, which I have 
repeatedly visited, we have in the great entry & chambers elegantly 
in frames & glass all the representations & cuts of Cooke's Voyages, 
besides a full portrait of Capt Beach upon an eminence, with a paint- 
ing of the death of Hector. At the Father's we have an Italian view 
taken from a painting in the Pamphili palace at Rome, richly coloured. 
Mrs Beach afterwards favoured us with her company at dinner. She 
is a fine woman. I visited Charles Rogers & saw his fine wife. At 
two we set out upon our return, after many promises of another 
visit, & reached Manchester. There we heard of the intentions of Mr 
Toppan of Newbury, son of the former minister, to preach a lecture 
in the evening. His fame being great, & I never having heard him, 
I consented to tarry, & was obliged to offer the last prayer of the 
service. The first time I ever spoke in a Meeting House by candle 
light. The sermon on Abraham's offering up Isaac was meritorious. 
We lodged at Mrs. Hannah Lee's. 

6. After Breakfast returned to Salem & arrived at 1/2 past 8. 

******** 

May 15, 1792. Rode with Miss N. B. into Danvers, where we spent 
an agreable day with a pleasing company of Country Lasses. We 
walked, we sung, we played, & time never hung heavy upon our 
hands. We saw the good Parson planting opposite to his house. 
The head of the family was taken in distress & adopted, & does not 



130 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

know his parentage. The Children are of three sorts, & are inter- 
marrying, as the present is a third wife, & the wives had children 
by other husbands. A Mrs W. was with us, who married a young 
Carpenter by occupation, who went with an associate, her present 
husband, to Carolina, & made an agreement that should he die first, 
the other should take his widow. After his death his friend sent 
the account with the agreement, & he is now married. He enter- 
tained us with some sentimental songs. There was a raising in the 
neighborhood this afternoon, which prevented us from the company 
of the Parson. The river running from Reading to Ipswich passes 
near this house. We were decently mired in looking for Cranberries. 
We reached Salem at nine in the evening. 



June 22, 1792. By invitation from Mr Derby the Clergy spent this 
afternoon at the Farm in Danvers. We were regaled at our arrival, 
after the best liquors at the house, with a feast in his Strawberry 
beds. They were in excellent order, & great abundance. He measured 
a berry, which was 2 inches 1/2 in circumference. We saw 
whole nurseries of Trees, such as Buttons, fruit trees, & the Mulberry, 
of the last we had from him the following account. He takes the 
fruit very ripe, dries it, then pulverises it, & sows it in rows, as other 
small seed, & it grows above an inch the first year, & in five years, 
is eight & ten feet high by transplanting. This garden is much im- 
proved since I was here last. We saw Potatoes called early, brought 
from the Nova Scotia, & upon opening the hills, they were large as 
eggs at the present time. The slugs & worms do injury to his fruit. 
Besides the garden we saw a great variety of animal life. The 
Swan, a stranger among us, from Virginia. The Cape of Good Hope 
Sheep with their remarkable tails, weighing 5 pounds, & used by 
the inhabitants as butter, but of very delicate fat. The Garden is 
on our right as we went westerly from the house, & the barns, nurs- 
ery, &c. on the left. We went down to the New farm, where we saw 
in pleasing contentment some old domestic servants enjoying at ease 
the remainder of their days. As our company was mixt, we had not 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 131 

much familiar conversation. The German Gardner* is yet upon the 
Farm. At Coffee we had excellent radishes, bread, & butter, & 
cheese from the Farm. The Cheese equal to any in Europe. A pair 
of fine Horses carried the waggon to the Farm, & gave an unusual 
stateliness to the conveyance. Return at Sundown. Mr Derby re- 
ceived us with all that attention, & bounty, which gratify ,while they 
distroy not the affections. We envied nothing but his liberality to 
us, because we wished to do the same things. 

March 5, 1793. This day being the day on which the Tyrian 
Lodge at Cape Ann meets, I determined to persevere tho' the weather 
was foul, to accomplish the business of the Grand Lodge in Essex. 
The roads were bad, & after the civilities of Manchester, the French 
Gentleman, who accompanied me, dined with me at Major Craft's, 
the public house. After dinner, through this horrible road we con- 
tinued on to Cape Ann, where we arrived in the afternoon. I could 
not refrain from observing that the appearance was very different 
from that the Town assumes from the confluence of Strangers on 
public festivals & days of rejoicing. There was too much complain- 
ing for a belief of a general content. In the evening I was conduct- 
ed to the Lodge convened in an upper chamber, by a Committee, & 
received with every civility. With the utmost coolness I waved every 
dispute, & proposed the object of my conference, a permanent union 
of interests in the present Grand Lodge. They then chose a Com- 
mittee of five persons, & ordered the Secretary to report their pro- 
ceedings to the Grand Lodge. This Committee is to deliberate on 
the subject, & report to the Lodge their opinion. We then had an 
elegant Collation, & after supper some choice songs, & retired. 

6. This day was spent in visits to Revd Forbes, the Rogers, Pierces, 
&c. Mr Beach introduced me to his Brother, arrived with his family 
from Bristol, a Tobacconist, an intelligent man, & furnished with a 
very good Library, from which he spared for my perusal Martin's 
diet, of Natural History, ornamented with figures highly coloured. 

*George Heussler, a German who previously had been at the Tracy estate at 
Newburyport and was "the first man who ever lived in Salem in the character of 
a regularly bred gardener." 



132 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

We were received in the best manner at Captain Beach's ; & he de- 
serves our gratitude. We saw here specimens of the Cornwall ores. 
After dinner we went with Mr Rogers to see his farm of 300 acres at 
eastern Point. Mr Rowe, the Attorney, & Son in Law of Mr Rogers 
accompanied us. The road was horrible, & my young companion 
after travelling across the neck to view the Thatcher's Island lights 
accompanied me into the Town on foot, both of us dreading to ride 
back through such dangerous passes. In the evening there was an 
assembly, at which my young companion attended. He gave me a 
very humorous account. They had six candles, 12 ladies, 7 gentle- 
men, a black fiddler for 2s. & a fifer for Is. 6. Both sexes partook 
of the grog provided on the occasion. 

7. In the morning we breakfasted at Mr Beach's & we had the 
company of the two English young Ladies, Daughters of Mr Beach 
of Bristol. The greatest propriety distinguished this social hour. 
At 10, we left Cape Ann & reached Manchester, & dined, & at 2 
o'clock arrived again at Salem. We were told at Cape Ann, that 
they could with difficulty provide hands for their bankers,* from the 
general persuasion that the Bay boats were more lucrative, & from 
observing the success of Sandy Bay, Squam, & Chebacco. Beach's 
rope walk was in great good order. Sergeant's now shut up, it is 
said, is sold to D. Plummer. Pearce has had several good Whale 
voyages, & a Ship lay ready to sail for the Cape of Good Hope. He 
expects to set his Sperma Ceti works agoing again. His distillery 
has stopped, during the winter. The Meeting House is repaired. 
******** 

March 19, 1793. It having rained in the morning, I delayed set- 
ting out for Newbury Port till eleven, & upon the road was informed 
that the funeral of the Revd J. Murray, of Newbury Port, would be 
attended this evening. The roads were as bad, as they ever are, & 
after having dined at Ipswich I could not reach Newbury Port till 
after 4 o'clock. Upon my arrival I found the people in the Meeting 
House, & with difficulty heard the close of the last prayer, & the 
Singing. I was informed that the first prayer was by Dr Langdon, 
of Hampton, the Address by Mr Whittimore of Stratham, & the last 

*The Grand Banks fishing fleet. 



•1 




cr Q^ 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 133 

prayer by Mr Morrison of Londonderry. The order of the day was 
read from the pulpit by Mr Tombe, now preaching in the Congrega- 
tion. After service the procession formed for the Burial ground, in 
which Mr Murray requested to be interred, rather than in the Tomb 
under the Pulpit with Mr Whitefield, Parsons & Prince. The easy 
access to it, had rendered it exposed to indecent freedoms which dis- 
gusted him. In the procession first went the Church, Deacons, & 
Elders, & the Clergy present on the occasion. Then the corps sup- 
ported by young men of the Congregation, & the pall supported by 
Dr Langdon, Dr Bass, Dr Haven, McClintock, Mr Euwer, & Mr Mor- 
rison. Then followed the relations & friends. Above 350 couple 
were in the procession & crowds in the street. Above 6,000 people 
were collected on the occasion. After the service I spent the evening 
agreably & lodged at Doctor Swett's. Dr Swett assured me that Mr 
Murray discovered firmness till the close of life, spent the time in ex- 
horting his friends, who crowded round his dying bed, & could not be 
prevented by the most earnest remonstrances of his friends, & the 
physicians. Mr Murray gave them to sing in his house the 33 & 75 
Hymns of the 2d Book, Watts. 

20. After breakfast with Capt Noyes I rode up to the bridge over 
the Merrimack, & confess myself much pleased with plan & the ob- 
ject. The execution is equal to the design. The proportions I had 
already seen. The Island may be rendered delightful & there is a 
public House already erected by the proprietors of the Bridge upon 
the Island, & it is nearly finished. As yet it has produced nearly 
double to the simple interest of the money, but how far curiosity, & 
the openness of the winter, by which the ice has been impassable, 
may come into the account, cannot yet be determined. I returned 
& dined in company with the Mr Traceys, & Jackson & Dr Swett, 
with Col. Wigglesworth. He is a hospitable man, sui generis. His 
little daughter gave us some pleasing specimens of her music in sing- 
ing. In the evening we visited St Peter's Lodge. The reception was 
kind. The tables diagonally placed, the company too numerous for 
the tables, the room badly illuminated. The lodge was opened & 
closed with Prayer. The Master M. Gale. Spent evening at Dr 
Swetts with some french company. 



134 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

21. Breakfasted with Mr J. Tracey, spent Morning with Mr Jackson 
& Dr Bass, & rode to the Academy* & dined with the Preceptor. 
The road was very bad, & clayey, & a violent snow storm came on 
which lasted all day. The Academy is much repaired, a new white 
balustrade fence is before the Mansion House. The Old School built 
for M. Moody, & since a writing school, is neglected. It contains only 
the great desk provided by Mr Moody for the Academy chamber, 
which is now cleared for exhibitions. There are about 20 youth at 
the Academy, & the Preceptor is a man of great diligence. He usu- 
ally preaches in the Academy on Sundays. In the evening I was re- 
ceived at Swasey's Tavern by a Committee from the Unity Lodge in 
Ipswich. The members present were the Master Col. Wade, the Sec- 
retary Major Burnham, & Major Swasey, & Capt. Dodge. They rep- 
resented their Lodge as having only 12 members & seemed more re- 
tarded by the smallness of their numbers than any other cause. In 
the war their members exceeded forty. Capt. Dodge was with me 
in the Convention, & still seemed wounded with the idea of working 
under modern masons, an idea which had been expressed with some 
warmth by B. Boardman, past Master, in St Peter's Lodge. It was 
agreed to give me Letters A I found afterwards to pay my expenses. 
We supped together, & I enjoyed the Company of a very respectable 
Committee. 

22. Rose early, & after breakfast returned home. The roads 
very bad. Newbury Port is evidently flourishing. Many new houses 
in high Street ; & Stores opening on account of the position of the 
Bridge three miles above the Town. Several french families here, 
& a greater number of emigrants than in any other place except 
Boston. Great West India Trade. The Anabaptists, & Miltonians 
are preparing for a harvest upon the death of Mr Murray, who 
united the lower classes of people. Mr Bancroft has resigned the 
Town Grammar School, & Master Rogers has engaged to enter upon 
it next Monday. He engaged with the greatest prepossessions in 
his favour. He has taught writing & reading, & therefore he certain- 
ly can teach Latin, & Greek. The teaching by Duncan's Cicero, & 
Davidson's Virgil is so common, said the Preceptor of Dummer Acad- 

*Dummer Academy at Byfield Parish. 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 135 

emy to me, that no other School Books are to be found. The Select 
Orations of Tully, without a version cannot be purchased. The new 
way is taught at the Andover Academy. 

April 23, 1793. Set off for Tewkesbury to visit my old Landlady. 
Did not easily recollect the road in Danvers, which turned off 1 1/2 
mile to the left, & again about 3 miles at a house projecting at the 
angle. Keeping to the right directly. After stopping at the Widow 
Upton's found the left hand direct road, the highest, not the best, & 
when I came within sight of the precinct Meeting house of Reading, 
I turned to the right & came out by the meeting house, when 70 rods 
nearer, I might have kept on & come out at the public house, 1/2 a 
mile beyond the Meeting House. After having passed Wilmington 
above a mile past Esqr Ford's on turning to the right I passed be- 
tween the House & Barn which were the second on the road, then 
kept to the left, & upon passing the Shawshin rode upon the banks 
of the River to the Mills & to Boardman's. After dinner I rode on 
to Andover through Tewkesbury woods. It is five miles from Board- 
man's to the South Meeting. The road direct. Some danger of 
turning to the right. Passed the Shawshin below the south meet- 
ing house, which was then a beautiful stream. I stopped at the 
meeting House lately finished & obtained entrance. The exterior 
appearance is the best. The house is crowded within & has no pleas- 
ing appearance from the proportions. It has a pendant canopy, & 
an inscription over the pulpit. Holiness becomes thy house Lord, 
forever. The communion Table is in what we called the Elder's 
seat. So that we find the desenters begin to inclose & we are told 
as to the discipline they enclose in this place with a vengeance. The 
way to mount the Tower is not convenient. The Bell is in the Tower, 
& too much enclosed. It is a fine Bell, & is the gift of Samuel Abbot 
Esqr whose name is upon it with this Inscription. To all the people 
I do call, & to the grave do summon all. It is deep toned, & excel- 
lent. The lantern, as it is called, upon the dome has not so good an 
effect, as I should have wished for so much expence. There are a 
number of fine houses in the great road which have a fine effect up- 
on the Traveller, & astonish him noticeably with the idea of ease by 



136 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

affluence. The farms have great neatness, & convenience. I then 
went on to Mr Isaac Parker's & Col. Lovejoy's at the entrance 
of a Lane about 1/4 of a mile on the south side of the South Meet- 
ing House. I found in one a good farmer &; in the other a very at- 
tentive Gentleman. The farmer has everything in order around 
him, & much of that facetiousness which makes the most laborious 
employment set easy. He has a wife & four very young daughters 
very agreeable. The family were baptised by me last fall. An aged 
father, trembling with the palsy in the limbs, & helpless, with a good 
countenance bore ample testimony by his language & appearance 
to the fidelity of his children. He had been an old soldier in the 
french wars & had a very open, & engaging look. The son had 
been in the American naval service in the last Civil war of America. 
At this house, which is furnished with a large chamber, this evening 
a company of 20 couple were to assemble for dancing & amuse- 
ment. They visit this house for these purposes in classes, accord- 
ing to their ages, not with any regard to their condition, as in the 
Seaport Towns. They seperated at the usual hours of Assem- 
blies. They have Violins & flutes for their music, & sometimes the 
drum. For the convenience of Lodging after Tea I went to Col. 
Lovejoy's. He conducted me to the North meeting house, which 
was built 40 years ago. The order of the Door has not that appear- 
ance which the improvements in architecture would give it at this 
day. The hipped roof of the Porch I prefer to the pediment of the 
new House. The steeple is too small as it rises from the dome, but 
the ill effect has been lessened since the late repairs by diminishing 
the shaft above. The interior view of this house from the conven- 
ience of parts makes it look larger than the other house, & it is 
much better finished throughout. The swell of the pulpit is not suffici- 
ently large but the whole has a good effect. They have a clock up- 
on the front gallery, & a very excellent one in the Steeple with point- 
ers. The pendulum is not hung with ease, but the clock is good. 
The bell of about 500 Wt is sharp & clear, a good tone. We returned 
to the Col's & after familiar chat we retired in good season. 

24. This morning we rose & rode 3 miles towards the river. 
Then walked to the place intended for the New Bridge, & for which 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 137 

the Banks are cut down to move the Timber, & here we saw the 
people on each side seining for Salmon & other fish. We saw a 1000 
alewives caught in one draught. They had taken one salmon of 20 
wt : pick [er] el, shad, suckers, &c. Their method was in a flat boat 
of about 14 feet in length, & three in breadth with a wide stem, up- 
on which is a table for the seine, which is furnished with scuppers 
to void the water. With this they go up the eddy formed by a pro- 
jection of rocks & logs into the river, & then row violently into the 
stream [and] discharge the net from the stern. On the shore two 
men hold the rope fastened to the seine & begin instantly to draw 
down. The men in the boat quicken the motion of the boat in the 
stream till the whole seine is drawn from the boat & then make to- 
wards the shore, the rope from the boat to the seine being about 3 
times the length of the boat, as is the length of the wood, which 
forms the eddy. The men on the shore continue to draw down till 
they have come within 100 feet of the boatmen, & then draw the 
ends of the seine upon the shore. Then they pull up the seine, clear- 
ing it as it comes up within a few feet of the shore. Then they rest 
a few minutes till the fish cease their furious slapping in the water, 
& then they empty the seine, & begin again. The Seine is about 
100 feet long. It is sunk at bottom by the leads, & floated at top 
by wooden buoys, 2 feet distance. The intertexture of the lines is 
called the Marish. The middle of this seine was of the alewife 
marish, of a smaller texture than the other parts. We received a 
dozen of the alewives from the fishermen, who sold them at 2s/ pr. 
100, or as caught in the brooks, by the order of the Town, at a pistar- 
een. The vote of the Town last year was that a committee should 
be chosen to fish in the brooks at the Town charge, & the fish were 
to be delivered at a pistareen pr. 100. We left the river & then rode 
through the woods, which are of pine shrubs, & exhibit a melancholy 
contrast to the other parts of the town. The buildings, the inhabi- 
tants, & the animals, all shew the unfavourable soil upon which they 
are employed. After a zigzag ride of four miles, repeatedly crossing 
the sweet stream of the Shawshin, which here finished its course in 
the Merrimack, we arrived at the Paper Mills erected upon this river, 
& found them in great order. The vats below, the two mills above, 



138 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

the conveyance of the water, the various employments of the persons 
at work, of both sexes, gave pleasing entertainment. The drying 
rooms were large, & convenient upon every account. The powder 
mills were a novel sight, upon the construction of Fulling mills as to 
the motion given to the pestles in the mortars, by levers from the 
axis of the wheel. We then passed the S. Meeting towards home, 
which we reached at noon. We dined on Salmon, & the Alewives 
were received & the alewives fresh made no mean entertainment at 
the Col's Table. We were much indebted undoubtedly to the Cook, 
who excelled on the occasion. After dinner I returned through 
Boxford & Topsfield to Salem, which tho' of a distance much greater 
than on the roads by Reading or Middleton, amply compensated me 
by the goodness of the roads, the fine farms, the beautiful landscapes, 
ponds & rivers. At Topsfield I spent an hour in chearful chat in a 
wedding house where the minister, Lawyer, squire, &c. were assem- 
bled, the men in one room, & their wives in another, the men having 
the best room, & all the attendance. For my amusement besides 
anecdotes, &c. I was furnished with several late publications of the 
ministers in this neighbourhood which informs us of the state of this 
order which has so much influence on society. Bradford of Rowley, 
Sermon at the Ord. of his Brother forms the clerical character upon 
the cant term of "experience" which will admit of many consequen- 
ces, being explained only by inward light. Dutch of Bradford, at the 
dedication of his new Meeting House, taking as his text the gold letters 
over his pulpit, "O worship the Lord in the beauty of holiness," runs 
along in a muddy stream, till he unburdens himself with the account 
of the oblivion of the old house, which should teach them to put into 
the bottomless pit; the same; their old man, not the old minister who 
was already dead. Williams of Methuen has offered to the world his 
farewell sermons, after a most bitter dissention. He is a son of an 
old Presbyterian Willians, natives of Ireland & the father often de- 
ranged. The dispute began about a Wood lot of the Parsonage & a 
challenge from the pulpit at a weekly Lecture, which one of the par- 
ishioners accepted. The parson seems to wish them well, but is 
terribly inveterate against a class of illiterate ministers, & a class 
called Hopkintonians, tho' not here named. Neither of these per- 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 139 

formances contribute much to prove the clergy enhghtened, simple 
in the ideas, or sweet in their tempers. The inscription upon their 
Houses is not in the style of sentiment of the New England settlers, 
& proves infallibly, that the Catholic Church is formed of materials 
existing in the constitution of human nature, as connected with 
certain states of society. The I. H, S. on the front of the S. Pulpit 
in Andover may well express in Humanitate Sum. In drawing 
comparisons nothing can be said in favour of these men, as in their 
office, in regard to society, we see, morals will make the worst opin- 
ions harmless. 

The situation of Andover being elevated there are fine prospects 
from its hills, & the view of the Town is opened in every part, & 
beautifully diversified. There are seven bridges over the Shawshin, 
which is nearly of the same width & depth through the Town of 
Andover. It is said to rise in Lexington. Seems as large in Tewkes- 
bury as at its mouth, & being deep in its bed, & confined, is subject 
to sudden flows. It is about 20 feet wide, & from 2 to 6 deep, where 
it is not obstructed. The Town of Andover is much cut up by roads. 
The poverty of the Land towards the Merrimac prevents this from 
being a great evil in that quarter. The Shawshin rises & falls 10 
feet in 12 hours, & the bridges are high upon that account, but too 
narrow, an evil from being a Town charge. There is not much fish- 
ing in this river, which is obstructed by the Mills built upon it. I 
saw some children with scoop nets amusing themselves. I found 
my friend Boardman has detached his interest from Mr Simons, re- 
nouncing all right in the house near the mills & the lands, & giving 
up the Mills saw & grist mills upon the Shawshin for an annual quit 
rent of 50 bushels of grain during Boardman's life. They have set- 
tled a Mr Barton at Tewkesbury. Madam Boardman has passed her 
80th year. The land is in general poor in the Town of Tewkesbury. 
Salmon here at /5d a pound. As to the Cultivation of Andover, I 
found at Col. Lovejoy's that he had the reputation of the greatest 
quantity of English Hay, & that Mr Parker had preserved excellent 
wood upon his farm. Among the elegant houses, the one which 
meets us coming into the great road from Tewkesbury, belonging to 
one Poor, a Tanner, is not the least elegant. There are several 



140 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

Physicians in the Town, among whom Kitteridge is distinguished by 
his elegant situation, agreeable manners, & extensive practice. The 
minister in the south parish asserts the rigour of his predecessor, 
& supports the character of the last age of American manners. The 
influence of example is every day increasing. He decides upon the 
secular concerns of his church agreably to the antient rigour. The 
most aged minister in this vicinity, Mr Morrill, is approaching to 
the end of a long life by means of a Cancer in the Mouth. He has 
been subjected to great mortifications for Arminianism, a charge 
which implies liberal enquiry, & popular prejudice, & stands for any- 
thing unhappy in a man's situation. I returned to Salem with St 
Cyprian's works, & a bunch of sweet Thyme for the Ladies, & so 
ended a short journey in which the roads were in the best order, & 
the weather the finest conceivable. I rode without surtout. 

April 27, 1794. Sunday. Went this morning on an exchange to 
Boxford, South Parish. The Rev. Holyoke is disabled by a paralytic 
stroke. I took the road, leaving Topsfield meeting on the right, & 
after 3/4 of a mile took the right hand through a road which did not 
seem to be much used, & which was but poorly settled from a visible 
cause, the poverty of the soil. The Rev. Mr. Holyoke & his family 
received me kindly. His wife is agreable. An only daughter at 
home gave us her company in modest silence. The meeting house 
is small, well painted, without spire or bell, & the congregation made 
a very decent appearance throughout. A Mr Adams from New 
Rowley, an adjoining vacant parish gave us his company at dinner, 
& told us the Anabaptist minister had also left from the circulation 
of some reports respecting his immodest freedoms. This is the third 
seperation of these amorous zealots in the County since I have lived 
in it, besides other uneasiness from the same cause with men of the 
same character. 

4:4:4:4:4:4:4:4: 

May 21, 1794. This day I visited Marblehead, with intention to 
examine the Neck which forms their harbour, but not having even 
my compass I was obliged to content myself with a very superficial 
survey. Revd Messieurs Story & Hubbard accompained me. We 
travelled near the shore from the high rocks before the Town called 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 141 

Bartold's head, leaving below us the new wharves. Above were the 
old wharves called Nickes cove wharf. We then passed Waldron's 
cove & reached Skinner's Head, & cove, & then red stone cove, & then 
rotten Cove, & then Whale cove, & came to Euit's head, & came to 
the Sea bank called river's head. We passed on the outer side, & on 
the further part saw the new works erected from the late Lottery, 
against which the public has so much complained. We found the 
Stones thrown up at considerable height as we approached the Neck. 
The tide being up, most of the rocks which lay off towards Ram 
Island were hidden, & those which lay between the neck & Tinker's 
Island. We reached the Western point, & from the headland, had 
an elevation which opened Tinker's Island, so as to shew the passage 
the Sea has between the parts of it. We continued our walk on the 
outer side of the Neck, which has rocky head, & beaches between 
as on the Shore of the Towns tho' not of so great elevation, except- 
ing about the middle of the neck, which is supposed to extend half a 
mile in a straight line, but must exceed that distance. In this dry 
time we found several places filled with water, & the low land in a 
very neglected state. It is said the whole neck includes 180 acres, 
the greater part of which is pasturage. Mr Andrews who has the 
best House on the Neck, is wealthy, possesses 27 acres, part of which 
lays in the rights of the Common land, tho' each man knows his spec- 
ial property. There are now three dwelling houses upon the Neck 
besides their barns, & several fish houses. It is said that there ware 
formerly 12 houses, but by the cellars they are judged to have been 
small, & not to be compared to these now standing. Mr Andrews' 
house was built before the war, is painted & in good repair with out 
houses, & excellent stone walls. The other houses are the common 
farm houses two stories with pitched roofs. The neck is widest 
about 2/3 up toward the causeway westward, & it is one mile 1/2 
from Capt. Andrews' House to the New Meeting House in the Town 
over the Causeway, about half a mile across the harbour, which is 
nearly of the same width throughout. The point of the Neck outward 
between Marblehead Rock & Tinker's Island has rocks laying off called 
Tom Moore's Rocks. The point opposite to the fort, & which makes 
the mouth of the Harbour is called Point Black Jack, & within it is 
formed a Cove called Carder's Cove. The Fort was erected in the 



142 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

last war upon a Headland below the Town, & which is never sep- 
arated at the highest tide from the mainland, & beyond it lays Orne 
island, which can be approached on land only on the ebb. Above the 
fort lays Ingoll's beach upon which Leslie landed his troops at the 
commencement of the War in 1775. The Harbour is not sheltered 
from the east wind, & between Boden's point & Skinner's head 
about 1/4 over is Boden's ledge of Rocks upon which there is in the 
common ebb 11/2 fathom of water, & at the lowest ebb 7 feet. 
They are Called Boden's Rocks, but are a real Ledge of some extent 
& scattered round. I did not have the pleasure of visiting Tinker's 
Island, which I was assured could be visited from the Neck by wad- 
ing in about 3 feet of water. It has much less land than I thought 
as viewed from the Neck, than I judged from the Sea. There has 
been one melancholy shipwreck upon them since I have lived in 
Salem. The Sunken rocks laying eastward of Cat Island, called in 
Salem, Satan, are called in Marblehead, the Porpusses. 

Nov. 24, 1794. Left Salem with Mr Priestley on a Journey to see 
the new Bridges of this County. We visited the Beverly Manu- 
facture, which from the fruitless attempt to manufacture cotton vel- 
vet, & unfashionable goods, is now converted to the profitable busi- 
ness of Bedticks, & the demand is much beyond the ability of Mr 
Burnham to supply. 60 hands are now employed in Beverly Manu- 
factory. We reached Ipswich & were kindly received at Revd Dana's 
for whom we carried Letters. After viewing the New Court House 
the plan of which is to be seen, tho' yet it is unfinished, we passed after 
dinner to the Academy Dummer, & spent an hour with the worthy 
Preceptor Smith. We had not time to visit the Woolen Manufactory 
established three miles from the Academy, from the shortness of 
the Days. We spent the first part of the evening at Revd Andrews 
in company with Revd Carey, very agreably, & then went & supped 
at Mr Jackson's, & lodged at his house. They have purchased an 
elegant organ for the first Church, of American manufacture. 

25. We spent the morning in visiting the Town. There is a new 
Meeting House built for a number of Seceders from the Presbyterian 
Church, who have at length settled a Mr Milton, & the Presbyterians 



i 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 143 

have settled a Mr Dana, to whom we had letters of address, & by 
whom we were kindly received. We visited the rope walks, which 
were now decorated in honour of Queen Catharine, on a day bearing 
the name of a Saint Catharine. We visited the new Charity house, 
which is a brick building, now erecting, & only finished on the ground 
floor. An entry passes through the middle leaving four rooms on 
each side, exclusively of the rooms assigned for the Overseer at the 
northern end. The upper part is to contain two large Rooms for 
business, & for the Overseers; till they are necessary for other pur- 
poses. We visited Mr Parson's, our eminent Lawyer, & various other 
characters, & dined with Dr Lovett in company with the amiable Mr 
Jackson, who returned the visit to Dr Swett, who had breakfasted 
with us in the morning. After dinner we took leave & went towards 
Haverhill. We were advised to go up Newbury side of the river be- 
cause the road was better, tho' the Amsbury side was shorter. We 
passed half a mile above grasshopper plains, where stands a meeting 
house, to view the New Bridge, & returned, by a path which short- 
ened our distance, to the plain near the meeting house making a 
Gore of Land. We were advised to pass Cottle's ferry, or at Brad- 
ford lower Meeting at Bussel's ferry but we continued up till we 
reached the Bridge, and it was too late to examine it. We spent an 
agreable evening at Herod's, & lodged that night at his house. We 
had a pleasing company of Ladies. 

26. In the morning, Mr Bartlet, our high Sherif, & a candidate 
for Congress, who superintends the building of the Bridge, waited 
upon us to examine it. We found the piers of Stone, & three arches. 
We wait for a circumstantial discription to be assured of all its pro- 
portions. We then had purposes of visiting the Bodwell Bridge be- 
tween Andover & Methuen, but the cold & the wind in our faces 
made us relinquish this object as well as the Canal at Patucket falls, 
& even above at Goff's Town, with the Bridges. We returned by 
Boxford & Topsfield to Salem, & arrived before Sundown. Haver- 
hill Bridge is 563 feet long, with three Arches 183 feet each in length, 
34 feet wide, upon stone piers, & abutments. 

******** 

April 18, 1796. I left Salem to go to Andover, to visit my friend 



144 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

Gen. Fiske, who has been long in that place for the advantages of 
the air, the retirement, and the attention of Dr Kitteridge, who is 
famous for his success with deranged persons. When I arrived at 
Stephen's I found the fishing Time had come on, but the Fishing in 
the brooks was by the Town, according to Law, an exclusive privi- 
lege in the hands of a Committee. One of the particular brooks is 
the Quochechiuque which is the outlet from the pond one mile N. E. 
from the Meeting House to the Merrimac, being about two miles 
in its course, passing the road not a mile N. of the N. Meeting House. 
The pond is large, & of an irregular shape. It is several miles 
around it, but I only saw it from the Hills. I was upon the hill op- 
posite Frye's which I had visited once before, & upon the hill north 
of it, between Fry's & the Pond. I did not go to Wyere Hill which 
is between the Meeting House & the Pond. 

19. This morning after breakfast in company with Col. Lovejoy 
I left Andover to see Methuen, one of the Towns of Essex County. 
I had crossed the river before at Bodwell's falls, & at the upper part 
of the Town at Richardson's but had not been far from the banks of 
the River. We had to ride about three miles to Bodwell's falls where 
the new Bridge is erected. We crossed the Bridge on the Shaw shin 
at Poor's in a mile & 1/2 & a Brook called Cold Spring, & had in 
full view a regular hill called Tower Hill in Methuen, which touches 
the river between Bodwell & Peter's falls, & has a ferry on the river. 
We turned short to the right hand and came to the Bridge. I was 
not able to get the dimentions of this Bridge. It was represented on 
the planking to reach 38 rods, above 600 feet. The water courses 
are four, & all supported overhead. The first floor is flat, but the 
other three are arches. The piers are covered with square timber 
& filled with rocks, & the work looks weW throughout. There were 
seines employed on both sides of the river, but they took only Shads, 
Suckers & alewives. We purchased a few as they came out of the 
water. Having passed the Bridge, we left White's on the right, & 
soon passed a guide Post, telling us, that it was 17 miles to London- 
derry, & so to Patucket falls, which is said to be a corruption of Pau- 
tucket. We crossed a Brook, & then came in view of the Spiquet, 
a beautiful Stream, which rises in New Hampshire, passes through 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 145 

Methuen & empties into the Merrimack, opposite to the Shawshin. 
Its course was judged to be S. E., & it passes near New Salem Meet- 
ing House in N. H. near the Road. As we ascended Conant's Hill 
we saw the Spiquet pouring its waters along at the Foot of this Hill, 
which is high & steep, & now the land begins to look of a much 
better soil, as well as cultivation. A view of Methuen from the op- 
posite banks of the River would give the beholder a verj/' unfavour- 
able opinion of the Township, & would justify the censure of Andover 
whose inhabitants long called it Littleworth. But the opinion is 
more favourable when we see their Oaklands, well cultivated spots, 
& the general appearance of ease & prosperity. It is said to have 
gained much within a few years, & the Farms are in better hands. 
The high lands give fine prospects, & we were relieved from the fa- 
tigue of mounting Conant's Hill, by the scenes which opened before 
us. As we approached the Falls, the Farm house, & the Farm of 
one Osgood appeared on the other side of the river in good order, & 
cultivation. In two miles from the Bridge we reached the Cascade 
at the Falls of the Spiquet, which is indeed romantic. The Road 
runs just above & just below the falls, & there are the best advan- 
tages for viewing them on every side. While the stream is full they 
are enchanting. The whole fall is fifty feet, but the descent over the 
rocks, which forms the cascade, is 30 feet. Above the falls the stream 
divides & leaves a little Island over which a road passes by two small 
bridges. The Island is full of large Oaks. The east branch would 
lead off the water, & as it passes the Island, is not interrupted. This 
branch is checked below the Island by the Timber, which passes over 
its mouth, & keeps it up several feet. The western Branch is broken 
by continual falls over the Rocks, till it reaches the rocks, where it 
mixes its waters with the other branch & pours down in the beauti- 
ful Cascade, into a bason below. On the western side there is a grist 
mill, & fulling mill, & on the eastern a small wheel to grind scythes, 
& all tools of husbandry. The water passes from the bason below 
with an inclination eastward, which gives a convenient stand in front 
of the falls to see the water precipitate itself from the rock. The 
cascade is several times broken, but the whole has but one interrup- 
tion from the projecting sides of the rocks at 2 /3s the height. The 



146 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

rock is shelving, & slate rock. A Sergeant holds the mills, & keeps 
a public house in this neighbourhood. In one mile we reached the 
meeting House leaving on our right the parsonage lot of wood chiefly 
oak. Not far from the Meeting House is the late Mansion of the 
first Minister, Sargeant, who was the father of our late Judge Sar- 
geant, so eminent on our Supreme Bench for his Law Knowledge, & 
lately deceased at Haverhill. The Estate is now held by a Bodwell 
by purchase. Rev. Sargeant was in this Town 50 years, & not long 
since died. He was succeeded by a Mr Williams, Son of the Revd 
Williams of Windham, not far from this place, for whom a Manse 
was built upon the glebe not far from the Meeting House. Mr 
Williams soon left his charge from some civil dispute, & is since set- 
tled at Meredith. Last December they ordained a Perley from Box- 
ford. By an advertisement on the Door of the Meeting House, it is 
to be taken down on Wednesday April 21, which is the next day. 
The Pews had been taken out, & preparation made. This is their 
first Meeting House. It was small, & in the usual proportions of 
our Meeting Houses. Never painted within or without. The timber 
was on the spot for a new Meeting House, which they expect to 
raise in May. It is to be upon the plan of the New Meeting House 
lately finished in the lower Parish of Bradford. With a tower, & 
Cupola. The situation is truly delightful. The Hill on whose top 
it is to be placed, rises gently, & the best farms are near it. It com- 
mands a very extensive prospect. One Hildrich keeps the Publick 
House near the Meeting House. At a distance N. Westward, appears 
a handsome House belonging to one Huit. We left the Meeting House 
& continued our rout eastward, after having been informed that we 
left the Meeting House of the Seperatists, half a mile on cur left to the 
west when we were at the Falls. We did not see it. It is now vacant, 
& the Congregationalists are to meet in it, while their House is build- 
ing. The minister, Stephens of the Seperatists, has removed & settled 
in Stoneham, Middlesex Co. The Baptist meeting is at some distance 
on the extreme part of the Town towards Dracut, and is unfinished, & 
without a Teacher. In passing from the M. House eastward, we 
went near a Square House, belonging to one Swan, which was well 
constructed, & in good order, & we had a fine view of the houses 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 147 

eastward, as we descended the long hill, till we reached Esqr Ingall's, 
to whose house we intended to visit. He is an old man, one of the 
Justices of the Sessions, & has been in the General Court. His house 
is two miles from the Meeting House. To extend our acquaintance 
as far as we could we did not return the same way, but took our 
route through Bear Meadow woods, it being four miles from Ingall's 
to the Bridge on this road. We passed Bear Meadow Book, & on our 
right a Clay Pit, which is said to afford as good Clay as in the County. 
There was no Kiln prepared when we passed. After we had passed 
the Woods, we came to Sow Brook, which near the road, meandered 
in the most singular manner, leaving only a few yards across to its 
course, after running in opposite directions several rods. It is above 
a mile from Ingall's. We then came to Bloody Brook, which empties 
into the Spiquet, & saw the Ironworks. There was a Furnace here, 
but it had not lately been at work. Ore had been found in this 
quarter, but I did not hear its quality, quantity, or its situation. Be- 
low on the Spiquet we saw another small fall, at which was a Mill 
Seat, & was told of another, below it towards Merrimac. We passed 
the road to Swan's Ferry by which our road to Andover would have 
been shortened two miles, but as the attendance was uncertain since 
the Bridge had been built, we continued our route to the Bridge pass- 
ing White's on our return, which we had left on our right when we 
entered the Town. From the Bridge we had a view of the mouths 
of the Shawshin & Spiquet, 1/2 a mile below. After passing the 
bridge, where toll was 12 1/2 cents, we took the new road & instead 
of turning as when we passed before, kept a direct course for the 
Overshot Mills, which stand upon an artificial pond, near the Shaw- 
shin. Here a Saw, Grist & Fulling mill are supplied with their little 
streams. We then entered the road to Billerica & Concord, & keep- 
ing the left reached the North Parish, ascending a long Hill, from 
which the prospect is very extensive, & entering upon Boston Road 
from Haverhill. I dined with Col. Lovejoy, & in the evening through 
Topsfield returned to Salem. From Methuen we could see the 
Academy at Atkinson on a hill to the eastward, with the Meeting 
House, Manse, & adjacent Buildings. 



148 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

Sept. 1, 1796. Hearing much of the malignant fever, in Newbury 
Port, & wishing to hear with my own ears, what was said in that 
place, as well as the state of the Inhabitants, I listened readily to a 
proposal from Dr Little to take a seat in a Chaise, in which he was 
going to Newbury Port near which was the place of his nativity, & 
in which he had his medical education under Dr Swet who was a 
victim of the disease. We left Salem about ten o'clock & dined at 
Ipswich at the States Arms. Before dinner we visited Revd Mr 
Dana, who was at his father's house, & who belonged to Newbury 
Port. This Gentleman was supposed to have had the symptoms of 
this fever, & is now upon the recovery. Upon our arrival near the 
Town we stopped at the father's House of Dr L., & finding the fam- 
ily at Lecture in the old town we thought we would stop at the old 
meeting to hear what Dr More the Minister had to say about the 
fever. A young man Pierce, candidate in Salisbury, preached. We 
found the alarm was great. We rode into Newbury Port & stopped 
at Davenport's & there found Mr Marquan,* so famous for his bold 
imagination. He had a servant sick of this fever, a negro, & in a 
high delirium. He had left his house, but was afraid to leave it with 
the negro, who had torn his bed to pieces, & such men as were sent 
to watch him. Marquan's account did not want colouring. We 
found Water street shut up by a chain & that Mr Carter, & Mr My- 
call were the only persons who had courage to tarry in it. We found 
the Town much deserted, & there had been public religious services 
for several days successively. We sought the Clergy, & with Mes- 
sieurs Cary & Andrews I spent an hour. They could only assure 
me of the facts of the deaths, & alarms, without any reasonings up- 
on the matter. I then went in search of Captain Joseph Noyes. His 
house was shut up, & his family had gone to Hampton. I found him 
at his son's, & as he was one of the Health Committee, I by his re- 
quest accompanied him to the Town house where the Health Com- 
mittee continued assembled all day. Capt Noyes was present with 
Dr Swett when he died. Dr Swet was taken by vomiting on Satur- 
day, & determined, upon his own fate upon the first discharge. Dr 
Sawyer visited him, but did not prescribe, & I have not yet heard what 

*Marquand. jDi"- John B. Swett. 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 149 

method Dr Swet observed. A coldness in the extreme parts was ob- 
served on Monday, but the Dr died on Tuesday. He rose by his own 
strength on the bed, spake to Capt. Noyes, turned himself, & with- 
out stretching himself, sunk instantly. The body had rather a purple 
appearance at death, which soon changed for yellow spots on all 
parts of the body. He was buried decently the next day, but since that 
time there has been an hearse provided, & Coffins for instant burial 
without any ceremony. The Dr died 16 Aug. After this fact my 
next enquiry was into the origin of the Fever. I had visited the 
family, but did not think it proper to make any enquiries respecting 
the Doctor's opinion, or conversation. Abroad it was agreed that the 
Dr imputed it to putrid fish belonging to Mr Atwood, near the place 
in which the fever spread. It seems that on 31 May there arrived 
near this place a vessel from Jamaica, & on the homeward passage 
ceveral men died of the yellow fever. The vessel was unladed 
on 1 June, having only a few puncheons of rum on board. The 
people say that all the cloaths belonging to the dead, near to them on 
their sickness were thrown into the sea. The reports of any deaths 
from visits to this vessel are denied by the Health Officers. They 
say that the pilot is living, the inspector living, all reports to the 
contrary not with standing. They say that Capt. Mulberry took all 
the precautions in his power. On the other hand, they say, that 
where this putrid fish was, & the vessel did lay at the same place, 
have been all the instances of mortality, & that there are no fair ex- 
amples of its being conveyed to any persons who have not been 
actually upon the spot. They begin the effects of this malignant 
fever so late as at the 15 of June. The Physicians concur in these 
facts. No persons attending the sick have actually suffered. Since 
the 15 of June 26 persons had died at this time, 13 males & 13 fe- 
males. At nine in the evening we left the Town of Newbury Port, 
for Newbury. 

2. We left Newbury, & went into Byfield parish to see the Man- 
ufactory. We were introduced by Mr Perkins* to the Apartments. 
We first reached the house in which this ingenious Mechanic lives, 
on our left. We then came to the new building intended for grist 

*Jacob Perkins. For biographical sketch, see Essex Antiquarian, Vol. II., p. 69-74. 



150 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

& boulting mill, & passing the house for the workmen we reached 
the large manufactory, which stands on a stream emptying into Par- 
ker's river, which is above a mile from the Academy. Below we saw 
the house for dying their woolens on the left, & on the right we saw 
the house for sheering, & beyond the Great Manufactory was a 
blacksmith's Shop. The Manufactory is large, of three upright 
stories, besides a loft. On the lower floor there is a partition. The 
bands pass over a Cylinder moved by the water works, & communi- 
cate with the Nail machines, & pass also through the floor & move 
the Carding Machines above. In the nail manufactory we first came 
to the machine for cutting the plates, which did the work very ex- 
peditiously. There were four machines for the brads, & then a ham- 
mer for heading of the nails. The whole was done in a masterly 
manner. The second loft was occupied by the Carding Machines & 
Jennies, & the Third by the Weavers on one side & the spinners on 
the other. On the upper loft & on the one side of the partition 
below, were deposits for their wool, & yarn. In the Sheering House 
we saw many specimens of their Woolen Cloths, which appeared to 
be good. They weave 7 1/4 wide & they use altogether the Spring 
shuttles. In sheering they prefer the sheares moved by the right 
hand onward, & commanded by a spring moved by the left, the one 
blade rests, & the other cuts at a considerable angle. 

3. The probability of the infection from the fish was confirmed 
at Newburyport in their minds, by similar facts at Portsmouth, & 
lately at Sandy bay, as well as by the testimony of Dr J. Pringle 
upon the Jail fever. In my absence I was chosen one of the Health 
Committee of Salem, & last evening I was with the Committee. We 
have 20 members including the Selectmen, & are subdivided into 5 
Committees with our days for attendance respectively. 

Sept. 21, 1796. After dinner took my compass & pencil, & went for 
a walk by the new Mills to Beverly, to return by Essex Bridge. The 
North Field Bridge has been lately repaired by a Mr Woodkins. 
The Draw no longer rises by Levers & ropes over head, but by bal- 
ances, & a crank below. It appears strong enough. The leaves 
rest against each other & depend on the strength of the work 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 151 

behind them. North-fields do not appear in a very flourishing con- 
dition. The fields belong chiefly to non residents, & the houses are 
occupied not by the most industrious citizens. After we pass the 
cross roads the Negro houses appeared very decent, especially com- 
pared with them in Town. At Mr Gardiner's, in Danvers, we find a 
decent building. The present owner, since his purchase from Brad- 
ish, has much changed the appearance of the house & Land. Below 
at the Bridge, which is handsomely repaired, the mill works go on 
well. On the southern shore all the frames, & sluices are prepared 
for the water works, & on the north side, the foundations are nearly 
complete. Much of the waterworks are finished, such as the water 
wheels, trundles, &c. From this spot I walked to Mr Reed's* house, 
which fronts south, but is quite north of the top of the hill, & upon 
the descent, & so looses much of the front prospect, & gains nothing 
behind. It was built for a farm house upon 30 acres of Gov. Endi- 
cott's farm sold by his heirs. Another part of the farm which in- 
cluded the whole neck between Duck & Crane river, is alienated 
with its farm house to Col. Sprague of Salem. A third division on 
the S. W. is yet retained by the heirs of Endicott. We visited this 
man who was of the seventh generation from the Gov. At the 
door we found the Gov.'s dial,t which was in copper, a very fair 
impression, & in the highest order. It was marked "William Bow- 
yer, London, Clockmaker, fecit. I. 1630. E." (the initials of the Gov.'s 
name). On the gnomon on one side Lat. 42, & on the other Salem. 
We entered the house which had nothing to recommend it, & saw 
the old family picture of G. Endicott. Copies have been taken. One 
I have seen in the Senate Chamber & another at Col. Pickman's, 
Salem. It is hardly to be discovered. The face is the only part, 
which is not entirely gone. The canvas is chiefly bare. We then 
passed into the Cornfield to find the Site of the old Mansion. We 
found that this house, gone before the memory of any persons living, 
was upon the descent of the hill facing southward. The place of 
the Cellar, which is to be seen is distinguished by an apple Tree 
growing on it. Behind was a building for the family servants, & 
domestic laborers, the place of which is now to be seen. There is a 
*Nathan Read, M. C. 1 Now in the museum of the Essex Institute, Salem. 



152 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

fine prospect in front, & a gentle descent to a little creek, in which 
the Gov. kept his Shallop. Tradition says there was a walk to this 
place with damson trees & grape vines so thick that a person might 
walk unobserved. These have all been gone for many years. This 
place was called the Gov. Orchard as he planted early Trees around 
his house. There is only one Tree left, which bears the Sugar Pear, 
& by tradition was planted in 1630. It is in front of the site of the 
House, it rises in three trunks from the ground, & is considerably 
high. It is much decayed at bottom, but the branches at top are 
sound. I brought away some of the pears & engaged such as remain, 
to be brought to my house to send to the Governour of the Common- 
wealth. There is a beautiful spring near Crane river, just before we 
came to the gate on the road. 

I then took leave of Mr Reed, after observing the fine shag bark 
which grew upon his land & which formerly abounded on this farm, 
& passed the New Mills upon the Bridge beyond the Meeting House 
over Porter River the main Branch. At the Bridge I passed into a 
path at the head of a Creek, & soon reached another Creek not far 
from a north Course from the river. At the head of the second 
Creek I passed through some woods on an east course, & found a 
third Creek running nearly up to Rial Side road. Just beyond a 
small brook descends from the southern part of Brown's Hill. On 
the right of the road was a small burying ground, belonging to the 
Leaches whose farm house had a very decent appearance. Passing 
on & seeing mean houses, some with the old shattered diamond glass, 
I reached the top of the rising ground opposite to Crane neck, hav- 
ing all the country open on this side of the river, land poor & only 
5 Trees in the whole view of the river. 50 years since this parish 
could vie with the southern parish, & the most independant Farmers 
lived on these grounds so celebrated in the early history. After a 
few civilities in Beverly, I returned to Salem & reached it before the 
clock struck 6. 



July 25, 1797. Left Salem early for Boxford, in company with 
Mrs. Porter. We reached Topsfield early enough for Breakfast, & 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 153 

were with Dr. Cleaveland. We then stopped at Revd Huntington's* 
where we were kindly received. We then passed to Parson Hol- 
yoke's & found his Son & family well. The infirmities of the Par- 
son take him entirely from his services. We passed into the great 
road at Spafford's Tavern & crossed to Mr. Perley's. There are 
seven ponds in this Town. One, back of Perley's lays nearly east & 
west, widest toward the western end, terminating in a meadow at 
the east end. It must contain 200 acres. I walked on the southern 
side as far as the meadow. The ground is high & uneven, with 
some fine trees, but of poor pasturage. We tarried for the night & 
our Host was very sick while we were with him. 

26. We returned after Breakfast by the great Haverhill road, it 
being both nigher & better. At the burying ground we found a 
new monument erected by the Town in honour of Capt. Wood, who 
has lately deceased & has left 2000 dollars to the Town to assist the 
Grammar School. The stone is a parallelogram at the bottom on 
which is erected a slate stone, in the form of an obelisk, tho' flat as 
a grave stone. It is ornamented above with marble. There is a 
tomb erecting near it for the same family. The arch is first raised 
in brick & lime & then covered with stone laid in lime of double the 
thickness of the first arch. The Tomb very narrow. 

May 13, 1799. Capt. John Gibaut invited me to go with him upon 
a visit to his Farm & mills in Cape Ann Island. We found the road 
through Cape Ann woods much assisted by the new road but there 
remains 1 & 1/2 mile yet unfinished to remind the traveller what 
that road once was & has lately been. We were told that 300 dol- 
lars had been appropriated by the Town to finish the work, as the 
three Classes of the Lottery were incompetent. We reached the 
Harbour or Town, at one o'clock & passed, after a few compliments, 
to Old Town, where was the Farm we were to visit. The river 
which empties into Squam River, on the west side of that river, 
meets about 1/2 mile below the mills from whence it has a souther- 
ly course beautifully meandering, when the tide is full, through open 

*Rev. Asahel Huntington, father of Mayor Huntington of Salem. 



154 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

ground, & sloping hills, which are a strange contrast to the broken 
ground, and towering rock around. There is a good view from the 
rising ground opposite to the Farm House at the Mills but a better 
view 1/2 mile upward from the bald rock of Poole's Hill which gives 
a view of Boston & Ipswich Bay & of the adjacent country. The 
Mill pond communicates with Cape Ann pond about three miles 
distant & the tide flows as far as the Fresh Water mills, one mile 
upwards or S. where the fresh streams turn eastward. The mills 
have been thoroughly repaired & a large store is finished upon the 
west side upon a Cobb wharf joining to the Mill Dam. As the river 
runs toward the Town there is a beautiful view up the river of the 
Spires & houses as we approach the Town. After dinner with Capt. 
Smith's lovely family, who is upon the farm, & in company with Gi- 
baut, we prepared for sailing down Squam river. As the tide was low 
we walked down to the point below the mills where Squam river meets 
the Mill river. At this point we found the remains of Col. Low's wharf 
which, at an early period, was a place of considerable business, & 
there is an unusual depth of water. Round the point at Gee's wharf 
in Squam river, 6 fathoms may be found at low water. There is a 
road from the Town to this point but from the change of the place 
of business from the Upper Town, as it is called, to the Harbour, so 
called, it is neglected. In Squam river lay four islands. The larg- 
est are furthest up the River. They are small. Pierce's & Rhust's 
are well known. In Squam Harbour a Cape runs inland at the head 
of which stands the Meeting House. Not in very good repair but 
better than at Sandy Bay. It is of two stories, not high, small & 
finished in the plainest manner. We saw the wharf at the Point built 
by Capt. Haraden, now of Salem. Baker's Orchard, west of the Town, 
was said to be as large as any upon the Island, & it made a good ap- 
pearance in this singular situation. Opposite to Squam was the well 
known Sand Beach, which supplies all the shore with sand for the use 
of families from Boston to Portsmouth. It is best nearest the rocks, 
or upon the most easterly part or N. E. We then having passed Lob- 
ster & Goose coves, to Squam Cove, came in view of the Bar Rocks 
which lay near to Squam Bar & which trends towards Wigwam Point, 
on which we found a Beacon, upon which is hoisted in foul weather a 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 155 

Lantern to aid the Fishermen in passing the Bar. The Lobster Rocks 
go to the Channel and they enter by bringing the Bald Rock between 
the bar and two sharp rocks on the shore & so pass clear of the Lobster 
Rocks. As we opened the coves we had an opportunity of seeing 
the fashion of mooring Boats commonly called Jebacco* Boats be- 
cause built first in that part of Ipswich. They perforate a large 
stone & raise a tree with its roots & stripped of its branches, & then 
slide the stone over the stock of the tree upon the root. The root 
prevents the stone from a seperation & this is carried & sunk in a 
convenient place the top remaining like a post above water. The 
fish houses are at the head of these coves, & from the number of 
sunken trees we may nearly ascertain the number of boats in the 
Cove. About 300 is the number for the whole Island, half of which 
belong to the part called Sandy Bay. From Wigwam point we passed 
to Neck point, which affords two coves, that on the west side be- 
ing called Neck Cove & that on the east side, Hodgkin's Cove & is con- 
siderable. We then opened Plum Cove & afterward Lane's Cove & 
after having passed an Head called Gallop's folly, we opened Gallop's 
folly Cove. The next point is the extreme of the Cape called Halibut 
point. We then put out into the bay among the wherries which are 
small flat bottom boats & are as numerous as the Jebacco Boats, & 
which in good weather make two fares a day & sometimes take as 
many as five hundred Cod & Haddock. They are rowed cross hand, 
led by one man & even by boys of 10 & 12 years. We succeeded in 
fishing & for the first time I caught several haddock, but the wind 
breezing, I was soon too sick to persevere. We returned at Sun 
down to the Mills «& after Tea had more sport at the Mill tail. The 
eels came down in abundance, & the alewives striving to ascend being 
tossed back by the water, great numbers were easily taken in a 
scoop net without any labour but of dipping it into the stream. It 
is but lately the alewives have been led into this course, & very 
few of them pass the freshwater mills above the mill tide Pond. 
There has been a vexing Lawsuit upon the subject a few years since 
upon account of the refusal of the privilege & the Claims of the Mills 
being supported, the Town has hitherto neglected to purchase the 
*Chebacco, now the town of Essex. 



I 



156 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

privilege. The grant of the mills was made to a former minister, 
one Emerson, & all the inhabitants, except a few on Jebacco side, 
bound themselves to send their grain to this grist mill. The exempts 
were better accomodated at a nearer place. From the conversation 
we might expect that the Town would soon see their true interest & 
purchase the right of a passage to these fish so important in our 
fishery. These alewives not only draw in the large fish, but 20C0 
dollars are supposed actually to be expended in Cape Ann for Ale- 
wives as bait from Jebaco & other Towns. 

14. In the morning we prepared to take the Tour of the Cape. 
Capt. Smith took a Mr. Phelps, an Apothecary, in a Chaise, & Capt. 
Gibaut & I rode together in another. We stopped in the Harbour 
to be shaved by a woman named Becky who in due form exercises 
all the functions of a Barber. She has her shop decorated with all 
the pictures which belong to such places of resort, from the meanest 
Black print to the best engraving, with all the songs which are in the 
taste of the varied multitude of her customers. It was a solitary 
example of a woman in this employment. She shaves well but has 
few attractions of her sex. As soon as we left the Town we had a 
view on the right of Salt Island so memorable by the fate of our 
mariners. It lies at a Small distance from the shore, has a sand 
beach within it & is almost a bald rock of considerable elevation. 
The roughness of the road is much less than form.erly & at present 
not to be compared with Squam side. We passed Col. Foster & his 
Son at work in the field about 2 miles from Sandy Bay. Their farm 
is a welcome object amongst the greatest rudeness of nature. Op- 
posite to the pond we stopped in the Road & passed to the right to 
view it. We ascended a bald rock on the western side not far from 
the northern end of the pond, about 40 feet elevation, & here we saw 
the form of it. It rather exceeds half a mile in length. It lies about 
a mile in line from Streightsmouth, & not so much from the Eastern 
Shore of the Island. We could see no places to take bearings on the 
Eastern shore as the Islands were hidden. It lies in length nearly 
north & south. Its form is not very winding upon the eastern side 
except a little at the south end, at which it is narrowest. It then 
trends S. W. unequally till it goes westerly to the outlet which is 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 157 

about 1/3 of its length from the S. end on the western side. It then 
remains of its greatest width for some distance till it becomes more 
narrow at the northern end. Its greatest depth is said to be on the 
N. E. side opposite to the high rock on its W. side from where we 
viewed it, reckoned at 30 feet. It has the Pickerel & perch in great 
abundance & is a pleasant body of water. The land about it is high 
excepting a meadow at the north end, & down this the vallies open 
as far as Streightmouth which is seen in this opening. We passed 
from the pond to Sandy Bay, which, tho' it has a scattered appear- 
ance while in the Settlement, has from several heights a very pleas- 
ing form from the neighbouring heights. We stopped in the upper 
part of the settlement at Mr. Rollins, a Trader, who was absent up- 
on business. But from his wife we had every attention and a most 
excellent fish dinner. We here saw neatness & simplicity. Her 
husband is a carpenter & has built many houses in the place & is in 
flourishing circumstances. From this house we passed to view the 
settlement stretched along upon several coves & this place has half 
the number of Boats upon the whole Island. It had no houses which 
expressed the wealth of Cape Ann Town, but it had none of the marks 
of poverty which many houses in that place display. The Houses 
are small & of two stories & generally painted. The Doors are com- 
monly on the side so as to afford a good front room & back kitchen, 
with a bed room back of the front entry. Some are double. The 
School house was neat. The Door was at the Eastern end but there 
was a partition between the Doors in the same frame to keep the 
stairs leading above seperated from the room below. There are two 
windows on a side. The roof hipped with a Belfry. The House 
painted green & roof red. The Meeting House is small & the body 
filled with seats, much neglected, roof rotten & open, standing near 
the shore below the School House. Formerly there were ministers 
in all the parishes but at present there is but one in the Island, the 
Revd. E. W. Forbes, in the Harbour or Town, so called. Mr. Rogers 
was formerly in the Upper Town & the meeting house is decorated 
with an handsome steeple but it is going rapidly to decay, having 
been long neglected. A Mr. Wythe & Parsons were at Squam, but 
a separation ensued from their imprudence. They are both living. 



158 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

At Sandy Bay was a Mr. Cleveland, still living, who has repeatedly 
preached among them. Some from these parishes, visit the small 
house for the Universalists in the harbour, but this Society has no 
stated minister since Mr. Murray removed to Boston. As we pass 
in Sandy Bay down towards Streightsmouth, the Light Houses on Tha- 
cher's Island open on the road before us, & as we went towards 
Streightsmouth were in full view. The longest side of Streights- 
mouth Island is open towards Sandy Bay, the E. part running out- 
wards from shore. The Streight is narrow & has not much water 
at low tide & is winding. A Bluff head terminates the N. end of the 
Island near the shore under which is a little soil to be seen. There 
is a beach upon the shore within the streight & on the shore a Bluff 
opposite to the bluff on the Island. Upon our return we observed 
the very decent appearance of the women & children, which have 
good forms & most florid countenances united with an uncommon 
cleanliness in their dress. At Rollins' are found some infant speci- 
mens of Taste. Some monumental drawings in memory of some 
deceased Children, done by one Saville, a Schoolmaster, with such 
inscriptions as are adapted to the heart of a parent, & are the best 
tribute to the memory of the good we love. After dinner we took 
our departure for Squam. We nowhere saw Halibut point from 
Sandy Bay, as it was covered by Anderson's point. As we proceed- 
ed along Pigeon Cove we had a miserable road, but before we reached 
it we had a pleasing view of Pidgeon Hill. A few Trees on the top 
yet remain, but the gentle rising & the central figure of the Hill, as 
well as the verdure everywhere on its sides, was a contrast to the 
rude forms of rocks & declivities which everywhere else appear. 
The Salvages lay off before us & the three white rocks on the eastern 
group which lay before us are coloured by their daily visitants, the 
Birds, to warn the Mariners of their danger. The Mariners speak 
of applying to the Marine Societies of the neighbourhood to assist 
them in raising a Monument upon Pidgeon hill, as the Trees are de- 
caying continually. Upon this road we saw several neat Houses, & 
two neat School Houses of one Story, well painted. Halibut Point 
nowhere presented to the eye as we passed in the road. We found 
it a pile of rocks, split into flat stones of all dimentions. They seem 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 159 

to invite for every use. But they can seldom be taken from the 
shore on account of the swell, & the roads are too rough to admit 
their removal. Gallop's Folly point beyond has the same kind of 
stones but not in the same preparation for use &. split so regulary. 
At Gallop's Folly we found much loose sand in the hills which we 
had opportunity to examine as we stopped just beyond Mr. Gott's 
who has a good Farm which has profited from this sand, which has 
been strewed upon his meadows. This Man is an Outre. He was 
formerly employed in a Coasting Vessel but at present is seperated 
from his wife & only Child. He discovered to us the most hospit- 
able temper, but there is a derangement of mind, rather than a cor- 
ruption of heart. He shewed us his farm. He has helped his Sandy 
plains & hills, by the Locust. He has planted the Sassifras & has a 
good Orchard. He showed us his woods in which he has the best 
oak timber on the Island, some of which he is cutting for Ship Tim- 
ber. He has several nurseries of trees. He talks of a Ship yard & 
he has many conveniences on the shore. In a mile from Gott's we 
reached Squam. This has a scattered & poor appearance. It once 
was much m.ore prosperous than Sandy Bay but is now far surpassed 
by the Inhabitants of Sandy Bay, yet, should the fisheries again re- 
vive, we may hope will again enter into competition with its neigh- 
bours. The road from Squam to Upper Town mills, over the two 
Squam hills, was in a very neglected State & by far the worst of any 
we found upon the Island. It is so easy to pass up the river & the 
distance is so much less that men always in their boats never think 
of stretching 3 miles over the worst roads, when they can sail pleas- 
antly only one mile. Before Sundown we reached our home at the 
Mills having completed what is called the Tour of the Cape in the 
distance of 15 miles as it is reckoned. At leisure examined the Tide 
Mill, & found few improvements in the construction. The water 
wheel is upon the new plan of side boards & flats instead of the old 
floats tunnelled upon shafts. The rounds in the Lantern were short 
& not large enough. The Lantern was large enough. The Shoot 
was open & the clack was by iron claps on wood instead of open 
iron, & the spout was short & trough narrow. At the mills they 
have frequently caught a fish which they have not preserved but 



160 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

which the Sailors thought Hke the Skip jack tho' smaller. I have 
asked to see one when taken in Autumn. 

15. This day we agreed to visit in the Town & to dine with our 
Companion Mr. Phelps. We reached the Harbour at 11 o'clock. 
Our first visit was to the New Ship Yard. They have never yet built 
ships of great Burden. The first attempt by Col. Pierce engaged 
much of the public attention. On every road we heard of the enter- 
prise & every man knew how much timber he could spare. The 
first ship heads 76 feet, 27 feet beam & 12 feet hold within the tim- 
bers, to be about three hundred Tons. She is up in her frames al- 
ready. As much talk has been made of Dock Yards. Cape Ann 
think they can afford a convenient one in a Cove at the head of their 
Harbour, within 5 pound island. Their claims are not the meanest 
which will be advanced. 20 feet of water can easily be had. The 
Cove is large enough and the entrance small & the position of the 
Cape is the best in our Bay, to be ready for Sea. Near the Cove is a 
perpetual spring which is conveyed in a wooden spout so as readily 
to afford any quantity of the purest water. A constant stream fills 
the spout & wastes into the Sea. There are two Rope walks in the 
Town. One in Middle street, not far eastward of the Meeting House, 
belonging to Beach, & another in the lower part of the Town, form- 
erly Seargeant's now Plummer's. From the Ships we went to the 
Bank. It is a building in Front Street, of one Story. We descended 
into the vault which is formed of the largest stone which can be 
easily transported & it is formed in the cavity of a rock. It is small 
but more secure everywhere than at the door. The back room of 
the Bank is a Lawyer's office and it is kept by Mr. John Rowe, their 
present Representative. Towards the entrance of the Town is the 
New School house, of two apartments, one on each story, with a 
Cupola. And behind the Meeting House is the Proprietor's School 
which has two fronts & has also a Cupola & two Doors under the 
same frame. A Mr. Black, now in Gloucester, proposes to open an 
Academy & to unite his labours with two young gentlemen who are 
^ to teach writing & arithmetic, Messieurs. Saville & Woods. It is 
said that Mr. Black has engaged the School, but that the plan of an 
Academy will not probably succeed. As we passed along we found 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 161 

the Minister directing the plowing of a spot of land adjoining to an 
house left him by an antiquated Irish midwife, who died in the Town. 
We visited Mr. D. Rogers, who has long been a man of influence in 
the Town, & paid our respects to his Son John Gorham Rogers, a 
worthy gentleman. At Table, at Mr. Phelps', we found his Wife's 
Sister. They are g. daughters of Mr. Coffin, whose farm is so well 
known opposite to the entrance of Jebacco, & who had lately de- 
ceased. Mrs. Phelps is a worthy and agreable woman & soon formed 
a party for us to go to Eastern point. Mr. Smith, Mr. Phelps, & their 
wives, Mr. Fulger's wife, Capt. Gibaut & Mrs. Coffin & myself & 
Clementina Beach, made the party. Mrs. Fulger is sister of Miss 
Beach, both fine women. Clementina is a young lady of accomplish- 
ments. We enjoyed ourselves and returned to tea at Mr. Phelps'. 
In Cape Ann they tell us that Hog Island in Jebacco, offers the best Veal 
in the Country, & that their own Springy tho' Rocky Hills afford 
the best mutton in America. 

16. We had engaged this day to dine with Mr. Fulger. In our 
visit to the Town we had an opportunity to be informed of the great 
increase of new houses. As Squam & Upper Town have decayed, 
the Harbour has been enriched. The military Character of Cape 
Ann is established. On a point of land, they can afford to employ 
the greatest hospitality towards all who visit them, and forming all 
their pleasures among themselves, they must be fond of all social in- 
stitutions. They excell in their parties, in their clubs, & also in their 
Military parades. A late proof has been given. Their Artillery 
House is beyond example in the Country. It is of two Stories. In 
the lower there is all the Arrangement of an Arsenal or a Laboratory. 
Their own Two Brass field pieces, & Two Iron 9 pound, with all the 
apparatus are disposed in the best order. In front is a piazza & the 
building has folding doors which open under it & form a full com- 
munication with it. Over the Piazza is a balustrade & place to ac- 
commodate a large company & the apartment of the second story is 
provided for an hall of entertainment. In front is suspended a Bell 
given to call them to dinner. It has this inscription: Anrottes 
segen ist alles gelocheben. It is friendship which gave the bell in- 
dependently of its being cast in Denmark, or so inscribed. At 



162 REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 

Dinner we had the Company of Mr. Black who is a Scotchman of 
great pretentions, as was said, but nothing could be ascertained ex- 
cept that he had the education of many travelHng Scotchmen. Af- 
ter dinner Mr. Fulger permitted me to examine a Collection of shells 
& was kind enough to present some of them to me. We left his 
amiable family at five o'clock & reached Salem at eight in the even- 
ing, abundantly gratified with our company & amply paid for our 
visit to Cape Ann. How unhappy it is that an air of dissipation 
should appear in so lovely a place in which they could give to them- 
selves any manners they please without any danger of contamination 
from foreign influence & fashions. I gave at Table, being requested, 
"The hospitality of Cape Ann, may it be preserved in our National 
Character." In no place which I have ever visited can they so easily 
combine for any social pleasure, in no place can they pursue pleasure 
with so little interruption and yet they have all the jealousies, com- 
petitions & even enmities, belonging to little Towns & to human 
Nature. 

******** 

June 5, 1799. Rode to Phillips' Beach with S. C. Found Mr. 
Phillips, aet. 83, living. The House was built for his Grandfather 
in 1660. An ash frame now firm. This part called Quamskutt.* 
His g. g. father was among the first settlers. Everything wears the 
appearance of neglect. A beautiful Ash before the house was planted 
from a walking stick with which he drove homewards his team. They 
still complain of Foxes, Martins, etc. in their woods, tho' they are 
not so common as the skunks. At Phillips' I saw an old Cradle much 
resembling that at Boston, in which John Massey the first Male Child 
was rocked. 

6. Went with a party of friends upon invitation to dine with the 
Widow Grafton at Wenham. We amused ourselves with the Ale- 
wives, Lamprey eels & small fish of Wenham pond & after an ele- 
gant social dinner we went to Pleasant pond about 1/2 mile north- 
westward from the meeting house. There is a beautiful prospect 
from the ridge eastward of the pond. The pond is of about 40 acres 
& the approach is beautiful upon the western & especially on the 

* Swampscott. 



REV. WILLIAM BENTLEY IN 1787-1799. 163 

eastern side. On the north & South are communications with 
Swamps. I went round the pond. After Tea we returned to Salem. 
Having no boats we could not enjoy the fishing which is so good in 
these ponds. The lands near Pleasant pond are like the dungeons, 
are in great hollows, but too much cleared of wood. In the grave- 
yard we found the monument of Revd. Joseph Gerrish who succeed- 
ed to Revd. John Fisk. It has been repaired by the Inhabitants but 
a small part was legible. There are also the monuments of Revd. 
Ward, Warren, & Swain, who have been successively ministers in 
this Town. We found also two of the name of Fisk. One, a Dea- 
con aet. 85, who must have been born in 1644, & a William Fisk, 
later. By this it appears that all Wenham did not probably remove 
to Chelmsford with Revd. John Fisk, & probably he might leave 
some Children upon his Lands in Wenham. Mr. Gerrish's Latin in- 
scription expressed that he was born in Newbury & as the word 
Parker appeared, probably educated under Rev. Parker of that place. 



JEAN PIERRE BRISSOT DE WARVILLE IN 1788. 

THIS French writer was the son of an innkeeper. He studied 
law in Paris and early gained a wide reputation by his pub- 
lished works. In 1788 he founded a society friendly to the 
negro slaves and the same year came to the United States to inquire 
into their condition. Returning to France the next year, he at once 
took an active part in the Revolution. After a time he incurred the 
hostility of Robespierre, was arrested, and after a long imprison- 
ment was guillotined on Oct. 31, 1793. While in America he adopt- 
ed the habits of the Quakers and on his return to France he intro- 
duced the fashion of wearing the hair without powder. His record 
of American travels was published under the following title : ISou- 
veau Voyage dans les Etats Unis fait en 1788, 2 vols. Paris, 1791. An 
English translation was published in London the next year and an 
American edition was issued in 1797 at Boston. 

I left Boston the 2d of October [1788], after dinner with my 
worthy friend Mr. Barrett ; to whom I cannot pay too sincere a trib- 
ute of praise for his amiable qualities, or of gratitude for the read- 
iness he has manifested on all occasions in procuring me information 
on the objects of my research. We slept at Salem, fifteen miles from 
Boston ; an excellent gravelly road, bordered with woods and mead- 
ows. This road pases the fine bridge of Maiden, which I mentioned 
before, and the town of Lynn remarkable for the manufacture of 
women's shoes. It is calculated that more than an hundred thou- 
sand pairs are annually exported from this town. At Reading, not 
far from Lynn, is a similar manufacture of men's shoes. 

Salem, like all other towns in America, has a printing press and a 
gazette. I read in this gazette the discourse pronounced by M. 
D'Epremenil, when he was arrested in full parliament in Paris. What 
an admirable invention is the press! it brings all nations acquainted 
with each other, and electerizes all men by the recital of good actions, 
which thus become common to all. This discourse transported the 
daughters of my hostess : D'Epremenil appeared to them a Brutus. 

(164) 



JEAN PIERRE BRISSOT DE WARVILLE IN 1788. 165 

It was cold and we had a fire in a Franklin stove. These are com- 
mon here, and those chimneys which have them not, are built as de- 
scribed by M. de Crevecoeur : they rarely smoke. 

The mistress of the tavern (Robinson*) was taking tea with her 
daughters ; they invited us to partake with them. I repeat it, we 
have nothing like this in France. It is a general remark thro' all the 
United States: a tavern-keeper must be a respectable man, his 
daughters are well drest, and have an air of decency and civility. 
We had good provisions, good beds, attentive servants; neither the 
servants nor the coachman ask any money. It is an excellent prac- 
tice ; for this tax with us not only becomes insupportable on account 
of the persecutions which it occasions, but it gives men an air of 
baseness, and accustoms to the servility of avarice. Salem has a 
considerable commerce to the islands, and a great activity of busi- 
ness by the cod fishery. 

In passing to Beverly, we crossed another excellent wooden bridge. 
The construction of this bridge, and the celerity with which it was 
built, gives a lively idea of the activity and industry of Massachusetts. 
It cost but three thousand pounds ; the toll for an horse and carriage 
is eight pence ; the opening in the middle for the passage of vessels, 
is of a simpler mechanism than that of Charlestown. On the road to 
Beverly I saw a flourishing manufacture of cotton. At Londonderry 
a town chiefly inhabited by Irish, is a considerable manufacture of 
linen. We dined at Newbury with Mr. Tracy, who formerly enjoyed 
a great fortune, and has since been reduced by the failure of different 
enterprises, particularly by a contract to furnish masts for the mar- 
ine of France. The miscarriage of this undertaking, was owing to 
his having employed agents in procuring the first cargo who de- 
ceived him, and sent a parcel of refuse masts that were fit only for 
fire-wood. Though the manner in which Mr. Tracy had been de- 
ceived was sufficiently proved ; yet, for the clerks of the marine at 
Versailles, whose interest it was to decry the American timber, this 
fact was sufficient to enable them to cause it ever after to \)e rejected. 
And Mr. Tracy's first cargo was condemned and sold at Havre for 
* The wife of Samuel Robnison who kept the " Sun Tavern," previously kept 
by William Goodhue. 



166 JEAN PIERRE BRISSOT DE WARVILLE IN 1788. 

250 1. He lives retired ; and with the consolation of his respectable 
wife, supports his misfortunes with dignity and firmness. 

Newbury would be one of the best ports in the United States, were 
it not for a dangerous bar at the entrance. The business of ship- 
building has much declined here. In the year 1772 ninety vessels 
were built here, in 1788 only three. This town stands at the mouth 
of the fine river Merrimack, abounding in fish of different kinds. 
Twenty -four miles of fine road brings you from Newbury to Ports- 
mouth, the capital of New-Hampshire. . . . 

We left Portsmouth on Sunday, and came to dine at Mr. Dalton's, 
five miles from Newbury, on the Merrimack : this is one of the fine- 
est situations that can be imagined. It presents an agreeable pros- 
pect of seven leagues. This farm is extremely well arranged ; I saw 
on it thirty cows, numbers of sheep, &c. and a well furnished garden. 
Mr. Dalton occupies himself much in gardening, a thing generally 
neglected in America. He has fine grapes, apples, and pears ; but he 
complains that children steal them ; an offence readily pardoned in a 
free country. 

The Americans are not accustomed to what we call grand feasts ; 
they treat strangers as they treat themselves every day, and they 
live well. They say they are not anxious to starve themselves the 
week, in order to gormandize on Sunday. This trait will paint to you 
a people at their ease, who wish not to torment themselves for show. 

Mr. Dalton's house presented me with the image of a true pa- 
triarchial family, and of great domestic felicity ; it is composed of 
four or five handsome young women, drest with decent simplicity, 
his amiable wife, and his venerable father of eighty years. This 
respectable old man preserves a good memory, a good appetite, and 
takes habitual exercise. He has no wrinkles in his face, which seems 
to be a characteristic of American old age ; at least I have observed it. 

From Mr. Dalton's we came to Andover, where my companion pre- 
sented me to the respectable pastor of the parish. Dr. Symmes, in 
whom I saw a true model of a minister of religion, purity of morals, 
simplicity in his manner of life, and gentleness of character. He 
cheers his solitude with a respectable wife, by whom he has had 
many children. 



GEORGE WASHINGTON IN 1789. 

IN THE summer following his inauguration Washington had a 
severe sickness and was confined to his bed for about six weeks. 
With the idea of regaining his health and also of seeing some- 
thing of the New England States he set off on a tour that extended 
as far as Portsmouth, N. H. He did not pass through Rhode Island 
as that State had not yet come into the Union and technically was 
foreign territory. At Boston, Governor Hancock from a mistaken no- 
tion of precedent tried to compel Washington to make the first formal 
call and finally, when forced by public sentiment to pay his respects 
to the President he went wrapped in flannels and pleading an attack 
of the gout. With this solitary exception he was received every 
where with demonstrations of veneration and affection. His journal 
of this tour was published under the following title : Diary of George 
Washington from 1789 to 1791 ; embracing the opening of the first Con- 
gress, and his tours through New England . . . Edited by Benson J. 
Lossing, New York, 1860. 

[Oct. 29, 1789] From Boston, besides the number of citizens which 
accompanied me to Cambridge, and many of them from thence to 
Lynn — the Boston Corps of Horse escorted me to the line between 
Middlesex and Essex County, where a party of Horse, with Genl. 
Titcomb, met me, and conducted me through Marblehead (which is 
4 miles out of the way, but I wanted to see it,) to Salem. 

The chief employment of the People of Marblehead (males) is fish- 
ing; about 110 vessels, and 800 men and boys are engaged in this 
business. Their chief export is fish. About 5000 souls are said to 
be in this place, which has the appearance of antiquity ; the Houses 
are old ; the streets dirty ; and the common people not very clean. 
Before we entered the Town we were met and attended by a Com'e 
till we were handed over to the Select men, who conducted us, salut- 
ed by artillery, into the Town, to the House of a Mrs. Lee, where 
there was a cold collation prepared ; after partaking of which we 
visited the Harbour, their fish flakes for curing fish, &c., and then 
proceeded (first receiving an Address from the Inhabitants) to Salem. 

(167) 



168 GEORGE WASHINGTON IN 1789. 

At the Bridge, 2 miles from this Town, we were also met by a Com- 
mittee, who conducted us by a Brigade of the militia and one or two 
handsome Corps in Uniform, through several of the Streets to the 
Town or Court House, where an Ode in honor of the President was 
sung — an Address presented to him amidst the acclamations of the 
People ; after which he w^as conducted to his Lodgings. Rec'd the 
Compliments of many differt. classes of People, and in the evening, 
between 7 and 8 o'clock, went to an Assembly, where there was at 
least an hundred handsome and well dressed Ladies. Abt. nine I 
returned to my Lodgings. 

The Road from Boston to this place is here and there Stoney, tho' 
level ; it is very pleasant : from most parts you are in sight of the 
Sea. Meads, arable Land, and Rocky hills are much intermixed — 
the latter chiefly on the left. The Country seems to be in a manner 
entirely stripped of wood. The grazing is good — the Houses stand 
thick. 

After leaving Cambridge, at the distance of 4 miles, we passed 
through Mystick — then Maiden — next Lynn, where it is said 175,000 
pairs of shoes (women's, chiefly) have been made in a year by abt. 
400 workmen. This is only a row of houses, and not very thick, on 
each side of the Road. After passing Lynn you enter Marblehead, 
w'ch is 4 miles from Salem. This latter is a neat Town, and said to 
contain 8 or 9000 Inhabitants. Its exports are chiefly Fish, Lumber, 
and Provisions. They have in the East India Trade at this time 13 
Sail of Vessels. 

Friday [Oct.], 30th. A little after 8 o'clock I set out for Newbury- 
Port; and in less than 2 miles crossed the Bridge between Salem and 
Beverly, which makes a handsome appearance, and is upon the same 
plan of those over Charles and Mistick Rivers ; excepting that it has 
not foot ways as that of the former has. The length of this bridge 
is 1530 feet, and was built for about £4500, lawful money — a price 
inconceivably low in my estimation, as there is 18 feet water in the 
deepest parts of the River over which it is erected. This Bridge is 
larger than that at Charlestown, but shorter by feet than the 

other over Mistick. All of them have draw bridges, by which ves- 
sels pass. After passing Beverley, 2 miles, we come to the Cotton 




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GEORGE WASHINGTON IN 1789. 169 

Manufactory, which seems to be carrying on with spirit by the Mr. 
Cabbots (principally). 

In this Manufactory they have the new Invented Carding and 
Spinning Machines ; one of the first supplies the work, and four of 
the latter; one of which spins 84 threads at a time by one person. 
The Cotton is prepared for these Machines by being first (lightly) 
drawn to a thr'd, on the common wheel ; there is also another machine 
for doubling and twisting the threads for particular cloths ; this al- 
so does many at a time. For winding the Cotton from the Spindles, 
and preparing it for the warp, there is a Reel which expedites the 
work greatly. A number of Looms (15 or 16) were at work with 
spring shuttles, which do more than d'ble work. In short, the whole 
seemed perfect, and the Cotton stuffs w'ch they turn out, excellent 
of their kind ; warp and filling both are now of Cotton. From this 
place, with escorts of Horse, I passed on to Ipswich, about 10 miles ; 
at the entrance of which I was met and welcomed by the Select men, 
and received by a Regm't of Militia. 

At this place I was met by Mr, Dalton and some other Gentlemen 
from Newbury-port ; partook of a cold collation, and proceeded on 
to the last mentioned place, where I was received with much respect 
and parade, about 4 o'clock. 

In the evening there were rockets and some other fireworks — and 
every other demonstration to welcome me to the Town. This place 
is pleasantly situated on Merrimack River, and appears to have car» 
ried on (here and above) the shipbuilding business to a grt. extent. 
The number of souls is estimated at 5000. 

Saturday [Oct.] 31st. Left Newbury-port a little after 8 o'clock 
(first breakfasting with Mr. Dalton) and to avoid a wider ferry, more 
inconvenient boats, and a piece of heavy sand, we crossed the River 
at Salisbury, two miles above, and near that further about — and in 
three miles came to the line wch. divides the State of Massschusetts 
from that of New Hampshire. Here I took leave of Mr. Dalton and 
many other private Gentlemen who accompanied me ; also of Gen'l 
Titcomb, who met me on the line between Middlesex and x^osex 
Counties — Corps of light Horse, and many officers of Militia — and 
was rec'd by the President of the State of New Hampshire — the Vice- 



170 GEORGE WASHINGTON IN 1789, 

President ; some of the Council — Messrs. Langdon and Wingate of 
the Senate— Colo. Parker, Marshall of the State, and many other re- 
spectable characters ; besides several Troops of well cloathed Horse 
in handsome Uniforms, and many officers of the Militia also in hand- 
some (white and red) uniforms of the Manufacture of the State. . . . 

[Wednesday, Nov. 4th]. From hence, passing through Kingstown, 
(6 miles from Exeter) I arrived at Haverhill about half-past two, and 
stayed all night. Walked through the town, which stands at the 
head of the tide of Merrimack River, and in a beautiful part of the 
country. The lands over which I travelled to day, are pretty much 
mixed in places with stone — and the growth with pines — till I came 
near to Haverhill, where they disappeared, and the land had a more 
fertile appearance. The whole were pretty well cultivated, but used 
(principally) for grass and Indian corn. 

In Haverhill is a Duck manufactory, upon a small but ingenious 
scale, under the conduct of Colo. [Blodgett]. 

At this manufactory one small person turns a wheel which em- 
ploys eight spinners, each acting independently of each other, so as 
to occasion no interruption of the rest if any one of them is stopped 
— whereas at the Boston manufactory of this article, each spinner has 
a small girl to turn the wheel. The looms are also somewhat differ- 
ently constructed from those of the common kind, and upon an im- 
proved plan. The inhabit'ts of this small village were well disposed 
to welcome me to it by every demonstration which could evince their 
joy. 

Thursday, [Nov.] 5th. About sunrise I set out, crossing the Mer- 
rimack River at the town, over to the township of Bradford, and in 
nine miles came to Abbot's tavern, in Andover, where we breakfast- 
ed, and met with much attention from Mr. Phillips, President of the 
Senate of Massachusetts, who accompained us through Bellariki to 
Lexington, where I dined, and viewed the spot on which the first 
blood was spilt in the dispute with Great Britain, on the 19th of 
April, 1775. 



JOHN DRAYTON IN 1794. 

JOHN Drayton was born in South Carolina in 1766 and educated 
at Princeton and in England. He became Governor of South 
Carolina in 1800 and afterwards was a United States Judge for 
that State serving for ten years. He was the author of several works 
including the following : Letters written during a tour through the 
Northern and Eastern States . . . Charleston, 1794. 

The whole way from Boston to Portsmouth, is a thickly populated, 
and well cultivated country : the road is perhaps one of the finest in 
the United States. You pass from farm to farm, from village to vil- 
lage, and from town to town, in quick succession. Some few miles 
from Boston is a small village called Lynn ; celebrated for the vast 
quantities of shoes made there for exportation. The shoe-maker's 
shops, are almost equal to the number of dwelling houses in the town. 
The road leads through the towns of Salem, Beverly, and Newbury- 
port : which, for riches and commerce, have a right to be considered 
as some of the most respectable towns in America. 

Two or three miles beyond Newbury-port, is a beautiful wooden 
bridge of one arch, thrown across the Merrimack river: whose length 
is one hundred and sixty feet; and whose height is forty feet above 
the level of high water. For beauty and strength, it has certainly 
no equal in America : and I doubt whether as a wooden bridge, there 
be any to compare with it elsewhere. The strength of the bridge is 
much increased above the common mode in use, by pieces of timber 
placed upon it, and shouldered into each other. They run upon the 
bridge, in three lines ; parrallel with the length of the bridge, and 
with each other; so as to make two distinct passage-ways for carriages. 
These braces, are some feet in height, and are connected on the 
top by cross pieces, affording sufficient room for carriages to pass 
underneath, without inconvenience. It is said, that the upper work 
has as great a tendency to support the weight of the bridge ; as the 
sleepers, upon which it is built. I had not time to stay there longer 
than five minutes ; so must be excused in a sketch which I have taken 
of it : and that was not done upon the spot, but only by recollection. 

(171) 



DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT-LIANCOURT IN 1796. 

THE following account of the principal towns in Essex County 
was written by a trained observer — a man of varied ex- 
perience. A Peer of France, he was deeply interested in ag- 
riculture and the mechanical arts and while in America bought a 
farm in Pennsylvania and spent some time in agricultural experi- 
ments. He was in public life at the outbreak of the French Revolu- 
tion and maintained a moderate attitude until 1792 when he was 
dismissed and wisely removed to England from whence, two years 
later, he came to America. In 1798 he returned to France. He es- 
tablished in Paris the first savings bank and also was influential in 
introducing vaccination into France. His travels in the United States 
are of particular interest for the extended comments on the com- 
merce and development of the country. They were published in 
French, in eight small volumes, in New York in 1797, and translated 
and published in London with the following title : Travels through 
the United States of North America . . . in the years 1795, 1796 and 
1797 . . . London. 1800. 

On the first project I had formed to descend the river St. Lawrence, 
to visit Halifax, and to return into the United States through the 
district of Maine, I intended to visit General Knox, who, with ex- 
quisite politeness, had given me in Philadelphia an invitation to that 
effect, and whose mansion was situated on my way. On my arrival 
I entertained the same idea, although at that time the district of 
Maine lay rather out of my way ; and the repeated proofs of friend- 
ship I received from the General confirmed me in my resolution. I 
accordingly embarked with him for St. George's River, whither he 
returned after a four months absence. 

The house of the General is situated about two hundred miles from 
Boston, both by land and water. At this time of the year the passage 
is generally made in twenty-four hours ; but peculiar circumstances 
prevented us for three or four days from availing ourselves of the 
favourable wind ; and after these impediments had been removed, 
our captain wished, as soon as possible, to improve the first appear- 

(172) 



DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT-LIANCOURT IN 1796. 173 

ance of fine weather. This was very trifling indeed, when he set 
sail, for which reason we were scarcely able the first evening to clear 
the mouth of the harbour. On the second day we were forced by a 
thick fog, and strong indication of a heavy storm, to make the bay 
of Cape Ann. These measures of precaution, adopted by our captain, 
of which we could not but approve, removed us forty miles out of 
the straight road. As soon as the fog and indication of a storm had 
disappeared, we got again under way ; but meeting with a dead calm, 
we were obliged to come once more to an anchor, within four hundred 
yards of our first anchoring place. The wind generally died away 
early in the morning as well as the afternoon, for which reason we 
reached not the General's mansion till after a passage of seventy-two 
hours, and after having sailed fifteen miles up St. George's River. 

The circumstance of our being compelled to put into the bay of 
Cape Ann afforded me an opportunity of seeing the drying of cod 
fish. The whole coast of Massachusetts, and especially of the dis- 
trict of Maine, is inhabited by fishermen, engaged in the fishery on 
the great sand-bank ; they bring all the fish on shore, where they 
receive the last dressing. The fish are washed as soon as they are 
taken out of the water, and laid first in heaps, that the water may 
run off. Then they remain for two or three days exposed to the air, 
after which they are placed on hurdles, about four or five feet in 
breadth, three or four feet above the ground, and as long as the field 
on which they are erected, generally about a hundred or a hundred 
and twenty yards. The fish are laid on these hurdles, first three or 
four, one upon another, and, after they have lost most of the water, 
every fish separately ; they are frequently turned that they may get 
thoroughly dry, which generally takes five or six days; at last they 
are packed in cases, pressed down, and exported either to the West 
India Islands, or Europe. 

The best fish, that is, those which, caught in the first fishing months, 
are superiour to the rest from their being dried more slowly, are 
sent to Spain. They are sold at double the price of those, which are 
caught later in the year, when the heat is more intense, and which 
are exported either to the West Indies, or some part of the continent. 
But from among the fish of the better sort, which are destined for 



174 DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT-LIANCOURT IN 1796. 

Spain, the best are picked out for those inhabitants of Massachusetts, 
who are peculiarly fond of salt stock fish ; and there are in that county 
few families, who have not, every Saturday, a good dish of stock fish 
on their table. As to the usual partition of the proceeds of the fishery, 
it is as follows, viz. 

The ships employed in the fishery, which are generally of seventy 
tuns burthen, are navigated by a master, seven seamen, and a boy. 
The owner of the ship has a fourth of the profit ; the dryer on the 
coast an eighth, and the rest is divided among the master and sea- 
men, in proportion to the fish they have caught. The expence for 
candles, wood, bait, and salt is deducted, previously to the partition ; 
every seaman takes care of the fish he has caught. A vessel of sixty 
tons burthen takes upon an average twelve hundred cod fish, which 
are generally worth two dollars and a half per hundred weight, but 
cost at present from five to six dollars. 

The town of Gloucester, which is situated near Cape Ann, employs 
in the fishery, at the great bank, about forty or fifty yachts and brigs. 
These vessels are of the burthen of one hundred or one hundred 
and ten tons ; make in general three voyages in a year, if they com- 
mence fishing in March, and continue until November, when the fish- 
ery terminates. Before the war, the town of Gloucester, though less 
considerable than at present, employed more vessels in the fishery 
than at this time. This decrease, which seems extraordinary, since 
the number of ships built in this port is much greater now than at 
that time, originates from the comparatively greater advantages, 
which the ship-owners derive from trade. But the number of towns, 
which share in the fishery on the great banks, is also more consider- 
able than formerly ; so that although the share of single places in the 
fishery may have decreased within these last fifteen years, yet the 
number of those that share in it has greatly encreased. 

Besides the fishery on the great bank, the coasts of Massachusetts, 
and the district of Maine, furnish also large quantities of stock fish. 
They are neither so large, nor so plentiful, as at the great bank ; yet 
this fishery affords useful employment to a considerable number of 
ships, which proceed only five or six miles from the coast, return 
home every week, and are not exposed to the same danger as ships 



DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT-LIANCOURT IN 1796. 175 

engaged in the other fishery, which mix their fish with those that are 
caught near Newfoundland. 

The road of Cape Ann lies south-west from the Cape. It is capa- 
cious and safe. On a commanding eminence on the coast, a fort is 
now constructing, which will most effectually protect both the road 
and its entrance. Within the fort a block-house is built, the lower 
part of which serves for a powder-magazine ; and that part, which 
is destined to be inhabited by the garrison, is built with so much care 
that in all probability it will be bomb-proof. 

The town of Gloucester, situated at the bottom of the bay, is pleas- 
ant, though not regular. It contains a number of stores or shops, 
and a considerable proportion of good houses. Like all the other 
small towns around, it has an air of brisk and thriving industry. 

In 1794, commodities to the value of two hundred and twenty 
thousand eight hundred and fifty dollars were exported out of Glou- 
cester ; but its exports for the present year will scarcely amount to 
one hundred and eighty thousand dollars. Its chief trading inter- 
course is with the West Indies. 

We have obtained little new information in the course of our voy» 
age thither. We came on board a vessel belonging to St. George's 
River, which usually takes in its lading there. The principal com- 
mercial business of the province of Maine consists in the exportation of 
timber to Boston. It is conveyed in small yachts from eighty to a 
hundred and twenty tons burthen; sometimes brigs and schooners are 
employed. The yachts are, however, preferred , because they are light- 
er than the others, and can be navigated by fewer hands. At times 
these yachts will proceed as far as New York, Philadelphia, Norfolk, 
Baltimore, or Charlestown. From these places they are always 
freighted back with a new cargo, by which the profits of the voyage 
are increased. From Boston they must return empty, and therefore 
less readily undertake that voyage. The clear profits of a single 
voyage were estimated at sixty-six dollars. One of these vessels 
made, last year, sixteen or seventeen voyages ; and the owner's neat 
gains for that length of time amounted to between one thousand and 
fifty-six and one thousand one hundred and twelve dollars; while the 
cost of the vessel was from three thousand to three thousand three 



176 DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT-LIANCOURT IN 1796. 

hundred and fifty dollars. When the timber is uncommonly excellent 
in its quality, the profits are greater. The returns are also unusually 
good from cargoes of lime, of which there begins to be abundance 
found in the province of Maine. When the population of this prov- 
ince shall have adequately increased, and its quarries shall be wrought 
in a due proportion, it will then find a very ample source of wealth 
in the exportation of its lime stone. 

The vessel in which we sailed was dirty and incommodious. Like 
the rest of this craft, it was fitted for the reception of goods, not for 
the accommodation of a few casual passengers. But the attentions 
of the captain made everything as agreeable as possible to us. It is 
to be observed, that these vessels very often go without a lading, and 
many times return even without ballast; a condition of the ship, which 
makes prudence and vigilence in the captain peculiarly necessary. 
Our food, during the short voyage, consisted chiefly of fish, which 
we caught ourselves. Of these there is on the coast such plenty, that 
before your line has been cast two minutes, you are sure to have a 
fish on your hook, which will weigh, at the least, two pounds, often 
not less thon twelve pounds. They are of the species of the cod fish 
and the halibut ; the cod fish are larger, and worse in their flavour 
than those of many other places. . . . 

Before you arrive at Newbury Port, you have to cross the river 
Merrimack, by means of a bridge, which, prior to the building of that 
thrown over the Piscataqua, was considered as the most elegant in 
all New England. It is at least shorter by one third than the latter, 
and the arch, which measures only one hundred and thirty feet in 
width, is supported by a crooked piece of timber, measuring twenty 
feet, which gives the bridge, at first sight, a heavy appearance. Along 
the banks of the river, before you come to this bridge, lies Newbury 
new town, a pretty extensive village, where a number of ships are 
built, which are afterwards equipped, and freighted in Newbury Port. 
Mr. Langdon had furnished me with a letter of recommendation to 
his friend JACKSON, from whom I flattered myself with the hopes 
of receiving some information relative to the town and its trade. 
But this gentleman being absent in Boston, I was obliged to content 
myself with the intelligence I could procure from some inhabitants, 



DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT-LIANCOURT IN 1796. 177 

whom I found in the inn. I learnt that the trade of this town, which, 
as well as that of Portsmouth, had decayed very much since the con- 
clusion of the war, was, for the last years, considerably on the ad- 
vance ; that it was of the same nature with that carried on at Ports- 
mouth, and other parts of Massachusetts ; that the quantity of ton- 
nage now employed by this town, amounted to sixteen thousand tons ; 
that the exports were valued, in 1791, at two hundred and fifty thou- 
sand one hundred and ninety-three dollars ; in 1792, at two hundred 
and seventy-three thousand five hundred and forty-three dollars ; 
in 1794, at four hundred and ninety-five thousand four hundred and 
five dollars ; in 1795, at four hundred and ten thousand five hundred 
and eighty-six dollars; that it has very few fishermen; that the har- 
bour and moorings are good, safe, and deep, the quays commodious 
and very extensive. The town is almost as large as Portsmouth. 
Unfortunately there is a shoal of quicksands at the entrance of the 
haven, which obstructs the navigation two or three times in the 
course of the year. To guard against the mischief, which other- 
wise might befall vessels, that have made long voyages, two light- 
houses have been erected on the coast, one of which is moveable, 
and capable of being always stationed behind the other, according 
to the actual situation of the pass. By steering their course direct 
against that point, at which the second light-house is concealed be- 
hind the first, vessels are enabled to sail day and night into the har- 
bour, without running the risk of driving on the sand banks. 

Newbury Port is built on the river Merrimack. It has ten public 
schools. A society of inhabitants of the town, known by the name 
of the Sea Company, have established a very benevolent institution, 
consisting of several small houses on Plumb Island, which lies in the 
mouth of the river, where persons, who have suffered ship-wreck, find 
some provisions, fire- wood, and other articles of immediate necessity. 

Newbury Port carries on a considerable trade with the Antilles, 
and receives molasses in return, which keeps from eight to ten boiling- 
houses in employ. There are likewise some breweries in the town, 
and a very large nail manufactory, which appeared to me to be very 
skilfully conducted. Newbury Port contains about four thousand 
inhabitants. 



178 DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT-LIANCOURT IN 1796. 

The road from Portsmouth to Boston is one continued series of 
houses, shop-booths, small manufactories and villages. It is an un- 
interrupted garden. The road is in every part better than any I 
have ever seen in America. It would be considered a delightful 
road, even in the most beautiful districts of France and England. 

Ipswich, one of the most considerable villages on this road, is sit- 
uated on a river, to which it gives name, and on which some ships 
are built. This small harbour participates in the large trade carried 
on with Massachusetts, but not so extensively at present, as in for- 
mer years. Flax is pretty abundantly cultivated in all districts of 
the province, and seems to thrive well. But it is said to be in great- 
er abundance at a greater distance from the coast, at least every 
where more so than hemp. 

Beverley is another small neat village, through which the road 
passes to Boston. Its harbour lies on the South River. It is situat- 
ed on a peninsula formed by that and the North River. The trade of 
this village is confined entirely to stock-fish, in which branch forty 
vessels are employed. The fish are cured in the village itself, which 
renders it very unpleasant to pass through. The number of vessels, 
which sail from this port to Europe or the colonies, is not considerable. 
Salem engrosses almost the whole trade. 

Salem is one of the handsomest small towns in the United States, 
and is separated from Beverley only by a bridge, fifteen hundred feet 
in length. The number of its inhabitants, which increases yearly, 
amounts to ten thousand. The town, in reference to its trade, ranks 
with those of the sixth rank in America, and with those of the second 
rank in Massachusetts. The uncommonly active and enterprising 
spirit of its inhabitants is the sole reason which can be ascribed for 
the great extent and rapid progress of its trade. This town has no 
cultivated land behind it to supply its exports, which in America is 
with justice considered as one of the most essential articles of com- 
merce. Its haven is but small, at ebb the quays are dry, and vessels 
of a larger size must even, at high water, unload a part of their cargo, 
in order to be able to reach these quays. Yet, notwithstanding these 
inconveniences, the annual freightage from this port exceeds twenty 
thousand tons. The vessels employed in this service sail to all parts of 



pUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT-LIANCOURT IN 1796. 179 

the globe; twelve of them, for instance, are engaged in the East India 
trade, one of which arrived from Calcutta the day prior to my entering 
the town, after an absence of nine months and twelve days, of which 
thirty-two days were passed at Calcutta. The number of vessels, 
constituting the above mentioned rate of twenty thousand tons, 
amounts to one hundred and fifty, one hundred of which are in the for- 
eign trade, twenty are coasters, and thirty follow the employment of 
fishing. The exports amounted, in 1791, to six hundred and ten thou- 
sand and five dollars ; in 1792, to six hundred and fifty-seven thou- 
sand three hundred and three dollars ; in 1793, to eight hundred and 
twelve thousand and sixty-six dollars ; in 1794, to one million four 
hundred and fifty-two thousand four hundred and eleven dollars ; in 
1795, to one million five hundred and four thousand five hundred 
and eleven dollars. As Salem and Beverley have only one custom- 
house in common for both places, the exports from the latter form 
a proportion in this calculation, but it is very inconsiderable. 

With the exception of two or three large fortunes of nearly three 
hundred thousand dollars, the opulence of the merchants is not very 
great ; but all the inhabitants find themselves in a flourishing con- 
dition, which is the less subject to a reverse, as the mode of living is 
very frugal, and as luxury is hitherto little known amongst them. 
Hence all the profits acquired by trade, are reimbarked in trade; and 
this accumulation of interest upon interest insures them a large capital, 
by which they are enabled to bear up against any casual losses. The 
inajor part of the shipping from Salem is freighted from Virginia or 
South Carolina. In these provinces of America, the land yields a 
greater abundance of produce, than the vessels employed in their 
ports will suffice to export. The industry of the northern ports, 
therefore, is here very valuable, the produce being in an inverse ratio 
to the shipping, compared with the southern states. Salem exports, 
however, annually from seven to eight thousand pounds of salt beef, 
and eighteen thousand barrels of fish. This latter article has, for 
some years past, been greatly on the decline, the inhabitants of Salem, 
and the other ports, preferring the wholesale trade as more lucrative. 
The commodities imported from the East and West Indies, form 
likewise a branch of the export trade of this port. Hemp, iron, Rus- 



180 DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT-LIANCOURT IN 1796. 

sia leather, are emplyed in the coasting trade. Few foreign vessels 
put in here. The inhabitants of Salem say, that their own industry 
leaves no room for the speculations of strangers. 

An European, who fancies that a man cannot be qualified to act 
as a captain of a ship, till he has made a number of voyages, and 
passed through a regular course of study, is not a little surprized, 
when he is informed, that the merchants of Salem entrust their ships 
to young persons, who have frequently been only one year at sea. 
As they have grown up in the business of the compting-house, they 
are perfectly acquainted with the price, the quality, and the sale of 
each different commodity. The first year they are associated with 
a skilful steersmate, and act at once in the capacity of captain and 
supercargo. Their vessels, whatever may be the cause, do not suffer 
ship-wreck more frequently than other ships, which are more cautious- 
ly navigated. In the course of a few years these young people become 
merchants themselves, the captain's profits being very considerable. 
As they generally are appointed from the families of merchants, they 
receive assistance from their employers. 

The inconveniences which Salem experiences from the shallowness 
of its harbour, secure them against all hostile attacks. The entrance 
to the haven is not in the slightest degree defended, nor is it, indeed, 
capable of defence. 

I was upon terms of great intimacy with Mr. Goodhue, a member 
of the Congress, whom I had seen at Philadelphia. The friendly re- 
ception that gentleman gave me, and the patience with which he re- 
solved my questions, entitled him to the same praise, as indeed all 
the persons are entitled to, whom I met with in the course of my 
long journey. Mr. Goodhue is a man of strong intellect, of very 
plain manners, and is very well informed. In his political principles 
he is a federalist, and of course an advocate for the treaty with Eng- 
land. The town of Salem entertains the same opinion as he does, 
in this respect, chiefly on account of their dread of a war, which they 
consider as the inevitable consequence of the non-ratification of the 
treaty. 

Before I take my leave of Salem, I must remark, that the day 
previous to my departure, a vessel arrived in this port from Bordeaux, 



DUKE DE LA ROCHEFOUCAULT-LIANCOURT IN 1796. 181 

which brought a great quantity of silver dishes and plates, in pay- 
ment for flour, which had been sold to France. The plate was val- 
ued by weight, and constituted a part of the confiscated property of 
the emigrants. 

Salem is the capital of the county of Essex, and contains, upon an 
average, about nine thousand inhabitants. It is a handsome town, 
the houses are good, small, and neat, and perfectly accord with the 
manner of the inhabitants. The Senate House is a spacious, and 
even elegant building. 

Salem has a sail-cloth manufactory, which employs a great num- 
ber of skilful hands. 

This town is the second settlement erected by the Europeans, in 
the Massachusetts. It was begun in 1628, and was the principal 
scene of the cruelties, which ignorance, superstition, and the perse- 
cuting spirit of the priests, and their deluded votaries, inflicted, in 
1692, on the pretended sorcerers. 

On the same bay with Salem lies another small port, which, in re- 
spect to its shipping, is of greater consequence than Beverley. Mar- 
blehead, which is situated in the midst of rocks, trades only in stock 
fish. All the men are so entirely occupied in fishing, that the town, 
to a stranger, who passes through the streets, appears to be solely 
inhabited by women and children, all of whom have a most miser- 
able and wretched appearance. Marblehead has a custom-house, and 
the exports from this place consist in a variety of articles, the value 
of which, in 1794, amounted to one hundred and twenty-four thous- 
and dollars. 

Lynn, which is dependent upon the former place, is another small 
haven, lying nine miles nearer to Boston. It is famous for its shoe 
manufactory. There is scarcely a house, which is not inhabited by 
a shoe-maker ; four hundred thousand pairs, most of the women's 
shoes, are made here every year. This port carries on no other trade 
than the exportation of shoes to Boston, New York, and Philadelphia, 
from which places a great number are sent over to England. A 
quantity are even exported directly to Europe from Lynn itself. 



ROBERT GILMOR IN 1797. 

ROBERT Gilmor was a gentleman of large fortune who lived in 
Baltimore, Maryland, where he possessed a gallery of paintings 
and sculpture and a cabinet of minerals and coins. His father 
was a prosperous merchant and the son travelled widely for those 
days. He was only twenty-three years old when he made his tour 
through New England which he illustrated with pen and ink sketches. 
He was famous for his hospitality and during his life kept volumin- 
ous journals which are still preserved by his descendants. He died 
in 1848. His account of travels in Massachusetts was published by 
the Boston Public Library in its Bulletin for April, 1892 under the 
following title : Memorandums made in a tour to the Eastern States in 
the year 1797, by Robert Gilmor. 

On Thursday afternoon, Mr. Hay, (a fellow boarder) & I took our 
seats in the Salem Stage and at Dark arrived at Salem. We had 
time to visit several places in this town, particularly the wharves, 
where we saw a number of fine vessels. 

This place carries on an extensive commerce & had lately (sent) out 
more East Indiamen than all the rest of the United States together. 
The principal merchant here, Mr Derby, has just built a most supert) 
house, more like a palace then the dwelling of an American mer- 
chant. 

In our way to Salem we passed through a number of pretty little 
villages one of which, Lynn, is scarcely inhabited by any but shoe- 
makers. This little town supplies even the Southern States with 
women shoes for exportation. The women work also and we scarce- 
ly passed a house where the trade was not carried on. A woman 
can make four pair a day & a man has been mentioned to me who 
could make double that quantity. 

We left Salem about 7 the next morning in the Portsmouth Stage 
which left Philada (?) * that day. As there was not room for us all, 
and I did not choose to be left behind, I agreed with Mr. Hay to ride 
on the coachman's box with him alternately for 25 miles, when one 

*Probably means Boston. 

(182) 



? ^ 



^ X 

O O 
- 2 

3 m 

2 O 

-n 

O 
O 




ROBERT GILMOR IN 1797. 183 

of the passengers left us. I did not expect to find the seat so agre- 
able but after a little I preferred it to an inside one. After riding 
45 miles through one of the pleasantest countries in the State, we 
got to Portsmouth in the evening and met with 2 gentlemen who 
had boarded with us at Mrs Archibald's waiting at the inn the stage 
stopped at, to shew us lodgings in the house they put up at. 

As I had omitted bringing any letters to some respectable person 
in Portsmouth, I felt rather awkward when I found from the arrange- 
ment of the stages, I should be obliged to remain here two days. 
The gentlemen who came with me had several letters, by means of 
which they were always in company. A Mr Boyd however hearing 
I had come along with M Hay politely invited me to dine with him 
on Sunday & to join a party on Saturday evening that were going to 
Piscataqua bridge, which is the only one of the kind in America and 
a surprizing work. It's length is about 2200 feet, including a sjnall 
island which it rests upon in the middle of the river. From a small 
rock to this island a single arch of 240 feet is thrown over the deep- 
est and most rapid part of the river. It is handsomely executed and 
painted white. The arch is not supported by the abutments but by 
braces which are opposed and support it from above. While the 
company were viewing the work I ran about half a mile to the only 
place where I could get a tolerable view for a picture. Then seated 
on a rock I made the sketch at the end of this book, which part I 
allotted for designs of such objects as struck me during my tour and 
which could be comprehended in a slight sketch. 

About dusk it began to rain, and we were obliged to wait till it 
was over, when we rode back in our chaises to Portsmouth in a very 
dark night. This bridge is distant from Ports. 6 1/2 miles. 

On Sunday I dined with Mr Boyd ; in the evening drank tea with 
Mrs Bowman (a lady lately married & very beautiful who was so polite 
as to ask me to visit her while I staid here. She was very agreable 
and kept up the spirits of the company with a great deal of gaiety,) 

At 4 o'clock on Monday afternoon I got into the Stage and returned 
to Boston by the way of Exeter & Haverhill. Both of which are very 
pretty little villages, particularly the latter which is situated very pleas- 
antly on the Banks of the Merrimack. Across this river is thrown 



184 ROBERT GILMOR IN 1797. 

one of the new constructed bridges like that of Piscataqua, only this 
has 3 arches instead of one, and the work which supports the whole 
is above instead of being just below the bridge. I had time enough 
before dinner to step to the water's edge and take a sketch of it. 
While I stood there, with my drawing book laid upon a pile of plank 
which happened to be convenient, and intent on my work, I did not 
observe the tide which rose very fast and on looking down perceived 
myself up to my ancles in the river. The water rose so gradually 
that I did not feel it and never suspected that it could have (been) 
the case. 

The next day after leaving Portsmouth I got to Boston in the 
evening and took up my former lodgings at Mrs Archibald's. 

During this little excursion I had passed thro' a number of pretty 
villages, and in most places a delightful country. The road by which 
I went lay through all the principal trading towns to the Eastward 
of Boston, and in a great part in sight of the sea. The one by which 
I returned was made for the convenience of a number of principal 
country towns; of course I had a tolerable opportunity of judging 
of the country. 

It is something remarkable that the people of New England in 
general have adopted a number of words in common conversation & 
which they interlard their discourse continually, that are not used 
in the same sense by the other part of America. At Portsmouth in 
New Hampshire particularly I remembered the following. If I ob- 
served such a thing was handsome, they would answer quite hand- 
some. If I asked the way or an opinion, the answer always was pre- 
ceded by I guess, so & so. A handsome man they call a nice man & 
I am frequently asked how long I mean to tarry in such a place, or 
if I made a tarry there. These and some other expressions are com- 
mon to a fault, and are used even by the best informed among some 
of us travellers, and sometimes in company we would fall into the 
same fault from a satirical disposition. 



INDEX. 



Abbot, Samuel, 135. 
Abrahams, Woodward, 78, 79. 
Adams, Conrad, 55. 

John, 87. 

Joseph, Rev., 91. 

William, 55. 
Agawam, 6, 13, 17, 21, 30. 
Allen, Jonathan, Rev., 105. 

Judadiah, 46. 
Amesbury, 97, 104, 111. 
Andover, 26, 30, 80, 105, 106, 113, 135, 

137, 139, 143, 166, 170. 
Andrews, , 141. 

, Rev., 104. 

Annapolis, Md., 64. 
Anne, Cape, 1, 4, 6, 7, 8, 9, 60. 
Annisquam, 29, 43, 44. 
Appleton, , xvi. 

Hetty, 74. 

Nathaniel, Rev., 74. 

Bachelder, Stephen, Rev., 20. 

Bacon, , Col., 96. 

Bagnal, Benjamin, xiv. 
Bakers' Island (Salem), 120. 
Balch, William, Rev., 105. 
Baldwin, Simeon, 96. 

Simeon E., Gov., 96. 
Barnard, John, Rev., 62, 71, 127. 

Thomas, Rev., 88. 
Barren, Joseph, 92, 93. 

Bartlett, , 143. 

Bass, Edward, Rev., 116. 
Beach, John, Capt, 129, 131. 
Belcher, Jonathan, Gov., 94. 
Bell, Benjamin, Rev., 97, 111. 
Bentley, William, Rev., 71, 98, 103. 
Beverly, 27, 84, 85, 97, 112, 115, 127, 

142, 150, 165, 168, 178. 
Billerica, 80. 
Bishop, , 87. 

George, xii. 
Bixby, William K., 64. 

Black, , 160, 162. 

Blindman, Richard, Rev., 24. 
Blodget, , 110. 



Bollan, William, 95. 
Boston, X, xi, 18, 19, 21, 27, 36, 44, 45, 
56, 57, 62, 64, 71, 73, 77, 78, 79, 85, 
91, 99, 167. 
Boston harbor, 2. 
Boxford, 111, 113, 140, 153. 

Bradford, , 97. 

Bradford, xvi, 80, 105, 109, 143, 170. 
Bradstreet, John, 55. 

Samuel, Dr., 55. 
Brickett, James, Col., 110. 
Brown, Joseph, xi. 

Nathaniel, xvi. 
Browne, Benjamin, 56. 

William, Col., 87. 

William, Maj., 55, 67, 70, 74. 
Bryar, Joseph, xiii. 
Burnet, William, Gov., 67, 74, 75. 
Burnyeat, John, xiii. 
Burroughs, Edward, 58. 
Byfield, Moses, 55. 
Byfield Parish, 121, 134, 142, 149. 

Cabot, John, 113. 

Cadillac, de la Mothe, x. 

Cambridge, 53. 

Cape Ann, 19, 24, 29, 34, 153, 173. 

Carter, Joshua, 105. 

Gary, Thomas, Rev., 103, 104, 116. 

Cartwright, John, xiii. 

Castiglioni, Luigi, 99. 

Chalkley, Thomas, xiii. 

Champlain, Samuel de, 1. 

Charles river, 10. 

Charlestown, 12, 30, 31, 64, 73, 76, 86. 

Chastelleux, Francois Jean, Marquis, 

80. 
Chebacco, 123, 155, 161. 
Cheever, Samuel, Rev., 62. 

Choate, , 69, 70. 

Clark, , 90, 96. 

, Rev., 71. 

Clarke, , Dr., 101. 

Samuel, Rev., ix. 
Clement, William, 59. 
Cleveland, John, Rev., 107, 124, 128. 



(185) 



186 



INDEX. 



Cobbet, Thomas, Rev., 19. 
Coleman, — — , Rev., 62. 
Collins, Samuel, 46, 47. 

Zaccheus, xiv, xv. 

Comfort, , Mrs., 37, 39, 42, 43, 44. 

Concord, 80. 

Cotton, , Rev., 72. 

Josiah, vii. 
Cranch, Richard, 87, 88. 

WiUiam, Justice. 87. 
Cashing, , Dea., 88. 

John, Judge, 91. 92. 
Cutler, Manassah, Rev., 94, 98, 100, 
115. 

Dalton, Tristram, 105, 166. 
Dana, Joseph, Rev., xvi, 97, 98. 
Danvers, 94, 129, 130, 135, 151. 
Davenport, Anthony, 81. 
Dean, John, Capt., 92. 
Derby, Elias Hasket, 182. 
Dover (N. H.)._51. 
Dow, Henry, 4/, 48, 49, 50, 51, 53. 

Mary, 47. 
Downer, J., v. 
Drayton, John, 171. 

Drinkwater, , 36. 

Drowne, Harry Russell, xv. 

Solomon, Dr., xv. 
Druillettes, Gabriel, Father, ix. 
Dudley, Thomas, Gov., xi, 13. 
Dummer, Richard, 22. 
Dummer Academy, 121, 134, 142. 

Duncan, , xvi. 

Dunton, John, 31. 

Dutch, , xvi. 

Dyer, Mary, xiv. 

Eaton, Joseph, 89, 90. 

Edmundson, William, xiii. 

Elkins, Joseph, Capt., 109. 

Emerson, Bulkely, 77. 

Endecott, John, Gov., x, 8, 9, 34, 89, 

93, 95, 151. 
Estes, Matthew, 46. 
Richard, 46. 

Falmouth (Me.), 90. 

Farnham, , 89, 90, 94, 95. 

Fille, de, , 85. 

Finlay, Hugh, 77. 
Fiske, John, Gen.. 144. 

John. Rev., 24, 163. 
Fletcher, T., 90. 
Forster, , 80. 



Foster, , Dea., 88. 

James, 78. 

Foxcroft, , 77. 

Franklin, Benjamin, 77. 

Frazier, , 94. 

Freeborn, Susannah, 47. 
Frisbie, Levi, Rev., 97, 98, 116. 
Frothergill, John, xiv. 

Gaskin, Samuel, 53. 
Gerrish, John, Rev., 163. 

Joseph, Rev., 38. 
Gibaut, John, Capt., 153. 
Gibbs, Henry, 96, 97, 98. 
Gilmor, Robert, 182. 
Gloucester, 4, 5, 9, 24, 27, 29, 34, 42, 
43, 106, 117, 122, 128, 131, 153, 173. 
Glover, Joseph, 23. 
Goelet, Francis, Capt., 73. 

Goffe, , 89, 90. 

Goodhue, , 85, 90, 92. 

Benjamin, 112, 180. 

Stephen, 96. 

William, 165. 
Gray, William, 121. 
Greenland (N. H.), 81, 90. 

Greenleaf, , xvi. 

Greenough, Chester N., 31. 
Gridley, Jeremy, 93. 

Hacker, Jeremiah, xv. 

Hale, , Esq., 97. 

Hamilton, Alexander, Dr., 64. 

Hamilton, 100, 124. 

Ham.pton (N. H.), xiii, 24, 25, 30, 46, 

58, 69, 72, 81, 97. 
Hancock, John, Gov., 167. 

Hart, , 89. 

Harward, , 80. 

Hatch, , 95. 

Haverhill, xiv, xvi, 25, 26, 30, 46, 51, 
53, 80, 81, 105, 108, 143, 170, 183. 

Hayler, , 56. 

Herrick, , 33, 34, 35, 36. 

Heussler, George, 131. 
Hibbert, Thomas, Rev., 111. 
Higginson, Francis, Rev., 8. 

John, Rev., 35, 54. 

Nathaniel, 54, 56. 
Hill, , 88. 

S., v. 
Holmes, Benjamin, xiv. 
Holyoke, Eleazer, Rev., 140, 153. 
Hooper, , 94. 

Stephen, 104, 105. 



INDEX. 



187 



Hopkins, Daniel, Rev., 98. 

Howel, , 68, 70. 

Hoyt, Moses, 112. 
Hubbard, Tuthill, 78, 79. 

William, Rev., 41. 
Humphrey, John, 19. 
Huntington, Asahel, Rev., 153. 
Hutchinson, Thomas, Judge, 94. 

Indians, xiii, 1, 2, 3, 4, 10, 11, 13, 14, 
15, 29, 37, 41, 42, 43, 44, 47, 48, 49, 
50, 53, 61, 80, 99. 

Ipswich, xii, xvi, 6, 17, 20, 21, 22, 23, 
27, 29, 30, 34, 37, 38, 39, 40, 41, 46, 
47, 61, 68, 70, 71, 72, 78, 84, 89, 90, 
93, 95, 97, 98, 100, 115, 125, 134, 
142, 169, 178. 

Jackson, Jonathan, 94, 104, 116, 176. 
Jamaica (Salisbury), 51. 
Jenner, Thomas, Capt., 34. 

Jewett, , Capt., 90. 

Johnson, Edward, 20, 40. 
Johnston, Benjamin, v. 

Jones, , 69. 

Josselyn, John, 28, 31. 

Keith, George, Rev., 57. 

Kent, , 88, 93. 

Kettel, , 91, 92. 

Kilham, Daniel, Dr., 104, 117. 

Kimball, , Rev., 105. 

King, , 92, 97. 

Kinsman, — — , xvi. 

Kitteridge, Thomas, Dr., 106, 114, 140, 

144. 
Knight, William, Rev., 19. 
Knox, Henry, Gen., 172. 

Langdon, , 97. 

Law, — , 97. 
Lechford, Thomas, 18. 
Ledra, William, xiv. 
Lee, , 95. 

, Miss, 82. 

Hannah, 129. 

Jeremiah, Col., 126. 
Leslie, Alexander, Lt.-Col., 89, 142. 
Levett, Christopher, 7. 
Little, Moses, Dr., 148. 
London (Eng.), 45. 

Lovejoy, , Col., 136. 

Lowell, , 94, 95. 

- — , Rev., 72. 
Lynde, Benjamin, Judge, 88, 94. 



Lynn, xiv, xv, 14, 19, 20, 28, 32, 46, 47, 
53, 57, 61, 64, 73, 76, 86, 96, 99, 164, 
167, 168, 171, 181, 182. 

Lynn End, 89. 

McKeen, James, Rev., 117, 123. 

McKey, Peggy, 97, 98. 

Malcolm, Alexander, Rev., 65, 66, 67, 

68, 70. 
Maiden, 88, 91. 

Manchester, 27, 120, 124, 128, 129, 131. 
Manning, James, Rev., xv. 

John, Dr., xii. 
Marblehead, viii, x, xi, 10, 16, 28, 

29, 31, 38, 47, 53, 61, 62, 64, 70, 71, 

72, 75, 76, 78, 79, 87, 96, 107, 125, 

140, 167, 168, 181. 

March, , Col., 90. 

Marquand, , 148. 

Marshall, Thomas, Capt., 37. 

Martin, , 87, 88, 90, 92. 

Mather, Cotton, Rev., 91. 
Maverick, Samuel, 26, 28. 
Medford, 99. 
Merrimack river, xvi, 2, 13, 17, 22, 24, 

25, 26, 30, 38, 61, 81, 101, 114, 137, 

166, 169. 
Methuen, xvi, 89, 115, 143, 144. 
Middleton, 105. 

Miller, , 19. 

Moll, Herman, ix, 60. 

Montgomery, , Gen., 77. 

Montesquieu, — — , de, 82. 

Monts, , de, 2, 4. 

Moody, Deborah, Lady, 19. 

M., 134. 
Moriarty, George Andrews, 99. 
Morrell, Jocob, 51, 52. 
Murray, John, Rev., 103, 116, 120, 132. 
Mycail, John, 97, 104, 112, 113, 117, 

148. 
Mystic, 76, 96. 
Mystic river, 13, 30, 64. 

Nahant, 14, 29, 86, 108. 
Nantasket, 86. 
Naumkeag, 6, 9, 10, 12. 

Neal, , 61. 

Newbury, xii, xiv, 22, 23, 25, 26, 30, 

47, 50, 59, 61, 69, 70, 72, 77, 81, 90, 
. 94, 97, 98, 103, 104, 111, 115, 122, 

165. 
Newburyport, xi, 71, 81, 84, 97, 98, 101, 

103, 112, 132, 134, 142, 148, 166. 

169, 171, 176. 



188 



INDEX 



Newington (N. H.),90. 
New York (N. Y.), 73. 
Nichols, Thomas, 48, 51. 
Noble, John, 79. 

Oliver, Rev., 105, 112. 
Norris, Edward, 78, 79. 
Norton, , 103. 

John, Rev., 19. 

Lydia, xv, 47. 

Norwood, , 87, 88. 

Noyes, , Capt., 103. 

James, Rev., 19, 22. 

Joseph, Capt., 148. 

Nicholas, Rev., 36. 

Ogilby, John, ix. 
Oldmixon, John, 60. 
Oliver, Andrew, Judge, 94. 
Orne, Joseph, Dr., v. 

Paisley, Joseph, 46. 
Palmer, , 36. 

Esther, 47. 
Parker, Isaac, 136. 

Robert, 19. 

Thomas, Rev., 19, 22. 
Parris, Samuel, Rev., 60. 
Parrot, John, xiii. 
Parsons, Hannah, Miss., 97, 98. 
Patteson, George, xiii. 
Pearce, David, Col., 129, 131. 
Pemaquid, 8. 
Pemberton, E., 105. 

Penniman, , Dea., 88. 

Perkins, Jacob, 149. 
Peter, Hugh, Rev., 19, 91. 
Philadelphia (Pa.), 57. 
Phillips, Catherine, xiv. 

Pickering, , Dea., 88. 

Pickman, Benjamin, Col., 94. 
Piemont, John, 94, 95. 
Pike, Nicholas, 103, 104. 

Robert, Maj., 46, 51, 52. 
Piscataqua river, 7. 

Plaistead, , Col., 72. 

Plaistow (N. H.), 81. 
Plummer, D., 132. 
Plymouth, 7. 11, 24. 
Porter, Elijah, 107, 109. 

Samuel, 89, 90. 
Portsmouth (N. H.), 70, 81, 97, 183, 
184. 

Poutrincourt, , de, 4. 

Pratt, , Wid., 74. 

Putnam, — — , Judge, 94. 



Pynchon, William, 90, 95. 

Quincy, Josiah, 94. 

Rashley, Thomas, Rev., 19. 
Razolini, Onorio, 64. 
Read, , 76. 

John, 89. 
Reading, 135. 
Reed, Nathan, 151. 

Ried, , 65. 

Ring, Joseph, 46. 
Robinson, , 85. 

Samuel, 165. 

William, xiv. 
Rochefoucalt-Liancourt, Duke de la, 

172. 
Rogers, , 134. 

Charles, 129. 

Daniel, 119, 120, 132, 161. 

Ezekiel, Rev., 19, 23. 

John, Rev., 68, 70, 71, 94. 

Nathaniel, Rev., xvi, 19. 
Rolfe, Benjamin, Rev., 53. 
Ropes, Nathaniel, Judge, 94, 95. 
Rowe, John, 160. 
Rowley, 23, 27, 30, 42, 122. 
Royall, Isaac, 76. 
Rumney, Marsh, 15, 29. 

St. Clair, Arthur, Gen., xv. 

Salem, x, xi, xii, xiii, xiv, xv, 6, 9, 10, 
12, 13, 16, 19, 27, 29, 30, 31, 33, 34, 
36, 38, 45, 46, 47, 53, 54, 56, 59, 60, 
61, 63, 66, 68, 70, 71, 72, 73, 74, 75, 
78, 79, 84, 85, 86, 87, 88, 90, 92, 94, 
95, 96, 99, 108, 120, 150, 164, 167, 
178, 182. 

Salisbury, 24, 26, 30, 46, 47, 49, 50, 51, 
58, 61, 102, 111. 

Saltonstall, Nathaniel, 109. 
Richard, Col, 88, 90. 

Sands, Daniel, xv. 

Sandwich, 14. 

Sargent, Nathaniel Peaslee, 89, 90. 

Saugus, 13, 14, 16, 28, 32. 

Scollay, ■ , Mrs., 94. 

Sewall, , 88, 90. 

Samuel, Judge, viii. 
Stephen, Judge, 94. 
Stephen, Maj., 33, 35, 36, 66, 68, 70. 

Shepherd, , Rev., 57. 

Shoals, Isle of, 1, 7, 21, 40. 

Simonds, Henry, 19. 

Smith, Hezekiah, Rev., xvi, 109. 



INDEX. 



189 



Smith. Isaac, Rev., 122. 

John, Capt., 6. 
Speed, John, ix. 

Spring, Samuel, Rev., 97, 98, 116. 
Stanton, Daniel, xv. 
Stevens, Bimsley, 114. 
Stevenson, Marmaduke, xiv. 
Stewart, William, 39, 40, 41, 42, 43, 44. 
Story, , xvi. 

Thomas, 46. 53. 

Strong, , Rev., 103. 

Swampscott, 19, 162. 

Swett, John B., Dr., 104, 112, 133, 148. 

Joseph, 63. 
Symmes, William, Rev., 106. 

Talbot, , 37, 58. 

Talleyrand, Count de, 82. 

Tewksbury, 135. 

Thacher, Oxenbridge, 89, 90. 

Thatcher, J. Rev., 91. 

Thatcher's Island, 2. 

Toppan, Christopher, Rev., xiv. 

Topsfield, 107, 109, 113, 115, 138. 140, 

152. 
Townsend, Nancy, 107. 
Tracey, J., 134. 

John, 116. 

Nathaniel, 104. 

Patrick, 104. 
Tracy, , 165. 

, Capt., 94. 

John, 81, 82, 83. 
Treadwell, Jacob, 90, 93, 95. 
Tucker, Benjamin, 5. 

John, Dr., 105. 
Tufts, Simon, Dr., 87, 90. 
Turks' head islands, 6. 



Uring, Nathaniel, Capt., xi. 

Vanderbank, — ^, 67. 
Vaudreiul, Vicomte de, 81. 

Wansey, Henry, xii. 
Ward, , 73, 76. 

Edward, 45. 

Nathaniel, Rev., 19, 21, 25. 
Warner, William, xii. 
Warville, Jean Pierre Brissot de, 164. 
Washington, George, 167. 
Waters, Henry F., 26. 
Webster, Noah, viii. 
Wendell, Jacob, Capt., 73, 76. 
Wenham, xvi, 23, 27, 29, 38, 91, 115, 
122, 162. 

Wentworth, , 81. 

Wetmore, William, 95, 97, 98. 

White, John, xvi. 

White Mountains, 98. 

Whitefield, George, Rev., 66, 71, 133. 

Whiting, , Rev., 19. 

Wigglesworth, Edward, Col., 82. 

Wilkins, , Mrs., 37. 

Willard, Joseph, Rev., 96. 
Williams, , 94. 

Roger, 31. 
Wilmington, 135. 
Winnesimet, 14, 28, 32. 

Winthrop, , Judge, 94. 

Woburn, 20, 87. 
Wood, William, 14. 

Woodberry, , 66. 

Woodbridge, , 91. 

Worcester, Thomas, Rev., 2d. 
Worcester, 89. 

York (Me.), 91. 




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